Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Mary Edith Fly
Mary Edith “Mollie” Fly (c. 1847–1925) was a pioneering American photographer who, with her husband Camillus “Buck” Fly, documented life in Tombstone, Arizona, during its 1880s silver-mining boom. Born in the U.S. and raised in San Francisco, she married Buck in 1879 and moved to Tombstone, where they established Fly’s Photography Gallery. Mollie managed the studio and boarding house, taking portraits of residents while Buck captured historic images, including Geronimo’s 1886 surrender. Despite personal challenges, including Buck’s alcoholism and their separations, Mollie ran the studio solo after his 1901 death until 1912. She donated their negatives to the Smithsonian and retired to Los Angeles. Inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame in 1989, Mollie’s work preserved a vivid record of Tombstone’s frontier era.
Early Life and Background
Mary Edith McKie, known as Mollie Fly, was born around 1847, likely in the United States, though details of her early life remain scarce. In the late 1850s, her family relocated to San Francisco, California, where she spent her formative years. Little is documented about her education or how she acquired her photographic skills, a rarity for women in the mid-19th century. Mollie married twice; her first marriage to Samuel D. Goodrich ended in divorce after two years. In 1879, she married Camillus Sidney “Buck” Fly, a photographer, in San Francisco, marking the beginning of their shared professional and personal journey. The couple later adopted a daughter, Kitty Fly.
Arrival in Tombstone and Establishment of Fly’s Photography Gallery
In December 1879, Mollie and Buck arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory, during its silver-mining boom, when the town was rapidly growing into one of the American frontier’s last boomtowns. They initially set up a temporary photography studio in a tent, capitalizing on the influx of miners, merchants, and adventurers. By July 1880, they had constructed a 12-room boarding house at 312 Fremont Street, which included their permanent studio, known as Fly’s Photography Gallery, at the back. Mollie played a pivotal role in managing both the boarding house and the studio, especially when Buck was away on photographic expeditions. As one of the few female photographers of the era, she took studio portraits for 35 cents each, capturing the diverse faces of Tombstone’s residents, from miners to merchants.
Role in Recording Tombstone’s Events
Mollie’s contributions to documenting Tombstone’s history were significant, though often overshadowed by her husband’s more publicized work. The Flys’ studio was strategically located near the site of the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881, one of the most iconic events in Old West history. Buck was an eyewitness to the shootout, which occurred just outside their studio, and reportedly disarmed a dying Billy Clanton while armed with a Henry rifle. Curiously, no photographs of the gunfight’s aftermath were taken, possibly due to threats from the Earp faction, though Mollie and Buck’s studio captured portraits of many key figures in Tombstone, including founder Ed Schieffelin and surgeon Dr. George E. Goodfellow.
While Buck gained recognition for his photojournalistic work, including the only known images of Geronimo’s surrender in 1886, Mollie ensured the studio’s continuity. She managed operations during Buck’s absences, producing photographic postcards, such as one captioned “Arizona Prospectors, Tombstone,” which offered rare glimpses into the town’s daily life. Her work, though less credited, helped preserve the visual record of a bustling frontier town marked by saloons, stagecoach robberies, and mining ventures.
Challenges and Resilience
The Flys’ personal and professional lives were fraught with challenges. Buck’s heavy drinking led to their temporary separation in 1887, and by the late 1880s, Tombstone’s economy declined as silver prices fell and mines flooded. In 1893, the couple attempted to open a new studio in Phoenix, but the venture failed, prompting their return to Tombstone a year later. They separated again in the late 1890s, with Buck establishing a studio in Bisbee, Arizona, where a fire at the Phelps Dodge Mercantile Company warehouse destroyed many of their glass-plate negatives. After Buck’s death in Bisbee in 1901, Mollie ran the Tombstone studio solo for another decade, demonstrating remarkable resilience. In 1905, she published a collection of Buck’s photographs, Scenes in Geronimo’s Camp: The Apache Outlaw and Murderer, preserving his historic images of Geronimo’s surrender.
Later Life and Legacy
In 1912, Mollie retired after a second fire destroyed her studio in Tombstone in 1915. Recognizing the historical value of their work, she donated the surviving negatives to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. She then moved to Los Angeles, California, where she lived until her death in 1925. Mollie’s contributions as a pioneering female photographer were posthumously honored in 1989 when she was inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame.
