White Crack Campground

Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

White Crack Campground is a remote backcountry camping area in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, located along the White Rim Trail. This single campsite, accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, is one of the most isolated and scenic along the trail, offering unparalleled views of the Maze, Needles, and Island in the Sky districts. Perched at approximately 4,500 feet elevation, the site features expansive vistas of dramatic red rock formations, deep canyons, and distant mesas, with Candlestick Tower and the Colorado River’s gooseneck bends visible on clear days. The campground is primitive, with no potable water, shade, or wind protection, requiring campers to bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. A vault toilet is available, but reviews note it can be odor-prone in warmer months. The terrain is rocky and uneven, suitable for tents but challenging for securing stakes due to the hard ground. Stargazing is exceptional due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with campers describing the night sky as “otherworldly.” Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the road to White Crack is rugged and unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with oversized campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, especially in spring and fall. The site’s isolation and proximity to trail’s end make it a coveted spot for those seeking solitude.

White Rim Trail

The White Rim Trail is a legendary 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, renowned for its challenging terrain and jaw-dropping desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular among mountain bikers, follows the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering sweeping views of red rock canyons, buttes, and river valleys. Notable highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with its panoramic views of three park districts), and Murphy Hogback, which provides 360-degree vistas. The trail’s terrain varies from wide dirt roads to sandy stretches and technical jeep trails with cliff exposure, particularly at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of about 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically taking 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in a single day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including White Crack Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best times to visit are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer brings extreme heat and winter may bring closures.

Gooseberry Campground

Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

Gooseberry Campground is a remote backcountry camping area located along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district. The campground consists of two designated sites (Gooseberry A and B), each accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, designed to provide privacy with sites spaced to minimize visibility and noise from one another. Situated at approximately 4,600 feet elevation, the campground offers stunning views of the surrounding desert landscape, including red rock canyons, mesas, and distant buttes, with the La Sal Mountains visible on clear days. The sites are primitive, lacking potable water, shade, or wind protection, so campers must bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. Each site shares a vault toilet, though reviews mention occasional odors, especially in warmer months. The terrain is rocky and hard-packed, suitable for tents but challenging for securing stakes. Stargazing is a highlight due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with campers noting the night sky’s clarity as a standout feature. Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the trail’s rugged roads are unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with oversized campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with large campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, particularly in spring and fall. Gooseberry’s location near the trail’s midpoint makes it a strategic stop for multi-day White Rim Trail adventures.

White Rim Trail

The White Rim Trail is a renowned 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, celebrated for its challenging terrain and breathtaking desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular with mountain bikers, traces the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering panoramic views of red rock canyons, towering buttes, and river valleys. Key highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with views of the Maze and Needles districts), and Murphy Hogback, known for its 360-degree vistas. The trail features a mix of wide dirt roads, sandy patches, and technical jeep trails with some cliff exposure, notably at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of approximately 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically requiring 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in one day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including Gooseberry Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best seasons are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer is extremely hot and winter may bring closures.

John Wesley Powell

John Wesley Powell, a remarkable American explorer, geologist, and ethnologist, was born on March 24, 1834, in Mount Morris, New York. His expeditions through the uncharted territories of the American West not only added to scientific knowledge but also provided invaluable insights into the land’s geological and cultural diversity. Powell’s legacy as a pioneer of exploration and his tireless efforts in promoting conservation measures have left an indelible mark on American history.

Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.
Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.

Early Life and Education

Powell grew up in rural New York, where his love for nature and the outdoors was nurtured from an early age. Although he lost his right arm in a childhood accident, Powell’s determination and thirst for adventure were undeterred. He developed a keen interest in natural sciences and geography and pursued higher education at Illinois College and later at Oberlin College, where he focused on geology.

