Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Pete Berry
Peter D. Berry (1856–1932) was a pivotal figure in the early history of Grand Canyon tourism and exploration, instrumental in developing the Bright Angel Trail, one of the most iconic hiking routes in Grand Canyon National Park. A prospector, trailblazer, and entrepreneur, Berry’s efforts in the late 19th and early 20th centuries helped transform the rugged South Rim into a gateway for adventurers and tourists. His work on the Bright Angel Trail, alongside partners Ralph and Niles Cameron, opened the canyon’s depths to miners and visitors alike, laying the foundation for its modern status as a premier hiking destination. This article explores Berry’s life, his contributions to the trail, and the historical context of his endeavors, drawing on primary and secondary sources to paint a vivid picture of his legacy.
Early Life and Arrival at the Grand Canyon
Born in 1856, likely in Colorado, Peter D. Berry’s early years were shaped by the restless spirit of the American frontier. Little is documented about his childhood, but by the 1880s, he had settled in Flagstaff, Arizona, a burgeoning hub for prospectors and pioneers. Married to May Henderson, Berry’s domestic life was strained by his frequent prospecting trips, which often left his wife alone for weeks or months. Supported by Flagstaff’s first settler, Thomas F. McMillan, Berry joined forces with brothers Ralph and Niles Cameron, Edwin Gale, and Robert Ferguson to explore the Grand Canyon for mineral wealth in 1888. Their search culminated in a significant discovery in April 1890: a rich vein of copper on Horseshoe Mesa, which became the Last Chance Mine, the Grand Canyon’s most successful copper strike.
To access this claim, Berry and his partners needed reliable routes into the canyon. The Havasupai people had long used a path along the Bright Angel Fault to reach Indian Garden, a fertile oasis watered by Garden Creek, for seasonal farming. This ancient trail, marked by pictographs and petroglyphs depicting hunts and directions, provided a natural starting point. Recognizing its potential, Berry, Ralph, and Niles Cameron began improving the trail in 1890, widening it and extending it toward the Colorado River to facilitate mining operations. Their efforts cost approximately $500, a significant investment for the time, and laid the groundwork for what would become the Bright Angel Trail.
Development of the Bright Angel Trail
In February 1891, Berry registered the improved trail with Yavapai County as the “Bright Angel Toll Road,” though it was often called “Cameron’s Trail” due to Ralph Cameron’s later control. The trail’s name, Bright Angel, is steeped in legend. One story, attributed to canyon pioneer John Hance, claimed it was named for a beautiful woman who frequented the trail and mysteriously vanished, dubbed the “Bright Angel.” Another tale suggested a Catholic priest, starving and dehydrated, named the trail after reaching Bright Angel Creek on the North Rim. While these stories add folklore to the trail’s history, its practical purpose was clear: to provide access to mining claims and, later, to capitalize on growing tourism.
Berry’s engineering skills were crucial in shaping both the Bright Angel and Grandview Trails. The Bright Angel Trail followed the Bright Angel Fault, a geological break that allowed a navigable descent through the canyon’s formidable layers, including the 300-foot Coconino sandstone and 500-foot Redwall Limestone cliffs. The trail stretched approximately 9.5 miles from the South Rim (6,850 feet elevation) to the Colorado River (2,460 feet), with an average grade of 10%. Key features included switchbacks, later dubbed “Jacob’s Ladder” and “Devil’s Corkscrew,” which navigated steep descents through Kaibab Limestone and Vishnu Schist, the canyon’s oldest rock at nearly 2 billion years old. Berry’s improvements made the trail suitable for pack animals and miners, with stone and timber reinforcements that remain visible today, testifying to his craftsmanship.
In 1891, Berry transferred control of the Bright Angel Trail to Ralph Cameron in exchange for ownership of the Grandview Trail, which accessed the Last Chance Mine on Horseshoe Mesa. This exchange reflected Berry’s focus on mining and his strategic decision to prioritize Grandview, where he would later establish a thriving tourist enterprise. Cameron, however, saw greater potential in tourism, especially with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway nearing the South Rim. In 1901, the railroad reached Grand Canyon Village, terminating near the Bright Angel Trailhead, dramatically increasing its value. Cameron began charging a $1 toll (equivalent to about $35 in 2025) to access the trail, plus fees for water and outhouses at Indian Garden, capitalizing on the influx of visitors.
Berry’s Grandview Hotel and Tourism Ventures
While Cameron controlled the Bright Angel Trail, Berry focused on Grandview, 15 miles east of the trailhead. In 1897, Berry, now divorced from May Henderson, married Martha J. Thompson, a housekeeper at his Grandview Hotel. Opened that year, the Grandview Hotel became the first lodge at the Grand Canyon, offering comfortable rooms and tent cabins for tourists. Berry’s enterprise provided stage transportation to the railhead at Anita, carriage rides along the rim, and guided tours below the rim with seasoned guides and sure-footed mules. The 1900 U.S. Census listed Berry, age 42, as a hotel proprietor, underscoring his shift from mining to tourism.