Mollie Fly’s role in recording Tombstone’s events was integral to preserving the town’s legacy as “The Town Too Tough to Die.” Through her management of Fly’s Photography Gallery and her own photographic work, she captured the essence of a volatile frontier era, contributing to one of the most comprehensive pictorial records of early Tombstone. Her perseverance as a woman in a male-dominated field and her dedication to her craft ensure her place as a significant figure in Arizona’s history.
Sources:
- Legends of America, “Camillus Sidney Fly – Photographer and Lawman”
- Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame, “Mary ‘Mollie’ E. Fly”
- Wikiwand, “Mollie Fly”
Potash Road
Potash Road, also known as Utah Scenic Byway 279 or the Lower Colorado River Scenic Byway, is a striking route that stretches approximately 17 miles along the Colorado River west of Moab, Utah, before transitioning into a dirt road that connects to the Shafer Trail in Canyonlands National Park. This road, running parallel to dramatic red rock cliffs and offering access to petroglyphs, arches, and dinosaur tracks, has a rich history tied to Native American use, industrial development, and modern recreation. Its proximity to the Shafer Trail makes it a critical segment of one of the most iconic backcountry driving routes in the American Southwest.
Native American and Early Use
Potash Road’s origins trace back to Native American pathways that followed the Colorado River through the deepening Wingate sandstone canyon. Indigenous peoples used these routes to access resources, hunt, and travel between seasonal locations. The corridor’s natural features, including the river and nearby cliffs, made it a vital passage for early inhabitants. Evidence of their presence persists in the form of petroglyphs, such as those visible along the road near the “Indian Writing” pullout, approximately 5 miles from Moab, where rock art panels adorn the cliffside.
Ranching and Early Development
In the early 20th century, the route that would become Potash Road was used by Mormon pioneer settlers and ranchers. While the nearby Shafer Trail was specifically improved by John “Sog” Shafer in 1917 to move cattle between summer pastures on the mesa top and winter grounds in the canyon, Potash Road served as a complementary route along the Colorado River, facilitating access to grazing areas and water sources. The road remained a rudimentary track during this period, suitable for livestock and limited vehicular traffic, with its path constrained by the river and towering sandstone cliffs.
Industrial Era and the Potash Mining Boom
The mid-20th century marked a significant transformation for Potash Road with the rise of potash mining in the Moab area. The road’s modern name derives from the Moab Salt Company (now Intrepid Potash, Inc.), located at the end of the paved section, approximately 17 miles from U.S. Highway 191. Established in the early 1960s, the potash mining operation extracted potassium chloride from deep underground deposits, using water from the Colorado River to dissolve the mineral, which was then pumped to vibrant blue evaporation ponds visible along the road. These man-made, rubber-lined ponds, dyed blue to speed evaporation, became a striking feature of the landscape, visible even from space.
To support the mining industry, the Atomic Energy Commission and mining companies improved Potash Road in the 1950s and early 1960s, paving the initial 15–17 miles from U.S. 191 to the potash plant. Beyond this point, the road transitions to a dirt track, historically used to transport uranium ore from mines in the Triassic Chinle Formation to processing facilities in Moab. This dirt section, which connects to the Shafer Trail, was widened and stabilized to accommodate heavy trucks, following the path of a natural rockfall that buried parts of the cliff-forming Wingate Sandstone. The construction of a single-track railway in 1964, paralleling the final six miles of the paved road and extending through Bootlegger Canyon to Moab, further supported the transport of potash and salt, reducing reliance on the road for industrial haulage.
Transition to a Scenic and Recreational Route
With the establishment of Canyonlands National Park in 1964, the region’s focus shifted from industrial activity to preservation and recreation. The dirt section of Potash Road, extending from the potash plant to the Shafer Trail, became integrated into the park’s backcountry road network. The National Park Service maintained the route for recreational use, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles due to its rugged terrain, including ruts, sand, and slickrock sections. The road’s connection to the Shafer Trail, which ascends 1,500 feet through dramatic switchbacks to the Island in the Sky district, made it a popular route for adventurers seeking to experience Canyonlands’ rugged beauty.
