Racetrack Valley

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc…  Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.

Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.
Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.

The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…

Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.

As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.

Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.

The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.
The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.

As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.

The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.

Jeeps and Labradors are not allowed on the playa!

To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.

The Racing stones.
The Racing stones.

At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.

Every racetrack needs a grandstand.
Every racetrack needs a grandstand.

Notoriety

On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.

Racetrack Valley Trail Map

References

The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA

The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.

The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Formation of the Standard Company

The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.

Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill

The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.

Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA.  Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. 
 Photograph by James L Rathbun
Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Technical Details

Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.

Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.

The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away.  Photograph by James L Rathbun
The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.

Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth

The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.

Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots.  Standard Mill, Bodie,
Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots. Standard Mill, Bodie,

Challenges and Decline

All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.
All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.

Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.

Preservation and Historical Significance

Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.

The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie.  Photography by James L Rathbun
The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun

Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.

The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.

The Standard Mill Map

More Standard Mill Photographs

The Hoover House

The Hoover House, located in Bodie, California, is a significant part of the town’s rich history. Bodie itself is a well-preserved ghost town that exemplifies the late 19th-century gold rush era in the United States. The town, named after Waterman S. Body (later spelled Bodie), experienced its peak during the late 1800s after gold was discovered in 1859.

The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun
The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun

The Hoover House was built during Bodie’s boom period in the late 19th century. The home served as a residence for the While specific records about the construction date of the Hoover House are scarce, it is believed to have been built around the 1880s, when Bodie was thriving with a population that peaked at around 10,000 people. The house is a representative example of the residential architecture of that time, featuring wood-frame construction and a design typical of the homes built for the town’s middle and upper-class citizens.

The Hoover Family

Theodore Hoover in Bodie, Calif., 1904
Theodore Hoover in Bodie, Calif., 1904

The Hoover House is named after the Hoover family, who were among the prominent residents of Bodie. Theodore Hoover, and his wife Mildred, lived in the house, while he served as the head of mining operations for the Standard Mill. It is said that Theodores brother, Herbert Hoover, visited the town during his tenure with the Standard Mill.

The house features a large veranda which overlooks the town and was one of the nicer structures in the town. However, this peace the site now must not compare with the sound of the stamp mills located just a few hundred feet from the front door. The stamps of the Standard mill of the operated 24 hours a day, six days a week and the sounds from the stamps could be heard four miles from the town.

The family was involved in various local businesses, contributing to the economic development of the town. Like many other families, the Hoovers moved to Bodie in search of prosperity brought about by the gold mining industry.

Life in Bodie

Life in Bodie during its peak was rough and often dangerous. The town was notorious for its lawlessness, with frequent gunfights and a high crime rate. Despite this, families like the Hoovers established homes and contributed to the community’s social fabric. The Hoover House would have been a comfortable residence compared to the more modest dwellings of the working-class miners.

The Hoover House Today

Today, the Hoover House stands as a testament to Bodie’s vibrant, albeit short-lived, history. Visitors to Bodie State Historic Park can view the house and get a sense of what life was like during the town’s heyday. The house, like many others in Bodie, offers a glimpse into the past, with its weathered wooden walls and remnants of a bygone era. The home is physically located near the Standard Mill.

The Hoover House, along with the rest of Bodie, serves as a historical treasure, providing valuable insights into the lives of those who lived during one of America’s most famous gold rushes.

Hoover House Summary

NameHoover House
LocationBodie, Mono County, California
Latitude, Longitude38.2121, -119.0101
Elevation8,425 ft

Hoover House Map

References

Manzanar California

Manzanar Enterance and sign. Photograph by Ansel Adam
Manzanar Enterance and sign. IMAGE: ANSEL ADAMS/LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
Rebuilt Guardtower located an Manzanar Relocation Camp.  Photo by James L Rathbun
Rebuilt Guardtower located an Manzanar Relocation Camp. Photo by James L Rathbun

Manzanar, located in California’s Owens Valley, was one of ten internment camps established by the United States government during World War II to detain Japanese Americans and Japanese immigrants. Operational from 1942 to 1945, it became a symbol of a dark chapter in American history, reflecting the impact of wartime hysteria, racial prejudice, and civil rights violations. This report examines the historical context, establishment, life within the camp, its closure, and its legacy.

