Tag: Utah

Utah, a state in the western United States, is renowned for its stunning natural landscapes and unique geological formations. It is characterized by vast deserts, towering red rock formations, and the dramatic peaks of the Rocky Mountains. Home to five national parks—Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches—Utah attracts outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers from around the world. Its capital, Salt Lake City, is a hub of culture, history, and outdoor recreation, famously hosting the 2002 Winter Olympics. Utah’s diverse terrain offers opportunities for skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and exploring ancient Native American petroglyphs and archaeological sites. The state’s Mormon heritage is also evident in its history, architecture, and the world-famous Salt Lake Temple.

Old Spanish Trail

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The Old Spanish Trail BLM Sign
The Old Spanish Trail BLM Sign

Introduction

The Old Spanish Trail, a significant trade and travel route in the American Southwest, connected Spanish colonial settlements in present-day New Mexico to California during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Spanning approximately 2,700 miles, the trail facilitated cultural exchange, commerce, and exploration across rugged terrains, linking diverse peoples and shaping the region’s history. This report examines the trail’s origins, development, key figures, economic and cultural impacts, and eventual decline, drawing on historical records and archaeological evidence.

Origins and Development

The Old Spanish Trail emerged from earlier Native American trade networks, which Spanish explorers adapted for their purposes. By the late 1700s, Spanish colonial authorities in Santa Fe sought reliable routes to connect their New Mexico settlements with California’s missions and presidios. The trail’s development was incremental, with early expeditions laying the groundwork.

  • Early Exploration (1776): The Dominguez-Escalante expedition, led by Franciscan priests Francisco Atanasio Dominguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante, aimed to find a route from Santa Fe to Monterey, California. Although the expedition failed to reach California, it mapped parts of the Southwest, including areas later incorporated into the trail.
  • Formalization (1820s): By the 1820s, Mexican independence from Spain (1821) opened the region to increased trade. Merchants and traders, particularly from Taos and Santa Fe, began using the trail to transport goods to Los Angeles. The route combined segments of earlier paths, including the Northern Route, Armijo Route, and Main Route, each varying slightly in path and difficulty.

The trail stretched from Santa Fe, New Mexico, through present-day Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, and California, terminating in Los Angeles. Its path traversed deserts, mountains, and canyons, including the Mojave Desert and the Grand Canyon region, making it one of the most arduous trade routes in North America.

Key Figures

Christopher 'Kit' Carson (1809-1868), American explorer - Photograph byMathew Brady or Levin C. Handy - This image is available from the United States Library of Congress's Prints and Photographs division under the digital ID cwpbh.00514.
Christopher ‘Kit’ Carson (1809-1868), American explorer – Photograph byMathew Brady or Levin C. Handy – This image is available from the United States Library of Congress’s Prints and Photographs division under the digital ID cwpbh.00514.
Captain John C. Frémont, explorer first mapped Diamond Valley Nevada
Captain John C. Frémont, explorer first mapped Diamond Valley Nevada

Several individuals played pivotal roles in the trail’s history:

  • Antonio Armijo (1829-1830): A Mexican merchant, Armijo led the first successful commercial expedition from Santa Fe to Los Angeles, establishing the Armijo Route. His journey solidified the trail as a viable trade corridor, with pack mules carrying woolen goods west and returning with horses and mules.
  • John C. Frémont (1840s): The American explorer and military officer documented parts of the trail during his expeditions, increasing U.S. interest in the region. His maps and reports helped popularize the trail among American settlers.
  • Kit Carson and Other Guides: Mountain men and guides like Kit Carson facilitated travel along the trail, bridging cultural and linguistic gaps between Spanish, Mexican, Native American, and Anglo-American travelers.

Economic and Cultural Impacts

The Old Spanish Trail was a vital artery for economic and cultural exchange in the Southwest.