The Grandview Hotel thrived until the railroad’s arrival in 1901 diverted tourist traffic to Bright Angel Camp, rendering Grandview less accessible. Berry adapted by securing county permission to repair the Flagstaff-Grand Canyon Road, promoting five-hour stage drives to Grandview. He continued managing the hotel, which served as a hub for early canyon tourism, until 1916, when it closed due to declining business. The hotel’s logs were later repurposed for the Desert View Watchtower, dedicated in 1932, preserving a piece of Berry’s legacy.
Competition and Legal Battles
The Bright Angel Trail’s growing popularity sparked fierce competition and legal disputes. In 1896, James Thurber built the Bright Angel Hotel at the trailhead, followed by Buckey O’Neill’s adjacent camp. Martin Buggeln acquired the hotel in 1901, aligning it with the railroad’s arrival, but Ralph Cameron’s control of the trail led to conflicts. As chairman of the Coconino County Board of Supervisors (1905–1907), Cameron leveraged political influence to pass a 1906 law extending toll road developers’ control, securing the trail for himself despite a vetoed bill and a lucrative offer from the Santa Fe Railway. The Kolb brothers, Ellsworth and Emery, further capitalized on the trail’s traffic by establishing a photography studio in 1902, selling souvenir photos of mule riders.
The National Park Service (NPS), established in 1916, sought to bring the trail under federal control. Arizona Congressman Carl Hayden, a key advocate for Grand Canyon National Park (created in 1919), pushed for the government to acquire the Bright Angel Toll Road. Cameron resisted, using his influence as a U.S. Senator (1921–1927) to maintain control until 1928, when the NPS finally assumed ownership, eliminating tolls and making the trail freely accessible. Berry, meanwhile, had surrendered his legal claim in 1906, focusing instead on Grandview.
Legacy and Impact
Peter D. Berry’s contributions to the Grand Canyon were profound yet understated. His work on the Bright Angel and Grandview Trails made the canyon’s depths accessible, enabling mining, tourism, and scientific exploration. The Bright Angel Trail, now a well-maintained corridor trail with resthouses, water stations (May–October), and connections to Havasupai Gardens and Phantom Ranch, remains the park’s most popular hiking route. Its cultural significance is tied to the Havasupai, who were forcibly displaced by 1928, and whose legacy is honored by the 2022 renaming of Indian Garden to Havasupai Gardens.
Despite his impact, Berry’s name is absent from canyon landmarks, an oversight noted by historians. His trails, particularly the Bright Angel, facilitated early tourism and inspired later developments, such as the NPS’s South Kaibab Trail (1924) and Hermit Trail (1911), built to bypass Cameron’s tolls. Berry’s Grandview Hotel set a precedent for canyon hospitality, influencing later establishments like the Bright Angel Lodge, designed by Mary Colter in 1935.
Berry spent nearly half a century at the Grand Canyon, living his final years with Martha at the Coconino Basin Ranch near Desert View after the death of his son Ralph in the 1919 Spanish influenza epidemic. He died in 1932, leaving a legacy etched in the trails he built and the tourists he welcomed. His work transformed the Grand Canyon from a remote frontier into a global destination, ensuring that generations could experience its geological and cultural wonders.
Sources
- Grand Canyon National Park: Miners.
- Peter D. Berry – kaibab.org.
- Bright Angel Trail – Nature, Culture and History at the Grand Canyon.
- Bright Angel Trail – Wikipedia.
- Bright Angel Trail – Grand Canyon Conservancy.
- History | ASU Library.
- 5 Epic Untold Stories Of Grand Canyon Pioneer Pete Berry.
Dr. George E. Goodfellow, the “Gunfighter’s Surgeon”
Dr. George Emory Goodfellow (1855–1910) was a renowned physician and surgeon in Tombstone, Arizona, during its 1880s silver-mining boom. Known as the “Gunfighter’s Surgeon,” he settled in Tombstone in 1880, practicing above the Crystal Palace Saloon. A pioneer in trauma surgery, he became the nation’s leading expert on gunshot wounds, performing the first documented laparotomy for abdominal injuries, using sterile techniques like lye soap or whiskey, and developing spinal anesthesia. He treated lawmen and outlaws alike, including victims of the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral aftermath, and served as county coroner, conducting autopsies like Morgan Earp’s in 1882. Goodfellow observed silk’s bullet-resistant properties, influencing later body armor development, though he held no patents. A civic leader, he co-founded local societies, studied Gila monster venom, and mapped an 1887 earthquake rupture. His work in Tombstone (1880–1891) solidified his legacy as a pioneering trauma surgeon and key figure in the town’s history.
Early Life and Education
George Emory Goodfellow was born on December 23, 1855, in Downieville, California, a gold-mining town in the Sierra Nevada. His father, Milton J. Goodfellow, was a mining engineer, and his mother was Amanda Ann Baskin. At age 12, George was sent to Pennsylvania for schooling, later attending the California Military Academy in Oakland. In 1872, at 17, he enrolled at the U.S. Naval Academy in Annapolis, where he became the school’s boxing champion. However, his naval career ended abruptly after he assaulted John Henry Conyers, the academy’s first Black cadet, in a hazing incident, leading to his dismissal in December 1872 amid a national scandal.
