Tag: California

California, located on the west coast of the United States, is renowned for its diverse landscapes, vibrant culture, and significant economic influence. From the sun-kissed beaches of Southern California to the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains, the state offers a range of natural beauty. The state is home to iconic cities like Los Angeles, known for Hollywood and the entertainment industry, and San Francisco, famous for its tech innovation and the Golden Gate Bridge. The state’s economy is one of the largest in the world, driven by sectors such as technology, agriculture, entertainment, and tourism. With its rich cultural diversity and pioneering spirit, California continues to be a land of opportunity and innovation.

Hot Creek Geologic Site

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Hot Creek Geologic Site is located near Mammoth, Lake just off the 395 Highway in Mono County, California. The stream originates from Twin Lakes in Mammoth and continues on to Lake Crowley. The site is located near and a beautiful cold water stream which is located over a geothermal vent. Warm water is heated from a magma chamber located about three miles below the earths surface and bubbles up into the steam warming the water.

Hot Creek located off the 395 highway near Mammoth in Mono County, California
Hot Creek located off the 395 highway near Mammoth in Mono County, California

The Hot Creek does offer excellent fishing opportunities and popular among fly fisherman. Fishing used to be limited to barbless hooks.

No Swimming

The stream is now closed to swimming becuase “Earthquakes can cause sudden geyser eruptions and overnight appearances of new hot springs at Hot Creek.  Water temperatures can change rapidly, and so entering the water is prohibited. ” Reports of hot water geysers up to 6 feet tall in 2006 and rapidly fluctuating temperatures apparently caused the closure of the stream to swimming.

My grandfather used to point out that some hot water vents where not in the same locations as when he was a child. Perhaps, within my life the hot springs area has become too dangerous to swim.

J Rathbun

As a child and young adult, the stream was open to swimming and my family did this routinely on almost every trip. I recall active conversations about the possibility of an geyser eruption which would kill us and we understood the risk of swimming. However, we also understood the possibility of an such an event was very remote when one considers the geologic time tables. My grandfather used to point out that some hot water vents where not in the same locations as when he was a child. Perhaps, within my life, the area has become too dangerous to swim.

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Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery

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Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery
Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery

Located just outside of Independence, Inyo County, California the Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery has played an important role in the preservation of the Golden Trout.  Beyond the hatchery’s primary purpose, the site makes an excellent location to pull off the highway, relax in the shade and enjoy a picnic lunch.  This is how I was introduced to the hatchery 30 years ago, and it is still much anticipated stop each time I travel the 395 highway.

The fish hatchery began life in 1915, when the town of Independence raised money for and subsequently purchased a 40 acre parcel of ideal land in Oak Creek.  Using foresight not seen in our time, Fish and Game Commissioner M. J. Connell directed he direct the design team “to design a building that would match the mountains, would last forever, and would be a showplace for all time.”  Charles Dean of the State Department of Engineering and the design time team decided upon a “Tudor Revival” architectural style.

Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery Display Pond
Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery Display Pond

Utilizing a budget of $60,000 the hatchery project was started in March 1916 and complete one year later.  The building was built using 3200 tones of  local granite quarried nearby, boasts walls up to three feet thick and features a Spanish Tile roof.  When the facility was brought online in 1917, the hatchery could produce two million fry per year.  

The hatchery’s design, led by Charles Dean of the State Department of Engineering, prioritizes durability and aesthetic integration with the landscape. The grounds, landscaped by a gardener from Golden Gate Park, feature lush vegetation and a large fish-rearing pond framed by the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Nevada, evoking the feel of an old European estate. The main building includes a visitor center with a gift shop, a fireplace, and interpretive exhibits, while the interior showcases troughs for fingerling fish and historical displays. Additional structures on the 40-acre site include nine small residences and six commercial buildings, contributing to its community-oriented function.

The fish hatchery operated until 2008, when on July 12th a flood and mudslide tore down the Oak Creek watershed which in 2007 was burnt in a wild fire.  The resulting mudslide buried the fish rearing ponds, destroyed four buildings and killed the entire population of Rainbow Trout.

The pond offers some beautiful flowers in the spring.

Currently a restoration project is in process, however the fate of the hatchery operation remains unknown.

