Category: Points of Interest

A point of interest is a specific location that attracts visitors due to its cultural, historical, natural, or recreational significance. Typically marked by unique features, it offers an engaging experience, such as scenic views, educational value, or leisure activities. Examples include museums showcasing local heritage, natural landmarks like arches or waterfalls, or historic sites tied to significant events. Often accessible by trails or roads, POIs may provide amenities like visitor centers, guided tours, or interpretive signage, making them ideal for tourists, hikers, or locals seeking exploration and enrichment.

The Three Gossips

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The Three Gossips located in Arches National Park, Utah. Photo by James L Rathbun
The Three Gossips located in Arches National Park, Utah. Photo by James L Rathbun

In the heart of Arches National Park, where the desert sun carves shadows into the rust-hued earth, the Three Gossips stand as silent sentinels of time, their towering forms whispering tales of ancient landscapes. These monolithic sandstone figures rise abruptly from the parched valley floor, their silhouettes evoking the image of three figures huddled in eternal conversation, their voices lost to the wind. Bathed in the golden glow of dawn or the fiery hues of sunset, their surfaces shimmer with a palette of ochre, crimson, and amber, as if the very spirit of the desert has been sculpted into their forms. The play of light and shadow accentuates their rugged contours, giving them an almost lifelike presence—stoic yet animated, as though caught mid-gossip, frozen in a moment of conspiratorial exchange.

Each spire, distinct yet unified, bears the marks of eons: smooth, wind-polished faces juxtaposed with jagged edges where the elements have gnawed away at their resolve. The tallest of the trio stretches skyward, its pinnacle sharp against the boundless blue, while its companions lean slightly, their forms softened by the relentless caress of wind and rare desert rains. Together, they form a natural cathedral, a place where the silence of the desert feels sacred, interrupted only by the occasional cry of a raven or the rustle of tumbleweeds skittering across the sands.

Geology and Formation of the Three Gossips

The Three Gossips stand proudly near Park Avenue, Arches National Park. Photo by James L Rathbun
The Three Gossips stand proudly near Park Avenue, Arches National Park. Photo by James L Rathbun

The Three Gossips are a testament to the geologic artistry of the Colorado Plateau, sculpted from the Entrada Sandstone, a formation laid down approximately 165 million years ago during the Jurassic period. This sandstone, born from ancient desert dunes and intermittent shallow seas, is composed primarily of fine-grained quartz cemented by calcium carbonate and iron oxides, which lend the rock its vibrant red and orange tones. The monument’s creation is a story of deposition, uplift, and erosion—a slow dance of geologic forces spanning millions of years.

Initially, the Entrada Sandstone was deposited as vast dune fields in an arid environment, with grains of sand carried by wind and cemented over time into solid rock. Tectonic forces associated with the uplift of the Colorado Plateau, beginning around 70 million years ago, elevated these sedimentary layers, exposing them to the elements. Erosion, driven by wind, water, and temperature fluctuations, became the master sculptor. The Three Gossips owe their distinct forms to differential erosion, where softer, less resistant layers of sandstone were worn away faster than the more durable sections, leaving behind the towering spires we see today.

The monument’s location within Arches National Park, near the Courthouse Towers, places it in a landscape shaped by faulting and salt tectonics. Beneath the surface, a thick layer of Paradox Formation salt, deposited 300 million years ago, shifted and dissolved, causing the overlying rock to fracture and collapse. These fractures allowed water to seep in, further eroding the sandstone into isolated towers and fins. The Three Gossips, standing as erosional remnants, are part of this dynamic process, their shapes continually refined by the desert’s unrelenting forces.

Today, the Three Gossips remain a striking example of nature’s ability to craft beauty from endurance, their forms a fleeting moment in the geologic saga of Arches National Park, destined to evolve as the desert continues its patient work of creation and destruction.

The Three Gossips in the movies

The Three Gossips, a distinctive rock formation in Arches National Park’s Courthouse Towers area, has appeared in a few films, leveraging its striking silhouette for cinematic backdrops. Based on available information, here is a list of movies that feature or were filmed in the vicinity of the Three Gossips:

  • Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (1989): The opening sequence, set in 1912, features young Indiana Jones (River Phoenix) in Arches National Park. The Three Gossips is visible from the main park road during scenes where the scout troop rides through the desert, near the Courthouse Towers and The Organ.
  • Thelma & Louise (1991): Several scenes were filmed in and around Arches National Park, including the Courthouse Towers area where the Three Gossips is located. A notable scene involves the protagonists locking a state trooper in his car’s trunk, with the Three Gossips and surrounding formations as a backdrop.

