Ashford Mill Site

Ashford Mill Site is a historic mining ruin located in Death Valley National Park, California. It represents one of the many short-lived gold mining operations that dotted the region during the early 20th century, embodying the boom-and-bust cycles typical of desert prospecting in one of the harshest environments in North America.

Ashford Mill Ruins Sign.  Photo by James L Rathbun
Ashford Mill Ruins Sign. Photo by James L Rathbun

Location and Setting

The site lies on the valley floor along Badwater Road (California State Route 178), approximately 28 miles (45 km) west of the Shoshone entrance to the park. The associated Ashford Mine (also known as the Golden Treasure Mine) is located about 5 miles (8 km) east in the Black Mountains, roughly 3,500 feet (1,067 m) higher in elevation within Ashford Canyon. The mill was strategically placed on the valley floor to process ore trucked down from the mine. Today, visitors find concrete foundations, scattered debris from machinery, and the crumbling walls of a former office building. The site includes parking, picnic tables, scenic viewpoints, and vault toilets. Nearby Shoreline Butte displays ancient wave-cut terraces from the prehistoric Lake Manly.

Discovery and Claim Acquisition (1907–1910)

In January 1907, prospector Harold J. Ashford arrived in the Death Valley region, drawn by recent gold strikes at the nearby Desert Hound Mine. He noticed that the Keys Gold Mining Company had failed to perform required assessment work on several claims in the Black Mountains. Ashford relocated (re-staked) the claims under mining law and began working them. The Keys company did not discover the issue for nearly two years. In January 1910, they sued to reclaim the property, but a judge ruled in Ashford’s favor, securing title for him and his brothers, Henry and Lewis. The Ashfords worked the mine intermittently from 1910 to 1914 but achieved only modest results.

Ashford Mill, Death Valley National Park. Photo by James L Rathbun
Ashford Mill, Death Valley National Park. Photo by James L Rathbun

Development and Mill Construction (1914–1915)

In November 1914, the Ashford brothers leased the mine to wealthy Los Angeles residents B.W. McCausland and his son Ross. Under their leadership, the operation expanded dramatically. They drove a 180-foot tunnel, developed approximately 2,000 feet of underground workings, and employed up to 28 men at peak. The lessees invested over $125,000 in infrastructure, including construction of a 40-ton-capacity mill on the valley floor in 1915. The mill featured a jaw crusher, a 10-foot Lane mill, a Wilfley concentrating table, and a Diester slime table. Ore was trucked five miles down the mountain for processing before shipment to a smelter. The mill became operational by late August 1915. A popular (but unverified) local legend claims that a double shipment of cement arrived during construction; rather than return the excess, the McCauslands used it to build the durable concrete foundations and office that still stand today.

Operations, Decline, and Initial Closure (1915)

Despite extracting an estimated $100,000 worth of gold ore, the operation proved unprofitable. The ore grade was too low to cover the enormous costs of extraction, processing, and transportation across the remote desert terrain. Operations ceased in September 1915, only weeks after the mill opened. The McCauslands withheld lease payments, leading the Ashfords to file a lawsuit that yielded no compensation. The mill and mine then lay idle for more than a decade.

Intermittent Later Activity (1926–1941)

Brief revivals occurred over the following years. In 1926, four men worked the mine briefly before abandoning it again. In 1935, the Ashfords leased the property to Golden Treasure Mines, Inc., which reopened the mine and shipped high-grade ore to Shoshone via the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad. High trucking costs limited profitability; total production through 1938 was valued at no more than $18,000. The Ashfords briefly operated the mine themselves in 1938, shipping 38 tons of ore. Later that year they leased it to Bernard Granville and Associates of Los Angeles, who installed a short aerial tramway to consolidate ore from scattered workings. The operation employed about 10 men but produced no recorded shipments and ceased by 1941. The Ashfords retained ownership but performed no further significant work. Over its entire history (1910–1941), the mine yielded just enough gold to sustain the brothers in basic supplies and legal fees.

