Colorado Steamships

The Colorado River, flowing from the Rocky Mountains through the arid Southwest to the Gulf of California, was a challenging waterway—shallow, swift, and prone to sandbars, floods, and shifting channels. Despite these obstacles, steam-powered vessels played a vital role in its navigation from the mid-19th century until the early 20th century. Primarily operating on the lower Colorado River (from the Gulf of California upstream to areas near modern-day Nevada), steamboats transported military supplies, miners, settlers, and freight, fueling the development of Arizona, California, Nevada, and parts of Mexico. They were the most economical means of moving goods across the desert until railroads supplanted them.

View showing steamboat Cochan on the Colorado River near Yuma, Arizona in 1900 - U.S. National Archives and Records Administration
View showing steamboat Cochan on the Colorado River near Yuma, Arizona in 1900 – U.S. National Archives and Records Administration

Early Attempts and the Birth of Steam Navigation (1850–1854)

The need for reliable transport arose after the Mexican-American War (1846–1848), when the U.S. Army established Fort Yuma at the confluence of the Gila and Colorado Rivers to protect emigrants heading to California during the Gold Rush. Supplying the isolated fort overland from San Diego cost up to $500 per ton. River transport from the Gulf of California offered a cheaper alternative.

Initial efforts used schooners and barges. In 1850–1851, the schooner Invincible and longboats reached only partway upriver. Lieutenant George Derby recommended shallow-draft sternwheel steamboats.

The first successful steamboat was the small iron-hulled Uncle Sam, a 65-foot tug with a 20-horsepower engine, assembled at the river’s mouth in 1852 by Captain James Turnbull. It reached Fort Yuma in December 1852 but later proved unreliable and sank.

In 1853–1854, George Alonzo Johnson, partnering with Benjamin M. Hartshorne and others, formed George A. Johnson & Company. They brought parts for the sidewheeler General Jesup from San Francisco, assembling it at the river mouth. The General Jesup carried 50 tons of cargo to Fort Yuma in five days, reducing costs to $75 per ton and proving commercial viability.

Mohave II at Yuma, Arizona, with Sunday school group embarked, 1876 - Unknown author - MacMullen, Jerry, Paddle-Wheel Days in California, Stanford University Press, 1944
Mohave II at Yuma, Arizona, with Sunday school group embarked, 1876 – Unknown author – MacMullen, Jerry, Paddle-Wheel Days in California, Stanford University Press, 1944

Expansion and Exploration (1855–1860s)

Johnson’s company built wood yards staffed by Cocopah Indians and added vessels like the sternwheeler Colorado (1855, captained by Isaac Polhamus) and others. By the late 1850s, steamboats regularly serviced Fort Yuma and emerging mining camps.

Exploration pushed limits:

  • In 1857, Johnson took the General Jesup to El Dorado Canyon (near Las Vegas).
  • The U.S. Army’s 1857–1858 expedition, led by Lt. Joseph Christmas Ives, used the 54-foot iron steamboat Explorer (built in Philadelphia and reassembled on the river). It reached Black Canyon but struck a rock; Ives deemed further navigation impractical at low water. Johnson later bought the Explorer and converted it to a barge.

Mormon leader Brigham Young sought a sea-to-Utah route via the Colorado. In 1864–1866, Anson Call established Callville (near modern Lake Mead) as a potential port. Steamboats like the Esmeralda reached it in 1866.

Boom Years: Mining Rushes and Competition (1860s–1870s)

The 1862 Colorado River gold rush near La Paz (Arizona) and later discoveries in Eldorado Canyon and elsewhere created explosive demand. Ports like Ehrenberg, Hardyville, and Aubrey emerged. Steamboats hauled machinery, food, and ore, often towing barges for extra capacity.

George A. Johnson & Company dominated initially but faced rivals like Thomas Trueworthy’s Union Line in the 1860s. Competition ended when Johnson’s company absorbed opponents. In 1869, it reorganized as the Colorado Steam Navigation Company (C.S.N.Co.), expanding the fleet with vessels like Cocopah, Mohave, and larger ones like the 149-foot Mohave II (1876) and Gila.

Key captains included Isaac Polhamus (“Dean of the Colorado River”) and later Jack Mellon. Ocean steamships connected San Francisco to the river mouth at Port Isabel, feeding river traffic.

Colorado II in a tidal dry dock in the shipyard above Port Isabel, Sonora - MacMullen, Jerry, Paddle-Wheel Days in California, Stanford University Press, 1944
Colorado II in a tidal dry dock in the shipyard above Port Isabel, Sonora – MacMullen, Jerry, Paddle-Wheel Days in California, Stanford University Press, 1944

Peak and Decline (1870s–1900s)

The 1870s marked the peak, with scheduled services and luxurious boats offering passenger excursions. The C.S.N.Co. monopolized trade, profiting immensely from military contracts, mining,, and Mormon supplies.

