John Bull Trail 3N10

The John Bull Trail 3N10 has the solid reputation as one of the toughest and most challenging trails in the Big Bear mountains of San Bernardino County.   This trail should only be done with in a group of well-equipped short-wheelbase vehicles. Lockers are recommended, but not always required. The entire trail is strewn with boulders of various sizes. There are also a number of sharp drop-offs along the way. Be prepared for scratches, dings and flat tires. This trail is not for stock SUV’s.

The trail is part of the “Adopt a Trail” program through the National Forest Service, and has been adopted by the So Cal Broncos (east end) and the Waywegos 4 Wheel Drive Club (west end).

Running the trail west to east is somewhat easier, there is a campground at the western starting point. Most off-roaders prefer to start at the east end of the trail. The official start point is off of the Burnt Flats Trail (3N02), although many catch it at the end of 3N32.

Around April/May 2009 the ends of the John Bull Trail 3N10 has had more boulders pushed in to make more difficult “gateways”, which prevent under-equipped 4x4s from running the trail.

A Forest Service Adventure Passes are required if you plan on stopping along the way. As of September 2016, forest visitors parked in standard amenity recreation fee sites in the four southern California national forests must display a valid recreation pass. This includes sites on the Angeles, Cleveland, Los Padres and San Bernardino National Forests. Such is the once great state of California.

Trail Summary

NameJohn bull Trail
LocationBig Bear, San Bernardino, California
Length14.4 Miles
Elevation Gain1768 feet
Route TypeLoop
DifficultyDifficult

John Bull Trailmap

Old Mojave Road

The Old Mojave Road (Government Road) is an east-west route that enters the Mojave National Preserve off the highway 95 in Nevada, and Afton Canyon on the west side.  Some sections are rough and sandy; 4 x 4 recommended. Roads can become slick, muddy and impassable after rains. Be sure to inquire about road conditions, especially if you plan to cross Soda Dry Lake.

The railroad monument along the Old Mojave Road in the Mojave National Preserve.
The railroad monument along the Old Mojave Road in the Mojave National Preserve.

The Mojave Road is party of the Old Spanish Trail, which is a 700 mile long historical trade route that connected the northern New Mexico settlements near Santa Fe, New Mexico with those of Los Angeles, California. The Old Spanish trail’s rugged terrain discouraged the use of wagons. It was always a pack route, mainly used by men and mules. Used by Indians to transport goods from the southwest to trade with the Chumash and other coastal tribes, this route later served the cause of westward expansion. Military forts were established along the route to protect key water sources and provide assistance for travelers.

The route at one time was for all intents and purposes lost until Dennis Casebier and Friends researched the route and reestablished the trail as if it know today and is a popular four-wheel drive road.

The eastern section of the Old Mojave Road leaves US 95 in Nevada near Laughlin moving westward.  The eastern section climbs up to Fort Piute and continues past an old corral one a rocky climb.  Once up on the plateau, the road continues to travel west to Nipton Road.

Bert Smith's Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve
Bert Smith’s Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve

The central section starts at Nipton Road and continues west to Kelbaker road near Baker, CA.  The road starts rather narrow with high brush offering the opportunity for some new desert pin-striping.

Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.
Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.

A short declination which offers the only real obstacle near Rock Spring.  Burt Smiths cabin and the Government Holes water offer short hikes and distractions from the trail.  Once you cross the Kelso Cima Road, about 5 miles of  “whoop de doos” will rock you to sleep.  The center section offers the most to see, and if you choose one section, this would be it in our opinion.

The western section leaves Kelbaker road and continues west into the dry soda lake south of Baker.  The western section of the route can best be described as dry and sandy.  A larger mine complex and Afton Canyon are the major sights.

Afton Canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.
Afton Canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.