Legends, Myths, and Cultural Significance

Early tourists were drawn by colorful legends surrounding the mine, including a story that the Ashford brothers sold it for $50,000 to a Hungarian count, who then resold it to B.W. McCausland for $105,000. An old wooden interpretive sign at the site perpetuated this tale for decades. However, National Park Service records describe these stories as more intriguing than factual. The site nonetheless symbolizes the persistent yet often futile quest for riches in Death Valley’s extreme environment.

Abandonment and Preservation

The mill was never reopened after 1915; its wooden walls, windows, and most machinery were removed or decayed over time, leaving only the concrete foundation and debris. The nearby office building survives as crumbling concrete ruins. The Ashford Mill Site was incorporated into Death Valley National Monument (later National Park) and is preserved today as a historic resource. The mine site higher in the canyon contains collapsed shacks, bunkhouses, headframes, and tramway remnants from the 1930s–1940s era, accessible via a strenuous hike up Ashford Canyon (the old road is washed out).

Visiting the Site Today

The Ashford Mill Site remains a popular roadside stop along Badwater Road. A short walk reveals the ruins and interpretive signage (the older legend-bearing sign may still be present). It offers a poignant reminder of the human ambition and environmental challenges that defined early 20th-century mining in the American Southwest. The site is open year-round, though summer heat and flash-flood risks in the canyon require caution. No artifacts should be disturbed, as the area is protected within the national park.

Desert Five-Spot (Eremalche rotundifolia)


The Desert Five-Spot (Eremalche rotundifolia) is a striking annual wildflower commonly observed in Death Valley National Park, particularly during favorable bloom years following sufficient winter rainfall.

Desert Five-Spot (Eremalche rotundifolia) - Photo by James L Rathbun
Desert Five-Spot (Eremalche rotundifolia) – Photo by James L Rathbun

Scientific Taxonomy

  • Kingdom: Plantae
  • Phylum: Tracheophyta (vascular plants)
  • Class: Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
  • Order: Malvales
  • Family: Malvaceae (mallow family, which includes hibiscus and cotton)
  • Genus: Eremalche
  • Species: Eremalche rotundifolia (A. Gray) Greene

This species is a dicotyledonous annual herb native to desert regions.

Description

The desert five-spot is a low-growing annual herb typically reaching 8–60 cm (3–24 inches) in height. It has an erect, sparsely branched stem (often simple or branched only at the base) covered in bristly hairs; stems are frequently reddish-brown. The leaves are distinctive: rounded to kidney-shaped (reniform), 1.5–6 cm broad, with toothed or crenate margins, and borne on long petioles. Leaves are green (sometimes with reddish phases) and covered in short bristly hairs.

The most striking feature is the flower: bisexual, cup- to globe-shaped, with five overlapping petals 15–30 mm long. Petals are rose-pink to lilac or purplish-pink, each featuring a prominent dark red-to-purple spot at the base that serves as a nectar guide for pollinators. When fully open, the petals curve slightly inward, forming a nearly spherical “lantern” shape (hence the occasional nickname “Chinese lantern flower”). The center reveals a ring of light pink stigmas surrounding smaller stamens. The calyx has 5 lobes, and three small bractlets subtend it. After flowering, the plant produces a schizocarp fruit that splits into 25–35 wafer-like segments.

Note on identification: Do not confuse it with the unrelated “five-spot” (Nemophila maculata), a white-flowered plant of the Sierra Nevada and foothills with purple spots at the petal tips.

Blooming Period and Behavior

The beautiful and delicate flower of the Desert Five Spot Flower.  - Photo by James L Rathbun
The beautiful and delicate flower of the Desert Five Spot Flower. – Photo by James L Rathbun

Flowering occurs primarily from March to May, with peak displays in the lower desert elevations from mid-February through mid-April, depending on winter rainfall. In Death Valley National Park, it is a signature wildflower during “superbloom” years (such as the notable events following heavy rains).

