Nestled in the northeastern corner of Arizona, Navajo County spans nearly 10,000 square miles of diverse landscapes, from the arid Painted Desert to the lush ponderosa pine forests of the White Mountains. Home to significant portions of the Navajo Nation, Hopi Indian Reservation, and Fort Apache Indian Reservation, the county’s history is deeply intertwined with Indigenous cultures, European exploration, and American expansion. With a population exceeding 115,000 as of recent estimates, Navajo County balances its rich past with modern tourism and natural resource industries. This report chronicles its timeline from prehistoric inhabitants to contemporary developments.
Prehistoric and Ancient Inhabitants (1500s–1700s)
The story of Navajo County begins with the Ancestral Puebloans, often referred to as the Anasazi, who inhabited the region in the 1500s. These pueblo-dwelling people established communities along waterways and mesas, leaving behind archaeological sites that reveal sophisticated agricultural practices, pottery, and architecture. Oraibi, located in the northeastern part of the county on the Hopi Reservation, stands as the oldest continuously inhabited town in the United States, with roots tracing back over 1,000 years. Evidence of their lives, including cliff dwellings and petroglyphs, dots the landscape, particularly at sites like Homolovi Ruins State Park near Winslow.
Spanish explorers arrived in the 16th century, drawn by legends of the Seven Cities of Cibola and their gold. Missionaries followed, attempting to Christianize Indigenous populations. However, the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 expelled Europeans from the area, halting missionary efforts and preserving Native autonomy for nearly two centuries.
19th Century: Exploration, Settlement, and Conflict
The 1800s marked a turbulent era of American expansion into the Southwest. In 1824–1832, trappers ventured along streams like Chevelon’s Fork, a tributary of the Little Colorado River, which would later become part of Navajo County. The U.S. acquired the territory after the Mexican-American War, prompting expeditions such as Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves’ 1850 survey along the 35th parallel, mapping routes that foreshadowed future wagon trails, railroads, and highways. Lieutenant Edward Beale’s 1857 wagon road expedition crossed key points like Horsehead Crossing on the Little Colorado, laying groundwork for Route 66.
Mormon pioneers from Utah began settling the Little Colorado River Valley in 1876, establishing communities like Sunset, Brigham City, Obed, St. Joseph (later Joseph City), and Woodruff. These settlers built irrigation dams, though floods often destroyed them. Show Low was founded in 1872 by C.E. Cooley and Marion Clark, named after a legendary low-card poker hand that decided land rights. Taylor (1878) and Snowflake (also 1878) followed, named for Mormon leaders.
The Navajo people faced profound trauma during this period. In 1863–1868, U.S. forces under Kit Carson conducted scorched-earth campaigns, culminating in the Long Walk—a forced 250–450-mile march of up to 10,000 Navajo to Bosque Redondo, New Mexico, where thousands perished from disease and starvation. The 1868 Treaty of Bosque Redondo allowed their return, establishing the Navajo Reservation.
Apache County was created in 1879 (with Snowflake briefly as county seat), encompassing what is now Navajo County. The arrival of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad in 1881 spurred growth, naming Holbrook after engineer H.R. Holbrook. The Aztec Land and Cattle Company’s Hashknife Outfit dominated ranching, but lawlessness peaked during the Pleasant Valley War (1880s), a bloody sheep-cattle feud involving outlaws and rustlers. Sheriff Commodore Perry Owens’ 1887 gunfight in Holbrook became legendary.
County Formation and Early 20th Century (1895–1940s)
Navajo County was carved from Apache County on March 21, 1895, as the Territorial Assembly’s final act before midnight adjournment. Holbrook edged out Winslow as county seat in a close election, with Owens appointed as the first sheriff. The county courthouse, built in 1898 for $15,000, hosted the first hanging in 1900—that of murderer George Smiley, whose ghost reportedly haunts the site.