In addition to over 100 miles of 4×4 trail, the Old Mojave road offers access to mines, old homesteads, and other 4×4 routes.  The Old Mojave can be run either way and in a single long day, or in thirds with access being provided from Kelbaker road out of Baker or the Nipton Road in the the East.  However, for the best experience, take your time and run the trail in Multiple days and overnight in one of many primitive or established Campgrounds.

Old Mojave Road Trail Map

Morning Star Mine

Located in the Ivanpah Mountains, the Morning Star Mine is a gold / silver mine located near to California / Nevada border near Mountain Pass. The mining district enjoys amazing views and lots of wild life and wild flowers during the spring of each year, which are easily accessible from a grade dirt road. Numerous lower traffic side trails will allow access of other places to explore.

A remote side road leading a old mine site in the Ivanpah Mountains near the Morning Star Mine.
A remote side road leading a old mine site in the Ivanpah Mountains near the Morning Star Mine.

The location was first worked in 1907 and was known as the Clansman mine. Operations were initially quite small and in 1931 only two miners were on location. In 1937 the owner J. B. Mighton and Brown optioned the property to Richard Malik, who worked the location significantly until 1938.

The Morning Star Mine Cutoff Road.
The Morning Star Mine Cutoff Road.

Erle P. Halliburton worked the mine with ten men, starting in April of 1939. Halliburton known today, as the founder of his name sake company, Halliburton Oil. Mr. Halliburton made his fortune in Duncan Oklahoma where he borrowed a wagon, a team of mules and a pump, he built a wooden mixing box and started an oil well cementing business. The Halliburton efforts at this site where forced closed in 1942 by the War Productions Board order to close gold mining for the war effort.

Erle P Hallibuton 1940 - SMU Central University Libraries @ Flickr CommonsSouthern Methodist University, Central University Libraries, DeGolyer Library
Erle P Hallibuton 1940 – SMU Central University Libraries @ Flickr CommonsSouthern Methodist University, Central University Libraries, DeGolyer Library

Following Halliburton’s death in 1957, the property was acquired by the Vanderbilt Gold Corporation in 1964, where upon the location was drilled and sampled. Fifteen years later, in 1979 the company finally complete a capital raise the in Morning Star mine was again on operation as an underground mine utilizing trackless mining equipment and the ore processed in nearby Vanderbilt, California. Due to the time period, this was probably the Goldome Mill and not within the town of Vanderbilt.

The modern Morning Star Mine site is not much to look at and a locked gate prevents access.
The modern Morning Star Mine site is not much to look at and a locked gate prevents access.

After just three years of operations, mining operations were again halted in 1983, due to the dropping price of Gold, however underground explorations continued with long hole drilling and testing. From 1984 – 1993 saw increased gold and silver production to the amount of about 75,000 tons per month. Water supply problems plagued the operation, however, with the price of gold between $350 and $500 per once the Vanderbilt operation made a return.

A vertical mine shaft is protected by a metal grate.
A vertical mine shaft is protected by a metal grate nearby the Morning Star Mine.

The mine was finally closed in 1993 after the gold prices dropped and several environmental violations and animal deaths caused by cyanide poisoning. With the creation of the Mojave Nation Preserve in 1994 from the California Desert Protection act, the NPS inherited an environmental problem and it slowly continues to clean up the site. At this point, access to the location is blocked with a locked gate. It was noted that several building and a milling foundations remain from this relatively modern mining endeavor.

A horizontal shaft in the Ivanpah Mountains.
A horizontal shaft in the Ivanpah Mountains.

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Snow plant (Sarcodes sanguinea)

Snow plant (Sarcodes sanguinea) in Big Bear, California
Snow plant (Sarcodes sanguinea) in Big Bear, California

The Snow plant (Sarcodes sanguinea) is a rather rare and unique member of the plant community. The scientific name roughly translates to “the bloody flesh-like thing” and named by John Torrey, who was a 19th century botanist. The name is easily understood when walking through a snowy section of mountains and you happen across a bright red plant.