Railroads spelled doom. The Southern Pacific reached Yuma in 1877, bridging the river. That year, Johnson and partners sold the C.S.N.Co. to Southern Pacific interests for a massive profit. Steamboats continued but focused on upper reaches and local freight.

Later vessels included the Cochan (1900, the last major sternwheeler) and Searchlight (1903–1909), hauling ore from Nevada mines.

End of an Era (1909–1916)

The 1909 completion of Laguna Dam (for irrigation) blocked navigation. Final operations involved limited freight and dam-related work. The last commercial steamboat, Searchlight, retired around 1916.

Attempts on the upper Colorado (e.g., Glen Canyon, Green River) were short-lived due to rapids and low water.

Legacy

For over 50 years, Colorado River steamboats connected isolated frontiers, enabling settlement and extraction in a harsh desert. They carried millions in gold, supplied forts and mines, and linked the Pacific to inland territories. Though overshadowed by railroads and dams, their era transformed the Southwest, leaving behind ghost towns, historic sites like Yuma Quartermaster Depot, and a romantic chapter in Western transportation history.

Colorado River Steamship Landings

The steamboat Mohave departing the landing in El Dorado Canyon.
The steamboat Mohave departing the landing in El Dorado Canyon.
Potholes, California, From 185918 mi (29 km)
La Laguna, Arizona Territory, 1860-186320 mi (32 km)
Castle Dome Landing, Arizona Territory, 1863-188435 mi (56 km)
Eureka, Arizona Territory, 1863-1870s45 mi (72 km)
Williamsport, Arizona Territory, 1863-1870s47 mi (76 km)
Picacho, California, 1862-191048 mi (77 km)
Nortons Landing, Arizona Territory, 1882-189452 mi (84 km)
Clip, Arizona Territory, 1882-188870 mi (110 km)
California Camp, California72 mi (116 km)
Camp Gaston, California, 1859-186780 mi (130 km)
Drift Desert, Arizona Territory102 mi (164 km)
Bradshaw’s Ferry, California, 1862-1884126 mi (203 km)
Mineral City, Arizona Territory, 1864-1866126 mi (203 km)
Ehrenberg, Arizona Territory, from 1866126.5 mi (203.6 km)
Olive City, Arizona Territory, 1862-1866127 mi (204 km)
La Paz, Arizona Territory, 1862-1870131 mi (211 km)
Parker’s Landing, Arizona Territory, 1864-1905
Camp Colorado, Arizona, 1864-1869
200 mi (320 km)
Parker, Arizona Territory, from 1908203 mi (327 km)
Empire Flat, Arizona Territory, 1866-1905210 mi (340 km)
Bill Williams River, Arizona220 mi (350 km)
Aubrey City, Arizona Territory, 1862-1888220 mi (350 km)
Chimehuevis Landing, California240 mi (390 km)
Liverpool Landing, Arizona Territory242 mi (389 km)
Grand Turn, Arizona/California257 mi (414 km)
The Needles, Mohave Mountains, Arizona263 mi (423 km)
Mellen, Arizona Territory 1890 – 1909267 mi (430 km)
Eastbridge, Arizona Territory 1883 – 1890279 mi (449 km)
Needles, California, from 1883282 mi (454 km)
Iretaba City, Arizona Territory, 1864298 mi (480 km)
Fort Mohave, Arizona Territory, 1859-1890
Beale’s Crossing 1858 –
300 mi (480 km)
Mohave City, Arizona Territory, 1864-1869305 mi (491 km)
Hardyville, Arizona Territory, 1864-1893
Low Water Head of Navigation 1864-1881
310 mi (500 km)
Camp Alexander, Arizona Territory, 1867312 mi (502 km)
Polhamus Landing, Arizona Territory
Low Water Head of Navigation 1881-1882
315 mi (507 km)
Pyramid Canyon, Arizona/Nevada316 mi (509 km)
Cottonwood Island, Nevada
Cottonwood Valley
339 mi (546 km)
Quartette, Nevada, 1900-1906342 mi (550 km)
Murphyville, Arizona Territory, 1891353 mi (568 km)
Eldorado Canyon, Nevada, 1857-1905
Colorado City, Nevada 1861-1905
365 mi (587 km)
Explorer’s Rock, Black Canyon of the Colorado, Mouth, Arizona/Nevada369 mi (594 km)
Roaring Rapids, Black Canyon of the Colorado, Arizona/Nevada375 mi (604 km)
Ringbolt Rapids, Black Canyon of the Colorado, Arizona/Nevada387 mi (623 km)
Fortification Rock, Nevada
High Water Head of Navigation, 1858-1866
400 mi (640 km)
Las Vegas Wash, Nevada402 mi (647 km)
Callville, Nevada, 1864-1869
High Water Head of Navigation 1866-78
408 mi (657 km)
Boulder Canyon, Mouth, Arizona/Nevada409 mi (658 km)
Stone’s Ferry, Nevada 1866-1876438 mi (705 km)
Virgin River, Nevada440 mi (710 km)
Bonelli’s Ferry, 1876-1935
Rioville, Nevada 1869-1906
High Water Head of Navigation from 1879 to 1887
440 mi (710 km
Soruce: Wikipedia