Mount Whitney Fish Hatchery Map

References

Masonic California – Mono County Ghost Town

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Originally known as Lorena, Masonic California is a ghost town located in the mountains north east of Bridgeport, California.  Masonic was founded in 1860 by masons and therefor the name of the town.  The Masonic District was a natural follower to the excitement is neighboring Aurora and Bodie.  This area was small in scale comparatively and a stamp mill wasn’t onsite until 1907.  The population maxes out at about 1000 people, and about four years later the excitement began to wane.

Mill site from the middle section of Masonic, California. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mill site from the middle section of Masonic, California. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Early Beginnings (1860–1900)

The ghost town of Masonic, located approximately 10 miles northeast of Bridgeport in Mono County, California, emerged in the 1860s when a group of Freemasons discovered gold in the region. Named for the fraternal order, the settlement was initially called Lorena and developed into three distinct sections: Upper Town (originally Lorena), Middle Town, and Lower Town (formerly Caliveda). Situated in a canyon near the Nevada border in the Bodie Hills, Masonic’s early gold claims were overshadowed by larger strikes in nearby Bodie and Aurora, leaving the area largely undeveloped for decades.

In 1900, a 16-year-old prospector from Bodie named Joe Green rediscovered gold, establishing the Jump Up Joe Mine. Unable to finance its development, Green sold the claim, which sparked renewed interest in the Masonic Mining District. This district, spanning roughly 6 by 12 miles, encompassed over 40 claims at its peak and set the stage for Masonic’s brief boom.

Masonic Mill Site, Masonic, California. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Masonic Mill Site, Masonic, California. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Boom Years (1902–1911)

The discovery that transformed Masonic occurred on July 4, 1902, when partners John Stuart Phillips, Caleb Dorsey, and John M. Bryan struck a rich quartz ledge, founding the Pittsburg-Liberty Mine—named for Phillips’ hometown of Pittsburgh and the Independence Day holiday. Ore from the mine assayed at values between $35 and $800 per ton, with a reported nugget in 1904 valued at $4,000 per ton. This strike triggered a mining boom, and by 1906, Masonic’s population reached approximately 1,000 residents.

Infrastructure developed rapidly to support the growing community. By 1904, new roads linked Masonic to Bridgeport and Bodie, facilitating freight and passenger traffic. Lumber was transported nearly 50 miles from Mono Mills via the Bodie & Benton Railroad and six-horse wagons over Geiger Grade. Stagecoach lines connected Masonic to Wellington, Nevada, and Conway Ranch in the Mono Basin by 1906–1907. Telephone service arrived in 1905, and Middle Town saw the construction of a solid aspen-log cabin for Mr. and Mrs. H. H. Carpenter, notable for its rare glass-paneled door.

Middle Town became the commercial center, hosting a post office (established as Lorena in 1905, renamed Masonic in 1906), a general store, a livery stable, a butcher shop, and a hotel/boarding house. Lower Town featured the Jeffry Hotel, two saloons, and the Pittsburg-Liberty Mill, while Upper Town housed mine offices. The Masonic Pioneer newspaper, published by George Montrose of the Bridgeport Chronicle-Union, began in November 1905 but ceased after 2–3 years. Despite its growth, Masonic lacked a formal Masonic lodge, churches, or brothels, and maintained a relatively orderly reputation compared to Bodie, with no recorded shootings. Social life flourished, with dances featuring the Bodie Orchestra attracting large crowds.

In 1907, the Pittsburg-Liberty Mine opened a 10-stamp mill, allowing on-site ore processing. By 1910, the mine had produced approximately $700,000 in gold (equivalent to millions today). However, the ore veins were inconsistent, and production began to decline by 1911.

A wonderful view of Bodie is available to the travels en route to Masonic. Photography by James L Rathbun
A wonderful view of Bodie is available to the travels en route to Masonic. Photography by James L Rathbun

Decline and Abandonment (1911–1930s)

Masonic’s prosperity was fleeting due to shallow and uneven ore deposits. By 1911, mining activity had significantly decreased. A tramway constructed in 1913 to transport ore to the mill provided only temporary relief. The post office closed in 1912, briefly reopened in 1913, and shut permanently in 1927, with services transferred to Bridgeport. By 1920, the population had dwindled to just 12 residents, and mining activity nearly ceased by the 1930s. World War II’s ban on non-essential gold mining delivered the final blow, leaving Masonic abandoned.

