Category: Destination4x4

West Valley Jeep Road

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Arches National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Arches National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

West Valley Jeep Road, also known as West Valley 4×4 Road, offers a rugged and scenic off-road adventure in the northwestern backcountry of Arches National Park, connecting the Tower Arch 4×4 Road to Willow Springs Road. Spanning approximately 9.4 miles, this moderate trail is designed for high-clearance 4WD vehicles and experienced mountain bikers, with hiking possible but less common due to the trail’s length and exposure. The route traverses a stark desert landscape of sandy washes, sand dunes, and occasional rocky outcrops, offering sweeping views of sandstone fins, distant La Sal Mountains, and lesser-visited formations like the Eye of the Whale Arch. The trail is recommended for travel from north to south due to steep, sandy hills that are challenging to climb in the opposite direction. With an elevation change of about 45 feet (593 feet of climb and 638 feet of descent), the trail takes approximately 35-45 minutes by vehicle or 2-3 hours by bike, with hiking times varying based on pace.

The trail begins at the junction with Tower Arch 4×4 Road (accessible via Salt Valley Road from the park’s main entrance) and ends at Willow Springs Road, near its intersection with Highway 191 or further south at Balanced Rock. Key features include the Eye of the Whale Arch, accessible via a short detour, and the solitude of the park’s less-traveled backcountry. The trail’s technical sections, including deep sand and small rock ledges, require careful navigation, and conditions vary with weather, so checking with the Arches Visitor Center for road status is advised. Spring and fall are ideal seasons, as summer temperatures often exceed 100°F, and winter may bring snow or mud.

Trail Details

  • Length: 9.4 miles one-way.
  • Difficulty: Moderate for 4WD vehicles and mountain bikes; strenuous for hikers due to distance, exposure, and uneven terrain.
  • Elevation Change: 593 feet climb, 638 feet descent; altitude ranges from 4,775 to 5,083 feet.
  • Terrain: Sandy washes, sand dunes, rocky sections, and slickrock. High-clearance 4WD required; OHVs, ATVs, and UTVs are prohibited in the park.
  • Access: Start at the junction with Tower Arch 4×4 Road (38.701410, -109.580280) or access via Willow Springs Road from Highway 191. An Arches National Park entry fee ($30 per vehicle) is required, payable at the main entrance or online at recreation.gov. Timed entry reservations are required April 1–October 31, 2025, from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.
  • Features: Access to Eye of the Whale Arch, views of sandstone formations, and a quiet backcountry experience. No dinosaur tracks are noted on this specific route, unlike Willow Springs Road.
  • Challenges: Steep sandy hills, deep sand, and rocky sections require technical driving or biking skills. No shade, limited cell coverage, and potential flash flooding in washes after rain. Pets are not allowed off roads, and motorcycles must be street-legal.
  • Amenities: No facilities on the trail. The closest are at the Willow Springs Road trailhead (porta-potties in UtahRaptor State Park) or Balanced Rock (picnic table, outhouses). Bring ample water and a detailed map (e.g., Trails Illustrated Moab North).

Trail Map

Hiking and Biking Notes

Hiking West Valley Jeep Road is uncommon due to its 9.4-mile length, lack of shade, and monotonous gravelly stretches, as noted by some trail users who found it dull for walking. For hikers, the trail is a long, exposed journey best suited for cooler months (March–May or September–November). The route follows the road, with firm footing on sand and slickrock but no dedicated path. Mountain bikers find the trail more rewarding, navigating sandy washes and rocky sections, though deep sand may require dismounting. Bikers should yield to vehicles and stay on designated roads to protect the fragile desert ecosystem, including cryptobiotic soil. A detour to the Eye of the Whale Arch, about 1.7 miles from the Tower Arch Road junction, adds a scenic highlight. Both hikers and bikers should carry ample water, sunscreen, and GPS navigation, as trail markers are minimal, and the route can be disorienting.