  • Economic Significance:
    • Trade Goods: New Mexican traders exported woolen textiles, blankets, and hides to California, where they were exchanged for horses, mules, and luxury goods like silk and wine. This trade bolstered local economies, particularly in Santa Fe and Los Angeles.
    • Livestock Drives: The trail became a major corridor for driving horses and mules eastward, with California’s abundant livestock fetching high prices in New Mexico and beyond.
    • Illicit Trade: The trail also facilitated illegal activities, including the trade of enslaved Native Americans, particularly Paiute and Ute individuals, who were captured and sold in New Mexico or California markets.
  • Cultural Exchange:
    • Native American Interactions: The trail crossed territories of numerous tribes, including the Ute, Paiute, Mojave, and Navajo. While some tribes engaged in trade, others faced exploitation or violence, leading to tensions.
    • Hispanic Influence: Spanish and Mexican cultural practices, including language, religion, and ranching techniques, spread to California, leaving a lasting imprint on the region’s identity.
    • Diverse Travelers: The trail attracted a mix of Spanish, Mexican, Native American, and later Anglo-American traders, fostering a multicultural exchange of ideas, technologies, and traditions.

Challenges and Decline

Travel along the Old Spanish Trail was fraught with challenges. Harsh environmental conditions, including water scarcity in the Mojave Desert and treacherous mountain passes, tested travelers’ endurance. Hostile encounters with Native American groups, particularly in response to slave raiding, posed additional risks. The trail’s reliance on pack mules limited the volume of goods transported, making it less efficient than later wagon-based routes.

The trail’s prominence waned by the mid-19th century due to several factors:

  • U.S. Annexation (1848): The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, ending the Mexican-American War, transferred the Southwest to the United States. New American roads and railroads, such as the Santa Fe Trail and transcontinental railway, offered faster and safer alternatives.
  • Gold Rush (1849): The California Gold Rush shifted attention to northern routes, as prospectors sought quicker paths to goldfields.
  • Changing Trade Patterns: The rise of coastal shipping and overland wagon routes diminished the trail’s economic viability.

By the 1850s, the Old Spanish Trail had largely fallen into disuse as a major trade route, though segments remained in use for local travel.

Legacy and Preservation

The Old Spanish Trail left an enduring legacy in the American Southwest. It contributed to the region’s economic development, cultural diversity, and eventual integration into the United States. Place names, such as Las Vegas (originally a watering stop on the trail), and archaeological sites, including campsites and trade posts, reflect its historical significance.

In 2002, the U.S. Congress designated the Old Spanish Trail as a National Historic Trail, recognizing its role in American history. The National Park Service, in collaboration with state agencies and preservation groups, maintains interpretive sites and protects trail remnants. Modern efforts focus on public education, trail mapping, and archaeological research to preserve this vital piece of Southwestern heritage.

Conclusion

The Old Spanish Trail was more than a trade route; it was a conduit for economic, cultural, and social exchange in the American Southwest. From its origins in Spanish colonial ambitions to its role in Mexican and early American trade, the trail shaped the region’s history despite its challenges. Its legacy endures in the cultural diversity of the Southwest and the preserved remnants that continue to tell its story. Understanding the trail’s history offers valuable insights into the complex interplay of peoples and economies that defined the American frontier.

Further Reading

Wells Spicer

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Wells Spicer (1831–1885 or 1887) was an American journalist, lawyer and judge whose over saw the trial after the gunfight at the O.K. Corral in Tombstone Arizona.

Historical photo of Wells Spicer, 1875. Cropped from group photo of John D. Lee's defense team for Lee's second murder trial.
Historical photo of Wells Spicer, 1875. Cropped from group photo of John D. Lee’s defense team for Lee’s second murder trial.

Early Life and Education

Wells Spicer was born in 1831 in Chemung, Tioga County, New York, to William and Seba Spicer, Presbyterian farmers. He had two siblings: an older brother, George, and a younger sister, also named Seba. Around 1840, when Wells was nine, the family relocated to Tipton, Cedar County, Iowa. As a young man, Spicer clerked for respected lawyer, banker, and merchant William H. Tuthill, under whose guidance he was admitted to the Iowa bar in 1853. That same year, Spicer, with associates, launched the Cedar County Advertiser, becoming its sole publisher and editor by 1854. He sold the successful newspaper four years later.

Early Career and Family

Spicer’s early career was multifaceted. In 1854, he ran unsuccessfully as a Democrat for county prosecutor but switched to the Republican Party and won election as county judge in 1856. That July, he married Abbie Gilbert, and they welcomed a son, Earnest, in 1857. The couple faced marital difficulties, separating in 1876, though Spicer considered himself married years later. After a brief stint in Onandaeg City, Colorado, Spicer moved to the Utah Territory in 1869 with former publishing colleague Charles Swetland, settling in Corinne City, a non-Mormon enclave. Admitted to the Utah bar, Spicer specialized in mining suits and claims and opened a hotel. Abbie and Earnest joined him around this time.

