Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Sunset Campground
Sunset Campground, located at approximately 8,000 feet elevation in Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah, is a seasonal campground open from mid-April to mid-October, offering 100 sites: 46 tent-only sites (Loops B and C), 50 RV/tent sites (Loop A), one reservable group site, and two wheelchair-accessible sites. From January 1 to April 14, 2025, the campground is closed; from April 15 to May 16 and October 8 to mid-October, it operates on a first-come, first-served basis; and from May 17 to October 7, all sites require reservations through Recreation.gov. Set in a ponderosa pine forest near Sunset Point and the Bryce Amphitheater, it provides easy access to iconic trails like the Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden, as well as the park’s shuttle system. The campground offers flush toilets and potable water but lacks showers and hook-ups, requiring preparation for high-altitude conditions and Dark Sky Park regulations. This review details the campground’s setting, amenities, accessibility, and overall experience, paired with a description of Bryce Canyon National Park.
Description of Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce Canyon National Park, a 35,835-acre geologic wonder in southwestern Utah, is famed for its vibrant hoodoos—spires of limestone, dolomite, and siltstone sculpted by erosion into fantastical shapes of pink, orange, and white. Situated at 7,000–9,100 feet elevation along the Paunsaugunt Plateau, the park’s centerpiece is the Bryce Amphitheater, a natural bowl showcasing the densest collection of hoodoos, best viewed from Sunrise, Sunset, Inspiration, and Bryce Points. Beyond the amphitheater, the park stretches across 18 miles of scenic viewpoints like Rainbow and Yovimpa Points, connected by a scenic drive, and features 60 miles of trails, from the easy Rim Trail to the strenuous Under-the-Rim Trail (22.9 miles).
The park’s high elevation brings cooler temperatures (50–80°F in summer, 20–40°F at night) and occasional summer thunderstorms or spring snow. Wildlife includes mule deer, Utah prairie dogs, pronghorn, mountain lions, and birds like Steller’s jays and peregrine falcons. As an International Dark Sky Park, Bryce Canyon offers exceptional stargazing, with over 7,500 stars visible on moonless nights, celebrated annually at the June Astronomy Festival and through over 100 nightly ranger-led programs, including full-moon hikes. Nearby attractions like Red Canyon, Kodachrome Basin State Park, and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument enhance its appeal, while Scenic Byway 12 offers jaw-dropping red rock views. Bryce Canyon’s unique geology, hiking opportunities, and starry skies make it a bucket-list destination for adventurers and photographers.
Campground Details
Location and Accessibility
Sunset Campground is located 1.5 miles south of the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center, just west of Sunset Point on Highway 63. From Panguitch, Utah, travel 7 miles south on Highway 89, east on Highway 12 for 14 miles, then south on Highway 63 to the park entrance; the campground is on the right, past North Campground and the Visitor Center. Its proximity to Sunset Point (0.5-mile walk) and the Navajo Loop trailhead makes it ideal for hikers, and a shuttle stop at the campground entrance (mid-April to mid-October) connects to major viewpoints and trails.
The campground features paved roads and spurs in Loop A (RV/tent, sites 200–249) and gravel spurs in Loops B (252–271) and C (272–310, tent-only), accommodating vehicles up to 60 feet in Loop A but 20 feet max in Loops B and C. Two wheelchair-accessible sites in Loop A offer paved surfaces and proximity to flush toilets. The hilly terrain may challenge mobility-impaired visitors, and some sites are unlevel. “Site 216 was hilly but had a great sunset view,” noted a camper (Campendium, 2025). Potable water and flush toilets are available, but no cell service or Wi-Fi exists; bring printed reservation confirmations. Check-in is at the registration kiosk, where first-come, first-served campers select sites and deposit payment ($30/night) in an envelope.
Amenities
Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring with grill, and access to bear-proof food storage (recommended, though bear activity is low). Flush toilets and potable water spigots are well-maintained, with campers praising cleanliness: “Bathrooms were warm and spotless,” said a reviewer (Tripadvisor, 2025). No showers or laundry are on-site, but coin-operated facilities are available at the General Store near North Campground (1.5 miles, seasonal). A free dump station is located at North Campground’s southern end (mid-May to mid-October). No electric, water, or sewer hook-ups are provided, and portable showers/toilets are prohibited. The General Store sells groceries, firewood, and supplies, while Bryce Canyon Lodge (1 mile) offers dining. Trash and recycling are provided with animal-proof dumpsters. Generators are allowed in Loop A only (8 AM–8 PM), ensuring quieter Loops B and C. Dark Sky Park rules prohibit extra lighting like string lights.