History and Significance

West Valley Jeep Road, like other backcountry routes in Arches National Park, has historical roots in the region’s early exploration and land use. While specific historical records for this road are sparse, its significance lies in its role as part of the park’s limited network of 4WD trails, offering access to remote areas rarely seen by casual visitors. The road traverses terrain shaped by geologic processes dating back 300 million years, when the Paradox Formation’s salt bed was deposited, later influencing the uplift and erosion that created the park’s iconic arches and fins. The Entrada Sandstone, visible along the trail, formed 165 million years ago from ancient dune fields, and the road’s path through sandy washes and slickrock reflects this geologic legacy.

Historically, the broader Moab region, including areas near West Valley Jeep Road, was inhabited by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan peoples until about 700 years ago, with evidence of their presence in nearby rock art and petroglyphs along routes like Potash Road. Spanish missionaries encountered Ute and Paiute tribes in 1775, and Mormon settlers attempted to establish the Elk Mountain Mission in 1855, abandoning it due to harsh conditions. Willow Springs Road, which West Valley Jeep Road connects to, was used by ranchers and early explorers, and its proximity to Native American migration routes adds cultural significance. The road’s integration into Arches National Park, established as a national monument in 1929 and a national park in 1971, reflects its role in providing access to the park’s geologic wonders, such as the Eye of the Whale Arch.

Today, West Valley Jeep Road is valued for its solitude and adventure, appealing to off-road enthusiasts and cyclists seeking to explore the park’s backcountry. Its designation as a National Park Service-managed route emphasizes responsible use to preserve the delicate desert ecosystem, with regulations prohibiting off-road travel and protecting features like cryptobiotic soil. The road’s connection to UtahRaptor State Park (formerly BLM land) and its proximity to dinosaur track sites on Willow Springs Road further enhance its significance as a gateway to the region’s paleontological and cultural heritage.

Mary Edith Fly

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Mary Edith “Mollie” Fly (c. 1847–1925) was a pioneering American photographer who, with her husband Camillus “Buck” Fly, documented life in Tombstone, Arizona, during its 1880s silver-mining boom. Born in the U.S. and raised in San Francisco, she married Buck in 1879 and moved to Tombstone, where they established Fly’s Photography Gallery. Mollie managed the studio and boarding house, taking portraits of residents while Buck captured historic images, including Geronimo’s 1886 surrender. Despite personal challenges, including Buck’s alcoholism and their separations, Mollie ran the studio solo after his 1901 death until 1912. She donated their negatives to the Smithsonian and retired to Los Angeles. Inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame in 1989, Mollie’s work preserved a vivid record of Tombstone’s frontier era.

Mary ("Mollie") Goodrich Fly was a photographer who married photographer C.S. Fly in San Francisco. They arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory in December 1879 where they established a photography business and boarding house.
Mary (“Mollie”) Goodrich Fly was a photographer who married photographer C.S. Fly in San Francisco. They arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory in December 1879 where they established a photography business and boarding house.

Early Life and Background

Mary Edith McKie, known as Mollie Fly, was born around 1847, likely in the United States, though details of her early life remain scarce. In the late 1850s, her family relocated to San Francisco, California, where she spent her formative years. Little is documented about her education or how she acquired her photographic skills, a rarity for women in the mid-19th century. Mollie married twice; her first marriage to Samuel D. Goodrich ended in divorce after two years. In 1879, she married Camillus Sidney “Buck” Fly, a photographer, in San Francisco, marking the beginning of their shared professional and personal journey. The couple later adopted a daughter, Kitty Fly.

Arrival in Tombstone and Establishment of Fly’s Photography Gallery

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona

In December 1879, Mollie and Buck arrived in Tombstone, Arizona Territory, during its silver-mining boom, when the town was rapidly growing into one of the American frontier’s last boomtowns. They initially set up a temporary photography studio in a tent, capitalizing on the influx of miners, merchants, and adventurers. By July 1880, they had constructed a 12-room boarding house at 312 Fremont Street, which included their permanent studio, known as Fly’s Photography Gallery, at the back. Mollie played a pivotal role in managing both the boarding house and the studio, especially when Buck was away on photographic expeditions. As one of the few female photographers of the era, she took studio portraits for 35 cents each, capturing the diverse faces of Tombstone’s residents, from miners to merchants.