Horseshoe Bend

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Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop.

Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop. Situated within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, it offers breathtaking views from a steep, 1,000-foot (300-meter) cliff overlooking the emerald-green waters below, framed by rugged, reddish desert cliffs. The overlook is accessible via a short, 1.5-mile round-trip hike from a parking area off U.S. Route 89, making it a popular destination for visitors to northern Arizona. The site is renowned for its striking beauty, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the vibrant colors of the canyon and river. Horseshoe Bend attracts photographers, nature enthusiasts, and tourists, drawing over two million visitors annually, though its popularity has led to increased management efforts to protect the fragile desert environment. Always stay on designated trails and respect safety barriers due to the sheer drop.

Horseshoe Bend, located near Page, Arizona, is a stunning example of a geological phenomenon known as a meander, where a river curves dramatically, creating a near-circular loop that resembles the shape of a horseshoe. This iconic feature along the Colorado River showcases the intricate interplay of geological processes, water flow, and time. Below is a detailed description of how rivers form bends like Horseshoe Bend, exploring the processes, conditions, and forces involved.

What is a Meander?

A meander is a sinuous, looping bend in a river’s course, often formed in relatively flat or gently sloping landscapes. Unlike straight river channels, which are rare in nature, meanders develop as a river seeks the path of least resistance across a landscape, eroding and depositing sediment in a dynamic process. Horseshoe Bend is an entrenched meander, meaning it is deeply incised into the bedrock, creating a dramatic, steep-walled canyon around the river’s curve.

Formation of Meanders

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend involves several key processes, driven by the interaction of water flow, sediment transport, and the geological characteristics of the landscape.

Initial River Flow and Instability

Rivers naturally develop small irregularities in their channels due to variations in the terrain, such as slight depressions, obstacles like rocks or vegetation, or differences in soil and rock resistance. These irregularities disrupt the river’s flow, causing water to move faster on one side of the channel than the other. This differential flow sets the stage for meander development:

  • Faster Flow on the Outside: Water moves more quickly along the outer edge of a developing bend due to centrifugal force, much like a car taking a curve. This faster flow erodes the outer bank, carving it away.
  • Slower Flow on the Inside: On the inner side of the bend, water slows down, allowing sediment to settle and form a depositional feature called a point bar.

This erosion on the outer bank and deposition on the inner bank amplify the bend over time, causing the river to curve more dramatically.

Feedback Loop of Erosion and Deposition

As the river continues to flow, the meander grows through a self-reinforcing feedback loop:

  • The faster-moving water on the outer bank erodes material, deepening and widening the curve.
  • The eroded sediment is carried downstream and deposited on the inner bank, where the flow is slower, building up the point bar.
  • This process causes the meander to migrate laterally across the floodplain, with the bend becoming more pronounced.

Role of Sediment and Flow Dynamics

The type and amount of sediment a river carries influence meander formation. Rivers with a high sediment load, like the Colorado River, can deposit significant material on point bars, which helps stabilize the inner curve. Meanwhile, the river’s velocity and volume determine its erosive power. Seasonal variations, such as snowmelt or heavy rains, can increase the river’s flow, accelerating erosion and reshaping the meander.

Entrenched Meanders and Horseshoe Bend

The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend
The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend

Horseshoe Bend is not a typical meander found on a flat floodplain but an entrenched meander, which forms when a river cuts deeply into bedrock. This process is particularly pronounced in the Colorado Plateau, where Horseshoe Bend is located. Here’s how it happens:

Uplift of the Colorado Plateau

The Colorado Plateau, a region of relatively flat-lying sedimentary rocks, has been uplifted over millions of years due to tectonic forces. As the plateau rose, the Colorado River, which was already flowing across the region, began to incise downward into the bedrock to maintain its course. This process is called downcutting.

Preservation of Meander Shape

As the river cut downward, it retained the sinuous meander pattern it had developed on a flatter landscape millions of years ago. Instead of eroding laterally across a floodplain (as meanders typically do), the river eroded vertically into the resistant sandstone of the Navajo Formation, creating steep canyon walls. This results in an entrenched meander, where the river’s looping path is preserved but now confined within a deep, narrow canyon.