Campsite Layout and Privacy
Sunset Campground’s three loops are set in a ponderosa pine forest with rolling hills, offering a mix of sun and shade. Loop A accommodates RVs and tents, with larger, paved sites but less privacy due to proximity to the road and shuttle stop. Loops B and C, tent-only, are quieter and more secluded, with gravel spurs and more tree cover. “Loop C felt tucked away, perfect for tents,” said a camper (The Dyrt, 2025). Sites are spacious but close together, with limited ground-level privacy due to sparse undergrowth. “Sites are thin—our truck didn’t fit site 216,” noted a camper (Campendium, 2025). The group site in Loop A accommodates up to 30 people. The campground’s hilly layout and meadow views enhance its scenic appeal, though some sites (e.g., 200–210) hear road noise.
RV and Tent Camping
Loop A supports RVs and trailers up to 60 feet, though many sites fit 20–40 feet due to trees and slopes; Loops B and C are limited to tents and camper vans (20 feet max). “Our 30-foot trailer barely fit site 205—check site lengths,” warned a camper (Campendium, 2025). Two vehicles are allowed per site (trailers excluded), with overflow parking near site 245 in Loop A, which can be inconvenient. “Parking our truck away from site 216 was a hassle,” noted a reviewer (Campendium, 2025). Loops B and C are generator-free, ideal for tent campers seeking quiet. Sites may be unlevel, especially in Loop A, requiring leveling blocks. The forested setting, with hoodoos visible from nearby trails, creates a magical camping experience, enhanced by Dark Sky-compliant lighting for stargazing.
Reservation and Cost
From May 17 to October 7, 2025, all sites require reservations via Recreation.gov, bookable six months in advance (opening 7 AM MST). From April 15 to May 16 and October 8 to mid-October, sites are first-come, first-served, filling by noon in peak season. “Arrive by 8 AM for FCFS—sites were gone by 11 AM,” advised a camper (The Dyrt, 2025). RV/tent sites cost $30/night, tent-only sites $20/night, and the group site $50/night, with a 50% discount for Senior/Access Passholders. A $35 vehicle entrance fee (valid 7 days) is separate, and day-use reservations may be required in peak season. No-shows face a $20 fee and forfeit one night’s fee. A 14-day stay limit applies park-wide from May to October.
Activities and Attractions
Sunset Campground is a short walk from Sunset Point (0.5 miles), offering access to the Navajo Loop (1.4 miles), Queen’s Garden (1.8 miles), and combined Navajo/Queen’s Garden Loop (2.9 miles), showcasing hoodoos and slot canyons. “Hiking Navajo Loop from camp at sunrise was breathtaking,” said a camper (PerfectCamp, 2025). The Rim Trail connects to Sunrise Point (1 mile) and Bryce Canyon Lodge (1 mile). The park shuttle, stopping at the campground entrance, links to viewpoints like Inspiration Point and trailheads. Stargazing is a highlight, with ranger-led astronomy programs at the Visitor Center or campground amphitheater. The Mossy Cave Trail (8 miles) and Ebenezer Bryce Cabin (5.3 miles) are nearby, while Red Canyon and Kodachrome Basin State Park are short drives. Horseback riding, biking on paved paths, and winter snowshoeing are also available.
Wildlife and Safety
Wildlife includes mule deer, Utah prairie dogs, and rare mountain lions or black bears. Food should be stored in vehicles or lockers to deter animals, though bear activity is minimal. Pets are allowed on leashes (6 feet max) in campgrounds and paved areas but not on unpaved trails. The 8,000-foot elevation may cause altitude sickness, so hydrate and rest upon arrival. Weather varies from warm days (50–80°F) to cold nights (20–40°F), with summer thunderstorms and possible spring snow. “It dropped to 27°F at night—bring warm gear,” warned a camper (The Dyrt, 2025). Fire restrictions may apply, and wood gathering is prohibited; purchase firewood at the General Store. Check weather and fire alerts on NPS.gov.