Masonic Today

Today, Masonic is a true ghost town with minimal remnants, primarily in Middle Town, including stone cabin ruins, the timbered frame of the Pittsburg-Liberty Mill, and parts of the aerial tram system. Accessible via a 12-mile 2WD road from Bridgeport or an 8-mile 4WD route from Sweetwater Road, the site offers stunning views of the Sweetwater Mountains and Bridgeport Valley. Local lore suggests the ghost of John Phillips haunts the nearby Chemung Mine on Saturday nights, adding to the town’s eerie allure. Unlike the preserved Bodie State Historic Park, Masonic remains a “wild” ghost town, attracting adventurers and historians seeking an unpolished glimpse into California’s gold rush era.

Masonic’s ruins stand as a testament to its brief but vibrant history, reflecting the transient nature of mining towns in the American West. Its remote location and sparse remains preserve its rugged authenticity, making it a compelling destination for those exploring Mono County’s past.

Masonic Trail Map

Joseph Raphael De Lamar

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Joseph Raphael De Lamar (1843–1918) was a Dutch-born American maritime adventurer, mining magnate, and financier who rose from poverty to amass a $29 million fortune, leaving a lasting legacy through his contributions to mining and philanthropy.

Dutch-American businessman Joseph Raphael De Lamar
Dutch-American businessman Joseph Raphael De Lamar

Early Life

Joseph Raphael De Lamar was born on September 2, 1843, in Amsterdam, Holland, to Maximiliaan de la Mar, a banker, and Johanna Teune. His father’s death when Joseph was four plunged the family into poverty, leaving his mother to raise seven children. As a young boy, De Lamar stowed away on a Dutch ship bound for the West Indies, working as a cook’s assistant after being discovered. This sparked a maritime career, and by age 23, he commanded a ship, gaining a global education through extensive voyages.

Maritime and Submarine Ventures

De Lamar’s early career was defined by bold ventures. He became a ship’s captain and, during the American Civil War, a submarine contractor, salvaging sunken vessels. In 1872, he raised the Charlotte, a steamship carrying Italian marble, off Bermuda, succeeding where others failed. A near-fatal incident in 1874, trapped for 36 hours in a diving suit while inspecting the Steamer William Tibbitts at Martha’s Vineyard, led him to abandon diving. He then traded along West African rivers, profiting despite significant crew losses to disease.

Mining Career

In the late 1870s, De Lamar joined the Colorado gold rush, studying chemistry and metallurgy to enhance his mining expertise. In 1879, he bought the Terrible Lead Mine in Custer County, Colorado, for $5,500, selling it in 1885 for $130,000. In Idaho, he extracted $1.5 million in gold and silver from a mountain near Silver City, selling a half-interest to the De Lamar Mining Company of England for $2 million. He invested in Colorado’s Cripple Creek and built a cyanide-process mill in Mercur, Utah, expanding it to process 1,000 tons daily. In the 1890s, he explored copper prospects in Bingham Canyon, Utah, influencing its development. His mining legacy includes ghost towns named Delamar in Nevada, Idaho, and California.

Political and Financial Career

In 1891, De Lamar served as an Idaho state senator, chairing key committees but declining a U.S. Senate candidacy. Relocating to New York, he became a secretive Wall Street financier, known as “the man of mystery” for his reserved yet successful dealings, influencing major business interests without seeking public office.

Personal Life and New York Society

In 1893, De Lamar married Nellie Virginia Sands, a John Quincy Adams descendant, and they had a daughter, Alice. After their divorce, he raised Alice alone. To cement his status in New York’s Gilded Age, he commissioned a Beaux-Arts mansion at 233 Madison Avenue, completed in 1905 with features like an automobile elevator. He also built Pembroke, a Long Island estate, housing an Aeolian organ and Tiffany stained glass. Despite his wealth, his reserved nature kept him on the fringes of elite society.

Later Years and Legacy

An accomplished organist, De Lamar hosted grand events, including Alice’s 1915 society debut. He amassed art, including sculptures and paintings, for his homes. De Lamar died on December 1, 1918, in New York from pneumonia following surgery, leaving a $29 million estate (roughly $480 million today) to Alice and $10 million to Harvard, Johns Hopkins, and Columbia for medical research. His Madison Avenue mansion, later home to the American Bible Society and National Democratic Club, became the Polish Consulate in 1973 and a New York City landmark. In 2023, De Lamar was inducted into the American Mining Hall of Fame, cementing his rags-to-riches legacy.

