Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley

Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood
Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley written by Brent Underwood

The siren song of Cerro Gordo, a desolate ghost town perched high above Death Valley, has seduced thousands since the 1800s, but few fell harder for it than Brent Underwood, who moved there in March of 2020, only to be immediately snowed in and trapped for weeks.

It had once been the largest silver mine in California. Over $500 million worth of ore was pulled from the miles of tunnels below the town. Butch Cassidy, Mark Twain, and other infamous characters of the American West were rumored to have stayed there. Newspapers reported a murder a week. But that was over 150 years ago.

Underwood bet his life savings—and his life—on this majestic, hardscrabble town that had broken its fair share of ambitious men and women. What followed were fires, floods, earthquakes, and perhaps strangest, fame. Ghost Town Living tells the story of a man against the elements, a forgotten historic place against the modern world, and a dream against all odds—one that has captured millions of followers around the world.

He came looking for a challenge different from the traditional 9-5 job but discovered something much more fulfilling—an undertaking that would call on all of himself and push him beyond what he knew he was capable of. In fact, to bring this abandoned town back to life, Brent had to learn a wealth of new self-sufficiency and problem-solving skills from many generous mentors.

Ghost Town Living is a thrilling read, but it’s also a call to action—to question our too-practical lives and instead seek adventure, build something original, redefine work, and embrace the unknown. It shows what it means to dedicate your life to something, to take a mighty swing at a crazy idea and, like the cardsharps who once haunted Cerro Gordo, go all in.

About the Author

Brent Underwood is the owner of Cerro Gordo, an original boomtown silver mine, established in 1865. He is also the creator of “GhostTownLiving” where he chronicles his adventures on YouTube. Brent currently lives on the mountain above Death Valley with no running water, seven cats, six goats, and at least one ghost.

Book Summary

TitleDeath Valley Gold Rush (Images of Ghost Town Living: Mining for Purpose and Chasing Dreams at the Edge of Death Valley
AuthorBrent Underwood
PublisherHarmony Publishing
Pages228 Pages

Aspen Campground

Aspen Campground, located in the Inyo National Forest near Rock Creek and Tom’s Place, California, is a small, high-altitude campground at approximately 8,100 feet elevation. Nestled along Rock Creek in the scenic Rock Creek Canyon of the Eastern Sierra Nevada, this 5-site campground offers a tranquil, intimate retreat surrounded by Jeffrey pines, vibrant aspen groves, and sagebrush, with dramatic granite peaks providing a stunning backdrop. Situated just 1 mile west of Tom’s Place, Aspen Campground is one of the closest campgrounds to Highway 395 in the Rock Creek area, making it highly accessible yet still immersed in nature. Its proximity to Rock Creek Lake, the John Muir Wilderness, and recreational opportunities like fishing and hiking makes it an ideal base for campers seeking a quiet escape in the Eastern Sierra.

Aspen Group Campground near Rock Creek Lake
Aspen Group Campground near Rock Creek Lake

Campsite Details

Aspen Campground features 5 single-family campsites, all available on a first-come, first-served basis with no reservations accepted. The sites are best suited for tents and very small RVs or trailers (maximum length 16 feet) due to the narrow, unpaved parking spurs and limited turnaround space. Each campsite includes a picnic table, a fire ring with grill, and a bear-proof food storage locker (typical size: 48″ x 30″ x 36″), essential due to active black bear activity in the area. Amenities are minimal, with no potable water or toilets provided directly at the campground; campers must rely on nearby facilities at Tom’s Place or other campgrounds like East Fork or Iris Meadow for water and restrooms. The sites are well-spaced and shaded by Jeffrey pines and aspens, with some offering creek-side views of Rock Creek’s clear, boulder-lined waters. The cost is $20 per night for a single site, reflecting the lack of amenities, with an additional $10 per night for extra vehicles. Holders of America the Beautiful Senior or Access Passes receive a 50% discount on single-site fees. Quiet hours are enforced from 10:00 PM to 6:00 AM, with a maximum stay of 7 days.

