Tag: Utah

Utah, a state in the western United States, is renowned for its stunning natural landscapes and unique geological formations. It is characterized by vast deserts, towering red rock formations, and the dramatic peaks of the Rocky Mountains. Home to five national parks—Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches—Utah attracts outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers from around the world. Its capital, Salt Lake City, is a hub of culture, history, and outdoor recreation, famously hosting the 2002 Winter Olympics. Utah’s diverse terrain offers opportunities for skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and exploring ancient Native American petroglyphs and archaeological sites. The state’s Mormon heritage is also evident in its history, architecture, and the world-famous Salt Lake Temple.

Harry Alonzo Longabaugh

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Harry Alonzo Longabaugh was the American outlaw known as the Sundance Kid. A key member of Butch Cassidy’s Wild Bunch gang, he became infamous in the 1890s for bank and train robberies across the western United States.

Harry Longabaugh, alias Sundance Kid, three-quarter length portrait
Harry Longabaugh, alias Sundance Kid, three-quarter length portrait

Harry Alonzo Longabaugh, famously known as the Sundance Kid, was born in 1867 in Mont Clare, Pennsylvania, to Josiah and Annie Longabaugh, a working-class family of English and German descent. The youngest of five children, Harry grew up in a modest household but displayed an adventurous spirit early on. At age fifteen, inspired by tales of the American West, he left home to seek his fortune, drifting westward as a cowboy and ranch hand. By 1887, at age twenty, Harry’s life took a criminal turn when he stole a horse, saddle, and revolver in Sundance, Wyoming, earning him a brief jail stint and the nickname “Sundance Kid.” This incident marked his entry into a life of crime, setting the stage for his later association with Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch.

Longabaugh’s early years in the West were spent working as a cowboy in Wyoming and Colorado, where he honed his skills as a horseman and marksman—attributes that would later define his outlaw persona. By the mid-1890s, he had joined forces with Butch Cassidy (Robert LeRoy Parker), becoming a key member of the Wild Bunch, a notorious gang of outlaws known for their bank and train robberies across the western United States. Utah, with its rugged terrain and remote hideouts, became a significant hub for the Wild Bunch’s operations, and Longabaugh spent considerable time in the state during his criminal career.

Arrival in Utah and the Wild Bunch

The forth Worth Five Photograph - Front row left to right: Harry A. Longabaugh, alias the Sundance Kid; Ben Kilpatrick, alias the Tall Texan; Robert Leroy Parker, alias Butch Cassidy. Standing: Will Carver & Harvey Logan, alias Kid Curry; Fort Worth, Texas, 1900.
The forth Worth Five Photograph – Front row left to right: Harry A. Longabaugh, alias the Sundance Kid; Ben Kilpatrick, alias the Tall Texan; Robert Leroy Parker, alias Butch Cassidy. Standing: Will Carver & Harvey Logan, alias Kid Curry; Fort Worth, Texas, 1900.

By the mid-1890s, Longabaugh had linked up with Butch Cassidy, likely through mutual contacts in the outlaw network. The Wild Bunch, which included other notable figures like Elzy Lay, Ben Kilpatrick (the Tall Texan), and Harvey Logan (Kid Curry), used Utah’s isolated landscapes as strategic bases. Two primary hideouts in Utah were Robbers Roost, a labyrinth of canyons in the southeastern part of the state between the Colorado, Green, and Dirty Devil Rivers, and Browns Park, a remote valley near the Utah-Colorado-Wyoming border. These locations provided ideal cover for planning heists, evading posses, and blending into sympathetic local communities.

Longabaugh’s activities in Utah were closely tied to the Wild Bunch’s operations. His reputation as a skilled gunman and cool-headed accomplice made him a valuable asset to Cassidy, who preferred non-violent, meticulously planned robberies. The Sundance Kid’s charm and easygoing demeanor, much like Cassidy’s, helped the gang maintain alliances with ranchers and locals who often shielded them from law enforcement.

The Castle Gate Robbery and Utah Exploits

One of the most significant events linking Longabaugh to Utah was the Pleasant Valley Coal Company payroll robbery on April 21, 1897, in Castle Gate, Utah. Alongside Butch Cassidy and Elzy Lay, Longabaugh participated in this daring heist, which netted the gang approximately $7,000 in silver coins (equivalent to about $245,000 in 2024). The robbery took place in broad daylight at the company’s pay station, where the outlaws, posing as bystanders, swiftly seized the payroll and escaped without firing a shot. They fled to Robbers Roost, navigating the treacherous canyon country to evade a pursuing posse. This heist, one of the largest payroll robberies of the Old West, solidified the Wild Bunch’s notoriety and Longabaugh’s role as a key figure in the gang.