Potash Road’s paved section, designated as Utah Scenic Byway 279, became a draw for its accessibility and scenic attractions. Notable sites include “Wall Street,” a cliffside area popular with rock climbers, and the trailheads for Corona Arch and Jug Handle Arch, both located along the road. The Corona Arch trail, approximately 1.2 miles each way, leads to a 140-foot-wide arch, while Jug Handle Arch is visible from the road, offering easy access for photographers. Dinosaur footprints, reachable by a short scramble near the Poison Spider Trail, and petroglyphs along the river add historical and cultural depth to the drive. The road also passes by the Gooseneck Overlook, a remote viewpoint showcasing the Colorado River’s meanders, and Thelma and Louise Point, famous for its role in the 1991 film’s final scene, often mistaken for the Grand Canyon.
Modern-Day Significance
Today, Potash Road is a multifaceted route, blending paved accessibility with rugged backcountry adventure. The paved section is suitable for most vehicles, offering a scenic drive along the Colorado River with opportunities to stop at campsites, petroglyphs, and trailheads. The dirt section, connecting to the Shafer Trail, requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and is part of a 19-mile off-road route that enters Canyonlands National Park, where a fee is required. The road is prone to closure during wet or snowy conditions, as it becomes slippery and impassable, necessitating careful planning and checks with the National Park Service for current conditions.
The road’s recreational popularity has grown, attracting drivers, cyclists, and hikers. It is part of a larger loop from Moab to Canyonlands via Potash Road and the Shafer Trail, returning via U.S. 191 and SR-313, totaling approximately 66 miles. The route is celebrated for its stunning views of red rock formations, the Colorado River, and the dramatic Shafer switchbacks, though the narrow, steep sections demand caution, especially for those wary of heights. The road’s historical significance, from Native American trails to industrial transport and modern tourism, makes it a compelling journey through time and terrain.
Conclusion
Potash Road, from its origins as a Native American pathway to its role in the potash and uranium industries, has evolved into one of Utah’s most scenic and adventurous routes. Its paved section offers accessible beauty, while its dirt extension into the Shafer Trail provides a thrilling backcountry experience within Canyonlands National Park. With cultural landmarks like petroglyphs and natural wonders like Corona Arch, Potash Road remains a vital link in the region’s history and a must-visit for those exploring the Moab area’s rugged landscapes.
White Rim Trail
The White Rim Trail is Canyonlands National Park is a 100 mile back country 4×4 trail that follows an strata of white lime stone along the edge of Island in the Sky mesa Located in Canyonlands National Park, Utah. Back country permits are required for this trail, and although it can easily be taken in one day, the wise traveler takes their time and runs the route in several days and nights. There are several camp grounds offering star gazing opportunities, and the grand vistas and long light in the early morning and late afternoon will inspire the Ansel Adams within you.
The trailhead is reached by leaving the Islands in the Sky Mesa, using the steep and twisty Shafer Trail. The Shafer Trail is a back county route that takes you back to Moab, UT and a fun way out at the end of your trip. The Shafer trail drops quickly and about 700 feet using 6 switch backs. The Shafer Trail and White Rim Trail are well maintained and not very narrow, but the elevation and views give the feeling the route is dangerous.
Once down on the bottom, the well marked Shafer Trail continues on, while the White Rim Trail branches right and to the south. All along the backcountry dirt road there are numerous spur trails, vistas, and points of interest give you much to explore including Lathrop Canyon, Musselman Arch, Washer Woman Arch and the Monster Tower. The entire route is easy to follow, well maintained, well traveled and pure joy to run.
The trail winds along a layer of erroded light colored sandstone called the White Rim which undulates around several smaller side canyons which lead down the the Colorado River.
Available Campsites
There are several small primitive campsites throughout the route.