Sunset Campground Map
Camper Feedback
Positives
- Location: Proximity to Sunset Point and trails is a major draw. “Walking to Navajo Loop from camp was so convenient,” said a reviewer (Tripadvisor, 2025).
- Scenery: The pine forest and hoodoo views are stunning. “Sunset views from site 216 were unreal,” noted a camper (Campendium, 2025).
- Clean Facilities: Flush toilets and restrooms are well-maintained. “Bathrooms were clean and heated,” shared a reviewer (The Dyrt, 2025).
- Stargazing: Dark Sky Park status is a highlight. “The stars were incredible—best we’ve seen,” said a camper (PerfectCamp, 2025).
Negatives
- Limited Privacy: Sites are close together. “Little privacy in Loop A—sites felt cramped,” noted a camper (Campendium, 2025).
- Unlevel Sites: Some sites are sloped. “Site 205 was tough to level for our RV,” complained a reviewer (The Dyrt, 2025).
- No Showers: The lack of on-site showers is a drawback. “Walking 1.5 miles for showers was inconvenient,” said a camper (Campendium, 2024).
- Parking Issues: Larger RVs struggle with parking. “Couldn’t fit our truck in site 216—overflow lot was far,” noted a reviewer (Campendium, 2025).
Tips for Campers
- Book Early: Reserve Loop A sites six months in advance on Recreation.gov for May 17–October 7. For FCFS, arrive by 8 AM, especially in summer.
- Choose Tent Sites: Loops B or C are quieter and better for tents. “Loop C was peaceful with good shade,” said a camper (The Dyrt, 2025).
- Bring Leveling Gear: Pack blocks for unlevel sites, especially in Loop A. Check site dimensions on Recreation.gov.
- Weather Prep: Pack layers, a tarp, and a warm sleeping bag for cold nights and potential storms.
- Acclimatize: Rest upon arrival to adjust to 8,000 feet elevation. Drink plenty of water to avoid altitude sickness.
- Maximize Stargazing: Attend ranger-led astronomy programs and avoid extra lighting to comply with Dark Sky rules.
Overall Experience
Sunset Campground is a prime base for exploring Bryce Canyon National Park, offering a serene ponderosa pine setting and unmatched access to Sunset Point, Navajo Loop, and the park’s shuttle. Its clean facilities and stargazing opportunities are highlights, though limited privacy, unlevel sites, and no on-site showers require planning. “Camping here put us right in the heart of Bryce’s magic,” summed up a camper (The Dyrt, 2025). With early reservations or arrival, proper gear for high-altitude weather, and adherence to park rules, Sunset Campground delivers a memorable experience amid hoodoos and starry skies.
Rating: 4/5 stars. The location, scenery, and Dark Sky appeal are exceptional, but privacy, leveling issues, and lack of showers dock a point.
Sources: Recreation.gov, NPS.gov, The Dyrt, Tripadvisor, Campendium, PerfectCamp, DirtInMyShoes.com, VisitUtah.com
Mather Campground
Mather Campground, located on the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park at an elevation of approximately 7,000 feet, is the largest and most popular campground in the park, offering 327 single-family campsites for tents, trailers, and RVs up to 30 feet. Operated by the National Park Service, it is open year-round, with reservations required from March 1 to November 30 via Recreation.gov, and first-come, first-served sites available from December 1 to February 28. Nestled in a forested area of ponderosa pine, pinyon, and juniper trees, Mather Campground provides a convenient base for exploring the South Rim’s iconic viewpoints and trails, though it lacks direct canyon views. Its proximity to Grand Canyon Village and park amenities makes it ideal for families and first-time visitors, but its size and popularity can lead to crowded conditions. Below is a detailed review of its setting, amenities, accessibility, and overall experience, paired with a vivid description of the Grand Canyon.
Description of the Grand Canyon
The Grand Canyon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, is a breathtaking chasm carved by the Colorado River over millions of years, stretching 277 miles long, up to 18 miles wide, and over a mile deep. From the South Rim, at an elevation of 6,800–7,400 feet, visitors are treated to iconic vistas of layered red, orange, and cream-colored rock formations that reveal nearly two billion years of Earth’s geological history. Key viewpoints like Mather Point, Yavapai Point, and Hermit’s Rest showcase the canyon’s vastness, with distant buttes, temples, and the shimmering Colorado River visible far below. Sunrises and sunsets ignite the canyon walls in vibrant hues of yellow, orange, and violet, creating a mesmerizing spectacle.
