The Amargosa Opera House

Recently, on a whim, my wife and I loaded up the jeep and opt to just explore the desert West of our home town of Las Vegas and ended up at the Amargosa Opera House. Our original idea was to drive to the winery’s in Pahrump, Nevada. After the winery our plan was to drive up to the townsite of Johnnie, Nevada. The best laid plans were for not. We discovered that the mines of Johnnie, Nevada are located on private property.

The Arargosa Opera House is located in Death Valley Junction, California.
The Arargosa Opera House is located in Death Valley Junction, California.

Honoring the wishes of the Johnnie mine site property owners, we opted to do some exploring. We headed easy through the small town of Crystal, Nevada and drove past the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. The AMNWR was closed, as the result of, a Government Shutdown.

As our wandering journey continued, we opted to travel South and soon discovered the small desert haven of Death Valley Junction and the world famous Amargosa Opera House.

Death Valley Junction was founded as the town of Amargosa. The town was founded at the intersection of SR 190 and SR 127 just East of Death Valley. Founded in 1907 when the Tonopay and Tidewater railroads ventured into Amargosa Valley.

Corkhill Hall

The Amargosa Opera House began life as Corkhill Hall in 1923-24. Alexander Hamillton McColloch designed the building, which was built by the Pacific Coast Borax Company. The building is a Spanish Colonial Revival style and organized as part of a much larger U shaped complex. The complex features included company offices, dormitories, dining room, store and a 23 room hotel. Corkhill Hall served the small complex as a location for dances, church services, movies and meetings.

The small town, as with many others boomed and busted with the borax industry. During WW2, the valley train tracks were removed. This was done in support of the war effort. Amargosa began to decline in the mid 20th century and slowly edge towards oblivion. In 1967, a flat tire and a performer Marta Beckett forever altered the sleepy little town.

The Opera House

In 1968, Amargosa changed it’s name to Death Valley Junction and Marta Beckett rented the Corkhill Recreation Hall. She oversaw repairs to the facility and repainted the interior with murals for the next five years. In her newly renovated Opera House, Mrs Beckett performed for the next 40 years. On February 12, 2012 Mrs Beckett performed her last show.

The Amargosa Opera House features original hand painted murals by Marta Becket.
The Amargosa Opera House features original hand painted murals by Marta Becket.

Such is life in the Mojave, filled with interesting characters who cherish and thrive in a harsh environment. Sadly, on our visit to Opera House was not open and I was not able to photograph the interior. However, while visiting a young ballerina was being photographed by under the trees outside of the old opera house. A testimony to Marta Becket which we are sure would make her proud.

My introduction to Ham Radio

A family friend of mine has long been an advocate of amateur or HAM radio. Growing up, I remember distinctly going to his house and seeing his home HF radio set. Before the time of computers, his radio dominated the room and all of the dials, microphones and keys reminded me of Dr. Frankenstein laboratory. When I was about 10, my father loaned me a testing manual to get my HAM license. I simply recall the book was very thick and there was a lot of wiring diagrams in it. This was a bit intimidating to me and the requirement to learn Morse code quickly stopped any ambition that I had to get my license.

Skip ahead about 20 years, and I found myself working for a video game development company. There, I had to good fortune of working with some of the smartest people whom I still call friends. Three of them had their HAM Technicians License which allowed privileges on the 2M ham band. At the time, I didn’t even know what that meant, but they quickly informed me that the license no longer requires you to learn Morse code.

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The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail

The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short is a 1.5 miles loop trail around a hill top and through a slot canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.  The trail it self is well marked and very easy going, with the exception of 1/4 mile at the north end, through a slot canyon.  Rings are bolted into the rock to serve as hand holds and give the trail its name.

The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short fun little hike in the Mojave National Preserve.
The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short fun little hike in the Mojave National Preserve.