Recreation and Activities

Aspen Campground provides convenient access to a variety of outdoor activities in the Rock Creek area:

  • Fishing: Rock Creek, flowing adjacent to the campground, is a renowned trout fishing destination, stocked with rainbow, brown, and Alpers trout. Rock Creek Lake, approximately 8 miles up the road, offers additional fishing opportunities from the shore or small boats (electric motors only, 5 MPH limit).
  • Hiking and Backpacking: The Mosquito Flat Trailhead, about 9 miles up Rock Creek Road, provides access to the Little Lakes Valley in the John Muir Wilderness. This gentle trail leads to a series of glacially carved alpine lakes, such as Mack Lake, Heart Lake, and Gem Lakes, within a 2.5-mile hike, with stunning views of Bear Creek Spire, Mt. Dade, and Mt. Abbott. Other nearby trails, like the Tamarack Lakes Trail, cater to day hikers and backpackers.
  • Boating: Kayaking, canoeing, and stand-up paddleboarding are popular at Rock Creek Lake, though the water remains cold even in summer.
  • Wildlife Viewing and Stargazing: The area supports diverse wildlife, including black bears, mule deer, pikas, marmots, and bird species like mountain bluebirds and Clark’s nutcrackers. The high elevation and minimal light pollution make Aspen Campground ideal for stargazing.
  • Horseback Riding: Rock Creek Pack Station, near Rock Creek Lake, offers guided trail rides and fishing pack trips into the backcountry.
  • Photography and More: The vibrant aspen groves (golden in fall), summer wildflowers like iris and lupine, and dramatic granite peaks attract photographers. Mountain biking and rockhounding are also popular in the surrounding terrain.

Natural Setting

At 8,100 feet, Aspen Campground is situated in Rock Creek Canyon, surrounded by a mix of Jeffrey pines, aspens, and sagebrush, creating a high-desert ambiance with forested pockets. The aspen groves, for which the campground is named, turn a brilliant gold in the fall, offering a spectacular display that rivals New England’s autumn scenery. Rock Creek flows alongside the campground, its clear, cold waters cascading over boulders, providing a soothing soundscape. The surrounding Eastern Sierra Nevada features steep granite cliffs and towering peaks, offering breathtaking views, especially at sunrise and sunset. Summer daytime temperatures range from the 60s to 80s°F, with nights dropping to the 30s or 40s°F due to the high elevation. Visitors should be prepared for strong UV exposure and potential altitude sickness, with acclimatization possibly taking a day or two.

Logistics and Access

To reach Aspen Campground, take US Highway 395 to Tom’s Place, approximately 23 miles north of Bishop or 10 miles south of Mammoth Lakes. Turn west onto Rock Creek Lake Road and drive about 1 mile; the campground is on the right, just past Tom’s Place. The road is paved, but the campground’s dirt parking areas are narrow and best suited for smaller vehicles. The campground operates seasonally, typically from late May to late September (May 23 to September 28, 2025, weather permitting), with exact dates subject to snow conditions. For updates, contact the White Mountain Ranger District at (760) 873-2500. Cell service is spotty, with some carriers reporting weak reception (1-2 bars) due to the proximity to Highway 395, but most campers experience limited or no service, enhancing the off-the-grid atmosphere.

Nearby Amenities

Tom’s Place, just 1 mile away, features a rustic lodge with a market, café, and bar, offering convenient access to supplies, meals, and potable water. Rock Creek Lakes Resort, 8 miles up the road, provides a general store, a café serving breakfast and lunch, and cabin rentals. Nearby campgrounds, such as East Fork (1.5 miles away), Iris Meadow, Big Meadow, Upper Pine Grove, Lower Pine Grove, Palisades Group, and Rock Creek Lake, offer alternative camping options with additional amenities like toilets and water if needed.

Visitor Considerations

  • Bear Safety: Black bears are active, so all food, scented items, and trash must be stored in bear-proof lockers when not in use. Keeping a clean campsite is critical to avoid wildlife encounters.
  • High Altitude: At 8,100 feet, campers should stay hydrated, use sunscreen, and monitor for altitude sickness symptoms, particularly during the first day or two.
  • Limited Amenities: With no potable water or toilets on-site, campers must bring water or rely on nearby facilities at Tom’s Place or other campgrounds. Plan to pack out all trash if bins are unavailable.
  • Fire Regulations: Campfires are permitted in fire rings, but check for seasonal fire restrictions (Stage 1 Fire Restrictions may be in effect starting June 16, 2025). Firewood is available for purchase locally to prevent the spread of invasive pests. Generators are allowed during non-quiet hours (6:00 AM to 10:00 PM) with a three-hour maximum run time and must be attended.
  • Pets: Dogs are welcome but must be leashed and attended at all times, with a limit of two per site.
  • Site Selection: With only 5 sites, Aspen Campground fills quickly, especially on summer weekends. Arrive early to secure a spot, particularly for creek-side sites, which offer scenic views and the sound of flowing water. Forested sites provide more shade and seclusion.
  • Accessibility: The lack of on-site toilets and uneven terrain may pose challenges for those with mobility needs. Check nearby campgrounds like East Fork for accessible facilities.