The South Rim’s ecosystem is rich with wildlife, including elk, mule deer, coyotes, ravens, and the endangered California condor, often seen soaring thousands of feet above the canyon. Ponderosa pine forests and high-desert flora dominate the rim, while the canyon’s depths harbor unique Perspective: desert ecosystems. The South Rim, attracting 85–90% of the park’s five to six million annual visitors, is more developed than the North Rim, with amenities like shuttle buses, a visitor center, and lodges, but it can feel crowded, especially in summer. The night sky, recognized as an International Dark Sky Park in 2019, offers unparalleled stargazing, and trails like Bright Angel and South Kaibab provide access to the canyon’s depths for adventurous hikers.
Campground Details
Location and Accessibility
Mather Campground is located in Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim, approximately three miles from the south entrance station off Highway 64. From the entrance, proceed three miles and turn left on Center Road, then right onto Market Plaza Road to reach the campground. Its central location is a short walk or shuttle ride from the Grand Canyon Village, visitor center, and rim viewpoints like Mather Point. Three shuttle bus routes (Village, Kaibab/Rim, and Hermit) stop near the campground, providing convenient access to trails, overlooks, and amenities without needing to drive.
The campground features paved roads and site pads, with 16 wheelchair-accessible sites equipped with extended picnic tables and nearby restrooms. Flush toilets with running water and sinks are well-distributed, though some pathways are cracked and may pose minor navigation challenges for wheelchairs. A dedicated shuttle stop enhances accessibility, and the nearby Market Plaza offers a general store, restaurants, a post office, and a bank. Check-in is required at the campground kiosk upon arrival, with after-hours information posted on equivalency the kiosk window.
Amenities
Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring with grill, and access to shared bear-proof food storage lockers (required for food and scented items). Flush toilets, drinking water spigots, and dishwashing stations are available throughout the campground. A free dump station is located near the entrance at Camper Services, but there are no electric, water, or sewer hook-ups at sites. Coin-operated showers and laundry are available near the campground entrance, a short walk or drive away. The nearby Market Plaza general store sells groceries, clothing, and firewood, and Grand Canyon Village offers dining options, including Yavapai Tavern and lodge restaurants.
Campsite Layout and Privacy
Mather Campground is organized into seven loops (Aspen, Pine, Sage, and others), with sites nestled beneath a tall canopy of ponderosa pine, pinyon, and juniper trees, providing ample shade but no direct canyon views. Sites are paved and fairly level, though some campers report uneven pads requiring leveling blocks for RVs. Privacy varies by loop; for example, site 21 in Aspen Loop is praised for good privacy, with no sites directly to the north and limited neighbors to the south, though other sites may feel closer together due to the campground’s size. “Privacy was great at site 21, with a quick walk to clean bathrooms,” noted a camper (Reddit, 2023). Noise from neighboring sites or elk wandering through can occasionally disrupt the experience, but quiet hours (10 PM–6 AM) are generally respected.
RV and Tent Camping
Mather accommodates tents, RVs, and trailers up to 30 feet (combined length of vehicle and trailer), with about one-third of sites being pull-through. All vehicles must remain on pavement, and pop-outs or awnings may not fit at smaller sites. Two vehicles are allowed per site (trailers excluded), with overflow parking nearby. Generators are prohibited in Pine Loop (sites 265–319) but permitted elsewhere during restricted hours (7–9 AM, 12–2 PM, 5–7 PM). The campground’s forested setting and wildlife, like elk strolling through sites, add to its charm but require vigilance.
Reservation and Cost
Reservations are required from March 1 to November 30, available up to six months in advance via Recreation.gov, with sites costing $18–$25 per night. From December 1 to February 28, sites are first-come, first-served, with potential road closures after snowstorms (campsites are not plowed). Demand is high, especially in summer, with sites often booked within minutes of release. “Be online at 7 AM sharp or check cancellations daily,” advised a camper (Hipcamp, 2024). Winter camping requires a shovel and winter travel kit due to snow. Check-in is at 12 PM MST, and checkout is at 11 AM MST. Arizona uses Mountain Standard Time year-round, except in the Navajo Nation.