Following the Hole in the Wall Ring Trail from the visitors center south, the trail circles a hill in showcases various plants and cacti in the area.  The trail starts off fairly sandy and remains so until about the time you reach a large rock covered with petroglyphs.  You can spends hours trying to decipher the message left by our Native American community who live in the area long ago.

A snake is just one of many petroglyphs on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
A snake is just one of many petroglyphs on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

Leaving the petrogplyph rock behind, the trail travels through a meadow towards the slot canyon and near the Banshee Canyon primitive campsite.  This area in the spring time is very beautiful with a green valley floor from the low green grass spurred on my a recent spring rain.

A slot canyon begins to form towards the end of the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
A slot canyon begins to form towards the end of the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

As you leave Banshee Canyon behind, the walls being to narrow down into a slot canyon.  As you hike into the slot canyon the walls continue to narrow until you reach the points you can touch each side of the Canyon at the same time.    The final push of the hike is about a 50 foot elevation gain and some of the elevation gain is accomplished via the ring hand holds bolted into the wall.

My son Ryan showing the proper technique for climbing the rings, on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
My son Ryan showing the proper technique for climbing the rings, on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve

Located in deep in the heart of the Mojave National Preserve there is an abundance of campsites to suit everyone.  The Mid Hills campground was an after thought on a recent trip in March, 2018, however the location and charm of this spot make it a new favorite destination.

Mid Hills Campsite in the Mojave National Preserve March 2018 after a rainstorm.
Mid Hills Campsite in the Mojave National Preserve March 2018 after a rainstorm.

In March 2018, I decided to take my son on our first father and son camping trip, just the boys.  We scoured maps and picked destinations and points of interest.  He was very excited to hike the Ring Trail and we opted over-night at Hole in the Wall campground.

I picked him up from school with the Jeep loaded and we drove down Nipton Road deep into the isolated areas of the Mojave.  We arrived at Hole in the Wall campground and with the sun starting to set discovered that the campground was full of motor homes and jeepers.  No place to camp.  We opted for ‘Plan B’ and headed north.

We arrived at the campground with just a few minutes to setup before the sun went down.  I was pleased that the campground was mostly empty, and the large campsites were physically spacious and located some distance away from each other.

Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.
Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.

That night we focused on dinner and building a campfire, which was a bit difficult with a bunch of wet tinder and fuel.  Fortunately, the Eagle Scout prevailed any my son and I roasted some march mallows and made some smores.  That evening as the cold wet air enveloped us we explored the cosmos with a telescope before falling asleep under a magnificent display.  The morning was a bit damp and silent.  Only now could I appreciate the beauty and drama located in this campground.

The campground sites within a stand of pinyon pine and juniper trees.  Sadly, on June 1st, 2005, lightning strikes started the Hackberry Fire with burned through the campground and 70,736 surrounding acres.  Twelve years later, there are still scars within the campground.  Long dead and burnt juniper trees juxtapose with new growth provides evidence of the enduring properties of nature.

The campground offers pit toilets, fire rings, tables and ample room.  The 5000 ft elevation offers cold nights in the winter months, however would offer some relief from the summers heat.  There are no ultilities, hook-ups or potable water.  There are 26 campsites, which will cost you are $12 a night and are available on a first come first serve basis.

Mid Hills Campground Map

Speckled Rattlesnake ( Crotalus mitchellii )

The Speckled Rattlesnake is fairly common pit viper found in southern California, southern Nevada, western Arizona and south-western Utah and down the Pacific coast into Baja California.  A moderate size snake, this animal typically does not exceed 39 inches in length.  As with most animals, the Speckled Rattlesnake is a master of disguise and commonly are colored to compliment the surrounding rock.  This viper can range from pink, cream, tan or pale blues and grays.  This feature I can personally attest to as I witnessed and entire Cub Scout Pack literally step over the specimen photographed below while hiking on a camping trip in the Valley of Fire State Park just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada.

Juvenile Speckled Rattle Snake found in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada
A Juvenile Speckled Rattlesnake found in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada
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