Eastern Sierras, Fall 2002

The Merced River flowing through Yosemite Valley.
The Merced River flowing through Yosemite Valley.

In late October I managed to get away from the office again, and again headed to the High Sierras. It is not a difficult decision to travel to the stomping grounds of Ansel Adams, Galen Rowell, and John Muir which is located just over 250 miles from my house. My brother and I again, over packed my Jeep, and set off for the Eastern Sierras early on a Saturday morning. Just over 6 hours later, we pulled into our camping site at Silver Lake campground, in the June Lake Loop.

After a very cold nights sleep, we took a short drive up to Mono Lake to a short hike to the Mono Lake Fissures, and a little bird watching. The Mono Lake fissures are found on Black Point and just of short hike over some steep and sandy terrain. No trails to be found, but a fun adventure none the less. My brother the Field Biologist went crazy over the bird populations to be found in the inland dead sea of California. After a week listening to my brother, I must admit that I am starting to develop an appreciation for our feathered friends. Mono Lake is a wonderful place for birding, as it is a major food source, and is the breeding ground for 80 – 90% of the California Gull population depending upon whom you believe.

Monday morning found another cold morning for us. We packed up our gear, and headed for a short drive over the Tioga Pass, and into Yosemite Valley. I had visited the valley the previous year, and vowed to return quickly. My first afternoon in the valley was spent exploring the Merced River, and composing reflections of Half Dome.

After a noisy nights sleep, we began our days activities. On the short list we wanted to visit the Mariposa Grove, and Glacier Point. The Mariposa Grove is a ‘small’ grove of Giant California Redwood trees. Small is a relative term, when you are describing the largest living things on the planet, but I personally was expecting huge numbers of these large trees. The scale of these trees is just amazing, and to compare them to any other thing, does not do them justice. After a quick 4 miles hike among the Giants, we drove to Glacier Point for the late afternoon light.

Glacier Point could quite frankly summarize the image of Yosemite. On on high granite pedestal, Glacier Point projects into the middle of the valley, and from a single location, one can see Yosemite Falls, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, North Dome, and of coarse the ever noble Half Dome. I knew what to expect when we pulled into the parking lot and took the short hike to the point, but to describe this place with words would be pointless for me. I choose to narrative this place 1000 words at a time. As the sun dropped, along with the temperature, the light on the Half Dome, yellowed and warmed the timeless granite. Just after sun down, the view of Hale Dome took a magnificent metamorphosis. The sun light shown turn the length of Yosemite Valley, through the narrow valley door and shown a wonderful pink alpen glow against the pastel blue sky!

The next day, we took a bit of a hiatus, and just wondered around the valley floor. A quick stop at the Visitor Center, and store accompanied a walk down the Merced River towards Mirror Lake.

Our time in the Yosemite Valley was unfortunately over, we headed back over Tioga Pass, and met up with a friend on Convict Lake just South of Mammoth Mountain. A small lake nestled in the glacier carved val lies of the sierra, Convict lake is a prime location for fishing, and my brother quickly caught three trout just feet from our campsite. We headed towards Mammoth to pick up much needed supplies.

We we started the next day, our newly enlarged party headed towards the Minaret Wilderness, Devil’s Postpile National Monument, and the San Joaquin river valley. On our daily hike, we jumped into the Ansel Adams Wilderness and dropped over to Rainbow Falls.

On our final full day, we again drove to Mono Lake as part of our show and tell to my friend. We spent the afternoon soaking in the Hot Springs just south of Mammoth.

** I took over 7 rolls of film on this trip. Unfortunately, during development the lab destroyed all of the images that I worked so hard to capture. I have only memories of this wonderful trip, and my galleries will not grow. **

Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve, Spring 2003

After a surprise day off, I another chance to visit the western end of Antelope Valley to play around with my camera at the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve. I was not as excited this time around as the flower bloom was intense, but not nearly as spectacular just a few days before. But, a day out is a day out, and I was going to enjoy it. Nature was against us on this day, we had beautiful light, nice cloud layer to diffuse some light, and a 25 mph breeze that would just not let up all day.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.
A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.