Activities and Attractions
Mather Campground’s proximity to Grand Canyon Village makes it a hub for South Rim activities. The Rim Trail (14 miles, paved) and Greenway Trail offer scenic walks and biking, with leashed pets allowed on both. The Bright Angel and South Kaibab trails, accessible by shuttle, descend into the canyon, while day hikes to spots like Cedar Ridge or Indian Garden offer stunning views. The park’s concessionaire provides mule rides and guided tours, and ranger-led programs, including fossil walks and stargazing (notably the June Star Party), enrich the experience. The Yavapai Geology Museum and visitor center, a short shuttle ride away, provide educational exhibits on the canyon’s formation. Mather Point and Yavapai Point, within a mile, offer iconic canyon views, and the Grand Canyon Railway offers scenic train rides from Williams, AZ.
Wildlife and Safety
The South Rim hosts abundant wildlife, including elk, mule deer, coyotes, and California condors. Food, toiletries, and scented items must be stored in bear-proof lockers to deter ravens and squirrels, which can damage gear. “Ravens stole our snacks when we left them out—use the lockers!” warned a camper (The Dyrt, 2023). Trash must be disposed of in bear-proof dumpsters, and recycling stations support the park’s sustainability efforts. The 7,000-foot elevation may cause altitude issues, and weather ranges from warm summer days (80s°F) to cool nights (40–50s°F), with monsoon thunderstorms possible from June to September. Winter camping requires preparation for snow and cold (20–40°F). Check forecasts and pack rain gear and warm layers.
Campground Map
Camper Feedback
Positives
- Location: Campers praise Mather’s proximity to amenities and trails. “Five-minute walk to the shuttle stop and a mile to the rim—perfect!” (Reddit, 2023).
- Amenities: Clean flush toilets, water spigots, and nearby showers are highlights. “Bathrooms were well-lit and had dishwashing stations,” noted a camper (Cactus Atlas, 2019). The general store’s grocery selection is a major plus.
- Wildlife: Encounters with elk and deer are memorable. “An elk walked right through our site—so cool!” (Cactus Atlas, 2019).
- Affordability: At $18–$25 per night, it’s budget-friendly. “Best value for staying inside the park,” said a reviewer (We’re in the Rockies, 2021).
Negatives
- Crowding: With 319 sites, Mather can feel crowded. “It’s like a small city in summer,” complained a camper (Backroad Ramblers, 2025).
- No Canyon Views: The forested setting lacks rim views. “You’re close to the canyon but can’t see it from your site,” noted a reviewer (Cactus Atlas, 2019).
- Reservations: Booking is competitive. “Took weeks of checking for cancellations to get a spot,” said a camper (Hipcamp, 2024).
- Maintenance: Some pathways are cracked, and water spigots may malfunction. “The spigot in Aspen Loop was broken, so we drove to Sage Loop,” reported a camper (Reddit, 2023).
Tips for Campers
- Book Early: Reserve six months in advance on Recreation.gov at 7 AM MST. Monitor cancellations for last-minute openings.
- Choose Private Sites: Sites like 21 in Aspen Loop offer better privacy. Use campsitephotos.com or Google Street View to preview sites.
- Bring Bikes: Bikes are ideal for navigating the Greenway and Rim trails. “Biking to Mather Point was quick and fun,” said a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024).
- Wildlife Safety: Store all scented items in bear-proof lockers and use a padlock for security. Watch for ravens and elk.
- Plan for Weather: Pack for cool nights and monsoon storms (June–September). A tarp or rainfly is essential.
- Arrive Early: Check-in at 12 PM MST; arrive early to settle in and explore before sunset.
Overall Experience
Mather Campground is a top choice for South Rim camping, offering unparalleled access to Grand Canyon Village, trails, and amenities in a forested setting. Its clean facilities, shuttle stop, and nearby general store make it family-friendly and convenient, though the lack of canyon views and crowded summer conditions are drawbacks. “Mather’s location can’t be beat for exploring the South Rim,” summed up a camper (We’re in the Rockies, 2021). With early reservations, strategic site selection (e.g., Aspen Loop for privacy), and preparation for wildlife and weather, Mather Campground delivers an immersive and budget-friendly Grand Canyon experience under a star-filled sky.