Role in Recording Tombstone’s Events

Mollie’s contributions to documenting Tombstone’s history were significant, though often overshadowed by her husband’s more publicized work. The Flys’ studio was strategically located near the site of the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881, one of the most iconic events in Old West history. Buck was an eyewitness to the shootout, which occurred just outside their studio, and reportedly disarmed a dying Billy Clanton while armed with a Henry rifle. Curiously, no photographs of the gunfight’s aftermath were taken, possibly due to threats from the Earp faction, though Mollie and Buck’s studio captured portraits of many key figures in Tombstone, including founder Ed Schieffelin and surgeon Dr. George E. Goodfellow.

While Buck gained recognition for his photojournalistic work, including the only known images of Geronimo’s surrender in 1886, Mollie ensured the studio’s continuity. She managed operations during Buck’s absences, producing photographic postcards, such as one captioned “Arizona Prospectors, Tombstone,” which offered rare glimpses into the town’s daily life. Her work, though less credited, helped preserve the visual record of a bustling frontier town marked by saloons, stagecoach robberies, and mining ventures.

Challenges and Resilience

The Flys’ personal and professional lives were fraught with challenges. Buck’s heavy drinking led to their temporary separation in 1887, and by the late 1880s, Tombstone’s economy declined as silver prices fell and mines flooded. In 1893, the couple attempted to open a new studio in Phoenix, but the venture failed, prompting their return to Tombstone a year later. They separated again in the late 1890s, with Buck establishing a studio in Bisbee, Arizona, where a fire at the Phelps Dodge Mercantile Company warehouse destroyed many of their glass-plate negatives. After Buck’s death in Bisbee in 1901, Mollie ran the Tombstone studio solo for another decade, demonstrating remarkable resilience. In 1905, she published a collection of Buck’s photographs, Scenes in Geronimo’s Camp: The Apache Outlaw and Murderer, preserving his historic images of Geronimo’s surrender.

Later Life and Legacy

In 1912, Mollie retired after a second fire destroyed her studio in Tombstone in 1915. Recognizing the historical value of their work, she donated the surviving negatives to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. She then moved to Los Angeles, California, where she lived until her death in 1925. Mollie’s contributions as a pioneering female photographer were posthumously honored in 1989 when she was inducted into the Arizona Women’s Hall of Fame.

C. S. Fly's Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary "Mollie" Fly
C. S. Fly’s Photography Gallery, Tombstone, Arizona on fire 1912, Photograph by Mary “Mollie” Fly

Mollie Fly’s role in recording Tombstone’s events was integral to preserving the town’s legacy as “The Town Too Tough to Die.” Through her management of Fly’s Photography Gallery and her own photographic work, she captured the essence of a volatile frontier era, contributing to one of the most comprehensive pictorial records of early Tombstone. Her perseverance as a woman in a male-dominated field and her dedication to her craft ensure her place as a significant figure in Arizona’s history.

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Potash Road

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Potash Road, also known as Utah Scenic Byway 279 or the Lower Colorado River Scenic Byway, is a striking route that stretches approximately 17 miles along the Colorado River west of Moab, Utah, before transitioning into a dirt road that connects to the Shafer Trail in Canyonlands National Park. This road, running parallel to dramatic red rock cliffs and offering access to petroglyphs, arches, and dinosaur tracks, has a rich history tied to Native American use, industrial development, and modern recreation. Its proximity to the Shafer Trail makes it a critical segment of one of the most iconic backcountry driving routes in the American Southwest.

The deep blue potash evaporation pools capture from Google Earth
The deep blue potash evaporation pools capture from Google Earth

Native American and Early Use

Potash Road’s origins trace back to Native American pathways that followed the Colorado River through the deepening Wingate sandstone canyon. Indigenous peoples used these routes to access resources, hunt, and travel between seasonal locations. The corridor’s natural features, including the river and nearby cliffs, made it a vital passage for early inhabitants. Evidence of their presence persists in the form of petroglyphs, such as those visible along the road near the “Indian Writing” pullout, approximately 5 miles from Moab, where rock art panels adorn the cliffside.