Visitor Feedback

Campers praise Aspen Campground for its small size, quiet atmosphere, and proximity to Tom’s Place and Rock Creek. Reviews highlight the beauty of the aspen groves, the relaxing sound of the creek, and the campground’s accessibility, with one camper noting, “Aspen is perfect for a quick getaway with just enough seclusion but close to amenities at Tom’s Place.” The lack of on-site water and toilets is a common drawback, but campers appreciate the low cost and intimate setting. The campground’s small size and first-come, first-served policy make it competitive, so early arrival is recommended. The vibrant fall colors and fishing opportunities are frequently cited as highlights.

Conclusion

Aspen Campground is a charming, minimalist retreat in the heart of Rock Creek Canyon, offering a quiet and scenic camping experience for tent campers and small RV users. With its creek-side sites, vibrant aspen groves, and easy access to world-class fishing and hiking in the John Muir Wilderness, it’s an ideal destination for those seeking simplicity and natural beauty. Despite the lack of on-site amenities, its proximity to Tom’s Place and other campgrounds makes it convenient for short stays. Whether fishing in Rock Creek, hiking to alpine lakes, or stargazing under a pristine Sierra sky, Aspen Campground delivers an unforgettable outdoor experience in one of California’s most scenic regions.

Portuguese Joe Campground

Portuguese Joe Campground

Located just one mile west of Lone Pine, California, Portuguese Joe Campground (also known as “Portagee Joe”) is a serene, primitive campground nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Situated along a small, trout-filled creek fed by runoff from the Los Angeles Aqueduct, this Inyo County campground offers a peaceful base for exploring the surrounding natural wonders. The campground features 20 single-family campsites suitable for tents, trailers, and RVs up to 40 feet. Each site includes a picnic table, fire ring, and grate, with some sites offering partial shade from trees, providing relief during warm summer days.

Amenities are basic but functional, including potable water, two clean vault toilets, and trash/recycling facilities. There are no showers, hook-ups, or dump stations. A modern automated pay station accepts cash and credit cards for convenience, and reservations can be made via ReserveAmerica.com, with some sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. The campground is open year-round, weather permitting, with a fee of $14 per vehicle per night and $5 for additional vehicles.

Portuguese Joe is ideal for outdoor enthusiasts, offering easy access to hiking, fishing for trout in the creek (season: last Saturday in April to November 15, fishing license required for ages 16+), mountain biking, horseback riding, and stargazing under the clear, dark skies of the Eastern Sierra. The sites are relatively close together, offering limited privacy, but the tranquil setting and the gentle sound of the creek create a relaxing atmosphere. Reliable cell service is available for most carriers, and the nearby town of Lone Pine, just a mile away, provides restaurants, shops, and the Museum of Western Film History. As bear country, proper food storage is essential to ensure safety.

Alabama Hills

Just a short drive from Portuguese Joe Campground, the Alabama Hills is a breathtaking landscape of dramatic rock formations, natural arches, and sweeping desert vistas, set against the towering backdrop of the Sierra Nevada, including the iconic Mt. Whitney. Located on public lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), this area is renowned for its unique geological features, formed by millions of years of erosion, creating rounded boulders, spires, and labyrinthine pathways. The Alabama Hills is a haven for photographers, hikers, climbers, and filmmakers, famously serving as a backdrop for countless Western movies, TV shows, and modern films like Iron Man and Django Unchained.

Visitors can explore the area via numerous hiking trails, such as the Mobius Arch Loop Trail, a short, easy hike offering stunning views of the arch framing Mt. Whitney. The Alabama Hills is also a popular destination for bouldering and rock climbing, with routes suitable for all skill levels. Dispersed camping is permitted throughout the area (free, no facilities, 14-day limit), making it a great complement to a stay at Portuguese Joe Campground. The open landscape is perfect for stargazing, with minimal light pollution revealing a dazzling night sky. The Alabama Hills Scenic Area is easily accessible via Whitney Portal Road and Movie Road, with interpretive signs highlighting its film history and natural beauty.