Beyond the Castle Gate robbery, Longabaugh’s time in Utah was spent in the Wild Bunch’s hideouts, particularly Robbers Roost and Browns Park. Robbers Roost was a nearly impregnable fortress of red rock canyons, accessible only by those familiar with its trails, making it an ideal refuge. Browns Park, located along the Green River, was another haven where outlaws could rest, resupply, and even work as ranch hands under aliases. Local ranchers, such as the Carlisle and Davenport families, were known to harbor the Wild Bunch, providing food, horses, and information in exchange for protection or payment. Longabaugh, often described as affable and well-liked, likely contributed to the gang’s ability to maintain these alliances.

In Browns Park, Longabaugh is believed to have formed a romantic relationship with Etta Place, a mysterious woman who became his companion. While her true identity remains debated—some speculate she was Ann Bassett, a Browns Park rancher’s daughter, or a schoolteacher named Ethel Place—her association with Longabaugh began in the late 1890s, possibly in Utah or nearby regions. Etta would later accompany Longabaugh and Cassidy to South America, adding to the legend of the Sundance Kid.

Life as an Outlaw in Utah

Longabaugh’s time in Utah was not limited to high-profile robberies. The Wild Bunch frequently engaged in cattle rustling and smaller thefts, using Browns Park as a base to move stolen livestock across state lines. Longabaugh’s role in these activities is less documented, but his presence in the region is confirmed by historical accounts of the gang’s movements. The Wild Bunch’s ability to operate in Utah relied on their knowledge of the terrain and the goodwill of locals, who resented the growing influence of wealthy cattle barons and railroad companies. Stories of the gang’s generosity, such as hosting a lavish Thanksgiving dinner in Browns Park in the mid-1890s, attended by locals and complete with roast turkey and pumpkin pie, helped cement their folk-hero status.

Unlike some of his more volatile counterparts, such as Harvey Logan, Longabaugh shared Cassidy’s preference for avoiding violence during robberies. This approach, combined with his sharpshooting skills, made him a reliable partner in the gang’s meticulously planned heists. His time in Utah’s hideouts allowed him to lie low between jobs, often posing as a ranch hand or drifter to avoid detection. However, the increasing pressure from law enforcement, particularly the Pinkerton Detective Agency, hired by railroad companies to hunt the Wild Bunch, made life in Utah increasingly precarious by the late 1890s.

Flight to South America

By 1900, the Wild Bunch was under intense scrutiny, with bounties on their heads and Pinkerton detectives tracking their movements. After a series of high-profile robberies, including the June 2, 1899, Wilcox train robbery in Wyoming and the August 29, 1899, Rock Creek train robbery in Wyoming, Longabaugh and Cassidy realized their days in the American West were numbered. In early 1901, Longabaugh, Cassidy, and Etta Place fled to New York City, where they posed for a now-famous photograph at the DeYoung Photography Studio. On February 20, 1901, they sailed from New York to Buenos Aires, Argentina, aboard the SS Herminius, seeking to escape the relentless pursuit of law enforcement.

In Argentina, Longabaugh and Cassidy attempted to go straight, purchasing a 15,000-acre ranch near Cholila, Chubut, under the aliases James “Santiago” Ryan (Cassidy) and Harry “Enrique” Place (Longabaugh), with Etta as his wife. They raised cattle, sheep, and horses, living quietly for several years. Longabaugh’s time in Utah had prepared him for this ranching life, as he was already skilled in handling livestock from his days in Browns Park. However, by 1906, financial pressures and the lure of easy money drew them back to crime, and they began robbing banks and trains across South America.

The Mystery of Longabaugh’s Fate

The traditional account of Longabaugh’s life ends with his death alongside Butch Cassidy in a shootout with the Bolivian Army on November 7, 1908, near San Vicente, Bolivia. After robbing a mine payroll, the pair were cornered in a boarding house. A prolonged firefight ended with two gunshots, believed to be suicides, though the bodies were never definitively identified. This narrative, popularized by the 1969 film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford, has become the dominant version of events.

However, like Cassidy, Longabaugh’s fate is shrouded in mystery. Some historians and family members, including Cassidy’s sister Lula Parker Betenson, claimed that both men survived Bolivia and returned to the United States. Sightings of Longabaugh were reported in Utah and Wyoming in the 1920s and 1930s, with some suggesting he lived under an alias, possibly as a rancher or drifter. A 1930s account from a Utah doctor, Francis Smith, claimed a man resembling Longabaugh showed him a bullet wound repaired years earlier, hinting at survival. However, no definitive evidence, such as DNA from the Bolivian remains (tested in 2008 and found inconclusive), confirms these claims. The lack of conclusive records leaves open the possibility that Longabaugh, like Cassidy, may have lived out his days in obscurity.