Undeterred, Goodfellow pursued medicine, studying under his cousin, a physician, and enrolling at the Wooster University School of Medicine (now the College of Wooster) in Ohio. He graduated with honors in 1876. That same year, he married Katherine Colt, cousin of Samuel Colt, the revolver manufacturer whose .45-caliber firearms would later contribute to Goodfellow’s surgical expertise.
Move to Arizona and Early Career
Goodfellow briefly practiced medicine in Oakland, California, before his restlessness led him to Arizona Territory. In 1876, he served as an acting assistant surgeon at Fort Whipple in Prescott, where his father worked for a mining company. He later became a contract surgeon at Fort Lowell near Tucson in 1879 and briefly at Fort Bowie in 1880, though he likely did not participate in Apache campaigns. On September 15, 1880, Goodfellow canceled his Army contract and relocated to Tombstone, Arizona Territory, a silver-mining boomtown founded in 1879 with a population exceeding 2,000.
Role in Tombstone, Arizona
Tombstone, known as “The Town Too Tough to Die,” was a volatile frontier town teeming with miners, outlaws, and lawmen, including Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, and the Cochise County Cowboys. Goodfellow opened his medical practice above the Crystal Palace Saloon, one of the West’s most luxurious establishments, strategically placing him in the heart of the action. Only four of the town’s 12 doctors, including Goodfellow, held medical diplomas, earning him a reputation as a skilled and scientific physician in a region where improvisation often defined medical care.
During the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, Virgil Earp, serving as Deputy U.S. Marshal and Tombstone City Marshal, was shot through the calf. Dr. Goodfellow, a skilled surgeon known as the “Gunshot Physician,” provided immediate medical care to Virgil. The sources do not provide specific details about the treatment process for this particular wound, but Goodfellow’s general approach to gunshot wounds emphasized sterile techniques, which were innovative for the time. He often cleaned wounds with lye soap or whiskey to prevent infection, a practice that set him apart from many contemporary physicians. Given the nature of a calf wound, Goodfellow likely cleaned and dressed the injury, ensuring it was stabilized to promote healing and prevent complications such as infection. His treatment was successful, as Virgil survived and continued his duties, though he likely experienced lingering effects from the injury.
Two months later, on the night of December 28, 1881, Virgil was ambushed by three men hiding in an unfinished building across Allen Street from the Cosmopolitan Hotel. He was hit in the back and left arm with three loads of double-barreled buckshot from about 60 feet. The injuries were severe, resulting in a longitudinal fracture of the humerus and damage to the elbow, with approximately 20 buckshot pellets lodged near his hip bone and above the groin. Dr. Goodfellow treated Virgil at the Cosmopolitan Hotel, using the medical tools in his bag and additional supplies fetched from the local hospital by George Parsons and another individual.
Goodfellow advised amputation of Virgil’s left arm due to the extent of the damage, but Virgil refused. Instead, Goodfellow performed a complex surgery under challenging conditions, removing more than 3–4 inches (76–100 mm) of shattered humerus bone. The procedure was unable to fully repair the longitudinal fracture or the elbow, leaving Virgil’s arm permanently crippled. Additionally, Goodfellow extracted the buckshot pellets embedded in Virgil’s back and hip area, addressing the risk of infection and further complications. His use of sterile techniques, such as cleaning wounds with lye soap or whiskey, likely played a critical role in preventing sepsis, a common cause of death in such injuries at the time. Despite the permanent disability, Goodfellow’s intervention saved Virgil’s life and preserved his arm, allowing him to later serve as a marshal in Colton, California, using his good arm to handle a gun.
Medical Innovations and Gunshot Wound Expertise
Goodfellow became the nation’s foremost expert on gunshot wounds, earning the moniker “Gunfighter’s Surgeon.” Tombstone’s frequent violence provided ample opportunity to hone his skills. He treated both lawmen and outlaws, including members of the notorious Cowboys like Curly Bill Brocius. His pioneering work included:
- First Documented Laparotomy: On July 4, 1881, Goodfellow successfully performed a laparotomy—small incisions to treat abdominal gunshot wounds—on a miner shot nine days earlier, a procedure that became the standard for such injuries. He emphasized that without surgery within an hour, victims of .44 or .45-caliber abdominal wounds faced certain death due to hemorrhage.
- Sterile Techniques: Goodfellow insisted on cleaning wounds with lye soap or whiskey, a practice ahead of its time when many surgeons ignored sterile protocols. His methods improved survival rates and contrasted with the unsanitary care that led to President James Garfield’s death from a gunshot wound in 1881.
- Perineal Prostatectomy: In 1891, while in Tucson, Goodfellow performed the first documented perineal prostatectomy to remove an enlarged prostate, a significant urological advancement. He completed 78 such operations with only two deaths.
