White Top Mountain

White Top Mountain road is located off of Hunter Mountain Road, in Death Valley National Park, California. A hilly and mountainous road connecting the Hidden Valley road to the White Top mining area district.

White Top Mountain Road view from the Lost Burrow Mine Road, Death Valley, CA
White Top Mountain Road view from the Lost Burrow Mine Road, Death Valley, CA

The road is approximately 11 miles in length and has an elevation gain from 4800 feet above sea level to 7000 feet. High clearance 4WD is recommended when wheeling this trail. The route is passable to high clearance 2WD in the first 5 miles. Beyond that distance, the NPS recommends high clearance 4WD because of 3 relatively small dry falls, 12-24″.

Travel beyond Burro Spring Junction is not recommended when wet or snow covered during winter months.

Once near the top of the trai, the Huntley Mining operations are visible.

The Lawrence Asbestos and Fluorspar claims located on the north slope of White Top Mountain two miles northeast of Burro Spring have been explored by several lessees over the years, but have produced only a few hundred tons of asbestos and fluorspar. Much scarring in the area has resulted from dozer prospecting and road building. The property consisted of three fluorspar claims, thirty-two asbestos claims, and a millsite under, location by R.H. Lawrence of Mojave. In 1970s the lessees proposed to develop the fluorspar deposits and ship the ore to Barstow via truck. Today the area consists of bulldozed prospects and a miner’s shack. Wright H. Huntley, pres., Huntley Industrial Minerals, Inc., to T.R. Goodwin,

Death Valley – Historic Resource Study – A History of Mining

White Top Mountain Trail Map

References

Homestake Dry Camp

Homestake Dry Camp - A primative campsite at Racetrack Valley
Homestake Dry Camp – A primative campsite at Racetrack Valley

The Homestake Dry camp is a primitive campground located in Racetrack valley inside Death Valley National Park.  It contains four very large and reasonably flat campsites which could accommodate multiple vehicles for larger groups.

The mine site as no amenities beyond a single chemical toilet at the North end of the location and a few wide spots in the road denote the camp sites. The toilet is in reasonable condition, but it does have some rodent damage and the odd spider web.  

There are fire rings, but no fires or wood gather is not allowed. There is no trash bins, no water, no tables.

The setting sun and mountains offer some great view and shadows.
The setting sun and mountains offer some great view and shadows.

Homestake Dry Camp is however the only camping near the Racetrack playa and is arguably some of the most remote camping in the national park.  The campground was very clean during out last visit and the night sky on a moonless night was second to none.

This is certainly well worth a stop over if you are so inclined and the campground offers a great point to explore the Lippincott Mine Road, the Lippincott Mine, Ubehebe Lead mine and of coarse the racetrack.

The Homestake primitive campground offers from amazing dark skies.
The Homestake primitive campground offers from amazing dark skies.

On our trip, we were offered the best of remote primitive camping. While we stayed dry, the night boomed with thunder from Saline Valley. The moonless night sky gave us an opportunity to see the Milky Way. There was a constant breeze which did not offer us a sound sleep, however, we will return which is the best endorsement one can provide.

Directions

The campground is located at the southern end of the Race Track Valley Road.

Campground Summary

Camp Ground NameHomestake Dry Camp
Latitude, Longitude36.6372892,-117.5745213
Sites4
Elevation3780
AmenitiesNo Water, No Fires, No tables

Homestake Dry Camp Trail Map

Mesquite Springs Campground

Mesquite Springs Campground located near Scotty's Castle in Death Valley
Mesquite Springs Campground located near Scotty’s Castle in Death Valley

Mesquite Springs is a campground in Death Valley National Park, Located just a few short miles from Scottys castle. Mesquite springs offers a nice refuge for the traveler. Not far from the main north – south highway running the length of Death valley.

Airing up the tires from our trip to the Racetrack

The campground is typically open all year round and cooler than Furnace Creek. There is a small fee to stay here, but well worth it to stay in this little oasis. There may be a campground host, but you should not count on this for your planning with regards to firewood. There is little undergrowth, so you do feel a little exposed to your neighbor.

Typically a quiet little outpost used by campers who want access to the northern section of the national park. Mesquite Springs offers a great launching point for the northern dunes, racetrack valley, Ubehebe Crater and parts beyond.

A typical campsite at Mesquite Springs, Death Valley National Park
A typical campsite at Mesquite Springs, Death Valley National Park

This is a great place to enjoy your beer and smores in the evenings while the Kangaroo Rats play around your feet. The remote area and dark skies allow for great star viewing.