Ranching and Early Development

In the early 20th century, the route that would become Potash Road was used by Mormon pioneer settlers and ranchers. While the nearby Shafer Trail was specifically improved by John “Sog” Shafer in 1917 to move cattle between summer pastures on the mesa top and winter grounds in the canyon, Potash Road served as a complementary route along the Colorado River, facilitating access to grazing areas and water sources. The road remained a rudimentary track during this period, suitable for livestock and limited vehicular traffic, with its path constrained by the river and towering sandstone cliffs.

Industrial Era and the Potash Mining Boom

The mid-20th century marked a significant transformation for Potash Road with the rise of potash mining in the Moab area. The road’s modern name derives from the Moab Salt Company (now Intrepid Potash, Inc.), located at the end of the paved section, approximately 17 miles from U.S. Highway 191. Established in the early 1960s, the potash mining operation extracted potassium chloride from deep underground deposits, using water from the Colorado River to dissolve the mineral, which was then pumped to vibrant blue evaporation ponds visible along the road. These man-made, rubber-lined ponds, dyed blue to speed evaporation, became a striking feature of the landscape, visible even from space.

To support the mining industry, the Atomic Energy Commission and mining companies improved Potash Road in the 1950s and early 1960s, paving the initial 15–17 miles from U.S. 191 to the potash plant. Beyond this point, the road transitions to a dirt track, historically used to transport uranium ore from mines in the Triassic Chinle Formation to processing facilities in Moab. This dirt section, which connects to the Shafer Trail, was widened and stabilized to accommodate heavy trucks, following the path of a natural rockfall that buried parts of the cliff-forming Wingate Sandstone. The construction of a single-track railway in 1964, paralleling the final six miles of the paved road and extending through Bootlegger Canyon to Moab, further supported the transport of potash and salt, reducing reliance on the road for industrial haulage.

Transition to a Scenic and Recreational Route

With the establishment of Canyonlands National Park in 1964, the region’s focus shifted from industrial activity to preservation and recreation. The dirt section of Potash Road, extending from the potash plant to the Shafer Trail, became integrated into the park’s backcountry road network. The National Park Service maintained the route for recreational use, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles due to its rugged terrain, including ruts, sand, and slickrock sections. The road’s connection to the Shafer Trail, which ascends 1,500 feet through dramatic switchbacks to the Island in the Sky district, made it a popular route for adventurers seeking to experience Canyonlands’ rugged beauty.

Potash Road’s paved section, designated as Utah Scenic Byway 279, became a draw for its accessibility and scenic attractions. Notable sites include “Wall Street,” a cliffside area popular with rock climbers, and the trailheads for Corona Arch and Jug Handle Arch, both located along the road. The Corona Arch trail, approximately 1.2 miles each way, leads to a 140-foot-wide arch, while Jug Handle Arch is visible from the road, offering easy access for photographers. Dinosaur footprints, reachable by a short scramble near the Poison Spider Trail, and petroglyphs along the river add historical and cultural depth to the drive. The road also passes by the Gooseneck Overlook, a remote viewpoint showcasing the Colorado River’s meanders, and Thelma and Louise Point, famous for its role in the 1991 film’s final scene, often mistaken for the Grand Canyon.

Modern-Day Significance

Today, Potash Road is a multifaceted route, blending paved accessibility with rugged backcountry adventure. The paved section is suitable for most vehicles, offering a scenic drive along the Colorado River with opportunities to stop at campsites, petroglyphs, and trailheads. The dirt section, connecting to the Shafer Trail, requires a high-clearance 4WD vehicle and is part of a 19-mile off-road route that enters Canyonlands National Park, where a fee is required. The road is prone to closure during wet or snowy conditions, as it becomes slippery and impassable, necessitating careful planning and checks with the National Park Service for current conditions.

