Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Swansea, Arizona – La Paz County Ghost Town
Swansea, Arizona, is a well-preserved ghost town in La Paz County in western Arizona, known for its copper mining history. It lies in a remote desert area, roughly 30 miles from Parker and accessible via challenging dirt roads. Today, it is managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) as a historic site featuring adobe and brick ruins, mine remnants, and foundations that illustrate early 20th-century mining life.
Early Prospecting and Development (1860s–1900s)
Prospecting in the Swansea area began around 1862, when three prospectors explored the region and found copper and silver deposits. However, the remote location, lack of reliable transportation, and high costs limited large-scale operations for decades. Early mining was sporadic, with some silver-lead activity in the late 19th century that tapered off by the 1880s as richer ore bodies were exhausted.
Major development required better infrastructure. In 1904, the Arizona and California Railroad began construction from Wickenburg to Parker, opening opportunities for shipping ore. Miners Newton Evans and Thomas Jefferson Carrigan, along with others, secured investment and developed the site. The claims were consolidated under the Clara Consolidated Gold and Copper Mining Company (sometimes referred to as Clara Gold and Copper).
The camp was initially called Signal. By the end of 1908, construction included a 350-ton capacity smelter (later expanded), a 3.5-mile water pipeline from the Bill Williams River, and hoists for multiple mine shafts. The town was renamed Swansea after the Welsh port city where ore had previously been shipped for smelting.
Boom Years (1909–1910s)
Swansea was officially established around 1909 (just before Arizona achieved statehood in 1912). A post office opened on March 25, 1909. By that year, the population reached about 500, supported by mining, smelting, and related services.
Key infrastructure included:
- The Arizona & Swansea Railroad (about 21 miles long), which connected to the main line at Bouse and began operations around 1910, enabling efficient ore transport.
- A larger smelter (reportedly up to 700 tons capacity in some accounts) built on-site to process copper locally rather than shipping raw ore overseas.
- Housing, stores, and other amenities in a classic company town setup.
The town reflected the optimism and speculation of the era. Investors promoted it aggressively, leading to substantial (sometimes excessive) infrastructure investment aimed at impressing backers rather than purely optimizing operations.
Decline and Abandonment (1910s–1940s)
The boom was short-lived. By 1911, the Clara Consolidated company faced financial troubles, leading to mine closures and restructuring. New owners restarted operations, but copper prices fluctuated. The town survived World War I but declined sharply afterward as prices dropped.
The post office closed on June 28, 1924. By the 1930s, the population had largely dispersed, and the mines shut down for good around 1937. Limited activity may have continued into the early 1940s before full abandonment. A few hardy prospectors lingered, but Swansea became a true ghost town.
Later History and Preservation
The site’s remoteness helped preserve its ruins better than many other ghost towns. It has been designated an Arizona archaeological site and is protected by the BLM. In the 1970s, it served as a filming location (e.g., for Day of the Wolves). Visitors today can explore remnants of buildings, mine shafts, and the smelter area, though caution is advised due to unstable structures and desert hazards.
Significance
Swansea exemplifies the rise-and-fall pattern of many Western mining towns: discovery, railroad-enabled boom, over-speculation, market volatility, and bust. Its copper focus tied it to broader industrial demands of the early 20th century. Unlike flashier gold or silver towns, Swansea’s story highlights the engineering challenges of desert mining, including water supply and transportation. It stands as one of Arizona’s more intact ghost towns, offering insights into frontier mining life, company towns, and the economic realities of resource extraction.
Visiting Notes: Access is via high-clearance vehicles recommended; check BLM resources for current conditions. It remains a popular but respectful destination for history enthusiasts and off-road adventurers.
Sasco, Arizona – Pinal County Ghost Town
Sasco, Arizona, is a ghost town in Pinal County, located west of Red Rock and approximately 35 miles northwest of Tucson. Its name is an acronym for the Southern Arizona Smelting Company. Founded in 1907 as a company town centered around a large smelter, it processed copper ore from nearby mines, primarily the Silver Bell Mine to the southwest.
Founding and Development
Sasco owes its creation to the Development Company of America (DCA), led by Frank Morrell Murphy (brother of Arizona Territorial Governor Oakes Murphy). Murphy envisioned consolidating mining operations in the Silver Bell Mountains into a large-scale enterprise, which was an innovative concept for the time when most mining was small-scale.
Key steps in its development included:
- In 1903–1904, Murphy and engineer William Field Staunton acquired and combined mines (such as the Union and Mammoth mines) into the Imperial Copper Company and the Silver Bell Mine.