This solitary little plant is completely red is color due to its complete lack of chlorophyll. Unable to photosynthesize, this plant derives its nutrition from a mutual-ism between the plant and a fungus. The snow plant provides fixed carbon to the fungus, and in return, the plant leaches sugars from the fungus.

The red flowered plant typically appears just before the last of the snows of winter. The above ground stalk typically does not exceed 12 inches in height. The plant is typically founded in the conifer forests of California, Oregon and parts of western Nevada. The plants are essentially parasites to the conifers and as such, typically found close to them.

The flowers of the snow plant are typically tightly packed around the singular stalk and evenly spaced. The plant is typically bright red in color and the fruit is pinkish red.

Frank “Shorty” Harris

Frank “Shorty” Harris (1857–1934) was one of the most colorful and enduring figures of the American desert West—a short-statured, hard-drinking, single-blanket jackass prospector whose 1904 discovery of the Bullfrog Mine in Nevada’s Bullfrog Hills triggered one of the last great gold rushes of the early 20th century and gave birth to the boomtown of Rhyolite in Nye County. Though he never grew rich from his strikes and cheerfully sold or gambled away most of his claims, Harris became a living legend in the Death Valley region. His later 1905 gold find with Pete Aguereberry at Harrisburg in the Panamint Mountains further cemented his reputation as a man who could “smell gold.” For more than three decades he wandered the harsh terrain of Death Valley (California) and adjacent Nye County, Nevada, embodying the romantic, footloose desert rat long after the major booms had faded.

Frank “Shorty” Harris

Early Life and Wanderings

Born Frank Harris on July 21, 1857 (some accounts say 1856), near Providence, Rhode Island, he was orphaned at age seven when both parents died. Raised by an aunt who treated him harshly, he ran away at nine to work in textile mills. In the late 1870s, at about age twenty, he rode the rails west seeking fortune in the mines. Standing only five feet four inches tall, he earned the nickname “Shorty” early on.

Harris chased every major rush of the era: Leadville, Colorado; Tombstone, Arizona; the Coeur d’Alene district in Idaho; and others. He reached the Death Valley country in the 1880s–1890s, prospecting around Ballarat, California, and later the great Nevada booms at Tonopah and Goldfield. Like most old-time prospectors, he arrived too late for the richest ground and never accumulated lasting wealth. What he did accumulate was an encyclopedic knowledge of the desert, a gift for tall tales, and a reputation for generosity mixed with wild exaggeration.

The Bullfrog Discovery and Nye County Legacy (1904)

Harris’s most famous strike came on August 9, 1904, in the Bullfrog Hills of southern Nye County, Nevada, just east of Death Valley. Traveling with partner Ernest “Ed” Cross, he was camped at Buck Springs (near present-day Beatty) after leaving the Keane Wonder Mine. While chasing stray burros one morning, Shorty stubbed his toe on a rock, looked down, and saw a greenish quartz ledge speckled with visible gold—“jewelry stone” so rich it assayed at up to $3,000 per ton. The pair named their claim the Bullfrog Mine because the ore’s color reminded them of a frog’s back.

Word spread like wildfire. Within days a stampede erupted from Goldfield and Tonopah; newspapers called it one of the wildest rushes in Western history. New towns sprang up almost overnight—Rhyolite, Bullfrog, Amargosa City, and others. Rhyolite, founded in 1905 on the slopes below the discovery, quickly became Nye County’s premier mining metropolis. At its peak (1906–1908) it boasted 5,000–10,000 residents, three railroads, a stock exchange, opera house, ice plant, and concrete buildings that still stand today as ghostly ruins. The Bullfrog Mining District produced nearly $1.7 million in gold between 1907 and 1910, though production declined sharply afterward.