The road’s recreational popularity has grown, attracting drivers, cyclists, and hikers. It is part of a larger loop from Moab to Canyonlands via Potash Road and the Shafer Trail, returning via U.S. 191 and SR-313, totaling approximately 66 miles. The route is celebrated for its stunning views of red rock formations, the Colorado River, and the dramatic Shafer switchbacks, though the narrow, steep sections demand caution, especially for those wary of heights. The road’s historical significance, from Native American trails to industrial transport and modern tourism, makes it a compelling journey through time and terrain.

Conclusion

Potash Road, from its origins as a Native American pathway to its role in the potash and uranium industries, has evolved into one of Utah’s most scenic and adventurous routes. Its paved section offers accessible beauty, while its dirt extension into the Shafer Trail provides a thrilling backcountry experience within Canyonlands National Park. With cultural landmarks like petroglyphs and natural wonders like Corona Arch, Potash Road remains a vital link in the region’s history and a must-visit for those exploring the Moab area’s rugged landscapes.

The Disappearance of Glen and Bessie Hyde

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In the autumn of 1928, newlyweds Glen and Bessie Hyde embarked on an ambitious honeymoon adventure, aiming to navigate the treacherous rapids of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Their goal was twofold: to set a speed record for the journey and to make Bessie the first documented woman to complete the perilous trip. Yet, the couple vanished without a trace, leaving behind a mystery that has captivated historians, adventurers, and storytellers for nearly a century.

Hyde Honeymoon Scow as found by searchers, Near Diamond Creek. 1928. Photo by NPS
Hyde Honeymoon Scow as found by searchers, Near Diamond Creek. 1928. Photo by NPS

The Adventurous Newlyweds

Glen Rollin Hyde, born December 9, 1898, was a farmer from Twin Falls, Idaho, with a passion for river running. He had experience navigating the Salmon and Snake Rivers in Idaho alongside an experienced river runner, “Cap” Guleke, in 1926, and had undertaken a six-month canoe trip through British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest in 1919. Bessie Louise Haley, born December 29, 1905, in Parkersburg, West Virginia, was a bohemian artist and divorcee with a flair for theater and poetry. The couple met in 1927 aboard a passenger ship bound for Los Angeles and married on April 10, 1928, just one day after Bessie’s divorce from her first husband was finalized.

Inspired by the era’s fascination with daring feats—think Charles Lindbergh’s transatlantic flight or George Mallory’s Everest expedition—the Hydes saw their journey as a path to fame and fortune. Glen crafted a 20-foot wooden sweep scow, named “Rain-in-the-Face,” a flat-bottomed vessel designed for river travel but ill-suited for the Grand Canyon’s violent rapids. Bessie, despite her lack of river-running experience, embraced the adventure, hoping to cement her place in history.

The Journey Begins

On October 20, 1928, the Hydes launched their scow from Green River, Utah, embarking on a journey down the Green and Colorado Rivers toward Needles, California. The couple planned to complete the trip in record time, with Bessie documenting their progress in a journal and with a camera. Their early journey was largely successful, navigating major rapids through Labyrinth, Stillwater, and Cataract Canyons without significant incident, though Glen had once fallen out of the boat, underscoring the river’s dangers.

By mid-November, the Hydes had reached the Grand Canyon, roughly halfway through their journey. On November 15, they hiked the Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim to restock supplies at Grand Canyon Village. There, they visited the studio of famed photographer Emery Kolb, a veteran river runner who had navigated the Colorado twice. Kolb noted Bessie’s apparent exhaustion and apprehension, recalling her comment to his young daughter about her dress: “I wonder if I shall ever wear pretty shoes again.” Kolb offered the couple life jackets and even a place to stay for the winter, but Glen, determined to maintain their schedule, declined both.

The Hydes were last seen on November 18, 1928, as they departed from Hermit Rapid, accompanied briefly by Adolph G. Sutro, a photographer who rode with them for a day before hiking out at Hermit Creek. Sutro may have been the last person to see them alive.