- The Arizona Southern Railroad was built to connect the Silver Bell Mine to the Southern Pacific Railroad at Red Rock, facilitating transport of ore, supplies, water, and people.
- The Southern Arizona Smelting Company (Sasco) was formally organized on August 10, 1906. Construction of the smelter began in summer 1907 and was completed in February 1908.
The town was strategically placed roughly halfway between major mining areas and near the Santa Cruz River. At its peak, Sasco had a population of around 500–600 people. It featured a residential neighborhood, stores, saloons, a hotel (notably the Hotel Rockland), a jail (built of concrete), a power house that supplied electricity to the town, Silverbell, and the mine, and other amenities. The smelter employed about 175 men and processed significant amounts of ore—245,000 tons by 1910.
Operations and Challenges
Sasco functioned primarily as a smelting and milling town rather than a direct mining site. Ore arrived via rail from the Silver Bell Mine (about 12 miles southwest) and other areas, including near Picacho Peak. The smelter complex, power house, and related infrastructure were central to the community.
Despite early promise as one of the premier smelting towns in the Southwest, Sasco’s history was marked by instability:
- Financial difficulties for the DCA, including problems with other operations (e.g., in the Tombstone area), led to bankruptcy. The smelter closed around 1909–1911.
- In 1915, the American Smelting and Refining Company (ASARCO) acquired the Silver Bell Mine and briefly reopened the Sasco smelter, reviving the town temporarily.
Decline and Abandonment
The town faced a devastating blow during the winter of 1918–1919 when the Spanish Flu pandemic struck. It killed many residents, with numerous unmarked or plain concrete graves in the Sasco Cemetery attributed to the outbreak.
ASARCO closed the Silver Bell Mine and Sasco operations in 1921 to focus elsewhere. The post office, established on July 10, 1907, closed on September 15, 1919. In the early 1930s, amid falling copper prices, most buildings were demolished, and the railroad was removed. By around 1921 (or shortly after), Sasco was largely abandoned.
Today
Sasco is now a neglected ghost town site with visible ruins, including:
- Remnants of the smelter complex (a focal point, with graffiti and some remaining structures).
- Foundations of the stamp mill.
- The Hotel Rockland (made of volcanic stones).
- The concrete jail.
- Elevated railroad platforms.
- Other building foundations.
The Sasco Cemetery (northeast of the townsite, near the La Osa Ranch) is privately owned and generally closed to the public; many graves there are linked to the 1918–1919 flu. The site is accessible via dirt roads (high-clearance recommended, with potential Santa Cruz River crossing issues) from exits near Red Rock or Marana on I-10. It has seen use for recreational activities like paintball, leading to litter, shotgun shells, and graffiti.
Sasco stands out among Arizona ghost towns as a short-lived but ambitious smelting community rather than a typical mining camp. Its rapid rise and fall illustrate the boom-and-bust nature of early 20th-century Arizona mining, compounded by corporate finances, transportation dependencies, and public health crises. Ruins and historical accounts preserve its legacy as a footnote in the state’s copper industry history.
Epsom Salts Monorail
The Epsom Salts Monorail (also known as the Magnesium Monorail) was a short-lived but remarkable engineering experiment in the remote Mojave Desert of San Bernardino County, California.
It operated as a Lartigue-type monorail from 1924 to 1926, spanning approximately 28 miles (45 km) to transport epsomite (hydrated magnesium sulfate, commonly called Epsom salts) from a deposit in the Owlshead Mountains (near the Crystal Hills and southern edge of Death Valley) to a siding on the Trona Railway at Magnesia (about six miles south of Trona, near Searles Lake).
This was one of the few commercial monorails ever built in the United States and briefly gained fame as the “fastest monorail in the world” due to its downhill speeds. However, it proved economically unviable and was abandoned after just two years of operation.
Discovery and Early Development (1917–1922)
In 1917, prospectors discovered a deposit of magnesium salts in the multicolored badlands of the Crystal Hills, a rugged area of low ridges and ravines in northwestern San Bernardino County, roughly 28 miles east of Searles Lake and near the old Wingate Wash Borax Road. The site lay in desolate desert terrain between Wingate Valley, the Panamint Range, and areas visible from Death Valley—virtually uninhabited and far from infrastructure.
Los Angeles florist Thomas Wright acquired the mining claims in 1919. Initially, he and his team hauled supplies over punishing 40–63-mile dirt tracks from Randsburg (a journey plagued by broken springs, overheating engines, and rough terrain). Wright envisioned exploiting the epsomite for pharmaceutical and industrial uses but faced major transport challenges.