Utah Ventures and the Mountain Meadows Massacre Trial

In 1871, Wells Spicer and his family moved to Ophir City, Utah, where he continued legal work, prospected, and founded a tunneling company. He contributed to the Salt Lake Daily Tribune and Utah Mining Gazette. By 1872, the family settled in Salt Lake City, where Spicer was appointed U.S. Commissioner by the Supreme Court, handling cases primarily in Bingham. In 1874, he leased the Rollins Mine in the Lincoln Mining District near Minersville, striking a profitable lead and gold vein that revitalized the area.

Through his Beaver connections, Spicer became entangled in the infamous Mountain Meadows Massacre trial. In November 1874, Sheriff William Stokes arrested John D. Lee for his role in the 1857 massacre, where a Mormon militia killed approximately 120 emigrants in southern Utah. Spicer defended Lee in two trials. The first, in 1875, ended in a hung jury—eight Mormons voted for acquittal, four non-Mormons for conviction. Spicer faced backlash: non-Mormons labeled him a “jack Mormon” for defending Lee, while Mormons criticized his defense tactics. The second trial in 1876, with a Mormon-heavy jury, convicted Lee, who was executed by firing squad on March 22, 1877. Spicer’s reputation suffered, with both sides vilifying him in the press, often referring to him derisively as “One Spicer.”

Move to Tombstone and the O.K. Corral Hearing

In 1878, Spicer relocated to Tombstone, Arizona, where he worked as an attorney, mining broker, and U.S. Commissioner for Deeds. He was appointed Justice of the First District Court in June 1880, overseeing customs, internal revenue, and U.S. criminal cases. Related to the Earp brothers, Spicer’s most notable role came after the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881. The 30-second shootout pitted Marshal Virgil Earp, his brothers Wyatt and Morgan, and Doc Holliday against outlaws Billy Claiborne, Ike and Billy Clanton, and Tom and Frank McLaury. Billy Clanton and the McLaury brothers were killed.

As Justice of the Peace, Spicer presided over the preliminary hearing to determine if the Earps and Holliday should face murder charges, following complaints filed by Ike Clanton. The month-long “Spicer Hearing,” held in a building near the Tombstone Epitaph office, generated intense debate. Spicer’s rulings, including allowing Kate Holliday’s testimony despite her allegations against Doc Holliday, sparked accusations of bias, especially given his business ties with Wyatt Earp in liquor and tobacco sales. On November 29, 1881, Spicer ruled that the evidence would not support a murder conviction, citing the defendants’ actions as justified in their official duties. He noted the lawlessness of the frontier and the Earps’ role in maintaining order, though he acknowledged the Grand Jury could revisit the case. The Grand Jury upheld his decision, and the Earps and Holliday were released.

The bodies of Tom & Frank McLaury and Bill Clanton after the shoot-out in Tombstone
The bodies of Tom & Frank McLaury and Bill Clanton after the shoot-out in Tombstone

The ruling was polarizing. The Tombstone Epitaph praised Spicer, while the Tombstone Nugget and the Cowboy faction condemned him. In December 1881, Spicer received a threatening letter from “A Miner,” warning him to leave or face violence. Unintimidated, he remained in Tombstone but faced ongoing scrutiny for alleged partisanship.

Later Years and Mysterious Disappearance

The O.K. Corral decision effectively ended Spicer’s legal career in Tombstone. He shifted focus to prospecting, first in Pima County, Arizona, then in Ures, Sonora, Mexico. In the mid-1880s, he invested heavily in a silver mine in the Quijotoa Mountains near Tucson, but the shallow veins led to financial ruin. Destitute and reportedly despondent, Spicer’s final days are shrouded in mystery. In January 1887, while en route to Covered Wells, he visited Bill Haynes and attempted suicide twice. He then wandered into the Arizona desert and vanished. Some believe he died of exposure, while others speculate he faked his death to escape creditors and fled to Mexico, possibly Ures. A report suggests his body was found in Ajo, Arizona, in 1885, but no definitive evidence confirms his fate.

Legacy

Wells Spicer’s life encapsulates the complexities of the American frontier. A lawyer, journalist, prospector, and judge, he navigated the volatile worlds of mining, politics, and justice. His involvement in the Mountain Meadows Massacre trials and the O.K. Corral hearing placed him at the heart of two defining frontier events, earning him both fame and infamy. Criticized for bias yet praised for his legal reasoning, Spicer’s decisions reflected the blurred lines between law and lawlessness in the Wild West. His mysterious disappearance only adds to his enigmatic legacy, leaving historians to debate whether he met a tragic end or slipped away to a new life.

