Racetrack Valley

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc…  Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.

Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.
Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.

The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…

Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.

As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.

Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.

The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.
The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.

As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.

The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.

Jeeps and Labradors are not allowed on the playa!

To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.

The Racing stones.
The Racing stones.

At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.

Every racetrack needs a grandstand.
Every racetrack needs a grandstand.

Notoriety

On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.

Racetrack Valley Trail Map

References

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood
Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood

The siren song of Cerro Gordo, a desolate ghost town perched high above Death Valley, has seduced thousands since the 1800s, but few fell harder for it than Brent Underwood, who moved there in March of 2020, only to be immediately snowed in and trapped for weeks.

It had once been the largest silver mine in California. Over $500 million worth of ore was pulled from the miles of tunnels below the town. Butch Cassidy, Mark Twain, and other infamous characters of the American West were rumored to have stayed there. Newspapers reported a murder a week. But that was over 150 years ago.

Underwood bet his life savings—and his life—on this majestic, hardscrabble town that had broken its fair share of ambitious men and women. What followed were fires, floods, earthquakes, and perhaps strangest, fame. Ghost Town Living tells the story of a man against the elements, a forgotten historic place against the modern world, and a dream against all odds—one that has captured millions of followers around the world.

He came looking for a challenge different from the traditional 9-5 job but discovered something much more fulfilling—an undertaking that would call on all of himself and push him beyond what he knew he was capable of. In fact, to bring this abandoned town back to life, Brent had to learn a wealth of new self-sufficiency and problem-solving skills from many generous mentors.

Ghost Town Living is a thrilling read, but it’s also a call to action—to question our too-practical lives and instead seek adventure, build something original, redefine work, and embrace the unknown. It shows what it means to dedicate your life to something, to take a mighty swing at a crazy idea and, like the cardsharps who once haunted Cerro Gordo, go all in.

About the Author

Brent Underwood is the owner of Cerro Gordo, an original boomtown silver mine, established in 1865. He is also the creator of “GhostTownLiving” where he chronicles his adventures on YouTube. Brent currently lives on the mountain above Death Valley with no running water, seven cats, six goats, and at least one ghost.

Book Summary

TitleDeath Valley Gold Rush (Images of Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley
AuthorBrent Underwood
PublisherHarmony Publishing
Pages228 Pages

Death Valley Railroad


The Death Valley Railroad (DVRR) was a historic 3 ft (914 mm) narrow-gauge railroad that once operated in Death Valley. Built primarily to support mining operations in the remote and harsh terrains of the Death Valley region, it played a crucial role in the economic development of the area during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The line started in Death Valley Junction, CA and followed the modern California State Route 190 down the the mining camp of Ryan.

Locomotive No 1 Engine, Death Valley Railroad
Locomotive No 1 Engine, Death Valley Railroad

Early Days and Construction

The idea of constructing a railroad in the inhospitable terrain of Death Valley emerged during the late 19th century with the discovery of various valuable mineral deposits. Initially, the isolated mining communities were heavily dependent on mule teams and wagons for transportation, which was both slow and inefficient.

In 1904, the Pacific Coast Borax Company, recognizing the need for a more efficient transportation system, began the construction of the Death Valley Railroad. The railway was intended to connect the mining towns of Ryan, near Death Valley, to the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad, which served the wider region.

A map of the Death Valley Railroad running from Death Valley Junction all the way up to the mines at Ryan near Colemanite
A map of the Death Valley Railroad running from Death Valley Junction all the way up to the mines at Ryan near Colemanite

Development and Operations

The construction of the railroad faced immense challenges due to the rugged landscape, extreme weather conditions, and the scarcity of resources in the area. The laborers encountered difficulties such as intense heat, lack of water, and treacherous terrain, but despite these challenges, the construction continued.

By 1914, the DVRR was fully operational, enabling the efficient transportation of borax, gold, silver, and other minerals from the mines to the broader market. The railroad significantly reduced transportation costs and facilitated the growth of mining operations in the area.

DVRR self propelled gasoline powered Brill Car
DVRR self propelled gasoline powered Brill Car

One train ran each day delivering food and water to the workers at the Ryan mine in the mourning. The same train bought ore back late in the afternoon. After better deposits of borax were discovered at Boron, the Death Valley Railroad tried to resort to tourist operations by bringing in a Brill railcar to transport tourists to the old mines which made up Furnace Creek. A Brill car is a self propelled gasoline rail vehicle.

California State Route 190 roughly follows the route of this railroad.

Decline and Closure

Eventually, with the Great Depression of the 1930s and the increased usage of automobiles and trucks for transportation. The narrow gage D V R R ceased its operations in 1931. The tracks were removed, and much of the equipment was sold off or abandoned, marking the end of an era for the railroad and the mining communities it had served.

Although the Death Valley Railroad’s existence was relatively short-lived, it played a pivotal role in the development of the Death Valley region, contributing significantly to the growth of the mining industry and the economic prosperity of the local communities during its operation. Today, remnants of the railroad’s route can still be found in the Death Valley National Park, serving as a testament to its historical significance and the challenges faced by early industrial pioneers in this unforgiving landscape.