Never let anyone tell you it does not rain in Death Valley.
Never let anyone tell you it does not rain in Death Valley.
Campground NameMesquite Springs Campground
Latitude, Longitude36.96303, -117.36840
AddressP.O. Box 579
Death Valley, CA
92328
Number of Sites40
Elevation1800
ReservationsNo
AmenitiesFlush Toilets, Fire Rings, Tables
Websitehttps://www.nps.gov/deva/planyourvisit/mesquite-spring-campground.htm

Mesquite Springs Campground Map

Back country ethics

Back country ethics came to the forefront recently. Over the last weekend, my wife and I decided to take a camping trip into the back country of Death Valley National Park.  We were inspired to return to Racetrack Valley, and over night at the Homestake Dry campground.  Upon our return, we were greeted with the grim news that another hiker had died in Zion National Park.  Zion is a personal favorite location and I know it well, and every time someone has an accident in the area I can’t help of think of the small little details that allow these tragedy’s to occur.  I would later recall that an actor died in Death Valley National Park this year.  There is, in fact, a book series written by Michael P. Ghiglieri that emphasizes death in various National Parks and the locations of each, are places which I frequent.

Back country ethics forced me to help a girl not drive this road in a acura.
Looking down at the Lippincott Mine Road from the Lippincott Mine, with Saline Valley in the distance.

To be sure, although stories like these grab attention and headlines I am sure that they are overblown in their publicity and for the most park the National Parks are safe.  The drama in each example is that we all visit there locations and with rare exception we all return with photo graphs and memories to last a life.  Many of this accidents are preventable, with the understanding the hindsight is always clear, I still can’t help but wonder what would happen should I ever find myself in a one of these situation?

Prior to any trip, I check and double checked my gear list.  The list changes depending upon time of year, destination, etc… but known the less I try to anticipate potential issues while I am loading the jeep.  The jeep is always packed with a first add kit, tools, 2 meter ham and CB radio, area maps, cell phone, extra water, fuel and food.  This is standard operating procedure for us.

During our weekend in Racetrack Valley we ran into a total of four other vehicles over the course of 24 hours.  Of these autos, two were in need of some assistance and I was more than happy to provide help.  The first car was a new Jeep Grand Cherokee which appeared to be just off the lot.  The Grand Cherokee is a great car, and they just had a flat tire.  The racetrack playa road claims many tires each year, and the owner was able to get the tire changed in just a few minutes.  The flat tire was a minor issue and they were soon on their way, although there had to be careful because they did not have a true spare tire but rather one of those light weight little donuts tires.

After an overnight stay at the Homestake dry camp, we left for our day full of explorations.  After a brief stop at the Lippincott Mine we headed north towards Teakettle Junction.  Upon arrival, our plan was to head east towards Hunter Mountain, however before we could make the turn the driver of a parked white Infinity coupe flagged us down requesting help.  So, I stopped the jeep, got out and walked towards the Infinity.  Our of the car, a woman in her 20’s or early 30’s stepped out of the car.  She was dressed like she was going to a summer bar-be-queue, complete with perfume, tight shorts, stylish shoes and make up in place.  So, seventeen miles in the back country of Death Valley National park, she pulled out a cheap gas station map and asked for directions.

Lippencott Mine Road from Racetrack Valley, Death Valley National Park, CA
Lippencott Mine Road from Racetrack Valley, Death Valley National Park, CA

I took a minute for me to completely comprehend what was being asked of me.  So, she starts out, pointing to Teakettle Junction of the map and asks if she was in fact “there”.  I told her “Yes, this is Teakettle Junction” which is funny to me since Teakettle Junction has a huge sign which reads “Teakettle Junction”, which is turn, is covered with about 50 Teakettles.  To which she points in the area of Saline Valley and tells me she is meeting her friends and wanted to know if she should take “this road” and points to the Lippincott Mine Road.  For those how are not aware, the Lippincott Mine Road is a non-maintained steep 4×4 trail with a sheer cliff on one side.  This is not the sort of thing you should try in an Infinity coupe with no low range and street tires and I told her politely that she is foolish for thinking  of it.  She responded, “yeah, my friend told me that.”

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

To summarize now, I ran into someone, clearly not prepared for her environment, who did not listen to the advice of her friend, and is now asking for directions, 17 miles down a wash-boarded road, from a complete stranger.  I suggest that she turn around, head back to the highway, and jump on the pavement and take the long way around.  To which, she asked about “this road” and she points to the “Hunter Mountain Road”.  I told her that I didn’t know about the condition of “that road”, and my guess is that the road was more of the same of what she had already done, but “I hasten to add, I am not sure.”  She thanked me, and just as I left I told her to “turn around”.  I jumped back in the Jeep and went on to my next destination, the Lost Burro Mine.

