Darwin California – Inyo County Ghost Town

Darwin is a unincorporated community, gold mining town and ghost town located in Inyo County, California about 22 miles from Keeler. The town was named for Darwin French, who lead a party of prospectors into Death Valley in 1860 looking for the mythical gunsight lode. This prospecting eventually lead to the wash, canyon and town named in his honor.

The site which became Darwin was formed in 1874 following a discovery of lead and silver. The overall grwoth of the town was limited by its water supply which is piped from over eight miles away. This discovery coincided with near by Panamint, although the rush to Darwin was more muted. Darwin has a population of about 700 at this time.

The Coso Mining News published weekly from 1875 – 1878 by T.S. Harris. The newspaper closed in September 1878 and the publisher moved up north to Bodie. The moved of the newspaper is symptomatic and followed by many others including miners seeker greener pastures. The town of Darwin had a remaining population of about 250 people. Despite the plunging population the town still supported six saloons, four stores, three restaurants and a drug store. Between the years of 1874 and 1877 newspapers reported at least 80 murders.

Darwin is a rarity and survived its original boom. The town remained viable until World Was I, when larger mining operations could profit of lower yielding ores. A post office opened in 1875 and closed in 1902. Eventually, the post office reopened and remains open today.

The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906.  |  Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.
The Darwin Store run by Reynolds and Etcharren Partners, 1906. | Photo: Courtesy of the Eastern California Museum.

Darwin Today

In 2011, a documentary called Darwin is available on Amazon Prime. The documentary is described, “Propelled from society by tragic turns, the isolated community of Darwin, Death Valley (population 35) must now find ways to coexist in a place without a government, a church, jobs, or children.” I did watch the documentary and found it interesting. However, its focus was on the people living there now and not much on the history.

Recently, Brent Underwood, owner of Cerro Gordo featured Darwin on his youtube channel. He was scrounging old boards from buildings in Darwin to help rebuild Cerro Gordo. I am not sure how I feel about damaging one old town to rebuild another…

Darwin Town Summary

NameDarwin, California
LocationInyo County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.268056 -117.591667
Elvation4,790 ft ( 1460 m )
GNIS241269
Population3500
Post OfficeOpen
NewspaperCoso Mining News ( Nov. 6, 1875 – Sept. 4, 1878 )

Darwin Town Map

Resources

Owens Lake Steamships

Today it is difficult to imagine, but at one time not so long ago, Owens Lake Steamships ferried supplies and silver ore across Owens Lake from the booming silver town of Cerro Gordo, California. Cerro Gordo was a booming silver town located at high elevations in the White Mountains above the tree line. Water and fuel are hauled up the mountain utilizing freight wagons to support the silver mines.

Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.
Cerro Gordo overlooking the then full Owens Lake.

Owens Lake, nestled in the Owens Valley of California, was once a shimmering gem nestled beneath the towering Sierra Nevada mountains. Spanning over 100 square miles, it was a vital oasis for diverse wildlife and a haven for migratory birds. Its glassy surface reflected the surrounding peaks, creating a picturesque landscape beloved by locals and travelers alike. With its abundant water and fertile shores, it supported Native American communities for centuries. However, as Los Angeles began to grow in the late 19th century, demands for water led to the diversion of the Owens River, gradually desiccating Owens Lake and leaving behind a vast salt flat.

Mortimer Belshaw (1830 - 1899 )
Mortimer Belshaw (1830 – 1899 )

Cerro Gordo was a silver mining town located high in the White Mountains east of Owens Lake. The elevation of the town offered some unique challenges in terms of supplies, such as water and fuel. Infrastructure to support the mines and the community needed to be built by Mortimer Belshaw. These supplies are staged in Keeler, CA and hauled up to the town using teams of wagons and a tramway. It is a natural step to build a ferry system to facilitate the transfer of goods, services and more importantly silver bars produce at Cerro Gordo.

Owens Lake itself faced a significant transformation in the 20th century. The Los Angeles Aqueduct, completed in 1913, diverted water from the Owens River, which fed the lake, to Los Angeles. This diversion caused Owens Lake to dry up, transforming it into a largely dry lakebed with environmental and health issues due to dust storms.

Bessie Brady

1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA.  This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.
1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA. This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.

The Bessie Brady made its maiden voyage on July 4, 1872. Measuring about 85 feet in length with a 19-foot beam, the vessel could carry up to 100 tons of cargo, significantly reducing the time and cost of transporting ore. The ship’s route ran from the town of Swansea, near the western shore of Owens Lake, to Cartago on the southern shore. From Cartago, the ore was transported to Los Angeles. The steamer was actually so efficient in hauling silver ore to Cartago Landing, near Olancha, Ca, that the bullion began to pile up. The teamsters who hauled the Silver Ore from Olancha to Los Angeles, simply could not keep up with the vessel.

The introduction of the Bessie Brady revolutionized transportation in the Owens Valley. It provided a more reliable and faster means of moving ore from the Cerro Gordo Mines to markets, boosting the local economy. The steamship also transported supplies and passengers, further integrating the remote mining community with the rest of California.