Historical Context

Following the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, fear and suspicion of Japanese Americans grew on the West Coast. Despite no evidence of disloyalty, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed Executive Order 9066 on February 19, 1942, authorizing the forced removal of approximately 120,000 Japanese Americans—two-thirds of whom were U.S. citizens—from their homes. The War Relocation Authority (WRA) was created to oversee the relocation and internment process. Manzanar was one of the first camps established under this policy.

Establishment of Manzanar

Manzanar, located 220 miles northeast of Los Angeles near the Sierra Nevada, was selected for its remote location and existing infrastructure from a former agricultural community. The site spanned 6,200 acres, with the internment camp occupying 540 acres. Construction began in March 1942, and the camp opened on March 21, 1942, initially as a temporary “reception center.” By June, it was designated a War Relocation Center.

The camp consisted of 36 residential blocks, each with 14 barracks, a mess hall, and communal facilities. Barbed wire and eight guard towers surrounded the camp, emphasizing its prison-like nature. At its peak, the relocation camp housed over 10,000 internees, primarily from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and the Pacific Northwest.

Life in Manzanar

Life in the camp was marked by hardship, resilience, and community-building under oppressive conditions.

Living Conditions

  • Housing: Internees lived in cramped, poorly insulated barracks divided into 20×25-foot units. Families shared these spaces with minimal privacy, using blankets or makeshift partitions. Harsh weather—scorching summers and freezing winters—exacerbated discomfort.
  • Food and Work: Meals were served in mess halls, often consisting of low-quality food like mutton or rice. Internees worked in roles such as farming, teaching, or medical care, earning $12-$19 monthly. Some cultivated crops like guayule for rubber production.
  • Education and Recreation: Schools were established for children, though resources were limited. Internees organized sports, cultural events, and newspapers like the Manzanar Free Press to maintain morale.

Photographer: Lange, Dorothea -- Manzanar, California. 7/2/42 Identifier: Volume 22 Identifier: Section C Identifier: WRA no. C-837 Collection: War Relocation Authority Photographs of Japanese-American Evacuation and Resettlement Series 8: Manzanar Relocation Center (Manzanar, CA) Contributing Institution: The Bancroft Library. University of California, Berkeley.
Photographer: Lange, Dorothea — Manzanar, California. 7/2/42 Identifier: Volume 22 Identifier: Section C Identifier: WRA no. C-837 Collection: War Relocation Authority Photographs of Japanese-American Evacuation and Resettlement Series 8: Manzanar Relocation Center (Manzanar, CA) Contributing Institution: The Bancroft Library. University of California, Berkeley.

Challenges and Resistance

Internees faced loss of freedom, dignity, and property. Many had been forced to sell businesses and homes at a fraction of their value. Tensions occasionally flared, notably during the Manzanar Riot (December 6, 1942), sparked by the arrest of a popular internee leader. The clash resulted in two deaths and several injuries when military police fired on protesters.

Despite these challenges, internees demonstrated resilience. They created gardens, art, and community organizations, preserving cultural identity and hope.

Closure and Aftermath

As World War II ended, the camp is closed on November 21, 1945. Internees were given $25 and a one-way ticket to return to often-hostile communities. Many faced economic hardship and discrimination, having lost their pre-war livelihoods. The camp’s infrastructure was dismantled, leaving little physical evidence of its existence.

Photo by Ansel Adams

Legacy

Manzanar stands as a stark reminder of the consequences of fear-driven policy and racial prejudice. In 1988, the U.S. government formally apologized through the Civil Liberties Act, providing $20,000 in reparations to surviving internees. The site was designated a National Historic Site in 1992, managed by the National Park Service. Today, it features a visitor center, reconstructed barracks, and exhibits preserving the stories of those interned.

The camp’s history has inspired art, literature, and activism. Works like Farewell to Manzanar by Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston and the photography of Ansel Adams and Dorothea Lange document the internees’ experiences. Manzanar serves as a call to uphold civil liberties and combat discrimination.

Conclusion

Manzanar encapsulates a complex interplay of injustice and human resilience. Its history underscores the importance of safeguarding constitutional rights during times of crisis. By studying the effects of the relocation, we honor the strength of those who endured it and commit to preventing such violations in the future.