Fay Nevada – Lincoln County Ghost Town

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Fay, Nevada, is a ghost town located in Lincoln County, approximately 10 miles northeast of Alamo. Once a small but active mining community, Fay has faded into obscurity, leaving behind only traces of its brief existence. This report explores the history of Fay, its establishment, economic activities, population, and eventual decline, drawing on available historical records to provide a comprehensive overview.

Fay Nevada - 1910 - The horseshoe mine is visible on the hill
Fay Nevada – 1910 – The horseshoe mine is visible on the hill

Establishment and Early Development

Fay was established in the late 19th century during a period of intense mining activity in Nevada. The discovery of mineral deposits, likely silver or gold, spurred prospectors to settle in the area. The town was officially recognized with the opening of the Fay post office in September 1900, which served as a critical link for communication and supply in the remote region. The post office remained operational until July 1924, marking a 24-year period of activity.

The town’s name, “Fay,” may have been inspired by a person or a term common in mining communities, though specific origins are unclear due to limited records. Like many Nevada mining towns, Fay’s early development was tied to the boom-and-bust cycles of the mining industry, with its fortunes dependent on the productivity of local mines.

Economic Activity

The primary economic driver of Fay was mining. Lincoln County, rich in mineral resources, saw numerous small mining camps like Fay emerge during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Miners in Fay likely extracted silver, gold, or other metals, though specific details about the mines or their output are scarce. The town’s remote location meant that supplies had to be transported over long distances, making the post office a vital hub for receiving goods and sending out ore or correspondence.

In addition to mining, some residents may have engaged in ancillary activities such as small-scale farming or ranching to support the community. However, the arid climate and rugged terrain of Lincoln County limited agricultural potential, reinforcing mining as the economic backbone.

Fay Nevada - 1910
Fay Nevada – 1910

Population and Community

Fay was never a large settlement. According to the 1910 U.S. Census, the Fay precinct had a population of 99 residents. This small population reflects the transient nature of mining towns, where communities often consisted of miners, their families, and a few service providers such as merchants or postmasters. The demographic likely included a mix of Euro-American settlers and possibly some Native American or immigrant laborers, though specific records are unavailable.

One notable figure associated with Fay is Darr H. Alkire, a United States Air Force general born in Fay during its active years. Alkire’s birth in the town highlights its role as a small but functioning community capable of supporting families, at least temporarily.

The community would have centered around essential services like the post office and perhaps a general store or saloon. Social life in Fay likely revolved around mining activities, with residents sharing the challenges of living in a remote, harsh environment. However, no records of schools, churches, or other institutions have been found, suggesting that Fay remained a rudimentary settlement.

Decline and Abandonment

Fay’s decline began in the early 20th century as the local mines became less productive. By the time the post office closed in July 1924, the town was likely already in decline. The exhaustion of mineral resources, combined with the high costs of sustaining a remote community, drove residents to seek opportunities elsewhere. Many moved to larger towns like Alamo or Caliente, or left Lincoln County entirely.

By the mid-20th century, Fay had become a ghost town, with its buildings abandoned and left to deteriorate. Today, little remains of Fay beyond scattered ruins, possibly including foundations or mining debris. The site is rarely visited, and its obscurity is compounded by the lack of detailed historical documentation.

Historical Significance

Fay’s history is emblematic of the many short-lived mining towns that dotted Nevada during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These communities played a critical role in the state’s economic development, contributing to Nevada’s reputation as a hub of mineral wealth. Fay’s small size and brief existence underscore the challenges of sustaining remote settlements in an arid, resource-scarce environment.

The town’s story also reflects broader themes in Nevada’s history, including the transient nature of mining booms, the resilience of early settlers, and the impact of geographic isolation. While Fay itself left little mark on the historical record, its existence adds to the tapestry of Nevada’s mining heritage.

Conclusion

Fay, Nevada, was a fleeting chapter in the state’s history, born from the promise of mineral wealth and extinguished by the realities of an unforgiving landscape. Its 24 years of activity, centered around a small mining community, offer a glimpse into the lives of those who sought fortune in Nevada’s rugged interior. Though now a ghost town, Fay remains a testament to the ambition and impermanence of the mining frontier.

