Tag: Mojave

The Mojave Desert, located in the southwestern United States, is a striking landscape characterized by vast expanses of arid terrain and rugged mountains. Spanning parts of California, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona, it is known for its iconic Joshua trees, which dot the sandy plains alongside hardy shrubs and cacti adapted to the harsh desert environment. The Mojave Desert experiences extreme temperatures, with scorching hot summers and chilly winters, while its unique geological features include ancient lava flows, dry lake beds, and towering sand dunes. This desert region is not only a testament to resilience in nature but also harbors a rich diversity of wildlife and holds a cultural significance as a home to indigenous peoples and a backdrop for explorers and adventurers alike.

Atolia California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

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Atolia, California, is a ghost town in the Mojave Desert near Randsburg in northwestern San Bernardino County. Once a bustling tungsten mining hub, Atolia’s history is tied to the discovery of tungsten and its critical role in global industrial demands, particularly during World War I.

Atolia and mine in the Mojave Desert, circa 1908 postcard.
Atolia and mine in the Mojave Desert, circa 1908 postcard.

Origins and Discovery (1904–1906)

Atolia’s story began in 1904–1905 when prospectors Charles Taylor and Tom McCarthy discovered veins of scheelite, a tungsten ore, east of the Randsburg gold mine. Initially, miners in the nearby Randsburg and Johannesburg areas struggled with a creamy white substance called “heavy spar” in their placer gold operations, which was later identified as scheelite, a calcium tungstate mineral (CaWO4). In 1905, McCarthy found a 40-pound chunk of tungsten ore, sparking interest in the region’s tungsten potential. The Atolia Mining Company was established in 1906, funded partly by financier Bernard Baruch and operated by the Atkins-Kroll Company. The town’s name, Atolia, is a contraction of the surnames of two key figures, Atkins and DeGolia, who also oversaw the construction of a tungsten mill in 1907.

Boom Years and World War I (1906–1918)

Atolia’s growth accelerated during World War I (1914–1918) due to surging global demand for tungsten, a critical component in hardening steel alloys for armaments. The town became the world’s largest tungsten producer, with the Papoose Mine leading global scheelite production from 1908 to 1911. Ore grades in the Atolia Mining District ranged from 3.5wt% to 8.5wt% WO3, with some veins, such as those in the Papoose and Mahood mines, reaching up to 15.3wt% WO3. The value of tungsten ore skyrocketed from $6 for 30 pounds to over $1 per pound, fueling economic activity.

By 1916, Atolia’s population swelled to over 2,000. The town boasted a vibrant community with four restaurants, three general stores, three rooming houses, four pool rooms, two stationery stores, an ice cream parlor, a garage, three butcher shops, a dairy, a movie theater, a schoolhouse for 60 pupils, and a saloon named the “Bucket of Blood.” The Atolia News, a weekly newspaper edited by Erwin Lehmann, began publication in May 1916. The Randsburg Railway connected Atolia to nearby towns, facilitating the transport of goods and people.

A notable event during this period was the 1916 shipment of tungsten ore to Germany via the German cargo submarine Deutschland. With English naval blockades cutting off Germany’s tungsten supply, Atolia’s ore was transported under guard from the town’s depot to Barstow, then to Baltimore via the Santa Fe’s California Limited, and loaded onto the Deutschland for delivery. This operation underscored Atolia’s global significance during the war. However, the town also faced challenges, including illegal activities. In an undated raid, San Bernardino County Sheriff McMinn targeted Atolia’s gambling dens, confiscating a faro wheel and significant quantities of alcohol, aiming to curb its reputation as a “frontier town of ’49.”

Decline and Post-War Period (1919–1922)

The end of World War I in 1918 led to a collapse in tungsten prices, severely impacting Atolia’s economy. The Atolia Mining Company shipped no tungsten ore from 1920 to 1922, and the town’s post office closed in 1922. Many residents left, and businesses shuttered, leaving Atolia a shadow of its former self. The nearby California Rand Silver Mine, which saw a silver boom in 1919 with production exceeding $3 million in 1921, temporarily overshadowed Atolia’s tungsten operations.