Colorado River Steamship Landings

Steamboats on the Colorado River

Gila Steamboat at the Yuma Crossing Arizona, 1873.
Gila Steamboat at the Yuma Crossing Arizona, 1873.
NameTypeTonsLengthBeamLaunchedDisposition
Black EagleScrew40 feet6 feetGreen River, Utah
June 1907
Exploded 1907
Charles H. SpencerStern92.5 feet25 feetWarm Creek, Arizona
February 1912
Abandoned
Spring 1912
Cliff DwellerStern70 feet20 feetHalverson’s Utah
November 1905
To Salt Lake
April 1907
CochanStern234135 feet31 feetYuma, Arizona
November 1899
Dismantled
Spring 1910
Cocopah IStern140 feet29 feetGridiron, Mexico
August 1859
Dismantled
1867
Cocopah IIStern231147.5 feet28 feetYuma, Arizona
March 1867
Dismantled
1881
Colorado IStern120 feetEstuary, Mexico
December 1855
Dismantled
August 1862
Colorado IIStern179145 feet29 feetYuma, Arizona
May 1862
Dismantled
August 1882
CometStern60 feet20 feetGreen River, Wyoming
July 1908
Abandoned
1908
EsmeraldaStern93 feet13 feetRobinson’s, Mexico
December 1857
Dismantled
1868
General JesupSide104 feet17 feetEstuary, Mexico
January, 1864
Engine Removed
1858
General RosalesSternYuma, Arizona
July 1878
Dismantled
1859
GilaStern236149 feet31 feetPort Isabel, Mexico
January 1873
Rebuilt as Cochan
1889
Major PowellScrew35 feet8 feetGreen River, Utah
August 1891
Dismantled
1894
Mohave IStern193135 feet28 feetEstuary, Mexico
May 1864
Dismantled
1875
Mohave IIStern188149.5 feet31.5 feetPort Isabel, Mexico
February 1876
Dismantled
Jan 1900
Nina TildenStern12097 feet22 feetSan Francisco, California
July 1864
Wrecked
September 1874
RettaStern36 feet6 feetYuma, Arizona
1900
Sunk
Feburary, 1905
St. VallierStern9274 feet17 feetNeedles, California
Early 1899
Sunk
March 1909
San JorgeScrew38 feet9 feetYuma, Arizona
June 1901
To Gulf
July 1901
SearchlightStern9891 feet18feetNeedles, California
December 1902
Lost
October 1916
Uncle SamSide4065 feet16 feetEstuary, Mexico
November 1852
Sunk
May 1853
UndineStern60 feet10 feetGreen River, Utah
November 1901
Wrecked
May 1902
Steamboats on the Colorado River 1852-1916 – Appendix A

Resources

Crucero Station – Tonopah and Tidewater

The Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad (T&T), often abbreviated as T&T, was a historic class II railroad that operated from 1907 to 1940, primarily serving regions in eastern California and southwestern Nevada. Established to transport borax from the Pacific Coast Borax Company’s mines east of Death Valley, the railroad played a crucial role in the mining industry’s logistics during the early 20th century. Crucero Station was a key facility along this line, functioning as an important interchange point that facilitated connections with other major railroads. This report explores the history, significance, and legacy of Crucero Station within the context of the T&T Railroad.

History of the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad

The T&T Railroad was incorporated in 1904 by Francis Marion “Borax” Smith, the founder of the Pacific Coast Borax Company, with the ambitious goal of linking mining operations in Tonopah, Nevada, to tidewater ports in southern California. Construction began in Ludlow, California, where it connected with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway. The line extended northward through the Mojave Desert, reaching Death Valley Junction by 1907 and eventually Beatty, Nevada. Through agreements, it also provided service to Goldfield via the Bullfrog Goldfield Railroad until 1928.

The railroad’s primary cargo was borax, but it also transported lead, clay, feldspar, passengers, and general freight. Peak operations occurred between 1909 and 1914, with regular trains servicing stations such as Crucero, Silver Lake, Tecopa, Shoshone, Death Valley Junction, Gold Center, and Beatty. However, the rise of truck transportation, the discovery of borax deposits closer to markets in Boron, California, and the Great Depression led to declining traffic. The Interstate Commerce Commission approved abandonment in 1940, and the tracks were removed in 1943 for wartime scrap metal needs.