Death Valley Railroad Summary

NameDeath Valley Railroad
LocationNye County, Nevada
Death Valley, California
GageNarrow Gage, 3 ft (914mm)
Length25 Miles
Years of Operation1914 – 1931

Death Valley Railroad Locomotives

LocomotiveManufacturerService
Heisler #2 “Francis”2-TruckStearns Manufacturing Locomotive Works1899 – 1925
Baldwin DVRR No 12-8-0Baldwin Locomotive Works
Baldwin DVRR No 22-8-0Baldwin Locomotive Works1916 –

References

Ghost Towns of Death Valley (Images of America) 

Ghost Towns of Death Valley (Images of America) - Author: Robert P. Palazzo
Ghost Towns of Death Valley (Images of America) – Author: Robert P. Palazzo

Although the Death Valley area is sparsely populated, it once was home to a good many towns, some of which not only have disappeared from the desert but also from history. Even though the name “Death Valley” itself evokes dark and foreboding images devoid of life, there was a surprising number of towns that did exist in or near the 3.4 million acres that comprise Death Valley National Park. Many had the amenities of larger cities, and some thrived before being deserted and melting back into the desert. The visual record of many of these towns and their occupants is featured in this book.

About the Author

Robert P. Palazzo, Death Valley scholar and lifetime member of the area’s natural history association, evokes here in vintage imagery a stark, barren, desolate wasteland that gradually became one of the West’s most iconic destinations. Tapping his extensive private collection of rare photographs, Palazzo shows Death Valley’s geological features, notable personalities, industries, mysteries, and tourism. Though the area has changed little over the last 150 years, the harsh conditions have erased much of the evidence of human occupation. That rare visual record is preserved in these pages.

Book Summary

TitleRobert P. Palazzo
AuthorRobert P. Palazzo
PublisherArcadia Publishing
Pages128 Pages

Edward Lawrence Schieffelin

Edward Lawrence Schieffelin, a rugged and determined prospector, carved his name in the annals of American history as the man who discovered silver and founded the legendary mining town of Tombstone, Arizona. Born on May 7, 1847, in the small town of Wellsboro, Pennsylvania, Schieffelin embodied the spirit of adventure and exploration that characterized the American West during the late 19th century. From his humble beginnings as a prospector to his eventual success in striking it rich, this biography delves into the life and achievements of Ed Schieffelin, shedding light on his extraordinary journey and his enduring legacy in the American mining industry.

Edward Lawrence Schieffelin
Ed Schieffelin

Early Years and Adventurous Spirit

Edward Lawrence Schieffelin, known as Ed, was born into a family of eight siblings. Raised in a modest household, he developed a strong work ethic and a sense of wanderlust from an early age. Ed’s adventurous spirit led him to leave his hometown in pursuit of opportunities out West when he was just a teenager. Inspired by stories of the California Gold Rush, Schieffelin set out on a quest for fortune and adventure into California, Death Valley, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona.

In 1877, at the age of 30, Schieffelin arrived in Arizona Territory. The region was known for its hostile terrain, inhabited by hostile Native American tribes and infested with outlaws. It was an untamed and dangerous land, yet Schieffelin saw the untapped potential hidden within the rocky mountains and rugged landscapes.

The Discovery of Tombstone

Undeterred by the challenges, Schieffelin embarked on a solo prospecting expedition in the southeastern part of Arizona Territory. Despite being warned by soldiers at the nearby Fort Huachuca about the “all he would find would be his own tombstone,” Schieffelin remained undeterred and ventured into the wilderness.

After several months of searching and enduring hardships, Schieffelin struck silver in 1877. His find, located in the area that would become Tombstone, Arizona, ignited a rush of prospectors and speculators. Schieffelin named the mining district “Tombstone” in response to a friend,  Al Sieber who predicted he would only find his own tombstone.

As the news of Schieffelin’s discovery spread, the town of Tombstone boomed with activity. Miners, gamblers, and businessmen flocked to the area, transforming the once desolate region into a thriving mining town. Schieffelin, known for his eccentric personality and adventurous spirit, became a legend in his own right.

The Legacy of Tombstone

Tombstone, under Schieffelin’s influence, rapidly grew into a bustling frontier town. The rich silver veins of the area attracted numerous mining companies, turning Tombstone into one of the wealthiest towns in the West. The town quickly developed essential infrastructure, including saloons, theaters, banks, and a newspaper, the “Tombstone Epitaph,” which chronicled the tumultuous events that unfolded in the region.

Schieffelin, though he had made his fortune, continued to lead the life of a prospector, always searching for the next big strike. However, he faced his fair share of challenges and setbacks. The mines faced legal disputes, water shortages, and labor conflicts, which took a toll on the town’s prosperity. Despite the challenges, Tombstone remained a symbol of the American frontier spirit and resilience.

Ed Schieffelin Monument

A 25 ft tall monument is erected near to spot of Ed Shieffelin original claim in Tombstone. The monument represents the type of marker a miner makes in claiming a strike. A plaque on the monument reads, “Ed Shieffelin, died May 12, 1897, aged 49 years, 8 months. A dutiful son, a faithful husband, a kind brother, and a true friend.” The monument is located just to the East of Ed Schieffelin Monument road, north of the town of Tombstone.