Summary

NameManzanar
LocationInyo County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.7283, -118.1544
Elevation3,850 ft
GNIS1659050
Population10,000+
Newspaper Manzanar Free Press (1942 – 1945)
National Register of Historic Places76000484
Manzanar Cemetery Monument.  Photo By James L Rathbun
Manzanar Cemetery Monument. Photo By James L Rathbun

Other Japanese Internment Camps:

  • Gila River War Relocation Center, Arizona
  • Granada War Relocation Center, Colorado (AKA “Amache”)
  • Heart Mountain War Relocation Center, Wyoming
  • Jerome War Relocation Center, Arkansas
  • Manzanar War Relocation Center, California
  • Minidoka War Relocation Center, Idaho
  • Poston War Relocation Center, Arizona
  • Rohwer War Relocation Center, Arkansas
  • Topaz War Relocation Center, Utah
  • Tule Lake War Relocation Center, California

Manzanar Map

Photos around Manzanar War Relocation Center

Further Reading

Farewell to Manzanar, by Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston

Farewell to Manzanar

Farewell to Manzanar, by Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston In Farewell to Manzanar, Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston recalls her childhood at a Japanese incarceration camp in this engrossing…
Manzanar (Images of America) by Jane Wehrey

Manzanar (Images of America)

Manzanar (Images of America) by Jane Wehrey Through a collection of vintage photographs, the Images of America series allows readers to explore the history that…

References

The Fight of the Century

On July 4, 1910, in Reno, Nevada, the “Fight of the Century” took place between Jack Johnson, the first African American World Heavyweight Champion, and James J. Jeffries, the former undefeated heavyweight champion who came out of retirement to challenge him. This boxing match was more than a sporting event; it was a cultural and racial flashpoint in early 20th-century America, reflecting deep-seated racial tensions and societal divides. The fight, held in a specially constructed arena, drew unprecedented attention and had far-reaching consequences, including race riots across the United States.

Original caption: Action shot of Jack Johnson fighting Jim Jeffries at Reno in 1910. Jeffries was beaten over 15 rounds. 1919 Reno, Nevada, USA

Background

Jack Johnson, known as the “Galveston Giant,” won the heavyweight title in 1908 by defeating Tommy Burns in Sydney, Australia, becoming the first Black man to hold the prestigious title. His victory was a source of pride for African Americans but provoked outrage among many white Americans, who viewed his success as a challenge to racial hierarchies. Johnson’s flamboyant personality, confidence, and refusal to conform to societal expectations further fueled animosity, with the press often portraying him negatively.

James J. Jeffries, nicknamed “The Boilermaker,” was a white former champion who retired undefeated in 1904. Persuaded by promoter Tex Rickard and driven by societal pressure to “reclaim the title for the white race,” Jeffries came out of retirement. He publicly stated his intention was to prove “a white man is better than a Negro,” earning him the moniker “Great White Hope.” At 35 years old, Jeffries had not fought in six years and needed to lose over 100 pounds to return to fighting weight, raising questions about his physical readiness.

The fight was heavily promoted by Tex Rickard and John Gleason, who secured a purse of $101,000, with the winner initially set to receive 75% and the loser 25%, though the split was later adjusted to 60/40 at Johnson’s suggestion. Both fighters also received a $10,000 signing bonus and shares of the film rights, which promised significant revenue. The event was moved from San Francisco to Reno after California’s governor banned it due to moral and religious objections, highlighting the controversial nature of boxing at the time.

The Build-Up

The lead-up to the fight was charged with racial rhetoric. The press framed it as a clash of civilizations, with Jeffries as the representative of white supremacy and Johnson as a symbol of Black defiance. Author Jack London, who had covered Johnson’s victory over Burns, called for Jeffries to restore the title to the “white race,” while a New York Times editorial warned that a Johnson victory could embolden African Americans to seek “more than mere physical equality.” Such coverage amplified racial tensions and drew global attention, with over 500 media members reporting from Reno.

The fight attracted a crowd of over 18,000, with estimates ranging up to 22,000, who gathered in a purpose-built wooden amphitheater on East 4th Street in Reno, Washoe County, near the Southern Pacific railroad tracks. Spectators arrived by buggy, automobile, rail, and streetcar, with nine cameramen capturing the event for film distribution. The atmosphere was tense, with strict security measures prohibiting guns, alcohol, and even apples to prevent violence. Betting odds favored Jeffries at 10–7, reflecting public confidence in his victory despite his long hiatus.