The flowers exhibit daily nyctinastic movement: they open in the morning (or midday) to reveal the vivid red spots and close at night or late afternoon. Leaves also show diurnal movement to optimize sunlight exposure. The red basal spots on each petal function as “runways” directing bees and other insects to the nectar at the flower base, aiding pollination. The plant thrives in years with adequate winter precipitation and is one of the more sought-after desert wildflowers for its vivid color contrast against the arid landscape.

Range and Distribution

Eremalche rotundifolia is native to the Mojave Desert and Colorado Desert (part of the Sonoran Desert region) in the southwestern United States and northwestern Mexico. It occurs in southeastern California (including Death Valley National Park and Anza-Borrego Desert State Park), southern Nevada, western Arizona, and extends slightly into Utah. In California it is found primarily in the Desert bioregion (excluding the high Desert Mountains). Elevation range is approximately -50 to 1,500 m (-164 to 4,921 ft), though it is most common between 50 and 1,200 m.

The closed flower of the Desert Five Spot Flower.  Photo by James L Rathbun
The closed flower of the Desert Five Spot Flower. Photo by James L Rathbun

Habitat and Ecology

This species prefers open, sunny sites in dry desert scrub, desert flats, sandy or rocky washes, alluvial fans, and open stony areas. It grows best in fast-draining, gravelly alkaline soils and is frequently associated with creosote bush scrub communities. In Death Valley National Park it appears on lower-elevation alluvial fans, foothills, and along roadsides (e.g., Badwater Road areas) following sufficient winter rains.

As an annual, it completes its life cycle quickly after winter rains, producing abundant seeds that remain dormant in the soil until the next favorable season. It provides nectar for native bees and supports larvae of certain butterflies and skippers (including confirmed hosts for Northern White-Skipper and Common Checkered-Skipper).

The desert five-spot is a beautiful and iconic Mojave Desert wildflower, particularly celebrated in Death Valley for its glowing pink blooms and striking red-spotted “lantern” flowers during spring displays. Its presence is highly dependent on winter precipitation, making it a highlight of rare superbloom events.

Colonel Sherman Stevens

Colonel Sherman Stevens (1810–1887) was a prominent 19th-century American entrepreneur, miner, and businessman whose ventures significantly supported the booming silver mining operations at Cerro Gordo, one of California’s most productive silver-lead mining districts in the Inyo Mountains during the 1870s.

Sherman Stevens - https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/236034222/sherman-stevens/
Sherman Stevens –
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/236034222/sherman-stevens/

Born in New York and raised in Michigan, Stevens initially built wealth through banking, mining, and other enterprises in the Midwest. He later ventured westward, drawn by opportunities in California’s mining frontiers. Often addressed as “Colonel” (a title likely honorary or militia-related, common in the era for prominent figures), he became known for his resourceful and ambitious character.

In the early 1870s, the Cerro Gordo Mines—discovered in 1865 and peaking in production after 1869 under figures like Victor Beaudry and Mortimer Belshaw—faced a critical challenge. The surrounding region had been stripped of local timber and wood resources, which were essential for two main purposes: structural timbers to shore up mine shafts and tunnels, and charcoal to fuel smelters that refined silver-lead ores. Without affordable fuel and supports, operations risked slowing or halting, threatening the prosperity of Cerro Gordo, nearby Swansea, and Darwin.

Recognizing a lucrative niche, Stevens saw greater profit in supplying the mines rather than mining silver directly. In June 1873, he founded the Inyo Lumber & Coal Company and established a major operation in Cottonwood Canyon (Creek) high in the Sierra Nevada Mountains (around 9,500 feet elevation), west of Owens Lake. He constructed a sawmill there to harvest pine timber. A sophisticated flume system transported the cut lumber down to the valley floor, connecting to the Los Angeles bullion road.

The wood served dual roles:

  • Much became mine timbers and building materials hauled to Cerro Gordo.
  • The remainder was processed into charcoal in large adobe Cottonwood Charcoal Kilns (near present-day Cartago, California). These kilns, now a California Historical Landmark (#537), converted the wood efficiently for smelter use.