- Spinal Anesthesia: He pioneered spinal anesthesia by mixing cocaine with spinal fluid, injecting it into the spine to numb patients during surgery, a technique rare in the frontier.
As county coroner, Goodfellow conducted autopsies, including Morgan Earp’s after his 1882 assassination. His report detailed the bullet’s path through the left kidney, spinal column, and great vessels, causing fatal hemorrhage. His dark humor was evident in reports, such as describing a corpse as “rich in lead, but too badly punctured to hold whiskey” or ruling a lynching victim’s death as due to “emphysema of the lungs” caused by strangulation.
Notable Incidents and Community Involvement
Goodfellow’s practice extended beyond gunshot wounds. During the June 1881 Tombstone fire, he reconstructed George W. Parsons’ nose, deformed by falling wood, using a wire framework, refusing payment for the service.
He was a civic leader, co-founding the Tombstone Club, a reading society, and the Tombstone Scientific Society. He invested in the Huachuca Water Company, which built a 23-mile pipeline to Tombstone. His naturalist pursuits included studying Gila monster venom, debunking myths about its lethality by surviving a self-induced bite in 1891, and publishing findings in Scientific American.
In 1886, Goodfellow joined the pursuit of Geronimo after the Apache leader’s escape from the San Carlos Reservation, later befriending him and winning a $20 bet by testing Geronimo’s silent arrow-shooting technique. In 1887, he led a relief effort to Bavispe, Sonora, after a devastating earthquake, earning the title “El Santo Doctor” and a horse from Mexican President Porfirio Díaz. With photographer Camillus S. Fly, he mapped the earthquake’s surface rupture, publishing the first such map in North America in Science.
Later Career and Life
In 1891, Goodfellow moved to Tucson after his friend Dr. John C. Handy was fatally shot, taking over Handy’s practice and becoming chief surgeon for the Southern Pacific Railroad. He performed Arizona’s first appendectomy that year. His wife, Katherine, died in 1891, leaving him with their daughter, Edith (born 1879); their son, George Milton, died in 1882. Goodfellow remarried Mary Elizabeth before March 1906.
In 1898, he served as a civilian surgeon in the Spanish-American War, leveraging his Spanish fluency to negotiate a peace settlement in Cuba, earning a Distinguished Service Order. After the war, he practiced in San Francisco, becoming a leading physician. In 1910, while working as chief surgeon for the Southern Pacific Railroad in Mexico, he contracted multiple neuritis, likely from overwork or exposure, and died in Los Angeles on December 7, 1910, at age 54.
Legacy
Dr. George E. Goodfellow’s 11 years in Tombstone (1880–1891) cemented his reputation as a pioneering trauma surgeon and scientist. His innovations in laparotomy, sterile techniques, prostatectomy, and spinal anesthesia were decades ahead of their time, earning him recognition as the first civilian trauma surgeon. His work on silk’s bullet resistance foreshadowed modern body armor. The University of Arizona School of Medicine honors him with the George E. Goodfellow Society. Despite personal flaws—hard drinking, womanizing, and a pugnacious temperament—Goodfellow’s contributions to medicine and Tombstone’s history remain legendary.
Sources:
- Didusch Museum, “A Truth Stranger Than Fiction: The Life and Times of Dr. George Emery Goodfellow”
- True West Magazine, various articles
- Sharlot Hall Museum
- DeGruyter Brill, “Bulletproof Silk: Observations of Dr George E. Goodfellow”
Lower Pines Campground
Lower Pines Campground, located in the heart of Yosemite Valley at 4,000 feet elevation, is one of three reservation-based campgrounds in Yosemite National Park. With 73 single-family campsites, it’s smaller and slightly less hectic than its larger neighbor, Upper Pines, but still offers a prime base for exploring iconic landmarks like Half Dome, El Capitan, and Yosemite Falls. Open from March through October, Lower Pines is ideal for campers seeking proximity to Yosemite’s major attractions while enjoying a forested setting along the Merced River. However, its popularity and compact layout mean limited privacy and high demand. Below is a detailed review covering its setting, amenities, accessibility, and overall experience, paired with a vivid description of the Yosemite Valley floor.
Description of Yosemite Valley Floor
Yosemite Valley, the stunning backdrop for Lower Pines Campground, is a glacial-carved wonder spanning roughly 7 miles long and 1 mile wide at 4,000 feet elevation. Framed by sheer granite cliffs, the valley floor is a breathtaking mosaic of natural beauty. The Merced River winds gently through it, its clear waters reflecting the surrounding peaks and adding a soothing ambiance to the campground. Towering landmarks dominate the skyline: Half Dome’s iconic granite face rises sharply to the east, El Capitan’s massive wall looms to the west, and Yosemite Falls, one of North America’s tallest waterfalls, plunges dramatically, especially in spring when snowmelt fuels its flow.