Characteristically, Harris and Cross sold their interests early and cheaply. Shorty reportedly gambled or drank away much of his share (one account says he traded it for $1,000 and a mule). He never profited from the district he helped create, yet he remained proud of the strike that “made Rhyolite grow like a mushroom.” His role in Nye County mining history is foundational: the Bullfrog rush revived interest in the Amargosa-Death Valley borderlands and briefly turned a remote corner of Nye County into a symbol of Nevada’s final great mining boom.

One night, when I was pretty well lit up, a man by the name of Bryan took me to his room and put me to bed. The next morning, when I woke up, I had a bad headache and wanted more liquor. Bryan had left several bottles of whiskey on a chair beside the bed and locked the door. I helped myself and went back to sleep. That was the start of the longest jag I ever went on; it lasted six days. When I came to, Bryan showed me a bill of sale for the Bullfrog, and the price was only $25,000. I got plenty sore, but it didn’t do any good. There was my signature on the paper and beside it, the signatures of seven witnesses and the notary’s seal. And I felt a lot worse when I found out that Ed had been paid a hundred and twenty-five thousand for his half, and had lit right out for Lone Pine, where he got married.

Frank “Shorty” Harris
Touring Topics: Magazine of the American Automobile Association of Southern California
October 1930

Harrisburg and Continued Death Valley Prospecting (1905 onward)

In June 1905, still riding the wave of his Bullfrog fame, Harris teamed with French-Basque prospector Pete Aguereberry. While crossing the Panamint Mountains toward Ballarat for the Fourth of July, they found free gold on a ridge in what became known as Harrisburg Flats. Pete staked the north side (Eureka Mine) and Shorty the south. A tent camp of several hundred people briefly flourished before fading; the site was first called “Harrisberry” in Shorty’s honor, then Harrisburg. Aguereberry eventually won legal control of the Eureka and worked it alone for decades, while Harris moved on.

Harris continued roaming the Death Valley region for the rest of his life—prospecting, guiding occasional visitors, and living the minimalist existence of a “single blanket jackass prospector.” He preferred the freedom of the desert to the comforts of town, often traveling with a string of burros and little else.

Personality, Later Years, and Death

Shorty was famous for his wit, storytelling, and love of saloons. He claimed to have attended every major rush since the 1880s and delighted in recounting (and embellishing) his adventures. Despite his rough edges, he was well-liked and generous. In his final years he lived quietly in a cabin near Big Pine, California.

Ill for some time, Frank “Shorty” Harris died in his sleep on November 10, 1934, at age 77. True to his wishes, he was buried in Death Valley near the grave of his friend James Dayton. His simple marker carries the epitaph he requested:

“Here lies Shorty Harris, a single blanket jackass prospector.”

Legacy in Nye County and Death Valley

Though he left no fortune, Shorty Harris’s discoveries shaped the historical landscape of both regions. In Nye County, the ruins of Rhyolite and the scattered remnants of Bullfrog stand as monuments to the rush he ignited. In Death Valley National Park, the Harrisburg site and Aguereberry Camp preserve the memory of his partnership with Pete Aguereberry. His name appears in trail guides, park literature, and countless desert histories. More than any bank account, Shorty valued the freedom of the open desert and the camaraderie of fellow prospectors. In an era of corporate mining, he represented the last generation of lone wanderers who opened the final frontiers of the American West.

“I hear that Frisco is a ghost town now—abandoned and the buildings falling to ruin. That is what happened to many of the towns where I worked in the early days, but nobody then would have thought it was possible. Even now, it’s hard for me to believe that owls are roosting over those old bars where we lined up for drinks, and sagebrush is growing in the streets.”

Frank Shorty Harris

“almost as hell-roaring a place as Leadville. The boys were all decorated with six-guns and believe me, they knew how to use them. The handiest on the draw stayed in town, but those that were too slow made a one-way trip to Boot-Hill

Frank Shorty Harris – On Tombstone in 1885

Articles Tagged Shorty Harris

One of the few remaining structures in Bullfrog, Nevada - Photo by James L Rathbun

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Rhyolite, Nevada photo by James L Rathbun

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