The charcoal was transported to Stevens’ Wharf on Owens Lake, loaded onto the steamer Bessie Brady (one of the lake’s iconic vessels), ferried across the water, and then wagon-freighted up the steep haul road to Cerro Gordo. This supply chain kept the mines operational during their peak years, when Cerro Gordo produced immense wealth (contributing to the growth of Los Angeles as a shipping and commercial hub).

1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA. This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.
1950 Painting by William McKeever of the Bessie Brady is on display at the Eastern California Museum in Independence, CA. This image probably does not resemble the actual appearance of the vessel.

Stevens invested heavily—by 1877, he had spent around $64,500 (a substantial sum)—building infrastructure including the mill, flume, kilns, and transport network. His enterprise supplied fuel and timber to Cerro Gordo’s smelters and shafts, sustaining production when local resources were exhausted.

His success was tied to the mining boom’s duration. When Cerro Gordo and Darwin declined sharply by around 1878 (due to falling ore grades, water issues, and market shifts), demand collapsed. Stevens lost nearly his entire fortune in the bust.

He passed away in 1887. Today, remnants like the Cottonwood Charcoal Kilns preserve his legacy, commemorating how entrepreneurs like Stevens enabled remote mining camps to thrive in the harsh desert environment of the Owens Valley and Inyo Mountains.

Stevens exemplified the opportunistic spirit of the American West—shifting from direct mining to infrastructure support for greater stability and profit, while ultimately sharing the risks of boom-and-bust cycles.

Panamint City California – Inyo County Ghost Town

Panamint City is one of the most legendary ghost towns in the Panamint Range of Death Valley National Park, California. Perched high in Surprise Canyon at an elevation of around 6,000–6,500 feet (about 1,800–2,000 m), it was once a notorious silver boomtown known for its lawlessness, rapid rise, and swift decline. Today, the site lies in a remote, rugged wilderness area within the park (though some remnants are on private inholdings or patented claims).

Panamint City California - 1875
Panamint City California – 1875

Historical Background and Founding (1872–1873)

The story of Panamint City begins in late 1872 amid the chaotic aftermath of earlier California gold and silver rushes. Prospectors William L. Kennedy, Robert Polk Stewart, and Richard C. Jacobs (some accounts name them as William Ledlie Kennedy et al.) were searching for the fabled Lost Gunsight Mine (a legendary lost gold deposit tied to early Death Valley lore) when they stumbled upon rich silver outcrops in Surprise Canyon. The canyon’s isolation had long made it a favorite hideout for outlaws evading law enforcement after stagecoach robberies and other crimes.

When the prospectors returned to stake formal claims, a gang of six bandits (who had followed them) forced a partnership to share in the profits—despite the outlaws being wanted for crimes like robbing a Wells Fargo stage of $12,000. This unlikely alliance marked the birth of the Panamint Mining District, officially formed in February 1873. Ore samples sent to Los Angeles attracted attention, and word spread quickly.

Senator John Percival Jones
Senator John Percival Jones

Boom Period (1873–1875)

The real boom ignited when Nevada’s “Silver Senators”—John P. Jones and William M. Stewart (prominent Comstock Lode investors)—learned of the discoveries. They organized the Panamint Mining Company with $2 million in capital stock and bought up major claims, injecting serious investment. By late 1874, Panamint City exploded into a full-fledged town:

  • Population peaked at around 1,500–2,000 residents, including miners, merchants, saloonkeepers, prostitutes, gamblers, and outlaws.
  • The main street stretched nearly one mile up the narrow canyon, lined with wooden buildings: hotels, restaurants, stores, assay offices, two banks, a post office, and the Panamint News newspaper.
  • Saloons and a red-light district thrived, contributing to the town’s reputation as one of the “toughest, rawest, most hard-boiled little hellholes” in the West.
  • Lawlessness was rampant—reports claim over 50 murders in the first few years, with shootouts, claim-jumping, and vigilante justice common. Wells Fargo refused to operate a stage line due to the banditry; instead, bullion was cast into heavy 400-pound cubes to deter theft during transport.
  • Key mines included the Wyoming Mine, Wonder Mine, and others producing high-grade silver ore (some assays showed values in the thousands of dollars per ton), along with copper and lesser gold.