The valley floor blends dense forests of Ponderosa pine, California black oak, and white fir with open meadows like Cooks Meadow, which bloom with wildflowers in spring and early summer. These meadows attract wildlife, including mule deer, squirrels, and occasionally black bears, adding to the area’s allure. Approximately 12 miles of paved bike paths and hiking trails crisscross the valley, making it easy to explore landmarks like Glacier Point (accessible by a short drive) or Mirror Lake. The valley’s flat terrain is ideal for cycling or leisurely walks, with golden sunlight illuminating the cliffs at sunset and morning mists creating a magical atmosphere. However, summer crowds can make trails and shuttle stops feel congested, particularly around popular sites like Yosemite Village.
Campground Details
Location and Accessibility
Lower Pines Campground is situated near Curry Village (also known as Half Dome Village) on Southside Drive, just across from Upper Pines and near the Happy Isles trailhead. Its central location offers easy access to trails like the Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls and the John Muir Trail. The campground is reachable via Highway 41 from Fresno, Highway 140 from Merced, or Highway 120 from Manteca, with clear park signage guiding visitors to Yosemite Valley. A free shuttle bus stops near the campground entrance, connecting campers to key valley attractions like Yosemite Village and the visitor center, reducing the need for driving.
Lower Pines offers one wheelchair-accessible site with an extended-top picnic table and nearby accessible restrooms. Paved roads and parking spurs ensure accessibility, though some sites are compact, requiring careful navigation for larger vehicles. Check-in is required at the campground kiosk, with after-hours arrivals needing to complete registration the next morning to avoid cancellation.
Amenities
Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring with grill, and a bear-proof food storage locker (33”D x 45”W x 18”H). The campground provides flush toilets and drinking water but lacks electric, water, or sewer hook-ups at individual sites. A free dump station is available near Upper Pines, a short walk or drive away. Showers and laundry facilities are accessible at Curry Village or Housekeeping Camp, roughly a 10-minute walk or short shuttle ride. A general store, restaurants, and an activities desk at Curry Village meet additional needs, such as groceries or tour bookings.
Campsite Layout and Privacy
Lower Pines is organized into a single loop with sites nestled among Ponderosa pines and along the Merced River, offering a scenic but compact layout. The forested setting provides shade, but the close proximity of sites limits privacy. Some sites, particularly those along the river (e.g., sites 1–6), offer picturesque views and the soothing sound of flowing water, though these are highly coveted. Campers often describe the layout as crowded, with tents and RVs parked closely together, creating a “communal” feel. “It’s like camping in a busy neighborhood,” noted one reviewer (The Dyrt, 2020). Perimeter sites or those near the river provide slightly more seclusion, but noise from neighboring campers or nearby Curry Village can be an issue.
RV and Tent Camping
Lower Pines accommodates tents, RVs up to 40 feet, and trailers up to 35 feet, though not all sites can handle maximum lengths, so checking site details on Recreation.gov is critical. Each site allows two vehicles (trailers excluded), with all wheels required to stay on paved surfaces. Generator use is limited to 7–9 AM, 12–2 PM, and 5–7 PM to reduce noise. Overflow parking is available near Curry Village for additional vehicles.
Reservation and Cost
Reservations are required from March through October and are available up to five months in advance via Recreation.gov, opening on the 15th of each month at 7:00 AM PST. Sites cost $26–$36 per night, with double sites (7–12 people) at $36. Demand is intense, especially in summer, with sites often booked within minutes. “It’s a race to get a spot—be online at 7 AM sharp,” advised a camper (Yelp, 2025). A waitlist is available in person at the campground office near Curry Village, with a few spots typically released daily due to cancellations. The campground closes from November to February, when Upper Pines takes over as the primary valley campground.
Activities and Attractions
Lower Pines’ prime location makes it a hub for outdoor activities. Nearby trails include the easy 2-mile roundtrip to Mirror Lake, the strenuous 7-mile Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls, and the challenging 14–16-mile Half Dome hike (permit required). The valley’s 12 miles of paved bike paths are perfect for exploring, with bike rentals available at Curry Village. Rafting on the Merced River is popular in summer, and ranger-led programs, including stargazing and naturalist talks, are offered nearby. Yosemite Village, a short shuttle ride away, houses a museum, art center, and visitor center. For climbers, Curry Village offers a climbing school, and guided bus tours provide an overview of the valley’s geology and history.
Wildlife and Safety
Yosemite Valley is a hotspot for wildlife, including black bears, mule deer, and raccoons, requiring strict adherence to food storage rules. All food, toiletries, and scented items must be stored in bear-proof lockers, not vehicles, to prevent bear encounters. “Bears are no joke here—use the lockers!” warned a camper (Campendium, 2023). Rangers patrol regularly and issue citations for violations. Trash must be disposed of in bear-proof dumpsters, and recycling stations support the park’s zero-landfill goal. The 4,000-foot elevation may affect those sensitive to altitude, and weather ranges from warm summers (70–90°F) to chilly spring and fall nights (30–50°F), so layered clothing is recommended. Check forecasts, as sudden rain or snow can occur in shoulder seasons.
Campground Map
Camper Feedback
Positives
- Location: Campers rave about Lower Pines’ central location. “You’re steps from the Mist Trail and a shuttle ride from everything else” (Hipcamp, June 2025). Its proximity to Curry Village and major trailheads is a major draw.