Legacy in Utah

Harry Alonzo Longabaugh, the Sundance Kid, left an indelible mark on Utah’s history as a key figure in the Wild Bunch. His role in the Castle Gate robbery and his time in Robbers Roost and Browns Park tied him to the state’s rugged outlaw culture. Utah’s canyon country, with its hidden trails and sympathetic communities, provided the perfect backdrop for his escapades, allowing him to evade capture for years. His relationship with Etta Place, possibly forged in Utah, adds a romantic layer to his legend, while his non-violent approach and charisma made him a folk hero alongside Cassidy.

In Utah, the Sundance Kid’s legacy endures through historical sites like the Cassidy Trail in Red Canyon and the Robbers Roost region in Capitol Reef National Park, where visitors seek traces of the Wild Bunch’s hideouts. The 1969 film, while taking liberties with historical accuracy, immortalized Longabaugh as a dashing outlaw, cementing his place in popular culture. In Utah, he is remembered as a skilled and elusive figure who navigated the state’s wild terrain, leaving behind a legacy of adventure and defiance in the waning days of the Old West.

Robert LeRoy Parker

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Robert LeRoy Parker, born April 13, 1866, in Beaver, Utah Territory, was better known as Butch Cassidy, the infamous American outlaw, train robber, and leader of the Wild Bunch gang. Raised in a Mormon pioneer family near Circleville, Utah, he adopted the alias “Butch Cassidy” to distance himself from his family’s name after taking up a life of crime. His early mentor, rustler Mike Cassidy, influenced his path, and he earned the nickname “Butch” while working briefly as a butcher in Wyoming.

Cassidy became notorious in the late 1880s and 1890s for leading the Wild Bunch, a gang responsible for a string of daring bank and train robberies across the western United States, including the 1897 Castle Gate payroll heist in Utah and the 1899 Wilcox train robbery in Wyoming. Known for his charisma, meticulous planning, and non-violent approach—avoiding killing during robberies—he gained a “Robin Hood” reputation, often sharing stolen money with local communities. He operated out of hideouts like Robbers Roost in Utah and Hole-in-the-Wall in Wyoming.

Early Life and Background

Robert LeRoy Parker, later known as Butch Cassidy, was born on April 13, 1866, in Beaver, Utah Territory, to Mormon pioneer parents, Maximillian Parker and Ann Campbell Gillies. As the eldest of thirteen children, Robert grew up in a devout family of English immigrants who had converted to The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in the United Kingdom. His parents arrived in Utah in the 1850s, with Maximillian crossing the plains in 1856 at age twelve and Ann immigrating in 1859 at fourteen. They married in 1865, settling on a ranch near Circleville, Utah, by 1879, when Robert was thirteen.

The Parker family’s homestead, a modest two-room cabin south of Circleville, was where Robert, known as Roy to family and friends, spent his formative teenage years. Despite his religious upbringing, young Roy showed early signs of restlessness and a disinterest in church attendance. Working on local ranches to support his large family, he encountered Mike Cassidy, a cowhand and small-time cattle rustler, at Jim Marshall’s ranch twelve miles south of Circleville. Mike became a mentor, teaching Roy horsemanship and marksmanship, skills that would later define his outlaw career. To distance himself from his family’s reputable name, Roy adopted the surname Cassidy, likely in honor of his mentor, and later earned the nickname “Butch” from a stint as a butcher’s apprentice in Rock Springs, Wyoming.

Early Brushes with the Law

Roy’s first recorded run-in with the law occurred around 1880, at a young age, when he entered a closed clothing shop in another town, took a pair of jeans and a pie, and left an IOU promising to pay later. Though he intended to settle the debt, the shopkeeper pressed charges. Roy was acquitted at trial, but the incident marked the beginning of his friction with authority. By 1884, at age eighteen, Roy left Circleville, disillusioned by his family’s loss of land in a property rights dispute and seeking greater opportunities. He drifted to Telluride, Colorado, working as a mule-skinner in silver mines and possibly delivering stolen horses, a path that led him toward a life of crime.

The Outlaw Trail and the Wild Bunch

In 1889, at age twenty-three, Roy—now Butch Cassidy—committed his first major crime: the robbery of the San Miguel Valley Bank in Telluride, Colorado, alongside Matt Warner and two McCarty brothers. The group stole approximately $21,000 (equivalent to about $735,000 in 2024), fleeing to Robbers Roost, a remote hideout in southeastern Utah’s rugged canyon country. This marked Butch’s entry into the Outlaw Trail, a loosely connected network of hideouts stretching from Mexico to Montana, including Robbers Roost, Hole-in-the-Wall in Wyoming, and Browns Park near the Utah-Colorado-Wyoming border.