After some time at Lost Burro, lunch and some further exploration a front arrived in the area and rain began to fall.  We made our may make down to the Hunter Mountain Road.  Prior to ending our trip, I want to run down to some other mines as the rain fell harder.  At which point, I noticed that we were following fresh street tire tracks on the road.  The car in front of us lost traction as it struggle to climb out of a sandy 6 inch gully which would not been an issue for any small SUV, but a different story from an Infinity car.  Each turn we were surprised not to find this woman, stuck by the side of the road with a flat tire or something else.  Mile after mile we followed the tracks until we reached our final destination at the Quakenbush Mine, at this point the turned around and ended our trip.

On the drive home, my lovely wife Heather and I discussed her situation.  We both agree that she was stupid for putty herself in danger.  She did not listen to her friend.  She did not appear prepared for anything, yet alone the back country of Death Valley.  I potentially saved her life that day, but I can’t help but wonder if I should have been more firm or blunt in getting her to turn around.  But then again, would it have mattered?  She already ignored her friends advice.

Where does my obligation to help end? Or does it ever end?  Of coarse, if our paths crossed deep in the Hunter Mountain Road we would completely helped her out and ensure her safety.  However, if you have an dealing with an adult, presumably of sound mind, when is enough help, enough?  She wasn’t in danger sitting at Teakettle Junction.  She is probably made her destination and  is probably safe and sound.  She probably still does not realize the potential danger of her situation that day.  I believe I talked her out of the Lippincott Mine Road “shortcut”, but I don’t know.  Perhaps, a series of small seemingly unimportant events was already cascading to push her towards her destiny which can only be seen with hindsight.  Perhaps, I interrupted the series of unfortunate events and removed a chapter from Mr. Ghiglieri’s next book

Death Valley, Spring 2002

Death Valley was a bit different from my experience last year. Last year, we explored the northern valley and drove over 250 miles per day. This year our goal was to see the central valley. My usual plan is to explore during the day, and scout locations. When the sun’s rays grow long in the afternoon, I am quickly off to take photos

The trip started with a short drive over to the ghost town of Skidoo for various mine exploring. The town itself is long since gone but, the the hills remain riddle with hundreds of mines, tailings, and tunnels. The only structure that remains is the mill, but the structure is now marked unstable, and explorers are discouraged from entering the site.

Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park
Thunderstorm in Death Valley National Park

Later on this day, I took a hike out into the Dunes. I found it very  frustrating to see the huge volume of tracks from previous hikers and explorers. The majority of whom, seemed determined to continually stand or walk along the fragile ridges of the wind swept dunes. Compost ion proved to be a nightmare, and I did not want to bring home an image with foot prints in it. I continued on my way, dune after dune after dune. I found my subject on the far end of the dunes. Over one more ridge and the sand turned back into the wasteland that is the central valley floor. The image I saw in my head, was a low angle shot that pushed the depth of field, with a shallow sweeping curve of the dune ridge created by the strong desert winds. I did not get the exact composition that I was looking for, but the results have there own charm. I the failing desert light, I headed back across the dunes with my brother and arrived in camp well after sundown.

The next day in the valley typified the valley for me. In the morning we headed off for Darwin Falls, and I had some success. Later in the day, we encountered a violent wind storm. Sand rose hundreds of feet into the air, as I watched my chances for more work in the dunes vanish under the shifting sands. I might risk my self out in that storm, but I wouldn’t dare sand blast my camera lens in these harsh conditions. I spent the evening light enjoying a cocktail as I watch the sunset. I snapped a few of the sunset, but the light failed to turn, and I only really capture a far off desert sand storm.

We awoke the final day, and as the sun peaked over the horizon, the now familiar winds began again with a vengeance. Our camp was pummeled under the onslaught, as we watched as another campers tent gently flew overhead at an altitude of about 75 feet, and take off across the desert at high speeds. The majority of the day was spent traveling around the main valley hot sports. Even in early April, we could feel the heat of this place.

Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park
Sand dunes near Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley National Park

As the day waned, my brother and I drove towards the yellow hills of Zabriskie Point. Our friend the wind continued to follow us, and fellow visitors laughed a bit when they say me composing image with my camera, and putting all of the 6’1″ frame on top of the tripod to pin the camera to the earth to prevent distortion caused by the wind. It was under these conditions that I missed my first great shot. We by car in the hills above Zabriskie Point. While driving I took a quick glance in the side mirror and saw the most brilliant golden hue I have ever seen. My brother must have thought me insane as I slammed on the breaks, turned off the road, and grabbed my camera. I took off running. I needed some high ground to compose my shot. The late afternoon sun managed to piece the blackening ski, and found the yellow hills. The resulting color and light can never be described. Unfortunately, I was 5 seconds too late. As I opened the shutter, the intensity of light failed along with my opportunity.