Geological Context of Horseshoe Bend

At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River has carved a canyon approximately 1,000 feet (300 meters) deep into the Glen Canyon Group, primarily composed of Navajo Sandstone. The river’s path forms a near-perfect U-shape, with the water flowing around a central rock promontory. The steep, vertical walls of the canyon highlight the river’s erosive power and the resistance of the surrounding rock, which prevents significant lateral migration of the meander.

Specific Features of Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend’s dramatic appearance is the result of several unique factors:

  • Geological Setting: The Navajo Sandstone, a thick layer of cross-bedded sandstone formed from ancient desert dunes, is highly resistant to erosion. This resistance allows the canyon walls to remain steep and well-defined, enhancing the visual impact of the bend.
  • River Dynamics: The Colorado River carries a significant sediment load, including sand and gravel, which aids in both erosion (by scouring the bedrock) and deposition (building point bars). The river’s high flow during spring snowmelt or after heavy rains increases its erosive capacity.
  • Time Scale: The formation of Horseshoe Bend has taken millions of years. The Colorado River began incising into the Colorado Plateau around 5–6 million years ago, following regional uplift. The meander itself likely began forming much earlier, when the river flowed across a flatter landscape, and was later entrenched as the plateau rose.

Ongoing Evolution of Meanders

Meanders like Horseshoe Bend are not static; they continue to evolve over time:

  • Meander Migration: Although entrenched meanders are constrained by bedrock, slow lateral erosion can still occur, causing the bend to shift slightly over geological time.
  • Neck Cutoff: In some cases, a meander can become so tight that the river erodes through the narrow neck of land separating two parts of the loop, forming a cutoff and abandoning the meander as an oxbow lake. However, at Horseshoe Bend, the resistant bedrock makes a cutoff unlikely in the near future.
  • Canyon Deepening: The Colorado River continues to downcut, deepening the canyon and making the walls of Horseshoe Bend even more dramatic over time.

Environmental and Human Factors

  • Climate and Water Flow: The arid climate of northern Arizona limits vegetation, which reduces bank stabilization and allows the river to erode the bedrock more freely. Human interventions, such as the construction of Glen Canyon Dam upstream, have altered the Colorado River’s flow and sediment transport, potentially affecting the rate of erosion at Horseshoe Bend.
  • Tourism and Preservation: Horseshoe Bend is a popular tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors annually. The overlook, perched 4,200 feet above sea level, offers a breathtaking view of the 270-degree river bend below. Efforts to manage tourism, such as designated trails and parking areas, help protect the fragile desert environment and prevent erosion of the canyon rim.

Why Horseshoe Bend is Unique

Horseshoe Bend stands out due to its combination of geological, hydrological, and aesthetic factors:

  • Scale and Symmetry: The near-perfect U-shape and the sheer scale of the canyon (1,000 feet deep and 0.6 miles wide at the bend) make it visually striking.
  • Contrast: The emerald-green waters of the Colorado River contrast vividly with the red and orange hues of the Navajo Sandstone, creating a photogenic landscape.
  • Geological Story: Horseshoe Bend tells a story of millions of years of uplift, erosion, and river dynamics, offering a window into the geological history of the Colorado Plateau.

Conclusion

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend is a testament to the power of water, time, and geological processes. Starting as subtle curves in a river’s path, meanders grow through the interplay of erosion and deposition, amplified by the river’s flow and the landscape’s characteristics. At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River’s entrenched meander, carved into resistant Navajo Sandstone, creates a dramatic and iconic feature. This natural wonder continues to evolve, shaped by the relentless flow of the river and the geological forces of the Colorado Plateau, captivating visitors with its beauty and offering geologists a striking example of the Earth’s dynamic processes.

Cobre nevada

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Cobre is a former railroad town and ghost town located in northeastern Elko County, Nevada, approximately 39 miles northeast of Wells and near the interchange of major rail lines in the early 20th century. The name “Cobre” derives from the Spanish word for “copper,” reflecting its primary purpose as a transportation hub for copper ore extracted from mines in the Ely area of White Pine County, over 140 miles to the south. Unlike a traditional mining camp, Cobre itself had no significant local mining operations; it existed solely to facilitate the transfer and shipment of copper via rail. Today, it stands as a quiet, largely abandoned site emblematic of Nevada’s boom-and-bust railroad and mining era.

Founding and Early Development (1905–1910)

Cobre emerged in 1905–1906 during the construction of the Nevada Northern Railway (NNRY), a line built specifically to connect the burgeoning copper mining district around Ely, Nevada, to the national railroad network. The Guggenheim family’s Nevada Consolidated Copper Company (formed from mergers including the White Pine Copper Company and others) financed the NNRY to transport ore from mines and smelters in the Robinson Mining District near Ely.