Grand Canyon Expeditions

Powell’s most famous and daring expedition was his 1869 journey down the Colorado River, known as the Powell Geographic Expedition. With a team of nine men, Powell set out to explore the largely uncharted canyons and rapids of the Colorado River and gather valuable scientific data. The expedition faced numerous hardships, including treacherous rapids, scarce food supplies, and hostile encounters with Native American tribes. Miraculously, Powell and his crew successfully navigated the treacherous river and completed the journey, providing unprecedented knowledge of the Grand Canyon and its geological formations.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

Powell’s subsequent expeditions further solidified his reputation as a fearless explorer. He embarked on multiple journeys across the American West, including explorations of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Rocky Mountains, and the Uinta Mountains. Powell’s meticulous record-keeping and scientific observations greatly expanded the understanding of the region’s geology, hydrology, and ethnography.

Scientific Contributions

Powell’s expeditions were not merely adventurous endeavors but also scientific ventures aimed at advancing knowledge in various fields. He published numerous papers and reports detailing his findings, including “Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries” and “Canons of the Colorado.” These works significantly contributed to the geological understanding of the American West, shaping subsequent research and studies in the region.

Additionally, Powell’s expertise in ethnology led him to conduct extensive research on Native American tribes. He documented their cultures, languages, and customs, recognizing the importance of preserving their heritage. His ethnographic studies formed a crucial foundation for future anthropological research in the United States.

Conservation Advocacy

John Wesley Powell was not only a scientist and explorer but also an early advocate for conservation. Recognizing the fragile nature of the American West’s ecosystems, he became a vocal proponent of sustainable land use practices and preservation efforts. Powell believed that the arid region’s limited water resources necessitated careful management and planning.

In 1879, Powell presented his influential “Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States” to Congress. This groundbreaking report emphasized the need for responsible irrigation and land development strategies, urging policymakers to consider the long-term consequences of uncontrolled resource exploitation. Powell’s report laid the groundwork for the eventual establishment of the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Reclamation, both crucial agencies in land and water management.

Legacy and Impact

John Wesley Powell’s contributions to exploration, science, and conservation continue to resonate today. His expeditions not only unveiled the wonders of the American West but also inspired future generations of explorers and scientists. Powell’s emphasis on interdisciplinary research and his understanding of the intricate relationships between humans and their environment remain

References

Subway Canyon – Left Fork of North Creek

Subway Slot Canyon is a unique geological formation located in the Zion National Park in southwestern Utah, USA. It is considered one of the most popular hiking trails in the park, known for its challenging terrain and breathtaking views. The canyon gets its name from its tubular shape, which resembles the underground trains or subway tunnels.

The Subway Slot Canyon located in Zion National Park, Utah.  Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Subway Slot Canyon located in Zion National Park, Utah. Photograph by James L Rathbun

History

The Subway Slot Canyon was formed millions of years ago by the erosion of Navajo Sandstone, a red-colored rock formation that is found in the southwestern United States. The slot canyon was created by the flow of water, which gradually wore away the sandstone, forming a narrow, winding passage through the rock. The canyon was first discovered by explorers in the 1930s, but it was not until the 1970s that it became a popular destination for hikers.

Geology

The Subway Slot Canyon is a part of the Zion Wilderness, which covers an area of approximately 124,406 acres. The canyon is about 9 miles long and ranges in width from 5 to 15 feet. The canyon walls are made up of Navajo Sandstone, which is known for its unique patterns and colors. The sandstone is layered, with different colors and textures, giving the canyon walls a unique and stunning appearance. The canyon also features a series of pools and waterfalls, which add to its beauty.

Flora and Fauna

The Subway Slot Canyon is home to a variety of flora and fauna. The area around the canyon is covered with sagebrush, juniper, and pinyon trees. The canyon itself is home to a variety of ferns, mosses, and other plant species. The canyon is also home to a variety of animals, including bighorn sheep, mule deer, and mountain lions. Hikers may also see a variety of birds, including hawks, eagles, and owls.

