Racetrack Valley

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc…  Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.

Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.
Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.

The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…

Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.

As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.

Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.

The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.
The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.

As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.

The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.

Jeeps and Labradors are not allowed on the playa!

To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.

The Racing stones.
The Racing stones.

At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.

Every racetrack needs a grandstand.
Every racetrack needs a grandstand.

Notoriety

On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.

Racetrack Valley Trail Map

References

The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA

The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.

The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Formation of the Standard Company

The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.

Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill

The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.

Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA.  Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. 
 Photograph by James L Rathbun
Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Technical Details

Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.

Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.

The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away.  Photograph by James L Rathbun
The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.

Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth

The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.

Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots.  Standard Mill, Bodie,
Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots. Standard Mill, Bodie,

Challenges and Decline

All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.
All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.

Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.

Preservation and Historical Significance

Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.

The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie.  Photography by James L Rathbun
The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun

Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.

The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.

The Standard Mill Map

More Standard Mill Photographs

Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus helleri)

Crotalus helleri is a venomous pit viper species commonly known as the Southern Pacific rattlesnake. It is part of the family Viperidae, which includes venomous snakes known for their long, hinged fangs that allow them to deliver venom deep into their prey.

The Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus helleri)   hiding under a granite boulder in Bid Bear, California.
The Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus helleri) hiding under a granite boulder in Bid Bear, California.

Description

Crotalus helleri typically ranges from 60 to 120 centimeters (2 to 4 feet) in length, although some individuals can grow larger. The snake exhibits a variety of color patterns depending on its geographical location. Common colors include brown, olive, gray, and occasionally greenish tones. The body is marked with dark, diamond-shaped blotches running along the length of its back, often bordered by lighter scales. These blotches may be less defined in older individuals. The snake’s head is triangular with a distinct neck, and it has a characteristic rattle at the end of its tail, which it uses as a warning signal.

Distribution and Habitat

Crotalus helleri is primarily found in Southern California, extending into Baja California, Mexico. Its range includes a variety of habitats such as coastal sage scrub, chaparral, grasslands, woodlands, and deserts. The snake is adaptable and can be found at elevations from sea level to over 2,000 meters (6,600 feet).

Behavior

This species is generally diurnal in the cooler months and becomes more nocturnal during the warmer summer months to avoid the heat. Crotalus helleri is a sit-and-wait predator, typically ambushing its prey, which includes small mammals, birds, lizards, and amphibians. The snake’s heat-sensing pit organs, located between the eyes and nostrils, allow it to detect warm-blooded prey even in total darkness.

Reproduction

Crotalus helleri is ovoviviparous, meaning that the females give birth to live young rather than laying eggs. Mating occurs in the spring, and after a gestation period of about 5 to 6 months, the female gives birth to a litter of 4 to 12 young, usually in late summer or early fall. The newborn snakes are independent from birth and are capable of hunting and defending themselves immediately.

Venom

The venom of Crotalus helleri is highly toxic and is composed of a mixture of hemotoxins, neurotoxins, and myotoxins. This potent combination can cause significant tissue damage, disrupt blood clotting, and lead to paralysis. Envenomation in humans requires immediate medical attention, as the venom can be life-threatening if untreated. Antivenom is effective, but the severity of the bite varies depending on the amount of venom injected.

Conservation Status

As of now, Crotalus helleri is not listed as endangered or threatened. However, like many species, it faces threats from habitat destruction, human encroachment, and intentional killing due to its venomous nature. Conservation efforts focus on habitat preservation and public education to reduce unnecessary killings.

Ecological Role

Crotalus helleri plays a crucial role in its ecosystem as both predator and prey. As a predator, it helps control the populations of small mammals and other prey species, which in turn influences the population dynamics of these animals. As prey, it provides food for larger predators such as hawks, eagles, and some mammalian carnivores.

Human Interaction

Encounters between humans and Crotalus helleri are relatively common in Southern California, especially in areas where urban development encroaches on natural habitats. While the snake is generally not aggressive and prefers to avoid confrontation, it will defend itself if threatened. Public education on rattlesnake behavior and safety is essential to minimize negative interactions and ensure the safety of both humans and snakes.