Crucero Station: Location and Development

Crucero Station was located in the Mojave Desert, California, at milepost 25.68 on the T&T line, positioned between Broadwell (milepost 12.68) and Rasor (milepost 29.38). Construction of the railroad reached Crucero by 1906, following initial route challenges and rerouting efforts. The station was established as part of an agreement with the Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad (later acquired by the Union Pacific Railroad), allowing the T&T to cross and interchange at this point. This arrangement was not initially ideal for either party, leading to negotiations and adjustments as construction progressed northward.

Role and Significance of Crucero Station

As a registering station, Crucero was essential for operational coordination, including train orders and signaling under the railroad’s rules. Its primary significance lay in serving as an interchange with the Union Pacific Railroad, enabling the transfer of freight and passengers to broader national networks. This connection was vital for the T&T’s viability, as the railroad never fully reached its intended endpoints of Tonopah or San Diego on its own tracks. Crucero facilitated the haulage of borax and other minerals from remote mines to markets, replacing inefficient mule teams and supporting the economic development of the region.

Notable events at Crucero include a 1942 flood that stranded the T&T’s #99 doodlebug railcar, even after the line’s official abandonment. During its operational years, the station also housed personnel, such as a station agent and family in the late 1940s, highlighting its role as a small community hub in the isolated desert.

Legacy and Current Status

Today, Crucero Station is abandoned, with remnants of the right-of-way, including ties, tie plates, and spikes, still visible in the desert landscape. The site is accessible via off-road vehicles and parallels parts of California State Route 127. Preservation efforts include the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad Historical Society, formed in 2015, and a museum originally in Death Valley Junction that has relocated to Goldfield, Nevada. Archival records are held at institutions like the Huntington Library, documenting the railroad’s history.

The T&T and stations like Crucero represent an era of rail-driven industrial expansion in the American West, underscoring the challenges of desert transportation and the shift to modern alternatives.

Conclusion

Crucero Station was a pivotal component of the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad, embodying its operational and logistical essence through interchanges that connected isolated mining areas to the world. Though abandoned, its legacy endures in historical records and remnants, offering insights into early 20th-century railroading in the Mojave Desert.

Broadwell Station – Tonopah and Tidewater

Broadwell Station was a minor but strategically located siding and water stop on the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad (T&T), a historic narrow-gauge line that operated from 1907 to 1940 across the Mojave Desert in California and Nevada. Situated near Broadwell Dry Lake in San Bernardino County, California, the station played a supporting role in transporting borax, ore, and passengers during the early 20th-century mining boom. Though it featured limited infrastructure, Broadwell exemplified the T&T’s role in sustaining remote desert communities. The railroad’s abandonment in 1940, followed by rail removal in 1943 for World War II efforts, left the site as a relic of desert railroading, now part of the Mojave National Preserve.

Introduction

The Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad was a 167-mile standard-gauge shortline railroad built to connect borax mines in Death Valley, California, with broader rail networks, while tapping into Nevada’s gold and silver rushes. Incorporated on July 19, 1904, by industrialist Francis Marion “Borax” Smith, the line ran from Ludlow, California—on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway mainline—to Beatty, Nevada, with extensions to Goldfield and Rhyolite via acquired lines like the Bullfrog Goldfield Railroad. Despite its ambitious name suggesting endpoints at Tonopah, Nevada, and San Diego’s “tidewater,” it never reached either. The T&T hauled borax, lead, silver, clay, and general freight, peaking in the 1910s before declining due to the Great Depression and waning mining activity. Operations ceased in 1940, with rails scrapped by 1943.

Broadwell Station, one of many sidings along the route, was essential for operational continuity in the arid Mojave. This report examines its location, facilities, historical role, and legacy, drawing from railroad records, historical markers, and archival sources.

Historical Background of the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad

The T&T’s origins trace to Smith’s Pacific Coast Borax Company, which sought efficient transport from Death Valley mines to Los Angeles refineries. Initial plans involved a connection from Las Vegas via Senator William A. Clark’s Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad, but competition led Smith to pivot to Ludlow as the southern terminus in 1905. Construction began in August 1905, crossing Broadwell Dry Lake early in the build, and reached Gold Center, Nevada, by 1907.

The line’s route traversed harsh terrain, including Amargosa Valley and the Panamint Mountains, with key stations like Shoshone, Tecopa, and Death Valley Junction serving mining hubs. It connected with the narrow-gauge Death Valley Railroad at Death Valley Junction for spurs to the Ryan borax works. By 1908, acquisition of the Bullfrog Goldfield Railroad extended service to Nevada boomtowns, boosting passenger and ore traffic. Daily trains carried up to 20 cars of freight, supported by water towers, section houses, and sidings.