Rather than connecting from the closer town of Wells, the NNRY chose a junction point on the Southern Pacific Railroad (SPR) mainline at what became Cobre. Construction began southward from this point on September 11, 1905, under contract with the Utah Construction Company. Rails were laid starting in December 1905, and regular operations commenced in 1906.

The town quickly took shape as a rail interchange and service point:

  • A post office opened on March 12, 1906.
  • Facilities included section houses for railroad workers, a hotel, mercantile stores, saloons, and freight handling infrastructure.
  • In 1906, the Western Pacific Railroad temporarily headquartered in Cobre during its construction phase, sparking a brief boom.

By 1910, Cobre reached its peak with around 60 residents, three bars, and a reputation for rowdiness and violence typical of remote railroad towns.

Peak Operations and Role in Copper Transport (1910s–1970s)

Cobre’s economy revolved entirely around the railroad. Copper ore from Ely-area mines (primarily operated by Nevada Consolidated, later acquired by Kennecott Copper Corporation in the 1930s) was shipped north via the NNRY to Cobre, where it transferred to Southern Pacific (and later Western Pacific) trains for shipment to smelters elsewhere.

The town supported:

  • Railroad maintenance crews.
  • Freighting operations.
  • Basic amenities like stores and a hotel.

World War I and post-war demand for copper sustained activity, though fluctuations in copper prices caused periodic slowdowns. The line also briefly connected to the Western Pacific at Shafter, enhancing Cobre’s role as a key interchange.

Decline and Abandonment (1950s–1980s)

The post-World War II era brought irreversible changes:

  • Diesel locomotives reduced the need for extensive maintenance facilities and crews.
  • Declining copper demand and shifts in mining technology diminished ore shipments.
  • The Cobre post office closed permanently on May 31, 1956, marking the town’s effective end as a community.
  • The McGill smelter near Ely shut down on June 20, 1983, ending regular ore trains on the NNRY north of Ely.
  • In 1987, the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power acquired the dormant line from Cobre to Ely (originally for a proposed coal plant that never materialized), preventing immediate abandonment.

By the late 1980s, Cobre had faded into obscurity, with most buildings removed or demolished.

Current Status

Cobre remains an uninhabited ghost town and siding along the former rail lines in a remote, arid section of Elko County. Very little of the original town survives:

  • The dominant feature is a large cinderblock engine house constructed in the 1960s during the final years of active NNRY operations.
  • Scattered foundations, rail sidings, and minor debris are all that remain of the hotels, stores, saloons, and residential structures.
  • The site is accessible via dirt roads off Interstate 80 (near the Pequop exit), but it is on or near Union Pacific Railroad (successor to Southern Pacific) property, so visitors should exercise caution and respect private land/railroad rights-of-way.

The southern portion of the historic NNRY (from Ely to Ruth/McGill) has been preserved as the Nevada Northern Railway Museum, a National Historic Landmark operating heritage tourist trains. However, the northern segment through Cobre is largely inactive and overgrown, with no regular service. The area sees occasional visits from ghost town enthusiasts, railroad historians, and photographers, but it offers no services or restored buildings.

Cobre exemplifies Nevada’s many railroad-dependent settlements that vanished when mining economics and transportation technology evolved, leaving behind silent reminders of the state’s copper-fueled industrial past.

Treasure City Nevada – White Pine County Ghost Town

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Perched precariously atop Treasure Hill at elevations exceeding 9,000 feet in the rugged White Pine Range of western White Pine County, Nevada, Treasure City (originally known briefly as Tesora) emerged as one of the most dramatic symbols of the late-1860s silver frenzy that swept the American West. Born from the “White Pine Rush” — a stampede rivaling the Comstock in intensity but far shorter in duration — this high-altitude mining camp briefly glittered with promise before succumbing to the familiar Nevada pattern of boom and bust. At its 1869 zenith, Treasure City boasted a population estimated between 6,000 and 7,000 souls, complete with saloons, stores, a stock exchange, fraternal lodges, and the state’s first newspaper outside the Comstock region. Yet within a mere decade, it lay abandoned, its windswept ruins a silent monument to over-hyped riches and the unforgiving geology of surface-only deposits.