The forth Worth Five Photograph - Front row left to right: Harry A. Longabaugh, alias the Sundance Kid; Ben Kilpatrick, alias the Tall Texan; Robert Leroy Parker, alias Butch Cassidy. Standing: Will Carver & Harvey Logan, alias Kid Curry; Fort Worth, Texas, 1900.
The forth Worth Five Photograph – Front row left to right: Harry A. Longabaugh, alias the Sundance Kid; Ben Kilpatrick, alias the Tall Texan; Robert Leroy Parker, alias Butch Cassidy. Standing: Will Carver & Harvey Logan, alias Kid Curry; Fort Worth, Texas, 1900.

By the mid-1890s, Butch had formed the Wild Bunch, a loosely organized gang of outlaws that included Harry Longabaugh (the Sundance Kid), Elzy Lay, Harvey Logan (Kid Curry), Ben Kilpatrick (the Tall Texan), and others. Known for their charisma and meticulous planning, the Wild Bunch executed a series of daring bank and train robberies across the western United States. In Utah, Butch and his gang became local legends, often hiding out in Robbers Roost and Browns Park, where sympathetic ranchers provided shelter and supplies. Butch’s reputation as a “Robin Hood of the West” grew from stories of him sharing stolen money with the poor, a strategy that ensured community support and protection.

A notable Utah exploit occurred on April 21, 1897, when Butch, the Sundance Kid, and Elzy Lay robbed the Pleasant Valley Coal Company payroll in Castle Gate, Utah. Posing as bystanders, they stole $7,000 in silver coins in broad daylight without firing a shot, escaping to Robbers Roost. This heist, one of the largest payroll robberies in the Old West, cemented their notoriety. Another significant robbery took place on August 13, 1896, when Butch and Elzy Lay hit the Bank of Montpelier in Idaho, reportedly to raise funds to bail out Matt Warner. They escaped with loot, evading a posse led by Sheriff Jefferson Davis.

Butch’s time in Utah was not solely about crime. He cultivated a reputation for charm and non-violence, paying for meals and horses and avoiding killing during robberies. In Browns Park, he and the Wild Bunch were known for their generosity, even hosting a lavish Thanksgiving dinner in the mid-1890s at the Davenport ranch, complete with roast turkey and pumpkin pie, served to thirty-five locals. Such acts endeared him to communities resentful of wealthy cattle barons.

Legal Troubles and Imprisonment

In 1894, Butch was arrested in Wyoming for horse theft, a charge stemming from his rustling activities. He served two years in the Wyoming State Penitentiary in Laramie, from 1894 to 1896. His time in prison did little to deter him; upon release, he resumed his criminal career with renewed vigor, organizing the Wild Bunch for their most prolific period. However, the increasing presence of law enforcement and the Pinkerton Detective Agency, hired by railroad companies, made evading capture more difficult.

Life in Utah’s Outlaw Havens

Utah’s rugged terrain provided ideal hideouts for Butch and the Wild Bunch. Robbers Roost, located between the Colorado, Green, and Dirty Devil Rivers, was a labyrinth of canyons where outlaws could disappear. Browns Park, a remote enclave along the Green River, offered another safe haven, where ranchers like the Carlisle family provided jobs and cover. Butch’s ability to blend into these communities, coupled with his genial demeanor, allowed him to operate with relative impunity for years. His romantic involvement with Ann Bassett, a Browns Park rancher’s daughter, further tied him to the region, with some speculating she was Etta Place, the Sundance Kid’s companion.

Escape to South America

By 1901, the Wild Bunch was unraveling under pressure from relentless manhunts. With bounties on their heads and Pinkerton detectives closing in, Butch, the Sundance Kid, and Etta Place fled to New York City, then sailed to Buenos Aires, Argentina, on February 20, 1901. Posing as James Ryan, Butch settled with his companions in a four-room log cabin on a 15,000-acre ranch near Cholila, Chubut. They attempted a legitimate life, raising 300 cattle, 1,500 sheep, and 28 horses, as noted in a 1902 letter Butch wrote to Elzy Lay’s mother-in-law. However, by 1906, they returned to banditry, robbing banks and trains across South America.

The Mystery of Butch Cassidy’s Fate

The traditional narrative holds that Butch and Sundance died in a shootout with the Bolivian Army on November 7, 1908, near San Vicente, Bolivia. After robbing a mine payroll, they were cornered in a boarding house, where a firefight ended with two gunshots, presumed to be suicides. However, the exact circumstances remain uncertain, fueling speculation that Butch survived. Family members, including his sister Lula Parker Betenson, claimed he returned to Circleville in 1925, visiting family and sharing stories of his exploits. Others, including residents of Utah and Wyoming, reported sightings of Butch in the 1930s, living under aliases like William T. Phillips, a Spokane engineer who wrote an unpublished manuscript, The Bandit Invincible, believed by some to be Butch’s autobiography.