Economic decline hit in the 1920s–1930s: borax operations waned, gold prices fluctuated, and truck competition emerged. Segments like the 26-mile stretch from Ludlow to Crucero (near Broadwell) were abandoned in 1933. Full suspension came in 1940, with the company dissolving by 1946. Today, parts of the grade are hiking trails in Death Valley National Park or parallel California State Route 127.

Location and Facilities

Broadwell Station lay approximately 10–15 miles north of Ludlow, California, on the T&T’s southern end, at about milepost 10–12 from Ludlow. It was positioned adjacent to Broadwell Dry Lake, a vast playa that facilitated rapid early construction in 1905, as the flat, firm surface allowed quick track-laying across the dry lakebed.

As a siding station, Broadwell’s infrastructure was modest, typical of T&T’s remote outposts:

  • Siding Track: A short spur for passing or storing cars, essential for single-track operations.
  • Water Facilities: Likely a basic water tank or pumping station, critical in the water-scarce Mojave for steam locomotives.
  • Section House: A small maintenance shed or bunkhouse for track crews, though not as developed as larger stations like Tecopa.
  • No Major Agency: Unlike Shoshone or Beatty, Broadwell lacked a full telegraph office or passenger depot; it served primarily freight and operational needs.

The station’s proximity to Interstate 15 off-ramps today makes remnants accessible, though erosion and off-road use have obscured much of the site within the Mojave National Preserve.

Station ComparisonBroadwellShoshoneTecopa
Primary FunctionSiding/Water StopMining Hub/AgencyOre Branch Junction
Key InfrastructureSiding, Water TankDepot, Section House, TelegraphBranch to Mines, Water Tower
Peak Traffic (1910s)Low (Freight Sidings)High (Borax/Ore)Medium (Lead/Silver)
Abandonment Year1933 (Partial Line)19401940

Role and Operations

Broadwell’s role was operational rather than commercial. During construction (1905–1906), crews used the dry lake for efficient grading, reaching Dumont (milepost ~50) by May 1906. In service from 1907, it handled southbound borax from Death Valley and northbound supplies to Nevada mines, with trains averaging 10–15 mph over the desert grades.

Traffic peaked in the 1910s, with the T&T moving thousands of tons of borax annually—e.g., from Harmony and Ryan mines—plus gold ore from Rhyolite. Broadwell facilitated crew changes or water stops for the 4-6-0 steam locomotives, like T&T No. 1 (a Baldwin built for the Wisconsin and Michigan Railroad). Passenger service, via mixed trains, offered basic accommodations, but Broadwell saw minimal boardings.

By the 1930s, talc and clay shipments sustained the line, but the Ludlow–Crucero segment (including Broadwell) closed in 1933 due to low volume. The station’s isolation amplified challenges like dust storms and flash floods, yet it symbolized the T&T’s endurance as the last Death Valley railroad, outlasting rivals by decades.

Decline and Current Status

The T&T’s fortunes mirrored the region’s: mining busts post-1910s, the 1929 crash, and highway trucking doomed it. Post-1940 abandonment, rails were recycled for WWII, leaving ties repurposed in local buildings. Broadwell’s remnants—faint grades and scatters of ties—are now Mojave National Preserve features, viewable via off-road trails from I-15. No formal markers exist at the site, but nearby Ludlow’s Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad Shops Historical Marker (dedicated 1994) references the dry lake crossing.

The route’s legacy endures in museums like the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad Museum at Death Valley Junction, with artifacts, photos, and model trains. Hiking trails along the grade, such as near Baker, CA, allow exploration, highlighting the engineering feats of desert railroading.

Conclusion

Broadwell Station, though unassuming, was integral to the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad’s mission of bridging Death Valley’s isolation with America’s industrial heartland. It embodied the grit of early 20th-century expansion—fueled by borax barons like Smith—while underscoring the fragility of boomtown economies. Today, as a faded trace in the Mojave, Broadwell invites reflection on how railroads shaped the American West, paving (literally) the way for modern highways and preserves. Preservation efforts could further illuminate such sites, ensuring the T&T’s “Nevada Short Line” story endures.

References

  • Abandoned Rails. “The Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad.” Accessed via web search, 2025.
  • Historical Marker Database. “Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad Shops Historical Marker.” Ludlow, CA, 1994.
  • Myrick, David F. Railroads of Nevada and Eastern California, Volume II. Howell-North Books, 1963.
  • Shoshone Museum. “Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad.” shoshonemuseum.org, accessed 2025.
  • UNLV Special Collections. “Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad Records, 1905–1977.” special.library.unlv.edu.