Discovery and the White Pine Fever (1865–1868)

The story of Treasure City begins not with a lone prospector but with seasoned miners from the Reese River district who, in late 1865, organized the White Pine Mining District after finding modest silver showings on the western slopes of the White Pine Range. Initial development remained quiet until late 1867 or early 1868, when legend credits a Shoshone man known as “Napias Jim” (or “Indian Jim”) with revealing extraordinarily rich chloride silver ore to local blacksmith A.J. Leathers. Samples assayed at staggering values — some reportedly reaching $15,000–$20,000 per ton — ignited what newspapers dubbed “White Pine Fever.”

By spring 1868, thousands poured into the remote mountains east of Eureka. Claims such as the Eberhardt, Hidden Treasure, North Aurora, and Mammoth were staked across Treasure Hill’s summit. The ore, primarily cerargyrite (horn silver) in brecciated limestone, occurred in massive surface pockets rather than true veins, allowing easy extraction but dooming long-term prospects. Miners initially lived in caves (earning the base camp the temporary name Cave City), but as the rush intensified, settlements sprawled across the hill.

Boom Years and High-Altitude Frenzy (1868–1870)

Treasure City coalesced directly among the mines near the hill’s crest, earning its name from the apparent boundless wealth. Briefly called Tesora in early 1869, it was formally incorporated on March 5, 1869, and its post office opened under that name before switching to Treasure City in June. By late 1869, the town pulsed with life: over 40 stores, a dozen saloons, Masonic and Odd Fellows halls, a stock exchange, and the White Pine News — Nevada’s easternmost newspaper, printed on a press hauled from Belmont.

The air reeked of woodsmoke from countless stoves struggling against brutal winters, where blizzards buried tents and temperatures plunged far below zero. Water had to be piped or hauled uphill, fuel was scarce, and avalanches claimed lives. Yet money flowed: the Eberhardt Mine alone yielded massive boulders of nearly pure silver, and district production soared. Supporting towns sprang up below — Hamilton (the commercial hub and new county seat of freshly created White Pine County), Shermantown (a mill town), Eberhardt, Swansea, and others — swelling the greater district to perhaps 25,000–40,000 people in 1869–1870.

Rapid Decline and Desertion (1870–1880s)

The bonanza proved illusory. By 1870, the rich surface pockets were exhausted; deeper workings encountered only low-grade ore. Population plummeted — Treasure City’s census recorded just 500 residents that year. Businesses shuttered, and many structures were dismantled for lumber or relocated downhill to Hamilton. A devastating fire in 1874 consumed much of the remaining business district. The town was disincorporated in 1879, its post office closed on December 9, 1880, and by the early 1880s Treasure City was effectively deserted. Sporadic attempts at revival in the 1890s and 1920s yielded little, and the district’s total output from 1867–1880 is estimated at $20–$40 million (over half a billion dollars today) — impressive, but far short of initial hype.

Current Status

Today, Treasure City exists only as scattered stone foundations, crumbling walls, and hazardous mine shafts strewn across the windswept summit of Treasure Hill, within the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest. No intact buildings remain; the high elevation and harsh weather have reduced most traces to low rock outlines and debris fields littered with rusted cans, broken glass, and the occasional shard of fine china or champagne bottle — remnants of a brief era of ostentatious wealth.

The site is accessible via a rough, high-clearance dirt road branching south from U.S. Highway 50 near Illipah Reservoir (about 37 miles west of Ely), then climbing approximately 11 miles to the Hamilton area and onward to the hilltop. The road is often impassable in winter or after rain, and visitors must contend with extreme weather even in summer. Combined with nearby Hamilton (which retains a few more substantial ruins including the shell of the 1870 courthouse), Treasure City forms part of one of Nevada’s most evocative ghost town complexes.

Though remote and barren, the location draws history enthusiasts, photographers, and off-road adventurers seeking the stark beauty of a place where fortunes were made and lost in the span of a single winter. Artifacts are protected on public land — take only photographs — and open mine shafts pose serious fall hazards. As with all Nevada backcountry sites, go prepared with water, fuel, and a reliable vehicle; cell service is nonexistent. Treasure City stands not as a preserved museum but as raw testimony to the fleeting nature of mining glory in the Silver State.