Together, Portuguese Joe Campground and the Alabama Hills offer an unforgettable combination of rustic camping and access to one of California’s most iconic and photogenic landscapes, perfect for adventurers and nature lovers alike.

Jacob Waltz the “Dutchman”

Photograph take of Jacob Waltz after his arrival in New York.
Photograph take of Jacob Waltz after his arrival in New York.

Jacob Waltz, often referred to as “Dutchman,” was a German immigrant whose life became legendary due to his association with the fabled Lost Dutchman’s Gold Mine. “Dutchman” was a common American term for a German. “Dutch” was the the English cognate to the German demonym “Deutsch”.

Born on September 20, 1810, in the Kingdom of Württemberg, part of present-day Germany, Waltz grew up during a time of economic and social upheaval in Europe, prompting him to seek a better life in the United States.

Early Life and Immigration

In the 1830s, Jacob Waltz emigrated to the United States, settling initially in New York before moving to the Midwest. He worked various jobs, including farming and carpentry, skills that would serve him well in his later adventures. By the 1840s, Waltz had joined the wave of settlers heading westward, spurred by the promise of land and opportunity.

Journey West and Mining Ventures

Waltz’s life took a significant turn during the California Gold Rush of 1849. Like many others, he headed to California in search of fortune. Although records of his successes during this period are sparse, it’s clear that Waltz gained valuable experience in prospecting and mining.

In the 1860s, Waltz moved to the Arizona Territory, a region rich in mineral resources. He became a naturalized U.S. citizen in 1861 and established himself as a respected prospector and miner. Waltz was known to have worked claims in the Bradshaw Mountains and other areas, gradually building a modest reputation and some wealth.

Life in Phoenix and Relationships

By the 1870s, Waltz had established a homestead in Phoenix, where he lived modestly despite his alleged wealth. He owned a small farm along the Salt River, raising chickens and tending crops, which provided a cover for his prospecting activities. Waltz was known to be solitary but maintained a few key relationships. One significant connection was with Julia Thomas, a German-born woman who ran a bakery in Phoenix. Thomas cared for Waltz in his later years, particularly during his final illness, and some accounts suggest she hoped to inherit knowledge of the mine’s location.

Another figure in Waltz’s orbit was Richard J. Holmes, a local rancher and prospector who claimed to have known Waltz and received clues about the mine. Holmes’ account, passed down through his son Brownie and the controversial Holmes Manuscript, alleges Waltz entrusted him with 48 pounds of gold ore and vague directions to the mine on his deathbed. However, competing narratives, including those from Thomas and her associates, dispute Holmes’ claims, suggesting he may have taken the ore without permission.

The Legend of the Lost Dutchman’s Gold Mine

The most enduring and enigmatic chapter of Waltz’s life began in the late 19th century with his alleged discovery of a rich gold mine in the Superstition Mountains, east of Phoenix, Arizona. According to legend, Waltz found a vein of gold so abundant that it defied belief. However, he kept the location of the mine a closely guarded secret until his death.

Waltz’s reticence and the scant details he provided about the mine contributed to the mystery. He was reputedly evasive about the mine’s location, sharing cryptic clues and maps with only a few trusted friends. This secrecy fueled speculation and stories about the mine’s existence, especially after Waltz’s death.

Later Years and Death

Arizona Republican - Feb 20, 1891 newspaper article decribing flood with left Jacob Waltz homeless.
Arizona Republican – Feb 20, 1891 newspaper article decribing flood with left Jacob Waltz homeless.

In his later years, Waltz lived a relatively quiet life in Phoenix, Arizona. He never married and had no known children. Waltz’s health began to decline in the 1890s. On February 19th, 1891, the Salt River flooded to its highest known levels at the time, and forced Waltz, along with many other families, to flee his homestead. In 1891, he moved in with Julia Thomas, a local woman who had befriended him and cared for him during his illness.

Jacob Waltz died on October 25, 1891. On his deathbed, he purportedly revealed the location of the mine to Julia Thomas, but subsequent searches by Thomas and countless others have failed to definitively uncover the fabled treasure. At the time of his death, Waltz was in possession of 48 pounds to rich gold ore, said to be in a box under his bed. Questions about the source of this gold lead many to speculate of the existence of a rich lost gold mine.