The Disappearance

The Hydes were expected to arrive in Needles by December 6, 1928, but they never appeared. Alarmed, Glen’s father, Rollin Hyde, initiated a search before the couple was officially overdue. On December 19, a search plane spotted their scow near river mile 237, upright and intact, with supplies securely strapped in. Emery Kolb and his brother Ellsworth joined the search, recovering the boat, which contained Bessie’s journal, a camera, and other belongings. The journal’s final entry, dated November 30, indicated the couple had reached Diamond Creek, near river mile 226, and had cleared the 231 Mile Rapid. A photograph from the camera, likely taken around November 27 near river mile 165, provided the last visual evidence of their journey.

Despite extensive searches, no trace of Glen or Bessie was found. The pristine condition of the boat, with no signs of capsizing or damage, deepened the mystery. Historian Otis R. Marston, a noted Colorado River expert, suggested the couple likely perished in the heavy rapids near mile 232, where submerged granite rocks had damaged or capsized numerous boats. Yet, the absence of bodies or wreckage left room for speculation.

Theories and Legends

The Hydes’ disappearance sparked a flurry of theories, fueled by the romantic allure of their honeymoon adventure and the lack of conclusive evidence. The most straightforward explanation, supported by Marston and others, is that the couple drowned after their scow hit treacherous rapids, their bodies swept away by the river’s currents. The absence of life jackets and the unwieldy nature of their homemade scow lend credence to this theory.

However, alternative narratives have persisted. Some speculated that Bessie, weary of the journey and possibly facing an abusive husband, killed Glen and escaped the canyon. This theory gained traction in 1971 when an elderly woman on a commercial rafting trip claimed to be Bessie, alleging she had stabbed Glen during a quarrel and hiked out to start a new life. She later recanted, admitting the story was fabricated, but the tale lingered.

Another theory linked Bessie to Georgie Clark, a famed river runner who died in 1992. After Clark’s death, friends found a copy of the Hydes’ marriage certificate and a pistol among her possessions, and her birth name was revealed to be Bessie DeRoss. However, Clark’s well-documented life, including her marriage and childbirth in 1928, disproves this connection.

In 1976, skeletal remains with a bullet hole in the skull were discovered on Emery Kolb’s property, raising suspicions of foul play. Some theorized Kolb, who had interacted with the Hydes, might have been involved. Forensic analysis later determined the remains belonged to a younger man who likely died in the 1970s, ruling out a connection to Glen.

A Lasting Mystery

The disappearance of Glen and Bessie Hyde remains one of the Grand Canyon’s most enduring enigmas. Their story has inspired books, such as Brad Dimock’s Sunk Without a Sound, a novel by Lisa Michaels, and episodes of Unsolved Mysteries and various podcasts. The couple’s ambition, the haunting remark about “pretty shoes,” and the pristine state of their abandoned scow continue to captivate imaginations.

Whether they succumbed to the river’s fury, met with foul play, or orchestrated an escape, the fate of Glen and Bessie Hyde remains unknown. Their tale is a poignant reminder of the Grand Canyon’s beauty and danger, a place where nature can swallow even the boldest adventurers without a trace. As river runners recount their story around campfires, the Hydes’ legacy endures as a haunting chapter in the annals of American exploration.

Lees Ferry Colorado River Crossing

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Lees Ferry, a remote site along the Colorado River in northern Arizona, holds a pivotal place in American history as a vital crossing point, a gateway to exploration, and a launchpad for modern river running. Situated at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, just downstream from Glen Canyon and upstream from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry has served as a geographic and cultural hinge for centuries, bridging Native American trails, Mormon settlement, and modern adventure.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Early History and Native American Presence

Long before European settlers arrived, the area around Lees Ferry was a crossing point for Native American tribes, including the Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo, and Paiute. The site’s relatively calm waters and accessible riverbanks made it a natural ford for foot traffic and trade routes across the rugged Colorado Plateau. Archaeological evidence suggests human activity in the region dating back thousands of years, with petroglyphs and artifacts attesting to its significance.