Revival and Later Years (1923–1940s)

Tungsten mining resumed in the 1920s, with the Union Mine, the district’s chief producer, reopening in 1924. Production increased significantly, reaching nearly $250,000 in 1925 and surpassing that in 1926 and 1927. Between 1923 and 1939, the Atolia Mining Company sold over $3 million worth of ore, demonstrating the town’s resilience. During World War II, Atolia’s mines were reactivated, but open-pit methods and heavy machinery replaced thelabor-intensive underground mining of earlier years. Mining continued sporadically into the 1940s and possibly as late as 2007, though the town itself remained largely abandoned.

Geological Context

Atolia’s tungsten deposits are associated with hydrothermal vein systems in the Atolia quartz monzonite, an Upper Jurassic orthoclase-biotite tonalite. The mineral assemblage includes high-grade scheelite with quartz, carbonates (calcite, dolomite, siderite), and minor pyrite, stibnite, and cinnabar. The deposits were influenced by the Garlock Fault and subparallel fracture zones, part of the San Andreas rift system, which facilitated the intrusion of Mesozoic granites and the formation of lode deposits. Scheelite’s weathering resistance, similar to quartz, also led to placer tungsten deposits in the region. From 1904 to 1950, Atolia produced nearly 90% of North America’s high-grade tungsten, totaling over 20 million pounds.

Legacy and Current State

Today, Atolia is a ghost town with remnants of its mining past, including open shafts, a few headframes, and a ball mill, located just off Highway 395. The Union #1 Mine’s headframe, a 100-foot-tall structure built in 1916, was a notable landmark until it collapsed and burned in a fire on October 27, 2014, alongside a pickup truck found in the debris. The site is marked by private property signs, and visitors are cautioned about open mine shafts. Atolia’s story reflects the boom-and-bust cycle typical of mining towns, driven by global demand for a critical resource. Its historical significance is preserved through photographs and records at the Rand Desert Museum and geological studies of the Atolia Mining District.

Conclusion

Atolia, California, rose from obscurity to global prominence as a tungsten mining hub, driven by the demands of World War I. Its brief but vibrant history, marked by economic booms, international intrigue, and eventual decline, encapsulates the transient nature of resource-driven communities in the Mojave Desert. Though now a ghost town, Atolia’s legacy endures in its contribution to North America’s tungsten production and its place in California’s mining history.

Atolia Town Map

Town Summary

NameAtolia California
LocationMojave Desert, San Bernardino County, California
Latitude, Longitude35.3147387,-117.6170878
GNIS1660280
Elevation3,280 Feet
Population2,000
Post Office1906 – 1922, 1927 – 1944

References

Goldome Mill

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The heavily vandalized Goldome Mill outside of Ivanpah, California. Photo by James L Rathbun
The heavily vandalized Goldome Mill outside of Ivanpah, California. Photo by James L Rathbun

The Goldome Mill is an abandoned modern mill site in the New York mountains of San Bernardino, California just off of the Ivanpah Road. The site was abandoned in the 1998 following the formation of the Mojave National Preserve by the California Desert Protection Act in 1994 and has slowly fallen into a state of decay. The mill site is currently classified as a Superfund Site by the Environmental Protection Agency which means that the site is known to contain hazardous waste which is improperly contained.

Photo by James L Rathbun
Photo by James L Rathbun

The mill was named Goldome, meaning “an abnormal growth of gold” out of an optimism as to the fortunes of those who invested in this venture. The construction of the site is very modern and industrial in appearance. All of the buildings are of metal construction and probably built during the late 1970s or early 1980s. All of the milling equipment, such as the trommel and sluice boxes appear to silently rest in state. This site was likely the mill site of choice for near by mines of its era, such as the Morning Start Mine

Establishment and Operations

The Goldome Mill was constructed in the late 1970s or early 1980s, during a period of renewed interest in gold mining driven by economic factors and technological advancements. The mill’s modern, industrial design featured metal buildings, a stark contrast to the wooden stamp mills of earlier eras, such as the Lost Horse Gold Mill in Twentynine Palms. The facility was equipped with advanced processing equipment, including an ore dump and grizzly, a long conveyor to a giant ball mill, froth flotation cells, filters, and large cyanidation tanks for gold extraction. A control panel with a mimic board in the mill office allowed operators to oversee the entire operation.