Ryan California – Inyo County Ghosttown

Perched precariously on the steep eastern flanks of the Amargosa Range at an elevation of 3,045 feet (928 meters), Ryan, California—once a thriving borax mining outpost—clings to the rugged edge of Death Valley National Park like a faded photograph from the early 20th century. This unincorporated community in Inyo County, just 8 miles northeast of Dante’s View and 15 miles southeast of Furnace Creek, embodies the stark contrasts of the American desert frontier: blistering heat by day, bone-chilling nights, and the relentless pursuit of mineral wealth amid isolation. Founded as a company town by the Pacific Coast Borax Company in 1914, Ryan served as the nerve center for extracting the “white gold” of the Mojave, fueling industries from glassmaking to detergents. Today, as a meticulously preserved ghost town under private stewardship, it offers a rare, unvarnished glimpse into the lives of borax miners and the pivot to tourism that briefly extended its lifespan. Though closed to casual visitors, Ryan’s 2025 designation on the National Register of Historic Places underscores its enduring significance as a cultural relic of industrial ambition and human resilience in one of North America’s harshest landscapes.

Postcard showing a panoramic view of Ryan, a mining camp in the Death Valley, California, ca.1920 - Photo Credit “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.
Postcard showing a panoramic view of Ryan, a mining camp in the Death Valley, California, ca.1920 – Photo Credit “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.

Early Prospecting and Settlement (1880s–1913)

The saga of Ryan unfolds against the backdrop of Death Valley’s borax boom, a chapter in the broader narrative of California’s mineral rushes that followed the silver frenzies of the Comstock Lode. Borax, a sodium borate compound essential for soap, ceramics, and fireproofing, was first discovered in the region in 1872 near Furnace Creek. By 1882, prospector Isadore Daixel had staked claims in the Funeral Mountains, identifying rich deposits of colemanite—a hydrated calcium borate—at what would become the Lila C Mine. Named after Lila C. Coleman, daughter of borax magnate William Tell Coleman, the Lila C site emerged as a modest camp by the early 1900s, drawing hardy laborers to its sun-scorched slopes where temperatures routinely exceeded 120°F (49°C) and water was hauled in by mule teams.

In 1907, the Pacific Coast Borax Company (PCB), under the visionary leadership of figures like Stephen Mather (later the first director of the National Park Service), formalized operations. A post office opened that year at Lila C, marking the camp’s transition from tent city to semblance of permanence. Miners, a mix of American, Mexican, and European immigrants, toiled in hand-dug adits, extracting colemanite via shallow pits and rudimentary ore chutes. The air hummed with the clatter of picks and the lowing of burros, while sagebrush-dotted arroyos carried faint echoes of multilingual banter around campfires fueled by creosote branches. Yet, the site’s remoteness—over 100 miles from the nearest railhead at Ludlow—hampered efficiency, prompting PCB to envision a more ambitious hub.

Boomtown Ascendancy and Industrial Might (1914–1927)

The year 1914 heralded Ryan’s explosive rebirth. To streamline logistics, PCB relocated operations 11 miles northwest of Lila C, constructing a new camp initially dubbed “Devar” (an acronym for Death Valley Railroad, later mangled to “Devair” on maps). Renamed Ryan in tribute to John Ryan (1849–1918), the company’s steadfast general manager who oversaw its expansion from San Francisco’s borax refineries to the Mojave’s veins, the site burgeoned into a model company town. By 1916, it boasted 54 buildings: bunkhouses for 300 workers, a two-story hospital with steam heat, a schoolhouse for the children of miners, a post office-cum-general store stocked with canned goods and patent medicines, assay offices, machine shops, and a recreation hall—originally a church shipped intact from the ghost town of Rhyolite, Nevada, in 1919.

At its core pulsed the mining infrastructure: the Lila C Mine, joined by the Jumbo, Biddy, and Widow complexes, yielded thousands of tons of colemanite annually, processed via a web of aerial tramways that whisked ore 1,000 feet down the canyon to loading platforms. The “Baby Gauge,” a narrow-gauge mine railroad snaking south from Ryan, shuttled loaded skips, while the full Death Valley Railroad—PCB’s 3-foot-gauge marvel—linked Ryan to the borax works at Death Valley Junction 20 miles east, ferrying passengers and freight through tunnel-pocked canyons. Electricity from a hydroelectric plant at Navel Spring illuminated the nights, refrigeration preserved perishables, and a tennis court hinted at leisure amid the grind. Population swelled to around 2,000 at peak, a polyglot mosaic where Cornish pumpmen rubbed shoulders with Mexican muleteers, all sustained by PCB’s paternalistic ethos of fair wages, medical care, and communal suppers under star-pricked skies. Ryan’s streets, graded dirt ribbons flanked by adobe and frame structures, thrummed with the rhythm of shift changes, the whistle of locomotives, and the distant rumble of ore cars—a desert symphony of progress.