The success of the Bessie Brady was relatively short-lived. By the mid-1870s, the completion of the Carson and Colorado Railroad reduced the need for lake transport. The railroad provided an even more efficient means of moving goods and people, leading to a decline in the use of the steamship.

Despite its decline, the Bessie Brady continued to operate for several years, serving various purposes, including transporting salt from the lake’s evaporative salt works.

NameBessie Brady
Other Names“The Pioneer inland steamer of the Pacific Coast”
Years of OperationJune 27, 1872 – May 11, 1882
Length85 feet
Beam16 feet
Propulsion20 HP Single Cylinder Oscillating Type Steam
10 inch cylinder bore and 10 inch stroke
Propeller54 inches

Molly Stevens

The Molly Stevens was a steamboat built in the late in 1877 and launched on in May of that year by Colonel Sherman Vanderventer Stevens. It was named after Molly Stevens, in honor of his daughter Molly.. The vessel was is smaller than the Bessie Perl, but does boast of more powerful powerplant. A few days after its’ maiden voyage, the steamship is swamped in the heavy wind driven lake waters. She is raised again to the surface with the help of the Bessie Brady.

By 1878, the Molly Stevens is only making the occasional trip across the Lake and spends the majority of her time moored. In 1881, the vessels is hauling from $6,000 in bullion a week, which is produced by nearby mills. Due to lack of hauling efficiency, the Molly Stevens is again moored and eventually scrapped in the spring of 1882.

On May 11th, 1882, during a refitted of the more powerful steam plant from the Molly Stevens to the Bessie Brady a fire breaks. The fire is started spontaneously by a combination of the Oakum, oil, paint and tar. The inferno quickly takes hold and destroys the last of the steamships on Owens Lake.

The Molly Stevens and Bessie Brady played a crucial role in the economic development of the Owens Valley. By transporting ore efficiently across Owens Lake, these vessels helped boost the mining industry, which was the backbone of the local economy. The presence of the two steamships reduced the time and cost associated with overland transport, making mining operations more profitable.

Molly Stevens Characteristics

NameMolly Stevens
Years of operation1877 – 1882

The Lost Treasure of the Bessie Brady

One other incident, which is not documented, is the alleged existence of a lost treasure in Owens Lake. Allegedly, a wagon load of bullion hauled by the Bessie Brady is swept overboard during a high wind storm. The tale is told that the heavy bullion-filled wagon was not correctly chained to the deck and simply swept over the side.

The story could be from a combination of events, such as the swamping and sinking of the Molly Stevens.

Seemingly a rumor, the Lost Treasure of the Bessie Brady seems to always originate from a person who allegedly heard from someone who knew the captain.

References

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood
Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood

The siren song of Cerro Gordo, a desolate ghost town perched high above Death Valley, has seduced thousands since the 1800s, but few fell harder for it than Brent Underwood, who moved there in March of 2020, only to be immediately snowed in and trapped for weeks.

It had once been the largest silver mine in California. Over $500 million worth of ore was pulled from the miles of tunnels below the town. Butch Cassidy, Mark Twain, and other infamous characters of the American West were rumored to have stayed there. Newspapers reported a murder a week. But that was over 150 years ago.

Underwood bet his life savings—and his life—on this majestic, hardscrabble town that had broken its fair share of ambitious men and women. What followed were fires, floods, earthquakes, and perhaps strangest, fame. Ghost Town Living tells the story of a man against the elements, a forgotten historic place against the modern world, and a dream against all odds—one that has captured millions of followers around the world.

He came looking for a challenge different from the traditional 9-5 job but discovered something much more fulfilling—an undertaking that would call on all of himself and push him beyond what he knew he was capable of. In fact, to bring this abandoned town back to life, Brent had to learn a wealth of new self-sufficiency and problem-solving skills from many generous mentors.

Ghost Town Living is a thrilling read, but it’s also a call to action—to question our too-practical lives and instead seek adventure, build something original, redefine work, and embrace the unknown. It shows what it means to dedicate your life to something, to take a mighty swing at a crazy idea and, like the cardsharps who once haunted Cerro Gordo, go all in.

About the Author

Brent Underwood is the owner of Cerro Gordo, an original boomtown silver mine, established in 1865. He is also the creator of “GhostTownLiving” where he chronicles his adventures on YouTube. Brent currently lives on the mountain above Death Valley with no running water, seven cats, six goats, and at least one ghost.

Book Summary

TitleDeath Valley Gold Rush (Images of Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley
AuthorBrent Underwood
PublisherHarmony Publishing
Pages228 Pages

Thomas Boland

Thomas Boland, a notable figure in the history of Cerro Gordo, California.  ( April 7, 1835 - January 22, 1902 )
Thomas Boland, a notable figure in the history of Cerro Gordo, California. ( April 7, 1835 – January 22, 1902 )

Thomas Boland, a notable figure in the history of Cerro Gordo, California, was born on April 7, 1835, in County Cork, Ireland. Boland’s early life was marked by hardship and resilience, qualities that would serve him well throughout his career. He immigrated to the United States during the Great Irish Famine, seeking better opportunities and the chance to build a new life.