The milling process began with ore being fed into the grizzly, transported via conveyor to the ball mill for grinding, and then processed through froth flotation to separate gold-bearing minerals. The resulting slurry was treated in cyanidation tanks, where cyanide leached gold from the ore, a common method in modern gold mining despite its environmental risks. The mill’s capacity was significant, making it one of the largest and most advanced milling operations in the region, capable of processing large volumes of ore. However, specific production figures for the Goldome Mill are not well-documented, likely due to its short operational period.

The mill was operated by a company, likely a corporate entity such as those common in San Bernardino County’s mining landscape (e.g., Castle Mountain Venture or PAN American Minerals Inc.), though exact ownership details are scarce. The name “Goldome,” meaning “an abnormal growth of gold,” reflected the optimism of investors hoping to capitalize on the region’s mineral wealth. The mill processed ore from nearby gold claims in the New York Mountains, an area with a history of small-scale prospecting but limited large-scale success.

Environmental and Regulatory Challenges

The Goldome Mill’s operations were curtailed by environmental and regulatory factors. The establishment of the Mojave National Preserve in 1994 restricted mining activities, as new claims were prohibited, and existing operations faced increased scrutiny. By 1998, the mill was abandoned, likely due to a combination of declining ore quality, rising operational costs, and regulatory pressures. The site’s designation as a Superfund Site by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) indicates that it contains hazardous waste, likely from cyanide used in gold extraction, which was improperly contained. The presence of half-full cyanidation tanks and other hazardous materials has made the site a concern for environmental cleanup efforts.

The harsh Mojave Desert environment has also contributed to the site’s deterioration. While the metal structures remain intact, the mill has been heavily vandalized and looted, with graffiti and scattered debris marking the site. Explorers have noted hazards such as a large beehive in the main building, which has deterred some from fully investigating the interior. Despite these challenges, the mill’s open layout and intact equipment make it a compelling site for historians and urban explorers.

Decline and Abandonment

The Goldome Mill ceased operations by 1998, a mere two decades after its construction, reflecting the transient nature of modern mining ventures in the region. Several factors contributed to its closure. First, the quality of gold ore in the New York Mountains may have been insufficient to sustain large-scale milling, as many San Bernardino County mines struggled with low-grade deposits. Second, the economic viability of the operation was likely undermined by fluctuating gold prices and high maintenance costs for the sophisticated equipment. Finally, the creation of the Mojave National Preserve imposed strict regulations, limiting access to new claims and increasing environmental compliance costs.

After abandonment, the mill fell into disrepair, with its tunnels sealed but the milling operation left accessible. The site’s isolation and lack of fencing have made it vulnerable to vandalism, yet its robust construction has preserved much of the infrastructure, including the ball mill, flotation cells, and cyanidation tanks. The absence of gates or fences along the access road has allowed explorers to visit, though the EPA’s Superfund designation underscores the need for caution due to hazardous materials.

Graffitti on a wash plant at the Goldome Mill. Photo by James L Rathbun
Graffitti on a wash plant at the Goldome Mill. Photo by James L Rathbun

In 2017, political vandals posing as “street artists” decided on their own to deface the site as part of their environmental message and forever changed the face of this site. The mill at Goldmine is heavily vandalized and at the time of our visit during the riots following the murder of George Floyd gave the site an uneasy felling. It is not too far a reach to understand that they vandals who defaced this site could be burning our cities down.

At the Goldome Mill, the work of vandals is undone by the harsh Mojave Desert. Photo by James L Rathbun
At the Goldome Mill, the work of vandals is undone by the harsh Mojave Desert. Photo by James L Rathbun

During our visit to the site, a large swam of bees built a hive in the main building. This prevented me from entering and exploring further, however, I will return to do so, at some point.

Goldome Mill Map

Recently, I discovered that a youtube channel called Jessie’s Drone Adventures referenced our site in the video 10 ABANDONED Places in California….You should NEVER Explore! in Jessie video, Golddoom is referenced as number four on this list.

