Government Holes

The tale of the the Old Mojave Road is the story of water, the more important resource in the desert.  Along the Old Mojave Road trail is the Government Holes water stop.  Long abandoned, the site still contains a wind mill, a corral and a few watering holes.  This quiet remote location was even the site of a gunfight.

Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.
Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.

The story of the American West is the story ongoing and continued conflicts between the Native Americans and settlers and this holds was also true for the Mojave desert.  In 1858 the Mohave tribe attack various wagon trains, which prompted a military response from the U.S. Government. Major William Hoffman and over 600 men were dispatched to the Colorado River which is the  homeland of the Mohave  Tribe.  Major Hoffman demand the Mohave surrender to which the tribe relented.  Major Hoffman next established a post on the eastern bank of the Colorado River which developed into Fort Mojave.  To support this new fort, regular supply wagon trains from Los Angeles were required to travel east through the Mojave Desert until the Civil War.  Improvements to the wagon trail included a water stop which became known as Government Holes.

By the 1870s, steamboats on the Colorado supplied Fort Mojave and the Mojave Road became a highway for miners, prospectors, and ranchers.  In 1883 the Southern Pacific / Atlantic & Pacific Railroad took up the majority of traffic.  Throughout the 1800’s the Mojave was an open range, and cattle and livestock grazing was a source of money and food.  As with many human endeavors, smaller operations consolidate into larger companies.  These companies worked to claim ownership of land and most importantly water rights.

Homesteaders were in conflict with the Cattle Companies, when the homesteaders stake claims on the best grazing territory.  Homesteaders crops were trampled by the cattle, and the cattle companies denied the homesteaders access to water.  The homesteaders responded by taking their portion of beef from the herd.  All of this game to a head when a gun fight broke out between Matt Burts and J. W. “Bill” Robinson on November 8th, 1925.  Both men died in the fight, and may be one of the last of the “old west” gunfights and the plot of a lot of Hollywood movies.

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Travelers Monument

When travelling the Old Mojave Road, there is a tradition to pick and carry a rock, and carry the rock to the Travelers Monument.  The monument is located about half way along the Old Mojave Road, just south of the town of Baker in the dry soda lake.

The Travelers Monument located on the dry soda lake found on the Old Mojave Road
The Travelers Monument located on the dry soda lake found on the Old Mojave Road

Prior to our trip, my son took great time choosing the rock that we would contribute to the monument.  There were at least three re-picks for him to find the perfect stone.   Throughout our travels on that day, he took great delight in watching the stone which was on the floor below his feet.  It was a long day of waiting for him.

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Spreading Phlox ( Phlox diffusa )

Spreading Phlox ( Phlox diffusa ) is a perennial shrub with small needle like leaves.  This is a small white flowering plant prefers alpine, sub-alpine environments and rocky or sandy soil.  This is a low growing plant which is commonly only two to eight inches tall which probably offers survival advantages when confronted with the harsh landscapes of sub-alpine and alpine environments, in which it thrives.

Photographed in the White Moundtains, Phlox diffusa is a small white flowering plant which prefers alpine and sub-alpine environments.
Photographed in the White Moundtains in California Phlox diffusa is a small white flowering plant which prefers alpine and sub-alpine environments. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Spreading Phlox is commonly found and adapted high in the mountains and distributed throughout in the western United States and Canada. This plant employs a tap route, which is ideally suited to capture water deeper under ground and also offers an anchor to help the plant cling to the mountain in high wind conditions. The plant is short, and when in full bloom, the flowers may completely obscure the green needle like leaves from view.

The five petaled flowers range in color from a clean, magnificent white to calming understated lavender or pink color.  

The blooms are typically visible from May to August and a welcome sight to those who hike at elevation.

Desert Marigolds (Baileya multiradiata)

Desert Marigolds located off the Old Mojave Road.
Desert Marigolds photographed near the Old Mojave Road.

Desert Marigolds (Baileya multiradiata) are an abundant and well distributed flower across the desert south west. The name Marigolds are derived from the name “Mary’s Gold” which is to honor Mary, the Virgin Mary, the mother of Jesus.  

As with all members of the Asteraceae family, the Desert Marigold is characterize with individual florets which are arranged so that each flower groups appears to be a single flower. The bright yellow flowers of this annual growing plant will first appear in bloom in early March. The planet may bloom several more times upon subsequent rains brought in my the desert monsoons and thunderstorms.  

It is not uncommon to view the Desert Marigold display until November depending upon the conditions.  A wildly distributed flower, the Desert marigold can be found growing in sandy or gravelly soils. It is quote common to fine them along roadsides, washes, and plains. The elevations they may be found at range from 100 to 6500 feet above sea level and may be found from California, Arizona and Nevada to Texas.

The Desert Marigold can typically survive about two years and it can be poisonous to livestock.

This yellow wild flower is also known as:

  • Desert Marigold
  • Showy Desert Marigold
  • Paper Daisy
  • Desert Baileya

Bert Smith’s Cabin

Bert Smith's Cabin overlooks Camp Rock Springs
Bert Smith’s Cabin overlooks Camp Rock Springs

Located deep in the Mojave National Reserve exists a small stone building, known as Bert Smith’s Cabin, which serves as an ongoing monument to a national hero.  Bert Smith was a World War One veteran who moved to the Mojave in order to prolong his live and recover from the poison gas attacks which damaged his lungs during the war.  The original structure was built from wood, and later finished in stone.  Bert Smith lived at the site despite his prognosis, until the 1950’s.

Bert Smith's Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve
Bert Smith’s Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve
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