Alamo Road

Alamo Road and parts beyond
Alamo Road and parts beyond. Photo by James L Rathbun

The Alamo Road is the central route north through the Desert National Wildlife Refuge north of Las Vegas.  The Route leaves from Corn Creek and winds north over Sheep Pass and into the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge.  There are many spur trails to explore and several primitive campsites to spend the night.

This road travels just along the eastern boundary of the Nevada Test & Training Range.  Entry into this area is prohibited, so do not travel west from this trail. There are several other shorter trails which leaves Alamo trail toward the east to several side canyons.

The trail is very remote and covers a good distance. The last time we did this trail, cell service died rather quickly outside of Corn Creek. So, be prepared and pack appropriately. I have a CB and a 2M ham radio in the jeep for just such an occasion.

Alamo Road offers access to the following Las Vegas 4×4 Trails:

  • Joe May Road
  • Cow Creek Road
  • Hidden Forest Road
  • White Rock Road
  • Dead Horse Road
  • Sheep Pass
  • Cabin Spring Road

The Mormon Well Road also starts from Corn Creek.

Alamo Road Trail Map

Mormon Wells Road

Entering Peek-a-boo Canyon on the Mormon Wells Road.
Entering Peek-a-boo Canyon on the Mormon Wells Road.

The Mormon Well Road is a long, rough, dirt road that runs across the Desert National Wildlife Range from Corn Creek to Highway 93. The road runs across the desert and over the mountains through some spectacular country, including towering limestone cliffs; broad, flat valleys; and narrow, winding canyons. The road runs through several desert vegetation life zones, starting in the very dry (stunted) Mojave Desert Scrub Zone and climbing to the Yellow Pine (Ponderosa Pine) Zone.

The sign post points the way to the Mormon Well Road and parts beyond.
The sign post points the way to the Mormon Well Road and parts beyond.

There are primitive campsites at the top of the Pine Nut Road. This location offers a wonder view of the valley, and there are three distinct large camping spots and perhaps one smaller site which is probably only used as an overflow.

A Beavertail cactus about to go into a full bloom.
A Beavertail cactus about to go into a full bloom.

The variety of life zones provides many different habitats for birds and other wildlife.

The Wildlife Refuge used to maintain their roads, but in recent years, funding for maintenance has been directed towards other things (for example, building an unnecessary and expensive new visitor center). As a result, all roads on the DNWR are deteriorating, and during the summer of 2010, the north end of the Mormon Well Road suffered flooding. From the campground north, the road is quite rough, but passable in a 4WD vehicle.

Watching the sunset while we air up after a long day on the trail.
Watching the sunset while we air up after a long day on the trail.

Mormon Wells Road Trail Map

White Top Mountain

White Top Mountain road is located off of Hunter Mountain Road, in Death Valley National Park, California. A hilly and mountainous road connecting the Hidden Valley road to the White Top mining area district.

White Top Mountain Road view from the Lost Burrow Mine Road, Death Valley, CA
White Top Mountain Road view from the Lost Burrow Mine Road, Death Valley, CA

The road is approximately 11 miles in length and has an elevation gain from 4800 feet above sea level to 7000 feet. High clearance 4WD is recommended when wheeling this trail. The route is passable to high clearance 2WD in the first 5 miles. Beyond that distance, the NPS recommends high clearance 4WD because of 3 relatively small dry falls, 12-24″.

Travel beyond Burro Spring Junction is not recommended when wet or snow covered during winter months.

Once near the top of the trai, the Huntley Mining operations are visible.

The Lawrence Asbestos and Fluorspar claims located on the north slope of White Top Mountain two miles northeast of Burro Spring have been explored by several lessees over the years, but have produced only a few hundred tons of asbestos and fluorspar. Much scarring in the area has resulted from dozer prospecting and road building. The property consisted of three fluorspar claims, thirty-two asbestos claims, and a millsite under, location by R.H. Lawrence of Mojave. In 1970s the lessees proposed to develop the fluorspar deposits and ship the ore to Barstow via truck. Today the area consists of bulldozed prospects and a miner’s shack. Wright H. Huntley, pres., Huntley Industrial Minerals, Inc., to T.R. Goodwin,

Death Valley – Historic Resource Study – A History of Mining

White Top Mountain Trail Map

References

Camping Tents

Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.
Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.

My wife and I just got back from a camping trip in Death Valley National Park a few weeks ago.  During this trip, for the first time we used a new “Family Sized” doom tent.  The camping tents sleeps 6 people, is tall enough for me to stand up, came with a rain fly and outside vestibule.  The new tent certainly had it all, which also caused me to think back to all the tents I have used and known.

Pup Tents

The earliest and oldest tent I have used was a 1950’s era pup tent my father used in the Boy Scouts during the late 1950’s.  The tent was nothing more than a piece of green canvas, two polls, wooden stakes and some string.  The tent had no floors and no doors at either end.  I used this tent once when I was about 9 years old, in my back yard.  My dad helped me set it up in our backyard.  From what I remember, it took about  10 hours to set.  Most of this was watching my confused dad trying to remember how it was supposed to work.  As I recall several of the wooden stakes split in the touch enriched soil of our backyard lawn.   Once erected, and musty and the smell of mildew filled the air, but after a few hours it was aired out enough to crawl underneath.  There was only enough room for my sleeping bag, and the tent was just tall enough that I could crawl underneath looking much like a WW2 G.I. going underneath the barbed wire.