The town even inspired ambitious infrastructure plans, such as Senator Jones’ short-lived railroad project from Santa Monica (which never fully materialized beyond initial segments).

William M. Stewart. Photo by Matthew Brady
William M. Stewart. Photo by Matthew Brady

Decline and Abandonment (1875–1877)

The bust came as quickly as the boom. By late 1875, the richest surface and near-surface ore bodies in the major mines began depleting rapidly. Veins pinched out or became too low-grade to process profitably with 1870s technology. Investors pulled out, and production plummeted.

A catastrophic flash flood in 1876 roared down Surprise Canyon, washing away much of the lower town, destroying buildings, roads, and equipment. This disaster accelerated the exodus. By 1877, major operations shut down entirely, and Panamint City was largely abandoned. Scavengers and a few holdouts lingered briefly, but the population evaporated within months.

Later History and Remnants

The site is protected; visitors must hike and plan trips carefully (flash flood risk remains high). Sporadic small-scale prospecting occurred in the early 20th century, but nothing revived the town. The area saw renewed minor activity during later Panamint Range booms (e.g., gold at nearby Skidoo in 1905–1917), but Panamint City itself remained a ghost town.

In the mid-20th century, some structures were salvaged or burned; flash floods continued to erode the site.

Today, within Death Valley National Park (established 1994, expanded to include the Panamint Range), remnants include:

  • Foundation stones and walls of former buildings.
  • Mine adits, shafts, and tailings piles.
  • The old smelter stack base and scattered artifacts.
Panamint City Stamp Mill
Panamint City Stamp Mill

Panamint City exemplifies the classic Western mining boom-bust cycle: fueled by rich silver discoveries, hyped by big investors, plagued by lawlessness and isolation, and doomed by ore depletion and natural disaster. Its brief, violent heyday left an enduring legend in Death Valley lore—one of outlaws turning prospectors, senators chasing silver, and a canyon that swallowed a town almost as fast as it rose.

Panamint Town Summary

NamePanamint
LocationInyo County
Latitude, Longitude36.1182827, -117.0953327
GNIS1661185
Elevation6,300 Feet
NewspaperPanamint News ( 1874-1875 )

Panamint Map

References

Ubehebe Crater

Ubehebe Crater (pronounced “you-bee-HEE-bee”) is one of the most striking and geologically dramatic features in Death Valley National Park, California. Located in the northern part of the park at the base of the Cottonwood Mountains (near the Racetrack Playa area), it is the largest and most prominent of a cluster of volcanic explosion craters known as the Ubehebe Craters or Ubehebe volcanic field. This maar-type crater stands out amid the park’s predominantly sedimentary and tectonic landscape as evidence of relatively recent volcanic activity in an otherwise arid, non-volcanic region.

Ubehebe Crater, Death Valley National Park, California
Ubehebe Crater, Death Valley National Park, California

Geological Description

Ubehebe Crater is a classic maar—a broad, shallow volcanic crater formed primarily by explosive phreatomagmatic eruptions (interactions between rising magma and groundwater). It measures approximately half a mile (about 0.8–1 km) in diameter and reaches depths of 500–777 feet (152–237 m), with steep, unstable inner walls composed of layered ejecta.