- Shafer – Mile 7 – 1 site
- Airport – Mile 19 – 4 sites
- Gooseberry – Mile 30 – 2 sites
- White Crack – Mile 39 – 1 site
- Murphy Hogback – Mile 45 – 3 sites
- Candlestick – Mile 55 – 1 sites
- Potato Bottom – Mile 66 – 3 sites
- Hardscrabble Bottom – Mile 70 – 2 sites
- Labyrinth – Mile 72 – 2 sites
- Taylor – Mile 77 – 1 site
White Rim Trail
The White Rim Trail is a renowned 100-mile loop through Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, offering a bucket-list adventure for overlanders, mountain bikers, and 4×4 enthusiasts. This rugged, high-clearance 4×4 route circumnavigates the Island in the Sky mesa, winding along the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below. The trail showcases breathtaking vistas of red rock canyons, towering buttes (like Airport Tower, Monster Tower, and Junction Butte), and the rivers’ confluence, rivaling views from the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. Key highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with views of the Maze and Needles districts), and Murphy Hogback, which offers 360-degree panoramas.
The trail features a mix of wide dirt roads, sandy patches, and technical jeep trails with some cliff exposure, particularly at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. It’s moderately difficult for vehicles and challenging for mountain bikes, with an elevation gain of approximately 9,160 feet. The route can be driven clockwise (starting at Shafer Trail) or counterclockwise (starting at Mineral Bottom Road), typically taking 2-3 days to complete, though hardcore cyclists may attempt it in one day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 camping areas, including Airport Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, making a full loop impossible. The best seasons are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) due to milder temperatures and more predictable weather, as summer is extremely hot and winter may bring closures.
Trail Map
White Rim Trail Campsites
 Airport CampgroundCanyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah Located in the heart of Canyonlands National Park’s Island in… |
Gooseberry CampgroundCanyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah Gooseberry Campground is a remote backcountry camping area located along… |
Hardscrabble Bottom CampgroundCanyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah Hardscrabble Bottom Campground is a remote backcountry camping area along… |
Murphy CampgroundCanyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah Murphy Campground is a remote backcountry camping area along the… |
Potato Bottom CampgroundCanyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah Potato Bottom Campground is a remote backcountry camping area along… |
White Crack CampgroundCanyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah White Crack Campground is a remote backcountry camping area in… |
The Disappearance of Glen and Bessie Hyde
In the autumn of 1928, newlyweds Glen and Bessie Hyde embarked on an ambitious honeymoon adventure, aiming to navigate the treacherous rapids of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Their goal was twofold: to set a speed record for the journey and to make Bessie the first documented woman to complete the perilous trip. Yet, the couple vanished without a trace, leaving behind a mystery that has captivated historians, adventurers, and storytellers for nearly a century.
The Adventurous Newlyweds
Glen Rollin Hyde, born December 9, 1898, was a farmer from Twin Falls, Idaho, with a passion for river running. He had experience navigating the Salmon and Snake Rivers in Idaho alongside an experienced river runner, “Cap” Guleke, in 1926, and had undertaken a six-month canoe trip through British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest in 1919. Bessie Louise Haley, born December 29, 1905, in Parkersburg, West Virginia, was a bohemian artist and divorcee with a flair for theater and poetry. The couple met in 1927 aboard a passenger ship bound for Los Angeles and married on April 10, 1928, just one day after Bessie’s divorce from her first husband was finalized.
Inspired by the era’s fascination with daring feats—think Charles Lindbergh’s transatlantic flight or George Mallory’s Everest expedition—the Hydes saw their journey as a path to fame and fortune. Glen crafted a 20-foot wooden sweep scow, named “Rain-in-the-Face,” a flat-bottomed vessel designed for river travel but ill-suited for the Grand Canyon’s violent rapids. Bessie, despite her lack of river-running experience, embraced the adventure, hoping to cement her place in history.
The Journey Begins
On October 20, 1928, the Hydes launched their scow from Green River, Utah, embarking on a journey down the Green and Colorado Rivers toward Needles, California. The couple planned to complete the trip in record time, with Bessie documenting their progress in a journal and with a camera. Their early journey was largely successful, navigating major rapids through Labyrinth, Stillwater, and Cataract Canyons without significant incident, though Glen had once fallen out of the boat, underscoring the river’s dangers.
By mid-November, the Hydes had reached the Grand Canyon, roughly halfway through their journey. On November 15, they hiked the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim to restock supplies at Grand Canyon Village. There, they visited the studio of famed photographer Emery Kolb, a veteran river runner who had navigated the Colorado twice. Kolb noted Bessie’s apparent exhaustion and apprehension, recalling her comment to his young daughter about her dress: “I wonder if I shall ever wear pretty shoes again.” Kolb offered the couple life jackets and even a place to stay for the winter, but Glen, determined to maintain their schedule, declined both.