Town Summary

TownFay Nevada
Latitude, Longitude37.9080190,-114.0699775
Elevation6926 Feet
Postoffice1901 – 1924
Population99 (1910 Census)

Fay Trail Map

Resources

Upper Antelope Canyon

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Located just outside of Page, Arizona Upper Antelope Canyon is arguably the best known slot canyon on the planet, yet few people will know its name outside of desert enthusiasts.  For those unaware of these structures, slot canyons are extremely narrow canyons, carved by water, which are typically just a few feet wide, but may be just a few inches.  The typically arid dessert can instantly turn into raging torrent of water in just a few minutes with just a few inches of water.  This water picks up speed, and debris such as sand, which scours the landscape including rock.  Antelope Canyon is found on Navajo Tribal land, and access to the canyon is only allowed with a Navajo Guide.

Molten Wave - Located in Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona Antelope Canyon is the best known slot canyon.
Molten Wave – Located in Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona Antelope Canyon is the best known slot canyon.
Parallelism – The smooth canyon walls of Antelop Canyon offer amazing photographic images.

Antelope Canyon is actually two separate slot canyons located a short distance from each other on either side of US 98.  Upper Antelope Canyon is know as Tse’ bighanilini, which in Navajo means “the place where water runs through rocks.”  Travel to the Canyon is done via Navajo run transport and you are allowed about 2 hours for your visit.  The site is at about 4,000 feet elevation and the canyon walls rise 120 feet above a stream bed.

I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.

James Rathbun, Destination4x4.com

Access into the upper canyon is simply a walking into a canyon.  The trail is flat and sandy and very easy to manage.  Upon entrance into the Upper Antelope Canyon you are immediately struck by the texture and color of this place.  Just inside the entrance, is a small chamber which seems to great you, and the pink and orange glow of the light bouncing off the walls force your eyes up.  The geography is such, that the narrow opening high above you lets in a small fraction of the available light, and that light bounces down towards the bottom of the canyon.

Relatively short, Upper Antelope Canyon may be traversed in just 5 minutes.  However, this is simply a waste of your time if you just rush through.  The only complaint of the canyon, are the other visitors.  As a photographer, I have many photographs ruined by people turning a corner and walking into my frame while I was making an exposure.  This does not mean they were rude or anything but patient, but rather an unfortunate side effect of composing photographs with long exposure times in a 18 inch wide slot Canyon.

French Curve - Upper Antelope Canyon
French Curve – Upper Antelope Canyon

As with all beautiful things, we must share this location and Antelope Canyon is a must stop location every time I visit the area.  There is a hidden danger, in that the very forces which sculpt a slot canyon are still very much in play and every few years a new story will appear about someone being killed in a slot canyon due to a sudden flash flood.

I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.

Upper Antelope Canyon Map

Goblin Valley Utah

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A Goblin formed from a soft limestone, water and time offer a unique hiking experience. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Goblin Valley is located in Utah is a state park and campground which is adjacent to eroded flood plain. Formed by water, time and a soft sandstone, erosion sculpted the limestone into unique rock formations which some have stated appears to be goblins.  The Goblin Valley itself is a day use hiking area which allows one to get lost in the maze of spires and rock formations.

Valley Queen, Goblin Valley, Utah Photography by James L Rathbun
Valley Queen, Goblin Valley Utah. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Each rock spire ranges in height from 3 feet to about 20 feet tall.  The fragile structures litter the landscape and sadly on occasion have been felled by people who do not have respect for nature.  There are three established self, however the Valley of the Goblins is a open trail flat mud plane after a easy and short trail down from the parking area.

Goblin Valley State Park does offer an established campground of 22 campsites just over a hill from the Valley of the Goblins.  The campground features, paved sites, bathrooms, showers, water and dump stations. The campground is very popular destination due to location next to Goblin Valley and is also a wonderful centralized base camp location for exploring the San Rafael Swell.

A solitary Pronghorn ( Antilocapra americana ) found near Golbin Valley, Utah
A solitary Pronghorn ( Antilocapra americana ) found near Golbin Valley, Utah

We stated in Goblin Valley in the off season several years ago. We were greeted with lots of camp sites available, privacy and a minor wind and rain storm. Despite the less then desirable conditions, we enjoyed our stay and will try to make it back again in the future.

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