- Scenery: The Merced River and views of Half Dome and Glacier Point are highlights. “Waking up to the river and granite cliffs is unreal” (The Dyrt, 2021). Riverfront sites are particularly prized.
- Amenities: Flush toilets and drinking water are well-maintained, with campers noting, “Bathrooms were clean, and water was always available” (Yelp, 2025). Access to showers and stores at Curry Village adds convenience.
- Staff: Rangers and camp hosts are responsive, addressing issues like noise or wildlife concerns promptly. “The ranger helped us secure our site after a mix-up—super professional” (PerfectCamp, April 2025).
Negatives
- Crowding and Noise: The compact layout means limited privacy. “Sites are packed in tight, and you hear everything from your neighbors” (The Dyrt, 2020). Quiet hours (10 PM–6 AM) are enforced, but noise from Curry Village or large groups can persist.
- Bathroom Maintenance: While generally clean, peak-season crowds can strain facilities. “Men’s restrooms got messy by day three,” reported a camper (Campendium, 2023).
- Reservations: Booking is highly competitive. “It took multiple tries over months to snag a site” (Tripadvisor, 2024). Daily checks for cancellations on Recreation.gov are recommended.
- Bear Activity: Frequent bear sightings require vigilance. “A bear wandered through at 2 AM—scary but exciting!” (The Dyrt, 2021).
Tips for Campers
- Book Early: Reserve exactly five months in advance at 7:00 AM PST on Recreation.gov. Monitor cancellations for last-minute openings.
- Choose River Sites: Sites 1–6 along the Merced River offer scenic views and a bit more space. Check site dimensions for RV or trailer fit.
- Bring Bikes: Bikes are ideal for navigating the valley’s paved paths. “Biking saved us from crowded shuttles,” noted a reviewer (Tripadvisor, 2025).
- Bear Safety: Store all scented items in bear lockers and consider a padlock for security. Never leave food unattended, even briefly.
- Plan for Crowds: Visit in April or October for fewer crowds and vibrant scenery (spring waterfalls or fall colors). Early mornings are best for quiet trails.
- Weather Prep: Pack for variable weather, including rain gear and warm layers for cool nights.
Overall Experience
Lower Pines Campground offers an exceptional Yosemite experience for those prioritizing location over solitude. Its setting along the Merced River, with views of Half Dome and El Capitan, immerses campers in the valley’s unparalleled beauty. The campground’s proximity to trails, bike paths, and shuttle stops makes it a convenient base for adventure. However, its small size and dense layout mean limited privacy and a communal atmosphere, with noise and crowds as common complaints. With strategic planning—early reservations, riverfront site selection, and bear safety adherence—Lower Pines delivers a memorable stay in one of the world’s most iconic national parks. “The valley’s magic makes the crowds worth it,” summed up a camper (The Dyrt, 2021).
Sources: Recreation.gov, Yosemite.com, NPS.gov, The Dyrt, Yelp, Tripadvisor, Hipcamp, Campendium, PerfectCamp, CampsitePhotos.com
Upper Pines Campground
Upper Pines Campground, nestled in the heart of Yosemite Valley at an elevation of 4,000 feet, is the largest of the three reservation-based campgrounds in Yosemite National Park, offering 238 single-family campsites. Open year-round, it’s a prime choice for campers seeking proximity to iconic landmarks like Half Dome, El Capitan, and Yosemite Falls. Its central location, surrounded by the awe-inspiring Sierra Nevada landscape, makes it a popular base for exploring the park’s natural wonders. However, its popularity comes with trade-offs, including crowded conditions and limited privacy. Below is a detailed review based on its setting, amenities, accessibility, and overall experience, along with a vivid description of the Yosemite Valley floor.
Yosemite Valley Floor
Yosemite Valley, where Upper Pines Campground is situated, is a geological masterpiece carved by glaciers over millennia. At approximately 4,000 feet elevation, the valley floor spans about 7 miles long and 1 mile wide, cradled by towering granite cliffs and lush forests. The Merced River meanders through the valley, its gentle flow providing a serene soundtrack to the campground. Visitors are greeted with breathtaking views of iconic formations: Half Dome’s sheer face dominates the eastern skyline, while El Capitan’s monolithic presence looms to the west. Yosemite Falls, one of the tallest waterfalls in North America, cascades dramatically in the spring, visible from various points in the valley.
The valley floor is a vibrant mix of ecosystems, featuring Ponderosa pine, California black oak, and white fir trees that create a fragrant, shaded canopy over much of Upper Pines. Open meadows, like Cooks Meadow, burst with wildflowers in spring and early summer, attracting mule deer and other wildlife. The valley’s flat terrain is crisscrossed with 12 miles of paved bike paths and hiking trails, making it ideal for exploration by foot or bike. Landmarks like Glacier Point, accessible by a short drive, offer panoramic vistas of the valley, Half Dome, and distant peaks like Clouds Rest. The valley’s beauty is ever-changing, with golden light bathing the cliffs at sunset and misty mornings adding a mystical quality to the landscape. However, its popularity draws large crowds, especially in summer, leading to bustling trails and busy shuttle stops.