Historian Larry Pointer, in In Search of Butch Cassidy, argues that Butch faked his death in Bolivia, underwent facial surgery in Paris, and lived quietly in Washington until 1937. A 1930s account from a Utah doctor, Francis Smith, claimed Butch showed him a repaired bullet wound, supporting the survival theory. However, other historians, like Charles Kelly, found it odd that Butch never visited his father, Maximillian, who died in 1938, if he were alive. DNA tests in 2008 on remains exhumed in Bolivia failed to confirm Butch’s identity, leaving the mystery unresolved.

Legacy in Utah

Butch Cassidy’s legend looms large in Utah, where his boyhood home in Circleville remains a historical site, restored and open to visitors. The Cassidy Trail in Red Canyon and the Robbers Roost region in Capitol Reef National Park attract adventurers seeking traces of his life, including rumors of buried treasure from the Castle Gate robbery. His story, romanticized in the 1969 film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, starring Paul Newman and Robert Redford, has cemented his status as a folk hero. In Utah, he is celebrated as a charismatic outlaw who challenged powerful institutions, embodying the rebellious spirit of the Old West.

Butch’s reputation as a “gentleman criminal” stems from his non-violent approach and generosity. Stories of him aiding poor families, like the Thanksgiving feast in Browns Park, and his refusal to harm victims during robberies, earned him admiration. His connection to Utah’s rugged landscapes and communities, from Circleville to Robbers Roost, makes him a central figure in the state’s cultural and folklore heritage. Whether he died in Bolivia or lived on in obscurity, Butch Cassidy’s legacy as Utah’s “Robin Hood of the West” endures.

Spring Canyon Bottom Road

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Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

Spring Canyon Bottom Road is a rugged, scenic off-road trail in the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park, Utah, offering a thrilling descent into the park’s dramatic backcountry. This 12.2-mile one-way route (24.4 miles round-trip) connects Dubinky Well Road, just outside the park, to the Green River and the Hey Joe Canyon trailhead, descending via steep switchbacks into Spring Canyon. Best suited for high-clearance 4WD vehicles and experienced mountain bikers, hiking is possible but rare due to the trail’s length, exposure, and technical terrain. The road traverses a stark desert landscape of sandstone cliffs, sandy washes, and open flats, with sweeping views of the Green River, distant La Sal Mountains, and the canyon’s sheer walls. Rated as easy to moderate (technical rating 2) for 4WD vehicles and bikes when conditions are dry, the trail features tight switchbacks, rocky sections, and potential rockslides, with an elevation drop of about 1,500 feet from 5,500 to 4,000 feet. The journey takes approximately 1-2 hours by vehicle or 3-5 hours by bike, with hiking times varying significantly.

The trail begins at an unmarked junction off Dubinky Well Road, accessed from Highway 313, about 11 miles north of Moab and 1.5 miles past a rest area (38.6650, -109.7800). It enters Canyonlands National Park after 1.5 miles, where park rules and a $30 vehicle entry fee apply (payable at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center or online at recreation.gov). Key features include the dramatic switchbacks descending into Spring Canyon, primitive campsites along the canyon bottom, and access to the Green River and Hey Joe Canyon. Spring and fall are ideal for travel, as summer heat exceeds 100°F, and winter or post-rain conditions increase risks of rockslides and muddy washes. Flash flooding is a concern, and portable toilets are required for camping due to environmental regulations.

Trail Details

  • Length: 12.2 miles one-way (24.4 miles round-trip).
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate for 4WD vehicles and mountain bikes (technical rating 2); strenuous for hikers due to distance, exposure, and uneven terrain.
  • Elevation Change: Approximately 1,500 feet descent; altitude ranges from 5,500 to 4,000 feet.
  • Terrain: Dirt, gravel, sandy washes, slickrock, and tight switchbacks with rocky sections. High-clearance 4WD required; OHVs, ATVs, and UTVs are prohibited in the park.
  • Access: Start at the junction with Dubinky Well Road (38.6650, -109.7800), reached via Highway 313. A park entry fee ($30 per vehicle) is required, and timed entry reservations may apply April 1–October 31, 2025, from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
  • Features: Scenic switchbacks, views of Spring Canyon and Green River, primitive campsites (backcountry permit required), and access to Hey Joe Canyon trailhead. No dinosaur tracks are noted on this route.
  • Challenges: Tight switchbacks requiring multi-point turns for larger vehicles (e.g., full-size trucks), deep sand, and potential rockslides after rain. No shade, limited cell coverage, and flash flooding risks in washes. Pets are not allowed off roads, and motorcycles must be street-legal.
  • Amenities: No facilities on the trail. Closest amenities are at the Island in the Sky Visitor Center (water March–October, restrooms) or Willow Flat Campground (vault toilets). Bring ample water, sunscreen, and a detailed map (e.g., National Geographic’s Trails Illustrated Canyonlands).