The Hydes were last seen on November 18, 1928, as they departed from Hermit Rapid, accompanied briefly by Adolph G. Sutro, a photographer who rode with them for a day before hiking out at Hermit Creek. Sutro may have been the last person to see them alive.
The Disappearance
The Hydes were expected to arrive in Needles by December 6, 1928, but they never appeared. Alarmed, Glen’s father, Rollin Hyde, initiated a search before the couple was officially overdue. On December 19, a search plane spotted their scow near river mile 237, upright and intact, with supplies securely strapped in. Emery Kolb and his brother Ellsworth joined the search, recovering the boat, which contained Bessie’s journal, a camera, and other belongings. The journal’s final entry, dated November 30, indicated the couple had reached Diamond Creek, near river mile 226, and had cleared the 231 Mile Rapid. A photograph from the camera, likely taken around November 27 near river mile 165, provided the last visual evidence of their journey.
Despite extensive searches, no trace of Glen or Bessie was found. The pristine condition of the boat, with no signs of capsizing or damage, deepened the mystery. Historian Otis R. Marston, a noted Colorado River expert, suggested the couple likely perished in the heavy rapids near mile 232, where submerged granite rocks had damaged or capsized numerous boats. Yet, the absence of bodies or wreckage left room for speculation.
Theories and Legends
The Hydes’ disappearance sparked a flurry of theories, fueled by the romantic allure of their honeymoon adventure and the lack of conclusive evidence. The most straightforward explanation, supported by Marston and others, is that the couple drowned after their scow hit treacherous rapids, their bodies swept away by the river’s currents. The absence of life jackets and the unwieldy nature of their homemade scow lend credence to this theory.
However, alternative narratives have persisted. Some speculated that Bessie, weary of the journey and possibly facing an abusive husband, killed Glen and escaped the canyon. This theory gained traction in 1971 when an elderly woman on a commercial rafting trip claimed to be Bessie, alleging she had stabbed Glen during a quarrel and hiked out to start a new life. She later recanted, admitting the story was fabricated, but the tale lingered.
Another theory linked Bessie to Georgie Clark, a famed river runner who died in 1992. After Clark’s death, friends found a copy of the Hydes’ marriage certificate and a pistol among her possessions, and her birth name was revealed to be Bessie DeRoss. However, Clark’s well-documented life, including her marriage and childbirth in 1928, disproves this connection.
In 1976, skeletal remains with a bullet hole in the skull were discovered on Emery Kolb’s property, raising suspicions of foul play. Some theorized Kolb, who had interacted with the Hydes, might have been involved. Forensic analysis later determined the remains belonged to a younger man who likely died in the 1970s, ruling out a connection to Glen.
A Lasting Mystery
The disappearance of Glen and Bessie Hyde remains one of the Grand Canyon’s most enduring enigmas. Their story has inspired books, such as Brad Dimock’s Sunk Without a Sound, a novel by Lisa Michaels, and episodes of Unsolved Mysteries and various podcasts. The couple’s ambition, the haunting remark about “pretty shoes,” and the pristine state of their abandoned scow continue to captivate imaginations.
Whether they succumbed to the river’s fury, met with foul play, or orchestrated an escape, the fate of Glen and Bessie Hyde remains unknown. Their tale is a poignant reminder of the Grand Canyon’s beauty and danger, a place where nature can swallow even the boldest adventurers without a trace. As river runners recount their story around campfires, the Hydes’ legacy endures as a haunting chapter in the annals of American exploration.
Lees Ferry Colorado River Crossing
Lees Ferry, a remote site along the Colorado River in northern Arizona, holds a pivotal place in American history as a vital crossing point, a gateway to exploration, and a launchpad for modern river running. Situated at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, just downstream from Glen Canyon and upstream from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry has served as a geographic and cultural hinge for centuries, bridging Native American trails, Mormon settlement, and modern adventure.