Campground Details
Location and Accessibility
Upper Pines Campground is located near the end of Southside Drive, close to Curry Village (now called Half Dome Village) and the Happy Isles trailhead, providing easy access to major trails like the Mist Trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls. The campground is reachable via Highway 41 from Fresno, Highway 140 from Merced, or Highway 120 from Manteca, with clear signage directing visitors to Yosemite Valley. A free shuttle bus stops near the campground entrance, connecting campers to key valley attractions, reducing the need to drive.
The campground features paved roads and parking spurs, with designated wheelchair-accessible sites (6, 7, 21, 26, 27, 28, 29, 39, 42, and 43) equipped with extended-top picnic tables and nearby accessible restrooms. Check-in is required at the campground kiosk, with after-hours arrivals needing to complete check-in the next morning to avoid cancellation.
Amenities
Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring with grill, and a bear-proof food storage locker (35”D x 43”W x 28”H). The campground provides flush toilets, drinking water, and a free dump station near the entrance, though no electric, water, or sewer hook-ups are available at individual sites. Showers and laundry facilities are accessible at Curry Village or Housekeeping Camp, about a 10-minute walk or short shuttle ride away. A general store, restaurants, and an activities desk at Curry Village cater to additional needs.
Campsite Layout and Privacy
Upper Pines is organized into six one-way loops, with sites closely spaced in a heavily forested setting. While the Ponderosa pine forest offers shade, privacy is limited due to the campground’s high density. Sites like 8, 9, 10, 21, 46, 62, 69, 99, 108, 137, 156, 172, 179, 182, 197, 202, 204, 206, 207, 208, 210, 211, 216, 220, 222, 226, 228, 230, 238, 239, and 240 are noted for better privacy or scenic views, often located along the perimeter or near natural features like streams. For example, site 222 is praised for its proximity to a small stream, adding ambiance. However, many campers describe the layout as feeling like a “parking lot,” with little space between sites, making it challenging to escape noise from neighboring campers.
RV and Tent Camping
The campground accommodates tents, RVs up to 35 feet, and trailers up to 24 feet, though not all sites can handle maximum lengths, so checking site details on Recreation.gov is essential. Two vehicles are allowed per site (trailers excluded), with all wheels required to stay on paved surfaces. Generator use is restricted to 7–9 AM, 12–2 PM, and 5–7 PM to minimize noise. Overflow parking is available nearby.
Reservation and Cost
Reservations are required from March 15 through November, available up to five months in advance via Recreation.gov, opening on the 15th of each month at 7:00 AM PST. Sites cost $26–$36 per night, with double sites (7–12 people) at $36. From December to mid-March, a limited number of sites (about 50 in the first two loops) are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Demand is high, especially in summer, and sites often sell out within minutes. A waitlist is available in person at the campground office near Half Dome Village, with 10–20 spots typically released daily due to cancellations.
Activities and Attractions
Upper Pines’ location is ideal for outdoor enthusiasts. Nearby trails include the easy 2-mile roundtrip to Mirror Lake and the strenuous 14–16-mile Half Dome trek (permit required). The Mist Trail, leading to Vernal and Nevada Falls, and the Yosemite Falls Trail are within walking distance. Biking is highly recommended, with 12 miles of paved paths offering a car-free way to explore the valley. Rafting on the Merced River is popular in summer when water levels permit. Ranger-led programs, museums, and an art center provide educational and cultural experiences. Curry Village offers guided bus tours and a climbing school for those interested in Yosemite’s world-renowned rock climbing.
Wildlife and Safety
Yosemite Valley is home to black bears, mule deer, bobcats, and other wildlife, necessitating strict food storage protocols. All food, toiletries, and scented items must be stored in bear lockers, not vehicles, to prevent bear incidents. Campers report frequent bear activity, especially at night, and rangers enforce compliance with citations for violations. Trash must be disposed of in bear-proof dumpsters, and the park encourages zero-landfill practices with recycling stations. Altitude awareness is advised due to the 4,000-foot elevation, and weather can vary from snowy winters to hot summers, so checking forecasts is crucial.
Campground Map
Camper Feedback
Positives
- Location: Campers consistently praise Upper Pines for its unbeatable proximity to Yosemite’s major attractions. “The location cannot be beat. You are in the valley with all the adventures right there!” (Hipcamp, November 2025). The campground’s access to trails and the shuttle system makes it a convenient base.
- Scenery: The views of granite cliffs and the forested setting are highlights. “The view up the valley walls is amazing” (The Dyrt, September 2020). Sites along the perimeter, like 222, offer scenic touches like streams.
- Amenities: Clean flush toilets and accessible drinking water are well-maintained, with campers noting, “The women’s bathrooms were surprisingly clean all 5 days” (Yelp, 2025). The dump station and proximity to showers at Curry Village are appreciated.