Legacy

Jacob Waltz’s legacy is intertwined with the enduring legend of the Lost Dutchman’s Gold Mine. The tale has inspired countless expeditions, books, movies, and a mystique that continues to draw adventurers to the Superstition Mountains. While the exact truth of Waltz’s discovery remains elusive, his story symbolizes the enduring allure of hidden treasure and the American frontier spirit.

Waltz’s life and the legend of his mine highlight the era of American expansion and the human fascination with untold wealth. Despite the passage of time, the mystery of the Lost Dutchman’s Gold Mine ensures that Jacob Waltz’s name remains etched in the annals of American folklore.

Locations Associated with Jacob Waltz

Burial: Jacob Waltz, the legendary “Lost Dutchman” associated with the famous Lost Dutchman’s Mine in Arizona, is buried in Phoenix. He died on October 25, 1891, and his final resting place is in the Pioneer and Military Memorial Park, specifically in the City/Loosley Cemetery section, located in Phoenix, Arizona. This cemetery is part of a larger collection of seven historic cemeteries that date back to the early days of the city’s establishment.

Homestead: Jacob Waltz settles on a 160 acre homestead described as the North East quarter of Section 16, Township 1 North, Range 3 East. The Waltz property is bordered on the north by Buckeye Road. 16th Street served as the Eastern boundary. The western edge is marked by present day 12th Street and on the South by the Salt River bottomland.

Further Reading

The Curse of the Dutchman's Gold by Helen Corbin

The Curse of the Dutchman’s Gold by Helen Corbin

The Curse of the Dutchman's Gold by Helen Corbin Helen Corbin's The Curse of the Dutchman's Gold is the first book I have read on…

References

Thomas Boland

Thomas Boland, a notable figure in the history of Cerro Gordo, California.  ( April 7, 1835 - January 22, 1902 )
Thomas Boland, a notable figure in the history of Cerro Gordo, California. ( April 7, 1835 – January 22, 1902 )

Thomas Boland, a notable figure in the history of Cerro Gordo, California, was born on April 7, 1835, in County Cork, Ireland. Boland’s early life was marked by hardship and resilience, qualities that would serve him well throughout his career. He immigrated to the United States during the Great Irish Famine, seeking better opportunities and the chance to build a new life.

Upon arriving in America, Boland initially settled in New York City, where he worked various labor-intensive jobs. His strong work ethic and determination soon led him westward, drawn by the promise of the California Gold Rush in the early 1850s. Like many immigrants of his time, Boland was eager to seize the opportunities presented by the rapidly expanding American frontier.

In the mid-1860s, Boland made his way to the Inyo Mountains of California, where he became involved in the burgeoning mining industry. The discovery of rich silver and lead deposits at Cerro Gordo attracted miners and entrepreneurs from all over the country. Boland, with his extensive experience and keen business sense, quickly established himself as a prominent figure in the mining community.

Boland’s contributions to Cerro Gordo were multifaceted. As a mining engineer and manager, he played a crucial role in developing the infrastructure necessary for large-scale mining operations. His expertise in geology and mining techniques helped optimize the extraction processes, significantly increasing the productivity of the mines. Boland was instrumental in implementing innovative technologies and methods that enhanced the efficiency and safety of mining activities.

One of Boland’s most significant achievements was his involvement in the construction of the Cerro Gordo Tramway, an aerial tramway designed to transport ore from the mines to the nearby Owens Valley. This engineering marvel, which spanned several miles of rugged terrain, revolutionized the transportation of ore and greatly reduced the costs associated with its movement. The tramway’s success was a testament to Boland’s vision and ingenuity.

In addition to his technical contributions, Boland was known for his leadership and commitment to the well-being of the mining community. He advocated for better working conditions, fair wages, and safety measures for the miners, earning their respect and loyalty. Boland’s efforts to improve living conditions in Cerro Gordo included the establishment of housing, schools, and healthcare facilities, which helped create a more stable and prosperous community.

Thomas Boland’s impact on Cerro Gordo extended beyond his lifetime. His pioneering spirit and dedication to innovation set a standard for future mining operations in the region. Boland’s legacy is remembered not only through his technical achievements but also through his commitment to the welfare of the people who lived and worked in Cerro Gordo.

Boland passed away on January 22, 1902, leaving behind a legacy of industrial progress and community development. His contributions to Cerro Gordo are a testament to the transformative power of hard work, innovation, and a steadfast commitment to improving the lives of others. Today, Thomas Boland is celebrated as one of the key figures who helped shape the history and success of Cerro Gordo during its most prosperous years.