Hiking and Biking Notes

Hiking Spring Canyon Bottom Road is uncommon due to its 24.4-mile round-trip length, lack of shade, and technical terrain, making it a strenuous endeavor best suited for cooler months (March–May or September–November). The route follows the road, with firm footing on dirt and slickrock but no dedicated trail, and hikers must navigate sandy washes and rocky sections. Mountain biking is more popular, offering a challenging ride through varied terrain, though deep sand and steep switchbacks may require dismounting. Cyclists must stay on designated roads to protect the fragile desert ecosystem, including cryptobiotic soil, and yield to vehicles. The trail’s highlight is the descent through the switchbacks, offering breathtaking views of the canyon’s sheer walls and the Green River. Primitive campsites along the canyon bottom require a backcountry permit and portable toilet. Hikers and bikers should carry ample water, navigation tools (GPS or map), and sun protection, as trail markers are minimal, and the remote landscape can be disorienting.

Trail Map

History and Significance

Spring Canyon Bottom Road’s history is tied to the geologic and cultural evolution of Canyonlands National Park, established in 1964 to preserve the region’s dramatic landscape carved by the Green and Colorado rivers. The road’s path through Spring Canyon showcases the Entrada Sandstone, formed 165 million years ago from Jurassic dune fields, and the underlying Paradox Formation, a 300-million-year-old salt bed that caused fracturing and collapse, shaping the canyon’s steep walls and fins. This geologic legacy, driven by uplift and erosion, makes the road a vital access route to the park’s backcountry, offering a glimpse into its ancient past.

Historically, the region around Spring Canyon was inhabited by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan peoples until about 700 years ago, with rock art and ruins in nearby areas like the Needles District attesting to their presence. Spanish missionaries encountered Ute and Paiute tribes in 1775, and Mormon settlers briefly established the Elk Mountain Mission in Moab in 1855, abandoning it due to harsh conditions. Spring Canyon Bottom Road likely originated as a ranching or exploration route in the late 19th or early 20th century, used by prospectors and cattlemen navigating the rugged terrain. The area saw uranium prospecting in the 1950s, contributing to the park’s creation, as figures like Bates Wilson, the first superintendent, advocated for its protection after exploring the region’s canyons.

The road’s significance lies in its role as a remote access route to the Green River and Hey Joe Canyon, offering solitude and adventure in a less-visited part of the Island in the Sky District. Its switchbacks and canyon-bottom campsites reflect the park’s “Wild West” character, as described by author Edward Abbey, who called Canyonlands “the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth.” The road’s proximity to the Green River connects it to the legacy of John Wesley Powell, whose 1869 expedition down the Green and Colorado rivers helped map the region. Today, the National Park Service manages the road to balance recreation with preservation, enforcing strict regulations to protect the delicate desert ecosystem, including requirements for portable toilets and permits for camping. Spring Canyon Bottom Road remains a cherished route for off-roaders and cyclists seeking an immersive experience in Canyonlands’ untamed beauty.

Willow Springs Road

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Willow Springs Road offers a rugged, scenic route into the western edge of Arches National Park, providing a quieter, less-traveled alternative to the park’s main entrance. Stretching approximately 7.9 miles from Highway 191 to its terminus at Balanced Rock on the park’s paved road, this dirt and slickrock trail is a backdoor adventure best suited for high-clearance 4WD vehicles, mountain bikes, or determined hikers. The trail winds through a starkly beautiful desert landscape, flanked by sandstone fins, scattered boulders, and distant views of iconic formations like the Windows Section and La Sal Mountains.

A less popular view of Balancing Rock in Arches National Park
A less popular view of Balancing Rock in Arches National Park

Highlights include dinosaur tracks preserved in the rock, expansive vistas of the park’s backcountry, and a sense of solitude rare in this popular park. The trail is rated as easy to moderate for 4WD vehicles and bikes, with challenges like sandy washes, small rock ledges, and occasional washboard sections. Hikers face a longer, exposed journey, with no shade and minimal elevation gain (approximately 500 feet). The trail takes about 30-45 minutes by vehicle or 2-3 hours by bike, with hiking times varying based on pace and stops.

Starting from Highway 191, about 11.5 miles north of Moab (near milepost 138.6), the trailhead is marked by a sign for Willow Springs Road. The first 3.8 miles traverse UtahRaptor State Park (formerly BLM land), passing dispersed camping areas and the Klonzo Trail System, popular for mountain biking. A large sign marks the Arches National Park boundary, where park rules apply, including a required entrance fee (payable at the main entrance or online at recreation.gov). From here, the road narrows, becoming rougher with sandy and rocky sections, and continues 4 miles to Balanced Rock. A notable stop at 3.5 miles from Highway 191 is the dinosaur track site, where well-marked theropod (raptor-like) and sauropod (brontosaurus-like) footprints, dating back 165 million years, are preserved in the Entrada Sandstone. The trail ends at a paved junction, offering access to park highlights like the Windows Section and Double Arch.