- Staff: Rangers and camp hosts are responsive, quickly addressing issues like noisy campers (X post, May 10, 2025). A camper highlighted a ranger named Judy who accommodated a trailer issue, ensuring a positive experience (PerfectCamp, May 4, 2025).
Negatives
- Crowding and Noise: The campground’s size and density lead to a lack of privacy. “Probably the most crowded campgrounds I’ve ever been to. Felt more like a refugee camp” (The Dyrt, 2020). Noise from neighboring sites, especially large groups, can disrupt sleep, with quiet hours (10 PM–6 AM) not always enforced effectively.
- Bathroom Conditions: While women’s restrooms receive positive reviews, some campers report issues with men’s facilities, citing litter and poor maintenance during peak times (Campendium, 2013).
- Reservations: Securing a site is challenging, with availability selling out quickly. “It took over a year and a half to reserve 4 consecutive sites” (The Dyrt, 2020). Checking Recreation.gov daily for cancellations is advised.
- Bear Activity: Frequent bear visits require vigilance. “There is HEAVY BEAR ACTIVITY. Keep all food/toothpaste/sunscreen in the bear bin” (The Dyrt, 2020).
Tips for Campers
- Book Early: Reserve exactly five months in advance at 7:00 AM PST on Recreation.gov, as sites sell out quickly. Monitor for cancellations if you miss the initial window.
- Bring Bikes: Bikes are a game-changer for navigating the valley’s trails and avoiding crowded shuttles. “My number one recommendation is: BIKES, bring bikes” (Tripadvisor, 2016).
- Bear Precautions: Use bear lockers for all scented items, including canned goods and toiletries. A padlock for the locker is recommended to deter theft (Yelp, 2025).
- Site Selection: Choose perimeter sites (e.g., 21, 156, 222) for slightly more privacy or scenic features. Check site dimensions on Recreation.gov to ensure RV or trailer compatibility.
- Plan for Crowds: Visit in May for waterfalls or September for fall colors to avoid peak summer crowds. Wake up early to beat crowds on popular trails.
- Weather Prep: Pack for variable weather, especially in spring or fall, as the valley can be cold in the shade of cliffs.
Overall Experience
Upper Pines Campground is a fantastic choice for those prioritizing location and convenience over solitude. Its setting on the Yosemite Valley floor immerses campers in one of the world’s most stunning natural landscapes, with easy access to trails, biking, and park amenities. The trade-off is a crowded, sometimes noisy environment with limited privacy, akin to a “parking lot” campground. For many, the chance to sleep under the stars surrounded by Half Dome and El Capitan outweighs these drawbacks. “The natural beauty of this place forgives every shortfall” (The Dyrt, November 2020). With proper planning—early reservations, bikes, and bear safety adherence—Upper Pines offers an unforgettable Yosemite experience.
Rating: 4/5 stars. The unparalleled location and solid amenities earn high marks, but crowding and occasional maintenance issues prevent a perfect score.
Sources: Recreation.gov, Yosemite.com, NPS.gov, The Dyrt, Yelp, Tripadvisor, Hipcamp, Campendium, PerfectCamp, CampsitePhotos.com
Waterman S Bodey
Waterman S Bodey (14 May 1814 – 9 Dec 1859 ) was a prospector whose name became immortalized in the annals of American mining history through the town of Bodie, California. Little is known about Bodey’s early life, but his story intersects with the era of the California Gold Rush, a period marked by the discovery of gold in 1848 and the subsequent influx of prospectors and fortune seekers to the Sierra Nevada region.
Bodey hailed from Poughkeepsie, New York, and like many others, he was drawn to the West by the promise of gold and a better life. In 1859, Bodey, along with a companion named E.S. “Black” Taylor, discovered gold in the hills east of the Sierra Nevada, near what is now the Nevada-California border. This discovery marked the beginning of what would later become the town of Bodie.
Despite the potential of his discovery, Bodey did not live to see the full flourishing of the town that bore his name. Tragically, in November of 1859, Waterman S. Bodey perished in a blizzard while attempting to return to his camp with supplies from Monoville, a nearby settlement. His untimely death left him largely unknown, even as the settlement he helped found grew.
The town of Bodie itself experienced a boom in the late 1870s following the discovery of a profitable gold vein by the Standard Company in 1876. This discovery sparked a rush to the area, transforming the camp into a thriving mining town with a population that swelled to around 10,000 people at its peak. The town gained a reputation for its lawlessness and rough character, epitomizing the wild and often violent nature of frontier mining towns.
By the 1880s, the boom began to wane as the mines yielded less gold and people moved on to other opportunities. Despite several periods of revival, Bodie eventually became a ghost town, largely abandoned by the early 20th century. Today, Bodie is preserved in a state of arrested decay as a California State Historic Park, drawing visitors who are fascinated by its history and the remnants of its once vibrant community.
Waterman S. Bodey’s legacy lives on through the town that bears his name, a symbol of the rugged determination and perilous fortune-seeking spirit that characterized the California Gold Rush era.