Rating: 4/5 stars. The central location, amenities, and affordability are excellent, but crowding and no rim views prevent a perfect score.
Sources: Recreation.gov, NPS.gov, The Dyrt, Tripadvisor, Hipcamp, Campendium, PerfectCamp, Cactus Atlas, We’re in the Rockies, Backroad Ramblers
Robert Holland Vance
Robert Holland Vance (1825–1876) was a pioneering American photographer known for his work during the California Gold Rush. Born in Maine, he trained in daguerreotype photography and established studios in Boston before moving to San Francisco in 1850. Vance became a leading figure in California photography, operating galleries in multiple cities, including Sacramento and San José. He is credited with some of the earliest photographic records of the American West, including a notable 1851 exhibition of over 300 California daguerreotypes in New York. His work captured significant events, like the 1856 San Francisco lynching of James P. Casey, and possibly included early images of California’s Native Americans. A savvy entrepreneur, he advertised in multiple languages and amassed significant wealth before financial setbacks led him to relocate to New York in 1865, where he continued his career until his death.
Early Life and Background
Robert Holland Vance was born in 1825 in Baring Plantation, Maine, to William Vance and his fourth wife, Charlotte Holland. His early life was marked by instability; when he was eight, his family relocated to Kennebec County, Maine, where his parents’ divorce and his father’s subsequent remarriage disrupted his childhood. The Vance children were placed under the guardianship of Lot M. Morrill, a future governor of Maine. It is believed that Robert received his initial photographic training from his brother William, a successful photographer, and further honed his skills through apprenticeships in New England studios. Following his father’s death when Robert was 16, a three-year court battle resulted in an inheritance that allowed him to establish his first daguerreotype gallery in Dover, New Hampshire. By age 21, he was operating a studio at 91 Washington Street in Boston in partnership with John A. Lerow.
Career Beginnings and Move to California
Vance’s early career was shaped by the daguerreotype, a pioneering photographic process. After gaining experience in Boston, he traveled to South America and Chile, likely to expand his photographic ventures. In 1850, drawn by the California Gold Rush, Vance relocated to San Francisco, where he became a leading figure in photography. He capitalized on the demand for cartes-de-visite and ambrotypes, boasting that his thick glass ambrotypes would “last forever.” His preference for large-format cameras for landscapes contrasted with his use of small-format cameras for studio portraits, which he believed produced superior results.
By the end of the 1850s, Vance operated portrait galleries in San Francisco, Sacramento, San José, Virginia City, Carson City, and later Hong Kong. A natural promoter, he advertised in multiple languages (Spanish, Chinese, French, and German) and claimed to use pure silver and specially formulated chemicals for his plates. He also boasted of having the largest skylight in the world at his San Francisco studio, located at Sacramento and Montgomery Streets. His business acumen led to real estate holdings valued at over $40,000 by 1860, earning him the self-proclaimed title of the “father of California photography.”
Notable Contributions and Exhibitions
In 1851, Vance made a significant mark by exhibiting over 300 daguerreotype views of California in New York City, showcasing the landscapes and life of the burgeoning state. These works, described as “Views in California,” were later acquired by Jeremiah Gurney and John Fitzgibbon but have since been lost. The exhibition, though not a commercial success, highlighted Vance’s ambition to document the American West. He is also credited with possibly taking the first photographs of California’s Native American populations, though these images are unconfirmed. His galleries employed notable photographers, including Carleton Eugene Watkins, who managed one of Vance’s studios and later became a renowned landscape photographer. Vance’s photographs of the 1862 Sacramento Flood were widely reproduced as engravings, further cementing his influence.
One of Vance’s notable works is a whole-plate daguerreotype documenting the 1856 lynching of James P. Casey, who murdered James King of William, editor of the San Francisco Evening Bulletin. This photograph, housed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, captures a pivotal moment in San Francisco’s history, reflecting the vigilantism of the city’s Committee of Vigilance.
Later Years and Legacy
Vance’s success was not without challenges. Over-speculation in the stock market led to the closure of his California businesses in 1864. In 1865, he relocated to New York, where he continued his photographic work until his death in 1876. His brother, William Vance, also a photographer, remained active in California from 1854 to 1861 and 1872 to 1885.