Trail Details

  • Length: 7.9 miles one-way (15.8 miles round-trip if returning to Highway 191).
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate for 4WD vehicles and mountain bikes; moderate for hikers due to distance and exposure.
  • Elevation Gain: Approximately 500 feet, with gentle undulations.
  • Terrain: Dirt, gravel, slickrock, sandy washes, small rock ledges, and washboard sections. High-clearance 4WD required beyond the park boundary; 2WD vehicles can manage the first 3.8 miles to the boundary with caution.
  • Access: From Highway 191, turn east onto Willow Springs Road (38.696712, -109.698675). No pay booth at this entrance; park fees apply upon exiting or via online purchase. Timed entry reservations are required April 1–October 31, 2025.
  • Features: Dinosaur tracks at 3.5 miles, scenic views of sandstone formations, access to Balanced Rock, and a quiet alternative to the main park entrance.
  • Challenges: Deep sand and rocky sections require careful navigation for vehicles; hikers face long exposure with no shade. Flash flooding is possible in washes after heavy rain. OHVs and ATVs are prohibited in the park.
  • Amenities: Porta-potties and a vault toilet near the trailhead in UtahRaptor State Park; picnic table and outhouses near Balanced Rock. No water is available, so bring plenty.

Trail Map

Hiking and Biking Notes

For hikers, the full 7.9-mile one-way trek to Balanced Rock is a long, exposed journey best undertaken in cooler months (March–November preferred). The trail follows the road, offering firm footing on dirt and slickrock but no dedicated path. Mountain bikers find the route rewarding for its mix of hard-packed rock and sandy challenges, with stunning views of the park’s formations. Bikers should expect to dismount in deep sand sections and yield to vehicles. Both hikers and bikers should carry ample water, sunscreen, and navigation tools, as cell coverage is spotty near the park boundary. The dinosaur tracks are a must-see, marked by an interpretive sign and a short walk on slickrock.

History and Significance

Willow Springs Road has long served as a lesser-known gateway to Arches National Park, historically used by locals and adventurers seeking to bypass the main entrance’s crowds and toll booth. Its significance lies in its access to the park’s quieter western backcountry, offering a raw, unfiltered experience of the desert landscape. The road’s path through what is now UtahRaptor State Park (established in 2021) connects to a region rich in geologic and paleontological history. The dinosaur tracks, dating to the Jurassic period, highlight the area’s ancient past, when the region was a muddy floodplain roamed by theropods and sauropods. These well-preserved footprints, discovered along the road, are a testament to the area’s significance as a paleontological treasure trove.

Historically, the road was part of a broader network used by ranchers and early explorers, with remnants like an old shed and corral near Willow Springs Canyon hinting at past human activity. The area around Willow Springs was also a corridor for Native American migration routes, with nearby rock art sites, such as petroglyphs and pictographs, suggesting cultural significance for the Anasazi and other Indigenous groups. The road’s proximity to the Klonzo Trail System and its former status as BLM land made it a hub for dispersed camping until recent changes introduced fees and regulations under UtahRaptor State Park management. Its role as a “secret entrance” has made it a favorite among off-roaders and cyclists, though park regulations now emphasize responsible use to protect the fragile desert ecosystem, including cryptobiotic soil.

Willow Springs Road remains a unique portal to Arches, blending adventure, solitude, and a glimpse into the deep geologic and cultural history of the region, making it a cherished route for those seeking an unconventional park experience.

James Hervey Simpson

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James Hervey Simpson (1813–1883) was a U.S. Army topographical engineer whose 1859 survey of the Central Route across the Great Basin, including White Pine County, Nevada, facilitated mail, stage, and telegraph lines, laying the groundwork for the region’s mining development.

James Hervey Simpson (1813–1883)
James Hervey Simpson (1813–1883)

Early Life and Military Beginnings (1813–1838)

James Hervey Simpson was born on March 9, 1813, in New Brunswick, New Jersey, to John Simpson and Mary Brunson. He graduated from the United States Military Academy at West Point in 1832, ranking 27th in his class, and was commissioned as a second lieutenant in the 3rd U.S. Artillery. Simpson served in the Second Seminole War in Florida, earning a promotion to first lieutenant in 1837. In 1838, he transferred to the newly formed U.S. Army Corps of Topographical Engineers, a specialized unit tasked with mapping and infrastructure development, setting the stage for his later contributions in the American West.

Early Western Expeditions (1849–1858)

Simpson’s first major Western expedition came in 1849, when he surveyed a road from Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, under Colonel John James Abert. During this expedition, he also participated in a punitive raid against the Navajo, collaborating with artists Edward and Richard Kern to document the journey through watercolors, oils, and maps. From 1849 to 1850, he served as Chief Topographical Engineer for the Ninth Military Department in Santa Fe. After a six-month sick leave, Simpson was assigned to Minnesota from 1851 to 1856, overseeing road improvements, and was promoted to captain in 1853. Between 1856 and 1858, he worked on coastal surveys in Florida, honing his skills in precise mapping and engineering.