Photograph of the "Baby Gauge" (aka "Baby Gage") mine train at the mining camp of Ryan, Death Valley, ca.1900-1950. A car with one headlight can be seen at center on tracks pulling a platform with four benches upon it. Someone can be seen driving the car, while four men and women sit on the benches. A small wooden shack with a portion of the roof missing can be seen behind the platform, while a ladder, wooden planks, and more tracks are visible at left. A valley and mountains can be seen in the background. - “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.
Photograph of the “Baby Gauge” (aka “Baby Gage”) mine train at the mining camp of Ryan, Death Valley, ca.1900-1950. A car with one headlight can be seen at center on tracks pulling a platform with four benches upon it. Someone can be seen driving the car, while four men and women sit on the benches. A small wooden shack with a portion of the roof missing can be seen behind the platform, while a ladder, wooden planks, and more tracks are visible at left. A valley and mountains can be seen in the background. – “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.

Decline and Reinvention (1928–1950s)

As with many Mojave outposts, Ryan’s fortunes waned with depleting veins and shifting markets. By 1927, high-grade colemanite reserves dwindled, and PCB shuttered the mines in 1928, idling the tramways and silencing the Baby Gauge. Undeterred, the company pivoted to tourism, rebranding Ryan as the Death Valley View Hotel in 1927—a plush resort with 20 guest rooms, a dining hall, and scenic overlooks drawing Hollywood elites and Eastern sightseers via the Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad. The Death Valley Railroad extended its life, offering excursion trains into the ghost mines until its decommissioning in 1930 amid the Great Depression’s grip.

The hotel limped on as overflow lodging for Furnace Creek’s inns through the 1940s, hosting episodes of Death Valley Days radio broadcasts and even serving as a Cold War fallout shelter in the 1950s. Yet, by the mid-1950s, patronage faded, leaving Ryan in caretaker status: a skeletal ensemble of weathered bunkhouses and rusting rail sidings, patrolled by lone watchmen amid encroaching creosote and jackrabbits. The 1933 creation of Death Valley National Monument (upgraded to national park in 1994) encircled but spared the private enclave, preserving its isolation.

Current Status (As of November 2025)

In a twist of serendipitous stewardship, Ryan’s nadir became its salvation. After decades under U.S. Borax (formed by PCB’s 1956 merger) and subsequent owner Rio Tinto (acquired 1967), the site was donated to the newly formed Death Valley Conservancy (DVC) on May 6, 2013—complete with 640 acres, 22 buildings, 16 archaeological sites, and mineral rights, bolstered by endowments for upkeep. This act, championed by Rio Tinto’s Preston Chiaro and spurred by National Park Service overtures since 2005, averted decay and positioned Ryan as a living laboratory for preservation.

Today, Ryan stands as one of the West’s best-preserved mining camps, its adobe walls and timber frames stabilized per the Secretary of the Interior’s standards. The Ryan Rec Hall’s multi-year restoration, ongoing since 2019, exemplifies efforts to blend education with conservation, supporting research in archaeology, industrial history, and desert ecology. The Ryan Historic District—encompassing rail remnants, mine complexes, and trails—was nominated in 2024 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places on January 27, 2025, honoring its multifaceted legacy from borax extraction to mid-century media outpost.

Public access remains tightly controlled for safety—unstable shafts and seismic risks abound—with no roads or services on-site. Visitors must enter a lottery for guided tours via the DVC website, typically limited to small groups exploring the schoolhouse’s chalk-scarred blackboards or the hotel’s faded lobby. Recent 2025 initiatives include enhanced water harvesting at Navel Spring and interpretive signage, while social media whispers of drone-captured sunsets over the bunkhouses fuel #DeathValleyGhostTown fervor. Amid Death Valley’s 2025 tourism surge—bolstered by cooler monsoons—Ryan endures not as a relic, but a resilient echo: where the wind through abandoned tram towers carries the ghosts of gandy dancers and the promise of rediscovery for those who draw the tour ticket. For bookings and updates, consult the Death Valley Conservancy at dvconservancy.org.

Town Summary

NameRyan California
Also Known AsColemanite,
Devair,
New Ryan
LocationDeath Valley National Park, San Bernardino County, California
Latitude, Longitude36.3213, -116.6697
Elevation928 meters / 3045 feet
GNIS1661348

Ryan Town Map

References

Hart California – San Bernardino County Ghosttown

Hart, California, was a fleeting gold mining settlement in the remote northeastern corner of San Bernardino County, nestled in the Mojave Desert on the northeastern edge of Lanfair Valley, near the New York Mountains and close to the Nevada border. Today, the site lies within the boundaries of Castle Mountains National Monument, a protected area proclaimed in 2016 to preserve its unique desert landscape, biodiversity, and historical resources. The town, often referred to simply as Hart (or sometimes associated with the broader Hart Mining District, also known as the Castle Mountain District), exemplifies the classic “boom-and-bust” cycle of early 20th-century desert mining communities in Southern California.