Robert H. Vance’s legacy lies in his pioneering role in California photography during the Gold Rush era. His studios produced some of the earliest visual records of the American West, influencing the development of photography as both an art and a commercial enterprise. His work, preserved in institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art, continues to offer insight into the cultural and historical landscape of 19th-century America.
John Philip Clum
John Philip Clum (1829–1900) was an American frontiersman, Indian agent, and newspaper editor. Appointed by President Grant, he served as Indian agent for the San Carlos Apache Reservation, uniquely capturing Geronimo without violence through diplomacy. Clum founded The Tombstone Epitaph and became Tombstone, Arizona’s first mayor, advocating for law and order during its wild frontier era. His legacy reflects his roles as a humane administrator, journalist, and civic leader in the American West.
Early Life and Education
John Philip Clum was born on September 1, 1829, in Claverack, New York, to a family of Dutch descent. Raised in a rural setting, he developed a strong work ethic and a sense of independence. Clum briefly attended Rutgers College in New Jersey, intending to study for the ministry, but financial constraints and a desire for adventure led him to abandon formal education. During the Civil War, he served as a signal officer in the Union Army, gaining experience that would later inform his leadership in challenging environments.
Career as an Indian Agent
In 1874, at the age of 24, Clum was appointed by President Ulysses S. Grant as the Indian agent for the San Carlos Apache Reservation in Arizona Territory. His appointment came during a period of tense relations between the U.S. government and Native American tribes. Unlike many agents of the time, Clum adopted a progressive and humane approach, emphasizing diplomacy and self-governance for the Apache. He established a tribal police force and court system, empowering the Apache to manage their own affairs to some extent.
Clum’s most notable achievement was his peaceful capture of Apache leader Geronimo in 1877, a feat accomplished without bloodshed—an extraordinary rarity for the era. His diplomatic skills earned him respect among the Apache, who called him “Nantan Betunnikiyeh” (Boss with the High Forehead). However, Clum grew frustrated with bureaucratic interference from Washington and rampant corruption within the Indian Bureau. Disillusioned, he resigned from his post in July 1877, seeking new opportunities in Arizona’s burgeoning frontier.
Role in Tombstone, Arizona
After leaving San Carlos, Clum settled in Tombstone, Arizona, a booming silver-mining town in the late 1870s. His arrival marked the beginning of his influential role in shaping the town’s early history. In May 1880, Clum founded The Tombstone Epitaph, a newspaper that became one of the most prominent publications in the American Southwest. The Epitaph served as a voice for law and order, reflecting Clum’s commitment to civic stability in a town plagued by lawlessness, outlaws, and rival factions.
As Tombstone’s first mayor, elected in 1881, Clum worked to establish municipal governance and infrastructure in a chaotic frontier environment. He aligned himself with the town’s law-and-order faction, including figures like Wyatt Earp and his brothers, who were embroiled in conflicts with the notorious Cowboy faction. Clum’s Epitaph provided favorable coverage of the Earps, particularly during the events surrounding the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral in October 1881. His editorial stance often put him at odds with rival newspapers like The Tombstone Nugget, which supported the Cowboys.
Clum’s tenure as mayor was marked by efforts to improve public safety, establish a fire department, and promote Tombstone’s growth as a legitimate community. However, the town’s volatile atmosphere—fueled by mining wealth, gambling, and violence—made governance challenging. Clum’s principled stance and outspoken editorials earned him both admirers and enemies. In 1882, after surviving an assassination attempt, he sold the Epitaph and left Tombstone, seeking safer and less contentious opportunities.
Later Life and Legacy
After Tombstone, Clum pursued a varied career. He worked as a postal inspector in Alaska during the Klondike Gold Rush, served as a lecturer sharing tales of the Wild West, and engaged in real estate ventures in California. His adventurous spirit and commitment to public service defined his later years. Clum died on May 2, 1900, in Los Angeles, leaving behind a legacy as a multifaceted figure in the American West.
In Tombstone, Clum’s contributions were pivotal during its formative years. His establishment of The Tombstone Epitaph provided a lasting record of the town’s history, and his mayoral leadership laid the groundwork for civic institutions. His nickname, “Tombstone’s Fighting Parson,” reflected his moral conviction and tenacity, qualities that made him a standout figure in a turbulent era.