A plan to dissolve the salts and pump them via a 28-mile pipeline to the Trona Railway was abandoned due to insufficient water. Traditional narrow-gauge rail or road grading proved prohibitively expensive in the steep, rocky canyons and unstable lake beds. In 1921–1922, Wright formed the American Magnesium Company and opted for a monorail system—specifically an adaptation of the French Lartigue monorail design, which used a single elevated rail and balancing outriggers for stability in challenging terrain.
Construction began in late 1922 at Magnesia Siding on the Trona Railway. Douglas fir timber was shipped by sea to San Pedro, then railed to the site. A prototype was built, and a patent secured on June 23, 1923.
Engineering and Construction (1922–1924)
The monorail was a custom timber-and-steel adaptation of the Lartigue system. A central 4×6-inch or 6×8-inch wooden “riding beam” (supported by A-frame trestles spaced about 8 feet apart) carried a standard T-section steel rail (mostly 80 lb/yd, some lighter). The A-frames featured diagonal braces, horizontal crosspieces, and 2×6-inch side balancing boards or rails for stabilizing rollers. Bents were anchored to broad sills sunk into sand and gravel, with extra bracing over arroyos. The entire structure rose only a few feet off the ground in most places.
The route climbed dramatically: it crossed the dry bed of Searles Lake in long tangents, ascended through Layton Canyon in the Slate Range (gaining 1,800 feet over 5 miles at a 7% grade), crossed Layton Pass (summit ~3,501 ft / 1,067 m), descended into Panamint Valley (with one road overpass creating a roller-coaster effect), climbed steeply (10–12% grades) over Wingate Pass, and followed Wingate Wash and Crystal Hills Wash to the mine. Blasting was required in hard-rock sections.
Construction took two years and cost an estimated $200,000–$350,000 (sources vary on the exact figure). By September 1923, half the line was complete. The monorail opened in June 1924.
Operation and Brief Success (1924–1926)
Rolling stock consisted of steel-framed locomotives and carriages with double-flanged wheels riding the central rail and spring-suspended steel rollers (8 inches high and wide) on the side boards for balance. Loads hung low in saddlebag-like containers on either side, keeping the center of gravity stable (much like pack saddles on a mule). Couplings came from scrapped Los Angeles streetcars. Brakes were locomotive-only.
Initially battery-powered units proved underpowered; the company modified seven Fordson tractors and one heavier Buda tractor into articulated monorail locomotives (each handling 1–2 trailers, or up to 3,400 lb per loco and 8,500 lb per car). A small workforce (12–15 men at the mine) scraped high-grade epsomite from surface deposits using basic tools.
Trains operated at normal speeds of 8–15 mph uphill/flats but reached up to 35 mph (56 km/h) downhill. One engineer famously completed a fully loaded 28–30-mile run in about one hour, earning the line its “fastest monorail in the world” nickname (though he was reportedly fired for the reckless speed). Salt was sacked at the mine, railed to Magnesia Siding, then shipped by standard rail to a refining plant in Wilmington, California, for processing into Epsom salts, Glauber’s salt, and magnesium carbonate.
Challenges, Decline, and Closure
Despite the engineering novelty, the operation faced insurmountable problems. High-grade surface epsomite depleted quickly, leaving lower-quality ore contaminated with up to 50% sand, clay, and other salts. Wooden beams warped as they dried in the desert heat, causing misalignment. Cloudbursts and flash floods washed out sections (especially near Layton Pass and on Searles Lake bed, where up to 14 inches of water softened sediments). Landslides and uneven settling further damaged the track. Locomotives and brakes were inadequate for sustained heavy loads, and maintenance was costly.
Output fell far short of estimates. Intense competition from cheaper brine-based magnesium producers doomed the venture. The mine and monorail shut down in June 1926 (some accounts cite 1927), after transporting only modest tonnages over two years. The American Magnesium Company was liquidated with minimal recovery of investment.
Aftermath and Legacy (1930s–Present)
The monorail stood idle for about a decade. In the late 1930s, the steel rail and longitudinal timbers were salvaged and sold for scrap. Only scattered A-frames remained, many later used as firewood, removed, or scattered by floods; most have since disappeared.
Today, the largest surviving sections lie in restricted military areas of the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Center (Range B). The mine site itself is within Death Valley National Park and accessible via Fort Irwin National Training Center near Tecopa (with permits). Concrete foundations, salt piles, and house ruins persist at the old camp. A historical marker (erected 2008 by E Clampus Vitus and the Bureau of Land Management) stands near SR-178 and Pinnacle Road, about 16 miles east of Ridgecrest.