The Colorado River, however, was a formidable barrier, with its steep canyons and turbulent rapids. Lees Ferry stood out as one of the few locations where the river could be crossed safely, earning it a place in the region’s cultural and economic landscape.

John D. Lee and the Mormon Era

John D Lee
John D Lee

Lees Ferry derives its name from John Doyle Lee, a prominent and controversial figure in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church). Born in 1812, Lee was a devout Mormon pioneer who played a significant role in the church’s westward expansion. In 1871, following his excommunication for his involvement in the 1857 Mountain Meadows Massacre, Lee was sent by church leader Brigham Young to establish a ferry service at the site to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona.

Lee arrived with two of his wives, Emma and Ann, and several children, building a homestead known as Lonely Dell near the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers. In 1872, he constructed a rudimentary ferry—a flatboat guided by ropes—capable of carrying wagons, livestock, and people across the river. The ferry became a critical link on the “Honeymoon Trail,” a route used by Mormon couples traveling from Arizona settlements to the temple in St. George, Utah, for marriage ceremonies. Lee operated the ferry until his arrest in 1874 for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was executed in 1877, but his wife Emma continued running the ferry until 1879.

The ferry operation passed through several hands, including the LDS Church and private operators, until 1928, when it was rendered obsolete by the completion of the Navajo Bridge, located a few miles downstream. The bridge, opened in 1929, provided a more reliable crossing, marking the end of the ferry’s practical necessity.

Exploration and Scientific Significance

Lees Ferry’s strategic location made it a key staging point for early exploration of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist, launched his historic expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers from Green River, Wyoming, passing through Lees Ferry en route to the Grand Canyon. Powell’s 1871–1872 expedition again used the site as a critical resupply point, cementing its role in the mapping and scientific study of the American Southwest.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

The U.S. Geological Survey later designated Lees Ferry as the official division point between the Upper and Lower Colorado River Basins, a demarcation still used in water management today. The site’s consistent flow and accessibility made it ideal for gauging stations, which have monitored the river’s flow since the early 20th century, providing critical data for dam construction and water allocation in the arid West.

The Rise of River Running

In the 20th century, Lees Ferry transformed into the primary launch point for recreational and commercial river trips through the Grand Canyon. Its gentle waters and proximity to Marble Canyon make it an ideal starting point for navigating the Grand Canyon’s rapids. The site gained fame in the 1920s during the ill-fated honeymoon journey of Glen and Bessie Hyde, who launched their homemade scow from Lees Ferry in 1928, only to vanish downstream, leaving behind one of the canyon’s enduring mysteries.

By the mid-20th century, river running grew in popularity, spurred by figures like Norman Nevills, who pioneered commercial rafting trips, and Georgie Clark, who became a legendary river guide. Today, Lees Ferry is the starting point for thousands of annual river trips, ranging from half-day floats to multi-week expeditions through the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service tightly regulates these trips, with permits highly sought after due to the area’s scenic beauty and challenging rapids.

Lees Ferry Today

Now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is a designated historic site, with remnants of its past preserved for visitors. Lonely Dell, the original homestead, includes restored buildings, an orchard, and a small cemetery, offering a glimpse into the harsh life of early settlers. The ferry site itself features a boat launch, camping facilities, and interpretive displays about its history.

Lees Ferry also attracts anglers, drawn to its world-class trout fishery below Glen Canyon Dam, established after the dam’s completion in 1963 altered the river’s ecology. The clear, cold waters released from the dam create ideal conditions for rainbow trout, making the stretch between the dam and Lees Ferry a popular destination.

A Legacy of Connection

Lees Ferry’s significance lies in its role as a crossroads—geographic, cultural, and historical. From Native American trails to Mormon pioneers, from Powell’s daring expeditions to modern adventurers, the site has witnessed the unfolding of the American West. Its tranquil setting belies the challenges faced by those who crossed its waters or braved the canyons beyond. Today, as river runners launch from its shores and historians reflect on its past, Lees Ferry remains a testament to human resilience and the enduring allure of the Colorado River.