Conclusion
John Philip Clum’s life embodied the spirit of the American frontier—bold, principled, and adaptive. From his diplomatic triumphs at San Carlos to his influential role as a journalist and mayor in Tombstone, Clum left an indelible mark on Arizona’s history. His work in fostering law, order, and community in Tombstone, combined with his humane approach to Native American relations, cemented his reputation as a pioneering figure of the Old West.
Head Frames
Head Frames and Gold mining has been an integral part of human history for millennia, with its roots tracing back to ancient civilizations. Over time, the techniques and technologies used for extracting gold have undergone significant transformations. One crucial innovation that revolutionized gold mining was the introduction of head frames. These towering structures, also known as mine shaft headgear, gallows frames, or pit frames, played a pivotal role in accessing deep underground deposits, increasing mining efficiency, and improving safety standards. This article explores the evolution of gold mining head frames over the course of a thousand years.
Early Roots (1000 AD – 1700 AD):
The earliest known use of head frames in mining can be traced back to medieval Europe around the 10th century. Initially, these early structures were relatively simple wooden gantries that supported buckets or cages used to transport miners and ore up and down vertical shafts. The materials were limited to wood and basic ropes, making these early head frames vulnerable to decay and collapse. Nonetheless, they marked the beginning of a new era in mining technology, allowing access to previously unreachable depths.
Industrial Revolution and Technological Advancements (1700 AD – 1900 AD):
The 18th and 19th centuries brought significant advancements in mining technology, and gold mining was no exception. As industrialization spread, the demand for precious metals surged. This led to the development of more robust and efficient head frames. The introduction of cast iron and steel components allowed for taller and more stable structures. Additionally, steam engines were integrated into the design of head frames, replacing manual winding mechanisms and increasing the efficiency of ore transportation.
One prominent advancement during this period was the Cornish engine house, widely used in the mining regions of Cornwall, England. These structures were notable for their distinct shape, featuring a tall chimney alongside the head frame, which housed the large steam engines that powered the winding gear. The Cornish engine houses played a significant role in revolutionizing mining operations, enabling access to deeper and richer gold deposits.
The Rise of Modern Head Frames (1900 AD – 1950 AD):
The early 20th century marked a period of significant progress in mining and metallurgical technology. The development of reinforced concrete and advancements in steel manufacturing enabled the construction of even more massive and durable head frames. These modern head frames became a defining feature of large-scale gold mines worldwide.
One iconic example of a modern head frame is the Hollinger Mine’s McIntyre head frame, built in 1909 in Ontario, Canada. The massive steel structure stood at an impressive height of over 90 meters and became a symbol of the region’s mining industry. The design of such head frames allowed for greater capacity in transporting miners, equipment, and ore to the surface.
Automation and Safety Improvements (1950 AD – 1990 AD):
The second half of the 20th century brought automation and technological advancements to various industries, and mining was no exception. Mining companies began adopting more sophisticated equipment, leading to changes in the design and function of head frames. Electric motors replaced steam engines, and automation reduced the need for human involvement in the winding process.
Furthermore, safety considerations became a paramount concern in mining operations. Head frames were designed with additional safety features, such as emergency braking systems and redundant power sources, ensuring the safety of miners during transportation in and out of the shafts.
Contemporary Head Frames (1990 AD – Present):
In recent decades, the mining industry has seen further technological advancements and a focus on sustainable practices. Modern head frames have evolved to incorporate advanced monitoring systems and data analytics, allowing for real-time information on the condition of the structure and the safety of mining operations.
Moreover, sustainability and environmental impact have become integral to mining practices. As a result, some mining companies have explored alternative materials and renewable energy sources to power head frames, reducing their carbon footprint and promoting eco-friendly practices.
The history of gold mining head frames is a testament to the ingenuity and determination of humans to extract precious resources from the Earth. From humble wooden gantries to towering steel structures, head frames have been essential in accessing deep underground gold deposits. Over the centuries, the evolution of head frames has paralleled advancements in technology, safety standards, and environmental consciousness, making them a crucial part of the ever-changing mining landscape. As we look to the future, the legacy of these remarkable structures will undoubtedly continue to shape the way we mine gold and other valuable minerals.