Hiking Experience

The Subway Slot Canyon is considered one of the most challenging hiking trails in the Zion National Park. The trail is rated as moderate to strenuous and requires a permit to hike. Hikers must be prepared for a difficult and sometimes dangerous hike, as the trail includes steep drops, narrow passageways, and deep pools of water. Hikers must also be prepared for changing weather conditions, as the canyon can be very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter.

The Subway Slot Canyon is a unique geological formation that offers hikers a challenging and rewarding experience. The canyon’s unique colors, textures, and shapes make it a must-see destination for anyone visiting the Zion National Park. However, hikers must be prepared for the challenges that come with hiking in the canyon, including difficult terrain and changing weather conditions. With proper preparation and precautions, hikers can safely explore the beauty of the Subway Slot Canyon and experience one of the most stunning geological formations in the world.

Temple of Sinawava

Located in Zion National Park in southwestern Utah, the Temple of Sinawava is a stunning geological formation that attracts visitors from all around the world. This natural temple is the result of millions of years of geological processes, and it has been a sacred site for the indigenous people of the area for centuries. In this travel and geological report, we will explore the history, geology, and attractions of the Temple of Sinawava, as well as provide practical information for visitors.

Temple of Sinawava, Zion National Park, Utah, Medium Format Photograph: James L Rathbun
Temple of Sinawava, Zion National Park, Utah, Medium Format Photograph: James L Rathbun

History

The Temple of Sinawava is named after the Paiute Indian god, Sinawava, who is believed to have lived in the area. For centuries, the Paiute and other indigenous peoples have considered the area to be sacred, and they have performed various rituals and ceremonies there. The Paiute called the area “Mukuntuweap,” which means “straight canyon,” and it was later renamed Zion National Park by the Mormons who settled in the area.

Geology

The Temple of Sinawava is located at the end of the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, and it is one of the most popular destinations in the park. The temple is a natural amphitheater that was formed by the Virgin River, which has been carving through the sandstone for millions of years. The river has eroded the sandstone in such a way that it has created a stunning array of geological features, including towering cliffs, deep canyons, and narrow slot canyons.

The Temple of Sinawava is a particularly unique geological formation because it is located at the end of Zion Canyon, where the canyon narrows dramatically. The canyon walls rise up to over 2,000 feet in height, and they are composed of various layers of sandstone that were deposited over millions of years. The layers of sandstone are different colors, ranging from red to white, and they provide a stunning contrast against the blue sky.

Attractions

The Temple of Sinawava offers visitors a variety of attractions, including hiking, wildlife viewing, and photography. The most popular activity at the temple is hiking the Riverside Walk, which is a 2.2-mile round-trip hike that follows the Virgin River to the entrance of the temple. Along the way, hikers will be treated to stunning views of the canyon walls, as well as a variety of wildlife, including bighorn sheep, mule deer, and numerous bird species.

Once visitors reach the entrance of the temple, they can continue hiking up the river, which leads to the beginning of the Narrows. The Narrows is a narrow slot canyon that is formed by the Virgin River, and it is one of the most popular hikes in Zion National Park. The Narrows can be hiked in two ways, either by hiking up the river or by hiking down the river. Hiking up the river requires a permit and special equipment, while hiking down the river is open to all visitors.

Another popular attraction at the Temple of Sinawava is photography. The temple is a popular destination for photographers, both amateur and professional, who come to capture the stunning beauty of the canyon walls and the river. The best time to photograph the temple is during the early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is low in the sky and the light is soft and warm.

Practical Information

The Temple of Sinawava is located in Zion National Park, which is open year-round. The park is located in southwestern Utah, and it can be accessed via State Route 9, which runs through the park. There are a variety of lodging options in the park, including campgrounds, lodges, and hotels, as well as numerous restaurants and gift shops.

Visitors to the Temple of Sinawava should come prepared with appropriate clothing and gear, as the weather can be unpredictable.