Additional Reading

Borate and Daggett Railroad

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More details Borate & Daggett Rail Road in Mule Canyon on way to Borate – Courtesy National Park Service, Death Valley National Park
More details Borate & Daggett Rail Road in Mule Canyon on way to Borate – Courtesy National Park Service, Death Valley National Park

The Borate and Daggett Railroad, a 3-foot narrow-gauge railway operational from 1898 to 1907 in California’s Mojave Desert, was a critical infrastructure project for the borax industry. Stretching 11 miles from Daggett to the Borate mining camp, it replaced inefficient mule teams, significantly reducing transportation costs for colemanite borax. Built by the Pacific Coast Borax Company under Francis Marion Smith, the railroad featured innovative engineering, including Heisler locomotives and a roasting mill for on-site ore processing. Despite its success, declining ore quality and the discovery of richer deposits elsewhere led to its abandonment in 1907.

Background

Francis Marion "Borax" Smith
Francis Marion “Borax” Smith

The borax industry gained prominence in the late 19th century due to the mineral’s applications in detergents, glass, and metallurgy. In 1883, colemanite deposits were discovered in the Calico Mountains, acquired by William Tell Coleman, who relied on twenty-mule teams to transport borax to railheads. After Coleman’s bankruptcy in 1890, Francis Marion Smith, the “Borax King,” took over, forming the Pacific Coast Borax Company. By 1899, the renamed Borate mine was the world’s largest, producing 22,000 short tons annually. The high cost and slow pace of mule teams necessitated a more efficient transport solution, leading to the railroad’s construction.

Construction and Design

Completed in 1898, the Borate and Daggett Railroad was a 3-foot narrow-gauge line designed to navigate the Calico Mountains’ 7% grades. The 11-mile route connected the Borate mine to Daggett, a Santa Fe mainline hub. Two Heisler steam locomotives, “Marion” and “Francis,” powered the line, leveraging geared drive systems for steep terrain. A roasting mill at the midpoint, named Marion, processed ore into burlap bags, and a third rail facilitated transfers to standard-gauge boxcars. The narrow gauge design and Heisler technology minimized costs while ensuring reliability in the harsh desert environment.

Operations and Economic Contributions

Borate & Daggett Heisler locomotive #2 "Francis" (s/n 1026), at Daggett, California in 1910. The locomotive helped to construct the Death Valley Railroad in 1913, before being sold to the Nevada Short Line Railway in 1916 where it retained its number #2.[4] It ended its days working for the Terry Lumber Company (later Red River) at Round Mountain, California until about 1925.
Borate & Daggett Heisler locomotive #2 “Francis” (s/n 1026), at Daggett, California in 1910. The locomotive helped to construct the Death Valley Railroad in 1913, before being sold to the Nevada Short Line Railway in 1916 where it retained its number #2. It ended its days working for the Terry Lumber Company (later Red River) at Round Mountain, California until about 1925.

From 1898 to 1904, the railroad was integral to the Pacific Coast Borax Company’s operations, transporting large colemanite volumes at lower costs than mule teams. The Marion mill enhanced efficiency by processing ore on-site. The railroad bolstered
Daggett’s role as a regional hub, supporting jobs and infrastructure. However, narrow gauge limitations, such as small train capacities, occasionally constrained output. At its peak, the railroad underpinned Borate’s status as the world’s leading borax mine, driving economic growth in the Mojave Desert.

Decline and Abandonment

More details Borate & Daggett Heisler locomotive #1 "Marion" (s/n 1018), at Daggett, California in 1910. It went on to work for the Forest Lumber Company in Oregon until the lumber mill at Pine Ridge burned to the ground in 1939.
More details Borate & Daggett Heisler locomotive #1 “Marion” (s/n 1018), at Daggett, California in 1910. It went on to work for the Forest Lumber Company in Oregon until the lumber mill at Pine Ridge burned to the ground in 1939.

By 1904, Borate’s colemanite quality declined, prompting Smith to focus on richer deposits at the Lila C. Mine in Death Valley. The Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad, completed in 1907, served the new mine, rendering the Borate and Daggett Railroad
obsolete. Mining at Borate ceased in 1907, and the railroad was abandoned. Rails were scrapped, and equipment was left in Daggett or repurposed for the Death Valley Railroad. The Heisler locomotives were later sold to the Forest Lumber Company in Oregon until they closed in 1939.