The Epsom Salts Monorail remains a classic example of desert mining ambition and engineering ingenuity in the face of harsh geography. It highlighted the limits of wooden infrastructure in extreme environments and the economic realities of remote mineral extraction. Though a commercial failure, its innovative design and brief “world’s fastest” reputation continue to fascinate historians of unusual railways.
For further reading, see Alexander K. Rogers’ book The Epsom Salts Monorail: The American Magnesium Company Monorail in San Bernardino County, California (Maturango Museum) and Richard H. Jahns’ 1951 article “Epsom Salts Line—Monorail to Nowhere” in Engineering and Science.
Unionville, Nevada – Pershing County
Unionville, Nevada, is a small unincorporated community and census-designated place (CDP) in Pershing County, located in Buena Vista Canyon on the eastern slope of the Humboldt Range. It sits south of Interstate 80, just west of State Route 400. As of the 2020 census, it had a population of 27.
It is often described as a living ghost town or semi-ghost town, with remnants of its mining past including old mill foundations, a historic cemetery, abandoned structures like a one-room schoolhouse and Mark Twain’s former cabin, and a few occupied homes.
Founding and Early History (1861)
Unionville originated during the early Nevada silver mining boom. In spring 1861, Paiute Indians brought silver ore samples from Buena Vista Canyon to Virginia City. Prospectors followed and confirmed rich deposits. The Unionville (or Buena Vista) mining district was organized shortly afterward, and the town was laid out in May 1861 in the upper part of the canyon.
Initially called Buena Vista (after the canyon) and then Dixie by Southern sympathizers, the name changed to Unionville around July 4, 1861 (or late 1861), as Northern and neutral factions gained dominance amid Civil War tensions. The town was divided into sections (e.g., Lower Town/Dixie for Southerners and Upper Town for Northerners), separated by “Centerville” as a sort of Mason-Dixon line.
In November 1861, Unionville became the county seat of the newly created Humboldt County, serving in that role until 1873.
Boom Years (1863–1870)
Unionville experienced its peak mining boom between 1863 and 1870. Exaggerated reports of riches drew prospectors, including Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), who arrived in late 1861/1862 intending to strike it rich but left disappointed after limited success. He described the early camp as “eleven cabins and a liberty-pole” in Roughing It.
At its height, the population reached 1,000–1,500. The town stretched over two miles along the canyon and featured over 200 houses, ten stores, nine saloons, six hotels, four livery stables, a brewery, and other businesses. Two newspapers served the area: the Humboldt Register and Silver State. An omnibus line ran hourly between sections of town. The Arizona Mine (discovered 1862) was a major producer, along with others like the Henning and Pfluger. Three stamp mills operated in the early 1870s to process lower-grade ores.
Silver was the primary commodity, with some gold. High-grade ore was sometimes shipped to Wales for processing. The town acted as a supply and distribution center.
Social Issues and Challenges
Like many Western mining towns, Unionville had tensions. In January 1869, an Anti-Chinese League forcibly expelled around 35–50 Chinese residents (miners and laborers), transporting them to Mill City on the railroad. This reflected widespread anti-Chinese sentiment in Nevada; federal indictments followed, but few convictions resulted. Some Chinese miners later returned to work claims in the area into the early 20th century.
Decline (1870s Onward)
By 1870, rich surface ores were largely depleted, and deeper mining proved less profitable. A major fire in 1872 caused significant damage. The completion of the Central Pacific Railroad through the Humboldt Valley (bypassing Unionville and favoring Winnemucca as a trade hub) accelerated the decline. In 1873, the Humboldt County seat moved to Winnemucca. By 1880, the population had dropped to around 200. Mining continued on a smaller scale into the 1880s, but Unionville never recovered its former prominence.
Pershing County was created in 1919 from part of Humboldt County (named after General John Pershing); Unionville fell within the new county but was too small to compete for the county seat (Lovelock became the seat). By 1920, only about 70 people remained.
Modern Unionville
Today, Unionville is a quiet hamlet with a small permanent population (around 20–27). It features scattered ruins, preserved sites like Twain’s cabin, a historic cemetery, and some modern structures. There is limited tourism, including a tourist inn, but no formal local government. It serves as a reminder of Nevada’s early mining history.
Unionville highlights the classic boom-and-bust cycle of Nevada mining towns, shaped by mineral wealth, Civil War politics, transportation changes, and shifting economic centers. Its brief but vibrant history contributed to the development of Humboldt and Pershing counties in the American West.