Early History and Native American Presence
Long before European settlers arrived, the area around Lees Ferry was a crossing point for Native American tribes, including the Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo, and Paiute. The site’s relatively calm waters and accessible riverbanks made it a natural ford for foot traffic and trade routes across the rugged Colorado Plateau. Archaeological evidence suggests human activity in the region dating back thousands of years, with petroglyphs and artifacts attesting to its significance.
The Colorado River, however, was a formidable barrier, with its steep canyons and turbulent rapids. Lees Ferry stood out as one of the few locations where the river could be crossed safely, earning it a place in the region’s cultural and economic landscape.
John D. Lee and the Mormon Era
Lees Ferry derives its name from John Doyle Lee, a prominent and controversial figure in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church). Born in 1812, Lee was a devout Mormon pioneer who played a significant role in the church’s westward expansion. In 1871, following his excommunication for his involvement in the 1857 Mountain Meadows Massacre, Lee was sent by church leader Brigham Young to establish a ferry service at the site to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona.
Lee arrived with two of his wives, Emma and Ann, and several children, building a homestead known as Lonely Dell near the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers. In 1872, he constructed a rudimentary ferry—a flatboat guided by ropes—capable of carrying wagons, livestock, and people across the river. The ferry became a critical link on the “Honeymoon Trail,” a route used by Mormon couples traveling from Arizona settlements to the temple in St. George, Utah, for marriage ceremonies. Lee operated the ferry until his arrest in 1874 for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was executed in 1877, but his wife Emma continued running the ferry until 1879.
The ferry operation passed through several hands, including the LDS Church and private operators, until 1928, when it was rendered obsolete by the completion of the Navajo Bridge, located a few miles downstream. The bridge, opened in 1929, provided a more reliable crossing, marking the end of the ferry’s practical necessity.
Exploration and Scientific Significance
Lees Ferry’s strategic location made it a key staging point for early exploration of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist, launched his historic expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers from Green River, Wyoming, passing through Lees Ferry en route to the Grand Canyon. Powell’s 1871–1872 expedition again used the site as a critical resupply point, cementing its role in the mapping and scientific study of the American Southwest.
The U.S. Geological Survey later designated Lees Ferry as the official division point between the Upper and Lower Colorado River Basins, a demarcation still used in water management today. The site’s consistent flow and accessibility made it ideal for gauging stations, which have monitored the river’s flow since the early 20th century, providing critical data for dam construction and water allocation in the arid West.
The Rise of River Running
In the 20th century, Lees Ferry transformed into the primary launch point for recreational and commercial river trips through the Grand Canyon. Its gentle waters and proximity to Marble Canyon make it an ideal starting point for navigating the Grand Canyon’s rapids. The site gained fame in the 1920s during the ill-fated honeymoon journey of Glen and Bessie Hyde, who launched their homemade scow from Lees Ferry in 1928, only to vanish downstream, leaving behind one of the canyon’s enduring mysteries.
By the mid-20th century, river running grew in popularity, spurred by figures like Norman Nevills, who pioneered commercial rafting trips, and Georgie Clark, who became a legendary river guide. Today, Lees Ferry is the starting point for thousands of annual river trips, ranging from half-day floats to multi-week expeditions through the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service tightly regulates these trips, with permits highly sought after due to the area’s scenic beauty and challenging rapids.
Lees Ferry Today
Now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is a designated historic site, with remnants of its past preserved for visitors. Lonely Dell, the original homestead, includes restored buildings, an orchard, and a small cemetery, offering a glimpse into the harsh life of early settlers. The ferry site itself features a boat launch, camping facilities, and interpretive displays about its history.
Lees Ferry also attracts anglers, drawn to its world-class trout fishery below Glen Canyon Dam, established after the dam’s completion in 1963 altered the river’s ecology. The clear, cold waters released from the dam create ideal conditions for rainbow trout, making the stretch between the dam and Lees Ferry a popular destination.
A Legacy of Connection
Lees Ferry’s significance lies in its role as a crossroads—geographic, cultural, and historical. From Native American trails to Mormon pioneers, from Powell’s daring expeditions to modern adventurers, the site has witnessed the unfolding of the American West. Its tranquil setting belies the challenges faced by those who crossed its waters or braved the canyons beyond. Today, as river runners launch from its shores and historians reflect on its past, Lees Ferry remains a testament to human resilience and the enduring allure of the Colorado River.