Legacy

The Borate and Daggett Railroad demonstrated the efficacy of narrow-gauge systems for mineral transport, influencing projects like the Death Valley Railroad. Its equipment reuse and documented history, including photographs and railbeds, preserve its legacy . The railroad exemplifies the interplay of technology and economics in the borax industry, highlighting the transient nature of resource-driven infrastructure in the American West.

Borate and Daggett Railroad Summary

NameBorate and Daggett Railroad
LocationMojave Desert, San Bernardino, California
Length11 miles
GageNarrow Gauge – 3 feet (914 mm)
Operational

Borate and Daggett Railroad Map

Vanderbilt California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

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A metal headframe marks a vertical shaft in the mining district outside of Vanderbilt California.
A metal headframe marks a vertical shaft in the mining district outside of Vanderbilt California.

Vanderbilt, California, was a fleeting but vibrant gold mining town located in the New York Mountains near the California-Nevada border, approximately 40 miles north of Goffs, California, within what is now the Mojave National Preserve. Existing primarily between 1891 and 1895, Vanderbilt epitomized the boom-and-bust cycle typical of late 19th-century Western mining settlements. Named optimistically after the wealthy Vanderbilt family in hopes of mirroring their fortune, the town’s history reflects the rapid excitement and subsequent abandonment that characterized many gold rush communities.

Old Plumbing remains in the town of Vanderbilt, CA
Old Plumbing remains in the town of Vanderbilt, CA

Discovery and Founding (1891–1892)

The story of Vanderbilt begins in January 1891, when a Native American prospector named Robert Black discovered gold ore on the north slope of the New York Mountains. This initial strike sparked interest, and a small mining camp soon formed near Vanderbilt Spring, a vital water source in the arid region. The camp remained modest until the fall of 1892, when additional gold-rich veins were uncovered, triggering a rush to the area. By January 1893, the settlement had grown to approximately 150 residents, living in a makeshift community of 50 tents, supported by two stores, a saloon, three restaurants, a lodging house, a blacksmith shop, and a stable.

The town’s name, “Vanderbilt,” was chosen to evoke the prosperity of the prominent American industrialist family, signaling the miners’ ambitions for wealth. The discovery of gold in the Gold Bronze, Sagamore, and Boomerang mines fueled optimism, drawing prospectors, merchants, and adventurers to the remote desert location.

Vanderbilt Business District
Vanderbilt Business District

Peak Prosperity (1893–1894)

Virgil Earp 1843 -1905
Virgil Earp 1843 -1905

Vanderbilt reached its zenith in 1894, with a population estimated at around 400 residents. During this period, the town developed into a bustling hub with a well-defined business district. Historical accounts describe a lively community featuring three saloons, two barbers, a Chinese restaurant, two additional eating houses, two meat markets, a stationery and fruit store, one lodging house, two blacksmiths, and three general stores. William McFarlane, a pioneer from nearby Ivanpah, operated one of these stores, which also housed the post office and a drugstore.

A notable figure associated with Vanderbilt was Virgil Earp, the older brother of Wyatt Earp and a survivor of the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. According to Earp family historians, Virgil owned the town’s only two-story building, a combination hotel and saloon. His wife, Allie Earp, later recalled that the structure also hosted church services and dances, suggesting a semblance of community life amid the rough mining environment.

In 1894, two ten-stamp mills were constructed to process ore from the Gold Bronze and Boomerang mines, marking the height of Vanderbilt’s industrial activity. These mills were essential for crushing ore and extracting gold, and their completion signaled the town’s economic peak. However, this prosperity was short-lived, as geological challenges soon emerged.

Decline and Abandonment (1895–Late 1890s)

Vanderbilt’s downfall began almost as quickly as its rise. Around the same time the mills were completed in 1894, miners struck water in the shafts of the principal mines. Flooding rendered the underground operations unworkable, halting gold extraction and undermining the town’s economic foundation. Without a sustainable source of wealth, residents began to abandon Vanderbilt, seeking opportunities elsewhere.