My goal this spring was to get a nice flower shot that I would desire to blow up as a photograph, however, these conditions were not condusive towards this task and a true exercise in patience. It looks likely that I will not reach this goal this season, the flowers bloom has begun to wane, and my only hope appears to be in the foothills of the eastern sierras in a few weeks.

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Red Rock Canyon, CA Winter 2004

In the winter of 2004, I decided to purchase a 4×5 camera. The reasons are too many to go into in this report. So, in February my brother and I jumped into my Jeep and drove North towards Red Rock Canyon about 2 hours away. It was a beautiful day, and we almost made it all the way to Red Rock Canyon before my Jeep turned up a little 4×4 trail leading up to an old mining district.

The hike in this area was amazing. A short hike from the car, and it seemed we traveled years back in time as we hiked up the narrow valley towards the mine opening. We scouted the area before I hiked back down to the mine opening that grabbed my attention. The dark sun dried wood held back the collapse of the purple and yellow rock piled high above.

This simple black and white polaroid was my first large format taken in the wilderness. I was amazed when I opened up the lens and peered through the ground glass for the first time. My imagination soared when I realized I was using equipment very similar to the great photographer of the past. Looking at an abandon mine through the glass of a camera that will be abandoned by technology seemed poetic. It took my 15 minutes to compose, re meter, compose, double-check and finally press the cable release to capture this image, but the time flew by in my world. The camera and subject matter may be a scene from the past, but I think that this image represents my future.

Death Valley, Spring 2002

Death Valley was a bit different from my experience last year. Last year, we explored the northern valley and drove over 250 miles per day. This year our goal was to see the central valley. My usual plan is to explore during the day, and scout locations. When the sun’s rays grow long in the afternoon, I am quickly off to take photos

The trip started with a short drive over to the ghost town of Skidoo for various mine exploring. The town itself is long since gone but, the the hills remain riddle with hundreds of mines, tailings, and tunnels. The only structure that remains is the mill, but the structure is now marked unstable, and explorers are discouraged from entering the site.

Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

Later on this day, I took a hike out into the Dunes. I found it very  frustrating to see the huge volume of tracks from previous hikers and explorers. The majority of whom, seemed determined to continually stand or walk along the fragile ridges of the wind swept dunes. Compost ion proved to be a nightmare, and I did not want to bring home an image with foot prints in it. I continued on my way, dune after dune after dune. I found my subject on the far end of the dunes. Over one more ridge and the sand turned back into the wasteland that is the central valley floor. The image I saw in my head, was a low angle shot that pushed the depth of field, with a shallow sweeping curve of the dune ridge created by the strong desert winds. I did not get the exact composition that I was looking for, but the results have there own charm. I the failing desert light, I headed back across the dunes with my brother and arrived in camp well after sundown.

The next day in the valley typified the valley for me. In the morning we headed off for Darwin Falls, and I had some success. Later in the day, we encountered a violent wind storm. Sand rose hundreds of feet into the air, as I watched my chances for more work in the dunes vanish under the shifting sands. I might risk my self out in that storm, but I wouldn’t dare sand blast my camera lens in these harsh conditions. I spent the evening light enjoying a cocktail as I watch the sunset. I snapped a few of the sunset, but the light failed to turn, and I only really capture a far off desert sand storm.

We awoke the final day, and as the sun peaked over the horizon, the now familiar winds began again with a vengeance. Our camp was pummeled under the onslaught, as we watched as another campers tent gently flew overhead at an altitude of about 75 feet, and take off across the desert at high speeds. The majority of the day was spent traveling around the main valley hot sports. Even in early April, we could feel the heat of this place.

Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park
Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park

As the day waned, my brother and I drove towards the yellow hills of Zabriskie Point. Our friend the wind continued to follow us, and fellow visitors laughed a bit when they say me composing image with my camera, and putting all of the 6’1″ frame on top of the tripod to pin the camera to the earth to prevent distortion caused by the wind. It was under these conditions that I missed my first great shot. We by car in the hills above Zabriskie Point. While driving I took a quick glance in the side mirror and saw the most brilliant golden hue I have ever seen. My brother must have thought me insane as I slammed on the breaks, turned off the road, and grabbed my camera. I took off running. I needed some high ground to compose my shot. The late afternoon sun managed to piece the blackening ski, and found the yellow hills. The resulting color and light can never be described. Unfortunately, I was 5 seconds too late. As I opened the shutter, the intensity of light failed along with my opportunity.