The early 1900s saw preservation efforts: President Theodore Roosevelt designated Petrified Forest National Monument in 1906. Arizona statehood arrived in 1912. Route 66’s establishment in 1926 boosted tourism, with Holbrook and Winslow thriving as stops. Fred Harvey’s La Posada Hotel opened in Winslow in 1930, a architectural gem by Mary Colter. The Great Depression brought public works, including courthouse renovations and Petrified Forest structures. World War II highlighted Navajo Code Talkers’ heroism, though recognition came later.
Modern Developments (1950s–Present)
Postwar Route 66 symbolized American wanderlust, with quirky stops like Holbrook’s Wigwam Motel. The 1950s saw the Hashknife Posse’s Pony Express Ride begin, a tradition carrying U.S. Mail horseback from Holbrook to Scottsdale. I-40’s 1980 bypass ended the Route 66 era but shifted focus to natural attractions.
Economic pillars include timber, cattle, logging, mining, and tourism. Northland Pioneer College opened in 1974, enhancing education. The Navajo County Historical Society, founded in 1969 and formalized in 1979, operates the Historic Courthouse Museum. Today, nearly 66% of the county is reservation land, fostering cultural preservation amid growth in summer tourism and enterprise zones. Challenges like floods persist, but the county’s heritage endures through sites like the Navajo Code Talkers Museum and annual events such as the Navajo County Fair.
Top Points of Interest: Icons of Earth and Time
- Petrified Forest National Park: Marvel at 225-million-year-old petrified logs glowing in rainbow hues amid badlands. Hike the Blue Mesa Trail or drive the 28-mile scenic loop—don’t miss the colossal “Old Faithful” log! Entry: $25/vehicle.
- Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park: Iconic red sandstone buttes rise like sentinels from the desert floor. Take the 17-mile Valley Drive or join a guided Navajo tour to John Ford’s Point for cinematic vistas. Sunrise jeep tours reveal sacred stories—$8 entry, tours from $75.
- Painted Desert: A kaleidoscope of crimson, lavender, and gold stripes unfolds across 7,500 square miles. Best viewed from Petrified Forest overlooks or Homolovi Ruins State Park, where Ancestral Puebloan villages whisper of ancient life ($7 entry).
- Historic Navajo County Courthouse & Museum (Holbrook): Step into 1898 grandeur at this haunted gem on the National Register. Explore Hashknife cowboy lore, Route 66 artifacts, and Smiley’s spectral tales. Free admission, open daily.
- La Posada Hotel & Turquoise Room (Winslow): Mary Colter’s 1930 masterpiece revives Harvey House elegance with Navajo-inspired art. Dine on Southwestern fusion, shop turquoise jewelry, and snap your “Standing on the Corner” photo nearby. Rooms from $150/night.
- Wigwam Motel (Holbrook): Sleep in a 1950s teepee village straight out of Route 66 dreams! Retro neon and classic cars set the scene—rooms $75–$100.
- Navajo National Monument: Hike to Betatakin and Keet Seel cliff dwellings, ancient Puebloan masterpieces. Ranger-led tours (May–September) unveil 800-year-old secrets—free entry, permits required for backcountry.
Outdoor Adventures: Breathe the Wild Air
Navajo County’s landscapes ignite the explorer in you!
- Hiking & Biking: Trek the Mogollon Rim’s ponderosa trails or mountain bike in the White Mountains—over 200 miles of paths await.
- Fishing & Boating: Cast lines in Show Low Lake or Fool Hollow Lake for trout and bass. Kayak the Little Colorado for serene floats.
- Camping: Pitch under stars at Petrified Forest ($25/night) or forested sites in Heber-Overgaard. RV havens abound in Pinetop-Lakeside.
- Winter Sports: Snowshoe or cross-country ski in the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest—fresh powder from December to March.
- Golf: Tee off at Pine Meadows (Heber-Overgaard) or Hidden Cove (Holbrook) amid stunning vistas.
Scenic drives like the Babbitt Ranch Road offer off-the-beaten-path thrills.