John Wesley Powell

John Wesley Powell, a remarkable American explorer, geologist, and ethnologist, was born on March 24, 1834, in Mount Morris, New York. His expeditions through the uncharted territories of the American West not only added to scientific knowledge but also provided invaluable insights into the land’s geological and cultural diversity. Powell’s legacy as a pioneer of exploration and his tireless efforts in promoting conservation measures have left an indelible mark on American history.

Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.
Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.

Early Life and Education

Powell grew up in rural New York, where his love for nature and the outdoors was nurtured from an early age. Although he lost his right arm in a childhood accident, Powell’s determination and thirst for adventure were undeterred. He developed a keen interest in natural sciences and geography and pursued higher education at Illinois College and later at Oberlin College, where he focused on geology.

Grand Canyon Expeditions

Powell’s most famous and daring expedition was his 1869 journey down the Colorado River, known as the Powell Geographic Expedition. With a team of nine men, Powell set out to explore the largely uncharted canyons and rapids of the Colorado River and gather valuable scientific data. The expedition faced numerous hardships, including treacherous rapids, scarce food supplies, and hostile encounters with Native American tribes. Miraculously, Powell and his crew successfully navigated the treacherous river and completed the journey, providing unprecedented knowledge of the Grand Canyon and its geological formations.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

Powell’s subsequent expeditions further solidified his reputation as a fearless explorer. He embarked on multiple journeys across the American West, including explorations of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Rocky Mountains, and the Uinta Mountains. Powell’s meticulous record-keeping and scientific observations greatly expanded the understanding of the region’s geology, hydrology, and ethnography.

Scientific Contributions

Powell’s expeditions were not merely adventurous endeavors but also scientific ventures aimed at advancing knowledge in various fields. He published numerous papers and reports detailing his findings, including “Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries” and “Canons of the Colorado.” These works significantly contributed to the geological understanding of the American West, shaping subsequent research and studies in the region.

Additionally, Powell’s expertise in ethnology led him to conduct extensive research on Native American tribes. He documented their cultures, languages, and customs, recognizing the importance of preserving their heritage. His ethnographic studies formed a crucial foundation for future anthropological research in the United States.

Conservation Advocacy

John Wesley Powell was not only a scientist and explorer but also an early advocate for conservation. Recognizing the fragile nature of the American West’s ecosystems, he became a vocal proponent of sustainable land use practices and preservation efforts. Powell believed that the arid region’s limited water resources necessitated careful management and planning.

In 1879, Powell presented his influential “Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States” to Congress. This groundbreaking report emphasized the need for responsible irrigation and land development strategies, urging policymakers to consider the long-term consequences of uncontrolled resource exploitation. Powell’s report laid the groundwork for the eventual establishment of the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Reclamation, both crucial agencies in land and water management.

Legacy and Impact

John Wesley Powell’s contributions to exploration, science, and conservation continue to resonate today. His expeditions not only unveiled the wonders of the American West but also inspired future generations of explorers and scientists. Powell’s emphasis on interdisciplinary research and his understanding of the intricate relationships between humans and their environment remain

References

Shafer Trail

An old cattle trail, the Shafer trail which will test your nerve, as you descend down into the canyons of Canyonlands National Park.  This trail by any sense of 4×4 measure is simple.  It is for more a challenge of nerve over machine.  

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

This is a short, steep and windy trail from the top of Canyonlands National park down towards the White Rim Trail and beyond.  There is no technical challenge on this road at all, but it is the type of trail that will make even the most hardcore traveler smile. There are tight switchbacks as you quickly join up with the Colorado River. Steep cliff faces, extreme drops and amazing views are your reward.  Enjoy, and be sure to take your time.

The trail starts near the visitors center of Canyonlands National monument, winds down through the Shafer switchbacks. Once you reach the bottom, you can go left and follow the Colorado River into highway 279 into Moab. A right turn will take you to the White Rim Trail.  When you get near the potash plant, you may be rerouted onto Potash Road. Simply follow it around the plant to rejoin the Shafer Trail.

Shafer Trail map

White Rim Trail

The White Rim Trail is Canyonlands National Park is a 100 mile back country 4×4 trail that follows an strata of white lime stone along the edge of Island in the Sky mesa Located in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.  Back country permits are required for this trail, and although it can easily be taken in one day, the wise traveler takes their time and runs the route in several days and nights.  There are several camp grounds offering star gazing opportunities, and the grand vistas and long light in the early morning and late afternoon will inspire the Ansel Adams within you.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The trailhead is reached by leaving the Islands in the Sky Mesa, using the steep and twisty Shafer Trail.  The Shafer Trail is a back county route that takes you back to Moab, UT and a fun way out at the end of your trip.  The Shafer trail drops quickly and about 700 feet using 6 switch backs.  The Shafer Trail and White Rim Trail are well maintained and not very narrow, but the elevation and views give the feeling the route is dangerous.

Sunset along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands NP, Utah Photograph by James L Rathbun
Sunset along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands NP, Utah Photograph by James L Rathbun

Once down on the bottom, the well marked Shafer Trail continues on, while the White Rim Trail branches right and to the south.  All along the backcountry dirt road there are numerous spur trails, vistas, and points of interest give you much to explore including Lathrop Canyon, Musselman Arch, Washer Woman Arch and the Monster Tower.  The entire route is easy to follow, well maintained, well traveled and pure joy to run.

The trail winds along a layer of erroded light colored sandstone called the White Rim which undulates around several smaller side canyons which lead down the the Colorado River.  

Available Campsites

There are several small primitive campsites throughout the route.

  • Shafer – Mile 7 – 1 site
  • Airport – Mile 19 – 4 sites
  • Gooseberry – Mile 30 – 2 sites
  • White Crack – Mile 39 – 1 site
  • Murphy Hogback – Mile 45 – 3 sites
  • Candlestick – Mile 55 – 1 sites
  • Potato Bottom – Mile 66 – 3 sites
  • Hardscrabble Bottom – Mile 70 – 2 sites
  • Labyrinth – Mile 72 – 2 sites
  • Taylor – Mile 77 – 1 site

Trail Map