  • Formation Mechanism: The crater resulted from basaltic magma rising toward the surface and encountering groundwater in porous sedimentary rocks (primarily Miocene fanglomerates and sandstones). The intense heat caused the water to flash-boil into superheated steam, building enormous pressure. This triggered violent steam-driven explosions that fragmented and ejected large volumes of country rock (pre-existing sedimentary material) along with juvenile basaltic material. The blasts pulverized rock into ash, lapilli, bombs, and blocks, hurling them outward in pyroclastic surges and fallout deposits. Unlike typical lava-flow volcanoes, maar eruptions produce little to no sustained lava flows; instead, they create wide, low-angle rims of mixed ejecta.
  • Composition and Deposits: The ejecta blanket covers roughly 40 km² (15 mi²) around the craters. Deposits consist of approximately one-third basaltic scoria, bombs, and spatter (dark, fresh-looking volcanic material) and two-thirds comminuted fragments of older sedimentary rock (light-colored sandstone, conglomerate clasts). Layers alternate in color—dark basaltic ash and lighter sedimentary breccia—creating vivid banding visible on the crater walls and rim. Pyroclastic surge deposits (dense, ground-hugging flows of hot gas and debris) extend unusually far (up to 9–15 km in some directions, based on recent studies), preserved better here due to the arid environment with minimal erosion.
  • The Cluster: Ubehebe is the northernmost and youngest crater in a group of about 7–12 overlapping maars aligned roughly north-south over 1.5 km, with additional smaller vents east-west and isolated features. Smaller nearby craters include Little Hebe Crater (a nested or satellite maar) and others with tuff rings.
  • Age: Estimates vary due to challenges in dating young maars, but most recent research places the main eruptive sequence (including Ubehebe Crater) at approximately 2,100 years ago (around 100 BCE), based on radiocarbon dating, paleomagnetism, and stratigraphic studies. Earlier estimates ranged from 800–7,000 years old, with some suggesting the entire cluster formed in a brief period (weeks to months) from a single magmatic pulse rather than over centuries.

The eruptions exposed colorful underlying sedimentary layers, revealing Death Valley’s deeper geologic history of ancient lake beds, alluvial fans, and tectonic basin fill.

A Panorama looking from Ubehebe Crater overlooking the cinder fields, Death Valley National Park
A Panorama looking from Ubehebe Crater overlooking the cinder fields, Death Valley National Park

History of Discovery, Naming, and Study

  • Indigenous Context: The area lies within traditional territories of the Timbisha Shoshone people. “Ubehebe” derives from a Shoshone term possibly meaning “big basket” or “big hole in the ground,” reflecting the crater’s appearance. Indigenous knowledge of the landscape predates European-American exploration.
  • Euro-American Discovery: Prospectors and explorers encountered the crater in the late 19th/early 20th century amid Death Valley’s mining booms. It was noted for its dramatic appearance but not initially recognized as volcanic due to the region’s focus on gold, silver, and borax.
  • Scientific Recognition: Early 20th-century geologists identified its volcanic origin. Detailed studies intensified in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Key research includes:
    • Stratigraphic and paleomagnetic work showing a short eruptive duration.
    • 2016 studies on the cluster’s sequence (phreatomagmatic followed by minor magmatic phases).
    • 2022 research (led by Greg Valentine, University at Buffalo) revealing wider pyroclastic surge runout than typical for maars, implying underestimated hazard zones around similar volcanoes worldwide. Deposits preserved far from the vent highlight risks in arid settings.
  • Modern Status: Ubehebe Crater is a popular, accessible viewpoint in Death Valley National Park. A paved road leads to a parking area and overlook at the rim, with a short trail along the rim offering panoramic views. The interior is extremely hazardous (loose, steep slopes prone to rockfall), and descent is prohibited without permits (rarely granted). It serves as an educational site illustrating explosive volcanism, groundwater-magma interaction, and recent geologic activity in a tectonically active region.

Ubehebe Crater stands as a youthful reminder that Death Valley’s geologic story is ongoing—its formation just a few millennia ago underscores the potential for future volcanic events in this dynamic landscape, even if probabilities remain very low. Visitors experience one of the park’s most otherworldly sights: a stark black-rimmed pit contrasting with multicolored badlands under vast desert skies.

Hiking

The road into Ubehebe serves as the starting points to the Race Track Valley Road, Teakettle Junction and Hunter Mountain Road.

There are a few separate hiking opportunities while exploring the crater.

The crater rim trail, which is about 1.5 miles long, circumnavigates the crater and allows access to Little Hebe crater. The trail has some slight elevation gain, however could be more difficult to hikes with balance issue due to the unstable soil.

There is also a trail down the the bottom of the crater. This is a short trail and very easy going down. The difficulty is hiking back up the 600 feet elevation lost on the way down, in loose volcanic soil.

Ubehebe Crater Trail Map

References