That night, I slept under the “stars” in Los Angeles, CA.  It was a mild fall evening as I recall, yet somehow my dads old pup tent managed to make it colder.  Now having any doors meant that our cat could wander in during the night and scare me, which he did.  I woke up early in the morning, went inside the house and finally got some sleep. I do not know whatever happened to this tent.  It was better than nothing, but just barely.

Out Camping Tent at Homestake Dry Camp - A privative campsite at Racetrack Valley
Homestake Dry Camp – A primative campsite at Racetrack Valley

Family Tents

During the late 70’s my family went camping a lot with my cousins.  I don’t recall the true “owner” of tent, but the group had a family style tent.  This thing was huge and seemed perfectly suited to host a sultan and his harem.  Anyways, this thing was a beast and required a troop of 6 to move it into place.  I know for a fact that when it was collapsed from the previous trip my mom and/or aunt would spend a hour sweeping out all the dust,dirt and grime brought in by four boys,  It always confused me that each time we setup the tent again, we unfolded it to a cloud of dust and it was dirty inside.

These were great tents if weight was no object, but I suspect that these tents would not do well in a breeze yet alone a windy night.  There was a complex exoskeleton of polls which could never be assembled unless you had a masters in engineering.  There was one large door, and a floor, which is a much needed feature over my dads pup tent.  I don’t remember any windows, but I do recall that unlike my dads pup tent which “cooled the air”, this tent always ran HOT.

Modern Pup Tent

Prior to a spot horse packing trip in the early 1980’s.  Dome tents had yet to come into their own.  My folks purchased two pup tents for the trip.  The modern version of the pup tent was constructed with rip stop nylon and did include a floor, short side walls, a closed off back along with a door and screen door.  The tent did not include any sort of rain fly, so my folks made one witch attach using a three inch standoff my dad built on his lathe.  This proved very important as during the trip we were deluged with rain.

Dome Tents

Dome tents have dominated the market since they were introduced to the market.  They range in size from small two man models to large family sized.  They may contain multiple rooms, vestibules and some have a small door to access an ice chest to gain access to a much needed beverage.  All in all they are the best of the best, strong, flexible and lightweight.

There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon
There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon

Many years ago I was camping with a boy scouts at the annual desert caravan, which was a large camp out with scouts from around southern CA.  There were probably 800 campers there that weekend.  The previous year high winds buffeted our campsite, and learning from the previous year I came prepared.  During the day I erected my dome tent which was about six feet tall.  Knowing the winds were coming, I ran a guy wire from each of the polls out 50 feet.  Whenever possible, I would tie it down to a sage bush.  So, I effectively had my tent anchored to the earth in a 50 foot radius all around.  A few of my friends made fun of me for my setup.

And then the winds came….

Throughout the night, the winds howled.  It was far, far worse than any previous year.  It was difficult to sleep with the sound of the wind buffeting the tent.  After a long and sleepless night, I emerged from my tent to discover the damage done by the winds that night.  It wipe out the camp, the entire dessert caravan.  Outhouses were lifted and thrown 100 feet, and broke car windshields.  Worst of all, every tent was broken, torn and shattered by the wind.  Tent poles were split, bowed and broken.  Every tent was wiped out…. except mine.

Old Mojave Road Trip Report

After our recent trip to the center section of the Old Mojave Road, my wife Heather was really excited to run the western section and complete the entire length of the trail. Her idea was to drive the western section on our way to our annual trip to Big Bear, CA over the Memorial Day holiday. I worried that such a trip during this time of year could be a rough trip due to high temperatures in the desert. In late April we finished the center section in Baker, CA and the air temperature was only 107 degrees. Despite my concerns, we gladly planned our trip and embraced her good idea.

Afton Canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.
Afton Canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.

As we prepared for our trip, gathered our gear, food, and checked out the mechanics of the jeep, I decide to check the local weather report. To my surprise, weather.com predicted the temps in the mid 80s with clear sky’s and light wind. The weather could not be any better.


Another interesting development, is that Heather kept offering to drive in the event I got tired of driving. She didn’t just offer once, but several times per day for several days before our departure. Being the good husband that I am, after about twenty or thirty offers, I started to get the idea that, subconsciously, Heather might want to drive this run. So after some arm twisting and bartering, I finally convinced her and Heather agreed to take the wheel. This of course, would be a great source of confusion for me during the trip, however I am certain I can persevere this new dynamic. This is not to imply that Heather is not one of the finest drivers I know, far from it.

An old trail leads off through the lava and into the great unknown.
All packed up, we left the Las Vegas area at 7:00 am on Saturday morning, and headed towards Baker. A quick stop in Baker, we topped off the fuel tank and took our respective bathroom breaks. Once Heather reminded me that she was driving this trip, I took my seat on the right had side of the jeep and we headed down Kelbaker Road.

It took me a few miles, but soon I became used to having my coffee cup on the wrong side, no pedals, eta… This must be what it is like in England. The map and guide-book took some getting used to as well, but somehow I managed to get us to the trail head. It certainly didn’t hurt that we were here just a few weeks before. A quick turn on to the trail, and we stopped to air down the tires for some ride comfort.


After dreaming of this trip for the past few weeks we are finally on our way. We followed the trail around 17 mile point and then turned southwest into the Mojave. The road steadily looses elevation as it cross a fallout zone of lava and start to head down into the valley.

Continue Reading →