Johnson, known for his charisma, soaked up the spotlight during training at Rick’s Resort, often joking with his camp, while Jeffries trained quietly at Moana Springs, avoiding media attention. Prominent figures like John L. Sullivan, who predicted Johnson’s skill would prevail unless he faltered, added to the hype. The stage was set for a historic confrontation.

The Fight

On July 4, 1910, under the scorching Nevada sun, the fight commenced before a predominantly white crowd of over 12,000, with some estimates suggesting up to 20,000 spectators. Johnson, at 32, was in peak physical condition, while Jeffries, heavier and slower, struggled to keep pace. From the opening bell, Johnson dominated with his superior speed, footwork, and defensive prowess, frustrating Jeffries’ attempts to land significant blows.

By the 12th round, Jeffries was visibly battered, his face swollen and bleeding, with Johnson’s taunts and precise punches wearing him down. Reports suggest Johnson prolonged the fight, possibly to maximize the film’s revenue potential or to punish Jeffries, though he later denied such claims. In the 15th round, Johnson knocked Jeffries down twice for the first time in his career. After a third knockdown sent Jeffries through the ropes, his corner threw in the towel to prevent a knockout, ending the fight. Johnson was declared the victor, retaining his heavyweight title.

Jeffries later admitted, “I could never have whipped Johnson at my best. I couldn’t have hit him. No, I couldn’t have reached him in a thousand years,” acknowledging Johnson’s superior skill. The San Diego Union reported Johnson’s dominance, noting he “played with” Jeffries throughout the match.

Aftermath and Impact

Johnson’s victory was a triumph for African Americans but triggered widespread outrage among white communities. Race riots erupted across the United States, with over 20 deaths, predominantly Black individuals, as white mobs attacked Black celebrants. Cities like Chicago, New York, and Atlanta saw violence, and the film of the fight was banned in many states due to fears it would incite further unrest, marking the first instance of racist film censorship in U.S. history. Congress later passed a 1912 ban on interstate transport of fight films, which remained until 1940.

The fight exposed America’s racial fault lines, with Johnson’s victory challenging notions of white supremacy. It became a cultural touchstone, inspiring poems like William Waring Cuney’s, which celebrated Johnson’s triumph, and fueling discussions on race and equality. The event’s legacy endures as a pivotal moment in sports and social history, highlighting both the power of athletic achievement and the deep-seated prejudices of the era.

Conclusion

The Johnson-Jeffries fight of 1910 was a landmark event that transcended boxing, reflecting and reshaping America’s racial dynamics. Jack Johnson’s decisive victory over James J. Jeffries not only solidified his status as a boxing legend but also challenged societal norms, sparking both celebration and violence. The fight’s significance lies in its role as a catalyst for conversations about race, equality, and the power of sport to influence cultural perceptions, making it a defining moment in American history.

Nevada State Historic Marker 220

On this site on July 4, 1910, Reno hosted ‘The Fight of the Century,” a heavyweight championship boxing match between John Arthur Jack Johnson, the African American title holder, and James J. ‘Jim’ Jeffries, a former champion seeking to regain the title he had vacated in 1904.  Jeffries had refereed a previous championship bout between Marvin Hart and Jack Root at this site on July 3, 1905, but the promotion of the ex-champion as “The Great White Hope’ focused worldwide attention on his 1910 contest with the talented Johnson, known as the “Galveston Giant.”  Gamblers had their money on Jeffries, but Johnson easily handled his opponent and Jeffries’ trainers called the fight in the fifteenth round to save their man from the disgrace of a knockout.

Organized by famed promoter Tex Rickard, the fight brought over 30,000 fans to Reno, some 22,000 of whom packed the arena here on the day of the fight.

STATE HISTORICAL MARKER NO.  220

STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE

THE WASHOE COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY

THE NEVADA CORRAL WESTERNERS INTERNATIONAL

Nevada State Historic Marker 220 Map

Nevada State Historic Marker 220

NameThe Fight of the Century
LocationReno, Washoe County, Nevada
Latitude, Longitude39.5332, -119.7964
Nevada State Historic Marker220

References