View of Hart, California in 1908, looking northwest
View of Hart, California in 1908, looking northwest

Discovery and Boom (1907–1909)

The story of Hart began in December 1907, when prospectors Jim Hart (after whom the town was named) and brothers Bert and Clark Hitt discovered rich gold deposits in the rugged Castle Mountains. News of the strike spread rapidly during the waning years of the California Gold Rush era’s tail end, attracting hundreds of fortune-seekers to this isolated region. By early 1908, a tent camp had sprung up around the original claim, quickly evolving into a structured townsite.

The settlement grew explosively. Within months, Hart boasted a population that swelled to around 1,500 residents at its peak in the summer of 1908. Infrastructure developed hastily to support the influx: a post office opened, a weekly newspaper called the Enterprise was published (1908–1909), telephone and telegraph lines connected the town to nearby Barnwell, and a water pipeline was laid. The nearest railroad siding was at Hitt, about 3.5 miles away, facilitating supplies and ore transport.

Hart’s commercial district reflected the rowdy, opportunistic spirit of mining camps. Amenities included:

  • Hotels such as the Norton House, Martin House, and the cheaper Star rooming house (a flophouse for transient workers).
  • Two general stores (one being Hart-Gosney), a bakery, candy store, real-estate office, book and cigar store, and two lumberyards.
  • Eight saloons with colorful names like Hart and Hitt, Arlington Club, Honest John, Oro Belle, and Northern Bar.
  • A brothel, a miners’ union hall, and even a voting precinct and justice-court township.

The primary mines driving this prosperity were the Oro Belle (the original Hart-Hitt claim, sold in 1908 for $100,000 to the Oro Belle Mining Company of Duluth, Minnesota) and the Big Chief (formerly Jumbo), both operated by interests tied to the Hart brothers. A 10-stamp mill was constructed at the Big Chief to process ore. High-grade gold pockets yielded impressive early returns, fueling speculation and drawing investors.

The Northern Club, downtown Hart, California in 1908
The Northern Club, downtown Hart, California in 1908

Decline and Abandonment (1909–1918)

Despite the initial frenzy, Hart’s riches proved illusory. The gold deposits were in small, erratic pockets within silicified breccia zones hosted in Tertiary-age rhyolite and tuff, rather than large, consistent veins. By late 1909, production plummeted as easily accessible high-grade ore was exhausted. Most surrounding claims followed suit, yielding little profit. The Oro Belle Mine, the town’s flagship operation, never turned a substantial profit and ceased major activity around 1915, with final shutdown in 1918.

As mines closed, residents departed en masse for more promising strikes elsewhere. By the mid-1910s, Hart was largely deserted, joining the ranks of California’s many ghost towns. The post office closed, businesses shuttered, and structures fell into disrepair amid the harsh desert environment.

Current Status

Today, Hart is a true ghost town with no permanent inhabitants or active structures from its boom era. The townsite itself has been heavily impacted by later mining: in the 1990s, the area hosted the modern open-pit Castle Mountain Mine (operated by Viceroy Resources), a large-scale heap-leach gold operation that disturbed much of the historic footprint. Remnants of the original town—foundations, scattered artifacts, and mine workings—are faint or overwritten.

The entire area, including the Hart townsite and Castle Mountains, was incorporated into Castle Mountains National Monument in 2016, managed by the National Park Service within the Mojave National Preserve ecosystem. Access is limited to dirt roads (such as Hart Mine Road), requiring high-clearance vehicles, and the monument emphasizes preservation of natural and cultural resources. A historical marker, erected in 1984 by E Clampus Vitus chapters and the Bureau of Land Management, stands near the site (coordinates approximately 35°17.047’N, 115°6.883’W), commemorating the 1907 discovery and the town’s brief existence.

Visitors occasionally explore the remote area for off-roading, hiking, or historical interest, but it remains desolate—windswept desert terrain dotted with Joshua trees, creosote bushes, and distant views toward Nevada. No commercial facilities exist nearby (the closest services are in Nipton or Searchlight, Nevada). The monument’s protected status prohibits new mining or development, ensuring Hart’s legacy as a quiet relic of California’s gold-seeking past endures in one of the most isolated corners of San Bernardino County.

Ghost Town Summary

NameHart, California
LocationSan Bernardino County, California
Latitude, Longitude35.2888, -115.1033
Elevation1393 meters / 4570 feet
Population
GNIS1660728

Hart Ghost Map

References