Death Valley, Spring 2001

Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

This was my first photographic trip since purchasing my new camera, and getting back into the hobby. My companions included my father, brother and a family friend. Our original plan was to have an unstructured excursion into the back country of the Death Valley. Armed with two 4×4’s we figured we could go most places that we wanted to visit. We did not know where we would end up on any one night, and would plan the day as we went.

We took off from LA Wednesday night and drove up to Lone Pine to get an early start on Thursday. We camped overnight in the foothills of Mt. Whitney.

Thursday – March 8th

We awoke early in the morning, broke camp and drove into Lone Line for Breakfast. Then we proceeded North on 395 towards Big Pine. After a customary stop to see the elk herd, we continued north until we started East on the 168. Our rough idea was to run down Saline Valley on this day. However, a snow pack did not allow us to make the turn off. Although we did have the 4 by’s, our idea to have them get us out of trouble, and not into trouble, so we made our first plan change here. So we altered plans and headed off towards the Eureka Sand Dunes for lunch. After exploring the sand dunes for a while, we back tracked a few miles and headed off towards Crankshaft Crossing.

At Crankshaft Crossing, we headed north to explore the area a bit. After several hours, and a few miles, we soon realized that one of our navigators made a mistake, and could be get us back to the main road. After a few stops to reconnoiter, we found our selves back on the main road, and headed towards the Mesquite Springs camp ground for the night and a few well earned bottles of beer.

Friday – March 9th

Rhyolite, Nevada 1909
Rhyolite, Nevada 1909

We again packed up our entire camp and head off towards the Death Valley itself. We stopped for a quick visit at the Keene Wonder Mine. After the mine stop, we headed east Ryolite, but made the turn off towards Leadfield and Titus Canyon. We spent hours driving down Titus Canyon and exploring Leadfield and the various mines in the area. Titus Canyon is truly impressive, but a rain shower forced us down the canyon a bit faster than we would have liked.

After our egress from Titus Canyon, we headed north for a late lunch at Scotty’s Castle. On a round about trip back to Mesquite Springs, we stopped by Ubehebe Crater.

Saturday – March 10th

We awoke again early, and after lunch, headed out towards Race Track valley. I have never been to the race track, but after exploring several mines on the way found it a truly impressive structure. After lunch we then headed out towards the main valley, but no before some foolishness. Allow me to explain.

My father loves toys, but doesn’t necessarily admit it. So, today he finds his son out in Death Valley with a new camera. When I purchased the camera, the main feedback with I received from my father was to question whether or not I “needed” an auto-focus SLR with film advance at 3.5 fps. He did not disagree with me on my choice, he just questioned it a bit and thought that it would be a great way for me to “waste” film. So, here we are, out in the middle of no where in Death Valley, and my dad wants to play with my camera. So, when I hand it to him, he asks me to put the camera into auto film advance, predictive auto-focus, etc. While I drive trough a giant puddle on the road next to the race track by dad proceeds to shoot 18 frames on film in about 5 seconds! He later said that it was OK and still correct since HE was wasting MY film.

We drove all the way down down to the Artist’s palette, Devils Golf course, and a few other locations. We finally header out to Lone Pine to enjoy an easy drive home on Sunday.

Sunday – March 11th

We drove down to Lone Pine to gas up to our trip down 395. After gassing up, my brother’s Toyota would start. Although a great truck, it choose this day to act up and would not start. After diagnosing the problem, my brother and I drove up to Bishop to purchase the $17 part and then back. Once we got back, we were merrily heading down the valley and posted highway speeds.

We had a great time on the trip, but made a few mistakes. The photographing had some great opportunities, but I failed to capture an image that I am cruelly happy with. I have posted several of them here for narrative purposes.