Lees Ferry Colorado River Crossing

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Lees Ferry, a remote site along the Colorado River in northern Arizona, holds a pivotal place in American history as a vital crossing point, a gateway to exploration, and a launchpad for modern river running. Situated at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, just downstream from Glen Canyon and upstream from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry has served as a geographic and cultural hinge for centuries, bridging Native American trails, Mormon settlement, and modern adventure.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Early History and Native American Presence

Long before European settlers arrived, the area around Lees Ferry was a crossing point for Native American tribes, including the Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo, and Paiute. The site’s relatively calm waters and accessible riverbanks made it a natural ford for foot traffic and trade routes across the rugged Colorado Plateau. Archaeological evidence suggests human activity in the region dating back thousands of years, with petroglyphs and artifacts attesting to its significance.

The Colorado River, however, was a formidable barrier, with its steep canyons and turbulent rapids. Lees Ferry stood out as one of the few locations where the river could be crossed safely, earning it a place in the region’s cultural and economic landscape.

John D. Lee and the Mormon Era

John D Lee
John D Lee

Lees Ferry derives its name from John Doyle Lee, a prominent and controversial figure in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church). Born in 1812, Lee was a devout Mormon pioneer who played a significant role in the church’s westward expansion. In 1871, following his excommunication for his involvement in the 1857 Mountain Meadows Massacre, Lee was sent by church leader Brigham Young to establish a ferry service at the site to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona.

Lee arrived with two of his wives, Emma and Ann, and several children, building a homestead known as Lonely Dell near the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers. In 1872, he constructed a rudimentary ferry—a flatboat guided by ropes—capable of carrying wagons, livestock, and people across the river. The ferry became a critical link on the “Honeymoon Trail,” a route used by Mormon couples traveling from Arizona settlements to the temple in St. George, Utah, for marriage ceremonies. Lee operated the ferry until his arrest in 1874 for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was executed in 1877, but his wife Emma continued running the ferry until 1879.

The ferry operation passed through several hands, including the LDS Church and private operators, until 1928, when it was rendered obsolete by the completion of the Navajo Bridge, located a few miles downstream. The bridge, opened in 1929, provided a more reliable crossing, marking the end of the ferry’s practical necessity.

Exploration and Scientific Significance

Lees Ferry’s strategic location made it a key staging point for early exploration of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist, launched his historic expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers from Green River, Wyoming, passing through Lees Ferry en route to the Grand Canyon. Powell’s 1871–1872 expedition again used the site as a critical resupply point, cementing its role in the mapping and scientific study of the American Southwest.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

The U.S. Geological Survey later designated Lees Ferry as the official division point between the Upper and Lower Colorado River Basins, a demarcation still used in water management today. The site’s consistent flow and accessibility made it ideal for gauging stations, which have monitored the river’s flow since the early 20th century, providing critical data for dam construction and water allocation in the arid West.

The Rise of River Running

In the 20th century, Lees Ferry transformed into the primary launch point for recreational and commercial river trips through the Grand Canyon. Its gentle waters and proximity to Marble Canyon make it an ideal starting point for navigating the Grand Canyon’s rapids. The site gained fame in the 1920s during the ill-fated honeymoon journey of Glen and Bessie Hyde, who launched their homemade scow from Lees Ferry in 1928, only to vanish downstream, leaving behind one of the canyon’s enduring mysteries.

By the mid-20th century, river running grew in popularity, spurred by figures like Norman Nevills, who pioneered commercial rafting trips, and Georgie Clark, who became a legendary river guide. Today, Lees Ferry is the starting point for thousands of annual river trips, ranging from half-day floats to multi-week expeditions through the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service tightly regulates these trips, with permits highly sought after due to the area’s scenic beauty and challenging rapids.

Lees Ferry Today

Now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is a designated historic site, with remnants of its past preserved for visitors. Lonely Dell, the original homestead, includes restored buildings, an orchard, and a small cemetery, offering a glimpse into the harsh life of early settlers. The ferry site itself features a boat launch, camping facilities, and interpretive displays about its history.

Lees Ferry also attracts anglers, drawn to its world-class trout fishery below Glen Canyon Dam, established after the dam’s completion in 1963 altered the river’s ecology. The clear, cold waters released from the dam create ideal conditions for rainbow trout, making the stretch between the dam and Lees Ferry a popular destination.

A Legacy of Connection

Lees Ferry’s significance lies in its role as a crossroads—geographic, cultural, and historical. From Native American trails to Mormon pioneers, from Powell’s daring expeditions to modern adventurers, the site has witnessed the unfolding of the American West. Its tranquil setting belies the challenges faced by those who crossed its waters or braved the canyons beyond. Today, as river runners launch from its shores and historians reflect on its past, Lees Ferry remains a testament to human resilience and the enduring allure of the Colorado River.