Nevada State Historic Marker 232
Nevada Historical Marker 232
Reunion in Unionville
SR 400 in in County Park
UnionvilleReunion in Unionville
Across the road and down about 300 feet was the original Unionville school. Built in 1862, this adobe building was the first public structure in the county. Used by such organizations as the Union League, Knights of the Golden Circle, the Masons and the Ancient and Honorable Order of E. Clampus Vitus, it served the community until its demolition in 1871.
Exactly 109 years later, members of the E.C.V. gathered here to hold a reunion in commemoration of this propitious event. To the rear of this marker are the remains of Mark Twain’s cabin. Also a member of E.C.V., he built this structure in 1861 and lived here before moving to Virginia City.
Humboldt City, Nevada – Pershing County Ghost Town
Humboldt City is a historic ghost town and former mining settlement in Pershing County, Nevada, located in Humboldt Canyon in the Humboldt Range, approximately 10 miles southwest of Mill City and about 2 miles southeast of Interstate 80. Its ruins sit at an elevation of around 5,312 feet. It is notable as one of Nevada’s earliest mining towns, often regarded as among the first ghost towns in the state, with origins tied to the initial silver discoveries in the region predating Nevada statehood.
Early Discovery and Founding (1860–1861)
In spring 1860, French trader Louis Barbeau discovered silver ore in Humboldt Canyon. This led to the organization of the Humboldt Mining District (also known as the Imlay or Eldorado District), the first mining district in what is now Pershing County. Prospectors, inspired by the ongoing Comstock Lode rush, flocked to the area. An initial settlement formed by the end of 1860, but it faced significant challenges: scarce supplies, high living costs, and hostilities with the Paiute people. Many left in early 1861.
A peace treaty (the first in the region) in mid-1861 eased tensions and sparked renewed interest. Over a thousand silver deposits were reportedly found in the surrounding canyons, with initial assays suggesting high values ($400–$2,700 per ton in some cases). The townsite of Humboldt City was platted in 1861. By August of that year, around 200 people had settled there.
Peak Years (1862–1863)
Humboldt City grew rapidly. A post office opened on April 18, 1862 (operating until November 30, 1869). By 1863, the population reached approximately 500, with around 200 buildings. Contemporary descriptions portrayed it as a picturesque village with well-built adobe, stone, and wood houses (some plastered inside and out), gardens, and a crystal-clear stream diverted through the streets for water.
Amenities included:
- Two hotels (Coulter House and Iowa House).
- Two saloons (one operated by Sylvester & Helmer, known for political arguments).
- Stores with substantial stocks (e.g., thousands of pounds of flour and groceries in 1862).
- A blacksmith shop.
- Families, livestock, and a lively community atmosphere.
The town served as a supply point and even became the terminus of a new wagon road from Red Bluff, California. It provided fresh produce to nearby camps like Star City. A physician’s 1863 letter highlighted reasonable (for the era) prices for board and goods, good climate, and optimistic mining prospects.
Decline (1864 Onward)
Despite optimism and discoveries in 1863, the mines proved shallow and quickly exhausted. Production slowed dramatically after 1864. Plans for infrastructure, such as a 61-mile ditch from the Humboldt River to create a waterfall for milling or even diverting the river, were surveyed but abandoned as viability declined.
New strikes elsewhere drew miners away, compounded by the silver panic of 1865. Humboldt City faded rapidly. A few residents lingered, but the post office closed in 1869, with service transferred to Imlay. By the late 19th century, it was largely abandoned and considered one of Nevada’s earliest ghost towns.
Limited later activity occurred in the broader Humboldt District (e.g., some gold and silver production into the 20th century at sites like the Imlay mine), but Humboldt City itself did not revive as a town.
Ruins and Legacy
Today, the site features extensive stone and adobe ruins scattered through the canyon, including a large former store (with surviving sidewalls and evidence of wallpaper), houses, possible mill remnants, shafts, and other structures. A small cemetery exists with few recorded burials. The location is on private or mixed land and is accessible via dirt roads off I-80, though visitors should exercise caution and respect private property.
Humboldt City’s brief boom exemplifies the rapid rise-and-fall pattern of many Nevada mining camps during the 1860s silver excitement. It predates the formation of Pershing County (carved from Humboldt County in 1919 and named for General John J. Pershing) and highlights early Euro-American settlement in the Humboldt River region, which had long been a corridor for emigrants on the California Trail.
The site was documented in the 1930s and holds historical significance, with ruins that continue to attract ghost town enthusiasts for their scenic setting and relatively well-preserved early-Nevada architecture.