Upon arriving in America, Boland initially settled in New York City, where he worked various labor-intensive jobs. His strong work ethic and determination soon led him westward, drawn by the promise of the California Gold Rush in the early 1850s. Like many immigrants of his time, Boland was eager to seize the opportunities presented by the rapidly expanding American frontier.

In the mid-1860s, Boland made his way to the Inyo Mountains of California, where he became involved in the burgeoning mining industry. The discovery of rich silver and lead deposits at Cerro Gordo attracted miners and entrepreneurs from all over the country. Boland, with his extensive experience and keen business sense, quickly established himself as a prominent figure in the mining community.

Boland’s contributions to Cerro Gordo were multifaceted. As a mining engineer and manager, he played a crucial role in developing the infrastructure necessary for large-scale mining operations. His expertise in geology and mining techniques helped optimize the extraction processes, significantly increasing the productivity of the mines. Boland was instrumental in implementing innovative technologies and methods that enhanced the efficiency and safety of mining activities.

One of Boland’s most significant achievements was his involvement in the construction of the Cerro Gordo Tramway, an aerial tramway designed to transport ore from the mines to the nearby Owens Valley. This engineering marvel, which spanned several miles of rugged terrain, revolutionized the transportation of ore and greatly reduced the costs associated with its movement. The tramway’s success was a testament to Boland’s vision and ingenuity.

In addition to his technical contributions, Boland was known for his leadership and commitment to the well-being of the mining community. He advocated for better working conditions, fair wages, and safety measures for the miners, earning their respect and loyalty. Boland’s efforts to improve living conditions in Cerro Gordo included the establishment of housing, schools, and healthcare facilities, which helped create a more stable and prosperous community.

Thomas Boland’s impact on Cerro Gordo extended beyond his lifetime. His pioneering spirit and dedication to innovation set a standard for future mining operations in the region. Boland’s legacy is remembered not only through his technical achievements but also through his commitment to the welfare of the people who lived and worked in Cerro Gordo.

Boland passed away on January 22, 1902, leaving behind a legacy of industrial progress and community development. His contributions to Cerro Gordo are a testament to the transformative power of hard work, innovation, and a steadfast commitment to improving the lives of others. Today, Thomas Boland is celebrated as one of the key figures who helped shape the history and success of Cerro Gordo during its most prosperous years.

Julius M. Keeler

Julius M. Keeler ( 
16 Jul 1823 - 28 Jan 1890 )
Julius M. Keeler ( 16 Jul 1823 – 28 Jan 1890 )

Julius M. Keeler, a prominent figure in the development of the American West, was born on June 4, 1838, in Binghamton, New York. His early years were marked by a strong work ethic and a fascination with the burgeoning opportunities that the western frontier promised. These qualities would drive him to become a significant contributor to the mining and transportation industries of his time.

Keeler’s journey westward began during the California Gold Rush. In the early 1860s, he moved to California, drawn by the allure of fortune and the chance to make a name for himself. He initially worked in various mining camps, gaining firsthand experience in the challenges and rewards of mining life. His intelligence and knack for problem-solving quickly set him apart, and he began to acquire small stakes in successful mining ventures.

By the late 1870s, Keeler had established himself as a savvy and resourceful entrepreneur. His involvement with the Cerro Gordo Mines in the Inyo Mountains of California marked a turning point in his career. Alongside investors like Mortimer Belshaw, Keeler recognized the immense potential of the rich silver and lead deposits in the region. Their combined efforts transformed Cerro Gordo into one of the most productive mining operations in California.

Keeler’s role at Cerro Gordo extended beyond mining. Understanding the critical need for efficient transportation of ore, he spearheaded the construction of a wagon road to connect the remote mining camp with the Owens Valley. This road, later complemented by the narrow-gauge Carson and Colorado Railway, was crucial in ensuring the economic viability of the mines by facilitating the transport of ore to smelters and markets.

In recognition of his contributions to the region, the town of Keeler, California, was named in his honor. The town served as a vital shipping point for the Cerro Gordo Mines and played a significant role in the local economy. Under Keeler’s influence, the area saw improvements in infrastructure and living conditions, benefiting both the mining community and the broader region.

Beyond his achievements in mining and transportation, Julius M. Keeler was known for his philanthropic endeavors. He supported various community initiatives, including the establishment of schools and healthcare facilities. His commitment to improving the lives of those around him reflected his belief in the potential of the American West as a place of opportunity and growth for all its inhabitants.

Keeler’s later years were spent overseeing his various business interests and continuing his philanthropic work. He remained a respected figure in the community until his death on January 15, 1908. His legacy is remembered through the lasting impact of his contributions to the mining industry and the development of the Owens Valley region.

Julius M. Keeler’s life story is a testament to the spirit of innovation, determination, and community-mindedness that characterized the American frontier during its most transformative years. His work not only advanced the economic prospects of his time but also laid the groundwork for future generations to thrive in the West.

References