By 1895, the population had dwindled significantly, and the once-thriving town faded into obscurity. The exact date of its complete abandonment is unclear, but by the late 1890s, Vanderbilt had become a ghost town. Its brief existence left little behind beyond scattered mining relics, such as a metal headframe marking a vertical shaft, and remnants of old plumbing, which hint at its former activity.

A horizontal mine shaft in Vanderbilt
A horizontal mine shaft in Vanderbilt

Legacy and Modern Context

Today, Vanderbilt lies within the Mojave National Preserve, a protected area that preserves the region’s natural and historical features. The town’s coordinates are approximately 35°19’38.20″N, 115°14’59.14″W, near the modern gambling hub of Primm, Nevada. While no standing structures remain, the site serves as a testament to the transient nature of mining boomtowns in the American West.

Exploring the ghost town of Vanderbilt, CA
Exploring the ghost town of Vanderbilt, CA

Vanderbilt’s history reflects broader themes of the late 19th-century gold rush: speculative ambition, rapid growth fueled by mineral wealth, and abrupt collapse due to environmental and economic realities. Though short-lived, the town contributed to the lore of the Wild West, with its connection to figures like Virgil Earp adding a layer of historical intrigue.

Vanderbilt, California, encapsulates the ephemeral nature of mining settlements in the American frontier. From its founding in 1891 to its peak in 1894 and its decline by 1895, the town’s trajectory mirrors countless others that rose and fell with the fortunes of the earth. Though little remains of Vanderbilt today, its story endures as a snapshot of a bygone era, preserved in historical records and the stark desert landscape it once briefly animated.

Town Summary

Town NameVanderbilt
LocationSan Bernardino County, California
Latitude, Longitude35.327222, -115.249722
Population500
Elevation4350 Feet
NewspaperThe Shaft
Post OfficeFebruary 1893 – 1910

Vanderbilt Trail Map

Further Reading

Darwin California – Inyo County Ghost Town

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Darwin is a unincorporated community, gold mining town and ghost town located in Inyo County, California about 22 miles from Keeler. The town was named for Darwin French, who lead a party of prospectors into Death Valley in 1860 looking for the mythical gunsight lode. This prospecting eventually lead to the wash, canyon and town named in his honor.

The site which became Darwin was formed in 1874 following a discovery of lead and silver. The overall grwoth of the town was limited by its water supply which is piped from over eight miles away. This discovery coincided with near by Panamint, although the rush to Darwin was more muted. Darwin has a population of about 700 at this time.

The Coso Mining News published weekly from 1875 – 1878 by T.S. Harris. The newspaper closed in September 1878 and the publisher moved up north to Bodie. The moved of the newspaper is symptomatic and followed by many others including miners seeker greener pastures. The town of Darwin had a remaining population of about 250 people. Despite the plunging population the town still supported six saloons, four stores, three restaurants and a drug store. Between the years of 1874 and 1877 newspapers reported at least 80 murders.

Darwin is a rarity and survived its original boom. The town remained viable until World Was I, when larger mining operations could profit of lower yielding ores. A post office opened in 1875 and closed in 1902. Eventually, the post office reopened and remains open today.

The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906. | Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.
The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906. | Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.

Darwin Today

In 2011, a documentary called Darwin is available on Amazon Prime. The documentary is described, “Propelled from society by tragic turns, the isolated community of Darwin, Death Valley (population 35) must now find ways to coexist in a place without a government, a church, jobs, or children.” I did watch the documentary and found it interesting. However, its focus was on the people living there now and not much on the history.

Recently, Brent Underwood, owner of Cerro Gordo featured Darwin on his youtube channel. He was scrounging old boards from buildings in Darwin to help rebuild Cerro Gordo. I am not sure how I feel about damaging one old town to rebuild another…

Darwin Town Summary

NameDarwin, California
LocationInyo County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.268056 -117.591667
Elvation4,790 ft ( 1460 m )
GNIS241269
Population3500
Post OfficeOpen
NewspaperCoso Mining News ( Nov. 6, 1875 – Sept. 4, 1878 )

Darwin Town Map

Resources