Elias Jackson Baldwin “Lucky Baldwin”

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Elias Jackson Baldwin, known as “Lucky” Baldwin, was born on April 3, 1828, in Hamilton, Butler County, Ohio, the fourth of 14 children in a modest farming family. His parents, Isaac Baldwin and Melinda Jackson, relocated to a farm near New Paris, Indiana, in 1834, where Baldwin spent his childhood. With limited formal education, he developed a sharp, self-reliant character early on. At 18, he eloped with Sarah Ann Unruh, and the couple had a daughter, Clara, in 1847. By his early twenties, Baldwin demonstrated entrepreneurial flair, operating a general store in Valparaiso, Indiana, and later a hotel, which laid the foundation for his business acumen.

Elias Jackson Baldwin, known as "Lucky" Baldwin. April 3, 1828- April 3, 1828 – March 1, 1909
Elias Jackson Baldwin, known as “Lucky” Baldwin. April 3, 1828- April 3, 1828 – March 1, 1909

Journey to California and Early Ventures (1853–1860s)

In 1853, drawn by the California Gold Rush, Baldwin joined a wagon train from Indiana to San Francisco, a perilous six-month journey across the continent. Rather than prospecting for gold, he capitalized on the journey by trading goods like brandy, cigars, and tobacco, turning a profit before even reaching California. He narrowly escaped attacks by Native Americans, showcasing his resilience. Upon arriving in San Francisco, Baldwin avoided mining, instead investing in more stable ventures: a livery stable, a brick manufacturing business, and hotel properties. His foresight in focusing on infrastructure and services during the Gold Rush boom set him apart from speculative miners.

By the early 1860s, Baldwin’s investments expanded into the stock market, particularly shares in Nevada’s Comstock Lode, a major silver mining region. His nickname “Lucky” was cemented during this period due to a fortuitous incident. While traveling abroad, he instructed his broker to sell his Norcross mining stock if it fell below $800 per foot. Unable to access his safe due to a forgotten key, the sale was delayed, and the stock rebounded dramatically, earning Baldwin millions—equivalent to approximately $87 million in 2024. This windfall transformed him into one of San Francisco’s wealthiest figures.

Rise to Prominence in San Francisco (1860s–1875)

Using his mining wealth, Baldwin diversified his portfolio in San Francisco. He acquired the Montgomery Block, a prominent commercial building, and built the luxurious Baldwin Hotel and Theatre in 1876, which became a social hub until it burned down in 1898. His business ventures included real estate, shipping, and speculative investments, establishing him as a leading figure in California’s post-Gold Rush economy. Baldwin’s charisma and bold decision-making earned him both admiration and notoriety, as he navigated the city’s competitive business landscape.

Acquisition and Initial Development (1873–1874)

In 1873, Baldwin acquired a promising gold claim from brothers Barney and Charley Carter, who had discovered a gold-bearing quartz ledge on what they called “Carters’ Quartz Hill” (later Gold Mountain) near Baldwin Lake. Baldwin purchased the claim for $30,000 (approximately $750,000 in 2024), renaming it the Gold Mountain Mine. His investment sparked a second gold rush in the Big Bear area, fueled by exaggerated reports, such as one in The Guardian (September 12, 1874), which hailed the site as a “mineralogical miracle.” To support operations, Baldwin’s company built a road from Cactus Flats to Big Bear and began transporting heavy machinery.

Gold Mountain Mine and Bairdstown (1874–1875)

Baldwin invested $250,000 (about $6.5 million in 2024) to construct a 40-stamp mill at the base of Gold Mountain, designed to process 100 tons of ore daily. This steam-powered mill was a significant engineering feat for the remote region. By late 1874, a boomtown called Bairdstown emerged near Baldwin Lake to support the mine, boasting saloons, a blacksmith, boarding houses, and, by 1875, additional amenities like stores, hotels, a bakery, and a Chinese wash house.

The mill began operations on March 6, 1875, employing 180 workers. However, the ore proved low-grade, yielding insufficient gold to cover costs. After two months, Baldwin reduced operations to 20 stamps, and by October 1875, he shut down the mill entirely, just eight months after its launch. A fire destroyed the mill in August 1876, and Bairdstown was abandoned, becoming a ghost town.

Later Attempt with J.R. DeLaMar (1899–1900s)

In 1899, J.R. DeLaMar, a mining entrepreneur, proposed reviving the Gold Mountain Mine using the cyanide process to extract gold from low-grade ore. Baldwin, still owning the claim, agreed, and a new 40-stamp mill was built higher on Gold Mountain. Despite optimism, the operation again yielded poor results, and mining ceased after limited activity. The site saw sporadic efforts by other companies into the 1940s but never achieved significant production.