Exploration of White Pine County and the Central Route (1858–1859)

Simpson’s most significant contribution to White Pine County, Nevada, occurred during his 1858–1859 expedition to survey a wagon road across the Great Basin, known as the Central Route. Ordered to support the Utah War, Simpson arrived at Camp Floyd, Utah, in August 1858. On October 19, he began a preliminary reconnaissance into the Great Salt Lake Desert, followed by a major expedition starting May 2, 1859, with 64 men, including photographer Samuel C. Mills, who produced some of the earliest photographs of the region’s features. The expedition aimed to establish a shorter, more efficient route from Camp Floyd to Fort Bridger and onward to California, passing through what would later become White Pine County.

Simpson’s Central Route traversed the Great Basin, including areas near present-day Ely, Nevada, and mapped key landmarks such as the Simpson Park Mountains, named in his honor. His meticulous surveys identified water sources, grazing areas, and viable paths, making the route viable for mail, freight, and passenger transport. In White Pine County, the route crossed the Egan Range and Steptoe Valley, areas later integral to the region’s mining economy. The 1859 Report of Explorations across the Great Basin, published in 1876, detailed his findings, including geological observations, topographical maps, and notes on Native American tribes. This work established the Central Route as a critical artery, adopted by George Chorpenning’s mail and stage line, the Pony Express in 1860, and the Transcontinental Telegraph in 1861, until the Transcontinental Railroad rendered it obsolete in 1869.

Role in White Pine County’s Development

While Simpson’s work predated the major mining booms in White Pine County (e.g., Ward in 1872, Taylor in 1873, and Osceola in 1872, as noted in prior conversations), his Central Route laid the groundwork for later economic development. The route facilitated access to the region, enabling prospectors and settlers to reach the remote mining districts. The Simpson Springs Pony Express Station, located in Utah but part of his surveyed path, underscores his influence on regional connectivity. His surveys also provided early documentation of White Pine County’s terrain, which later supported the Nevada Northern Railway’s expansion under Mark Requa (as discussed in prior conversation), connecting Ely’s copper mines to national markets after 1906.

Civil War and Later Career (1861–1883)

During the Civil War, Simpson served as colonel of the 4th New Jersey Volunteer Infantry and was captured at the Battle of Gaines’s Mill in 1862. After being paroled, he resigned his volunteer commission and reverted to his regular rank of major in the Corps of Topographical Engineers. He was assigned to the Department of the Ohio, overseeing fortifications in Cincinnati. In 1865, he was brevetted lieutenant colonel and colonel for meritorious service. After the war, Simpson was promoted to major in 1863 and served as chief engineer of the Interior Department, overseeing infrastructure projects, including aspects of the Transcontinental Railroad’s construction, which ultimately superseded his Central Route. He retired to St. Paul, Minnesota, in 1880 and died there on March 2, 1883, at age 69.

Legacy in White Pine County

Simpson’s legacy in White Pine County lies in his pioneering survey of the Central Route, which enhanced accessibility and set the stage for the region’s mining boom. The Simpson Park Mountains in central Nevada, the Simpson Mountains in Utah, and Simpson Springs Pony Express Station bear his name, reflecting his lasting impact. His 1859 expedition reports, enriched with Kern brothers’ artwork and Mills’ photographs, remain valuable historical records of the Great Basin’s geography and Native American cultures. While the Nevada Northern Railway, established later by Mark Requa, became the region’s primary transportation artery, Simpson’s earlier work provided critical groundwork for White Pine County’s integration into national trade and communication networks.

Conclusion

James Hervey Simpson’s contributions to White Pine County, though less celebrated than those of later figures like Mark Requa, were foundational to its development. His 1859 survey of the Central Route opened the Great Basin to reliable travel and commerce, enabling the mining booms that defined White Pine County’s history. As a topographical engineer, Simpson combined scientific precision with practical vision, leaving a legacy preserved in place names, historical records, and the region’s enduring connectivity to the broader American West.

Sources

  • Navajo Expedition: Journal of a Military Reconnaissance from Santa Fe, New Mexico to the Navajo Country, Made in 1849 by James H. Simpson, edited by Durwood Ball and Frank McNitt (University of Oklahoma Press, 2003).
  • Report of Explorations across the Great Basin in 1859 by James H. Simpson (University of Nevada Press, 1983).
  • Dictionary of American Biography, Vol. IX, p. 179.
  • Utah Place Names by J.W. Van Cott (University of Utah Press, 1990).
  • Nevada State Historical Markers, White Pine County.