Geological and Historical Context

The Gold Mountain Mine, located in the Baldwin Lake District at approximately 7,251 feet elevation, featured gold-bearing quartz veins in quartzite and schist. San Bernardino County hosted over 3,000 mines, with gold as a primary commodity in 1,585. Baldwin’s venture was part of a shift from placer to corporate quartz mining, often employing diverse labor, including Chinese workers. The region’s challenges—limited water and low ore quality—hindered profitability.

Horse Racing and Santa Anita Park (1870s–1909)

Baldwin’s passion for thoroughbred horse racing defined much of his legacy. In the 1870s, he began breeding and racing horses, establishing the Santa Anita Stable. He developed the original Santa Anita Park racetrack on his rancho, which became a premier venue for horse racing in California. His horses, including stars like Volante, Emperor of Norfolk, and Los Angeles, won major races, including the American Derby in 1885, 1886, 1888, and 1894. Baldwin’s dedication to the sport earned him a posthumous induction into the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame in 2018 as a Pillar of the Turf.

His racing ventures were not without controversy. Baldwin’s competitive nature and willingness to bet heavily on his horses drew scrutiny, and he faced accusations of manipulating races. Nevertheless, his contributions elevated California’s status in national racing circles, and his legacy inspired the modern Santa Anita Park, reestablished by his daughter Anita in 1934.

Personal Life and Scandals

Baldwin’s personal life was as colorful as his business ventures. He married four times: Sarah Ann Unruh (1846–1865), Mary Cochran (1865–1876), Jane Virginia “Jennie” Dexter (1876–1881), and Lillie Bennett (1884–1909). His marriages were often tumultuous, and he faced multiple lawsuits from women alleging breach of promise or seduction. In 1876, 16-year-old Louise Perkins sued him for $75,000, claiming he reneged on a marriage promise; the case was settled out of court. In 1883, Baldwin survived a shooting at his Baldwin Hotel by Lillian Ashley, who accused him of misconduct. A decade later, her sister Vinnie Ashley shot at him again, seeking revenge, but Baldwin escaped unharmed.

Despite these controversies, Baldwin remained a charismatic figure, known for his charm, poker-playing prowess, and lavish lifestyle. He was a regular at San Francisco’s elite social clubs and maintained a reputation as a shrewd yet approachable magnate.

Later Years and Financial Decline (1890s–1909)

By the 1890s, Baldwin’s fortune began to wane due to economic downturns, poor investments, and the costs of maintaining his vast properties. The Panic of 1893 and the destruction of his Baldwin Hotel in 1898 further strained his finances. Nevertheless, he remained active in horse racing and continued to manage his rancho, often spending evenings playing poker with friends. His health declined in the early 1900s, and he contracted pneumonia in early 1909. Baldwin died on March 1, 1909, at his Santa Anita ranch, leaving an estate valued at approximately $25 million (about $750 million in 2024).

Legacy and Impact

Baldwin’s estate was divided primarily between his daughters, Clara Baldwin Stocker and Anita Baldwin McClaughry. Anita used her inheritance to reestablish Santa Anita Park in 1934, cementing the family’s racing legacy. Baldwin’s land subdivisions spurred the growth of Los Angeles County, and his agricultural innovations boosted California’s citrus and wine industries. Place names like Baldwin Hills, Baldwin Park, Baldwin Avenue, and the city of Arcadia reflect his enduring influence.

Baldwin’s life embodied the spirit of the American West: bold, opportunistic, and resilient. His ability to navigate the Gold Rush, mining booms, and California’s land development made him a transformative figure. Despite personal scandals and financial setbacks, his contributions to real estate, agriculture, and horse racing left a lasting mark on California’s history.

Key Achievements

  • Mining Wealth: Amassed millions through Comstock Lode investments, earning the “Lucky” nickname.
  • Land Development: Acquired and developed over 63,000 acres, founding Arcadia and Monrovia.
  • Horse Racing: Established the original Santa Anita Park and won multiple American Derbies, earning a 2018 Hall of Fame induction.
  • Agricultural Innovation: Developed Rancho Santa Anita into a model for citrus and wine production.

Sources

  • San Francisco Chronicle archives (1870s–1909)
  • National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame records
  • Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden historical documents
  • California State Historical Society records on Rancho Santa Anita
  • Biographical accounts from “Arcadia: City of the Santa Anita” by Robert F. Walsh