Taxonomy and Classification

  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Reptilia
  • Order: Squamata
  • Family: Viperidae
  • Genus: Crotalus
  • Species: Crotalus helleri

Conclusion

Crotalus helleri is a fascinating and important species within its range. Understanding its biology, behavior, and ecological role is essential for promoting coexistence between humans and wildlife in regions where this rattlesnake is found. Conservation efforts should focus on habitat protection and educating the public about the importance of this species in maintaining ecological balance.

Johnson Canyon Road

Johnson Canyon Road, located in the southern Panamint Range of Death Valley National Park, is a remote backcountry route that functions as both a challenging 4×4 road and a hiking trail. This rugged path leads through a dramatic canyon with steep walls, alluvial fans, and lush oases, offering opportunities to explore historic mining sites, Native American heritage, and wildlife such as bighorn sheep or desert tortoises. Less crowded than frontcountry trails like Golden Canyon, it provides solitude and stunning views of the valley floor. The road starts from West Side Road and ascends into the canyon, with options for day hikes to Willow Spring or Hungry Bill’s Ranch, or longer backpacking trips. High-clearance 4×4 vehicles are required for driving, but hiking is often preferred to avoid damage from rough terrain. Note that while called a “road,” it becomes increasingly trail-like beyond the initial miles.

Key Trail Statistics

AspectDetails
LengthFull out-and-back: ~20 miles (10 miles one-way to road’s end); shorter options: 6-8 miles round-trip to Willow Spring; add 2-4 miles for hike to Hungry Bill’s Ranch from road end. AllTrails lists it as 23.1 miles out-and-back for the full route.
Elevation Gain~3,000-4,000 feet overall (starting ~200 feet below sea level, reaching ~5,000 feet at Hungry Bill’s Ranch); steady climb up the alluvial fan.
DifficultyModerately challenging to strenuous; rocky, eroded sections with loose gravel, steep inclines, and potential washouts. 4×4 high-clearance required for driving; hiking involves boulder-hopping and brushy areas.
Time Required6-10 hours for full road out-and-back hike; 3-5 hours for shorter day hikes; multi-day for backpacking with explorations.
Best Time to VisitOctober to April to avoid extreme heat (over 120°F in summer); year-round access, but flash floods possible July-September.
AccessJunction 7.7 miles from northern end of West Side Road (via Badwater Road). Unmarked—use GPS or park maps. No day-use permit; free backcountry permits for overnight (from visitor centers or online). Dispersed camping allowed 1 mile off West Side Road.
Water and AmenitiesWillow Spring and upper canyon springs (treat water); carry 1+ gallon per person per day. No facilities; nearest at Furnace Creek (~30 miles away).

Trail Map

What to Expect on the Hike

The route begins on a gravelly road from West Side Road, climbing tediously up the alluvial fan with loose rocks and ruts—drivable with caution in 4×4 for the first 5-7 miles, but often hiked to preserve vehicles. The canyon narrows, revealing colorful geologic layers, narrow washes, and views of the Panamint Mountains. Around 3-4 miles in, Willow Spring offers a shaded oasis with cottonwoods and year-round water. Continuing, the road ends at a parking area (~10 miles), where a foot trail leads 1-2 miles to Hungry Bill’s Ranch—featuring historic stone walls, remnant orchards (apples, figs), and Shoshone village sites. Side explorations include old mining tunnels and talc prospects. The terrain includes brushy sections (watch for rattlesnakes) and steep scrambles, with profound desert silence and starry skies for campers. Flash floods can alter the path, creating sand traps or debris.

This low-use trail suits adventurers seeking history and isolation, but demands preparation—no cell service, and self-rescue may be necessary.

Current Conditions (as of August, 2025)

Johnson Canyon Road is open and accessible for hiking and 4×4 travel, following repairs to West Side Road after 2023-2024 floods. Recent reports from late 2024 indicate good conditions, with some rutted alluvial fan sections and brushy areas harboring rattlesnakes, but no major closures. West Side Road is fully open, though high-elevation roads elsewhere in the park reopened in April 2025 after historic flooding. Summer heat remains extreme (temperatures often exceed 110°F), and flash flood risks persist during monsoons—avoid during storms. Check the NPS website or Furnace Creek Visitor Center for updates, as conditions can change rapidly. Tire punctures are common on gravel approaches; carry spares and emergency gear.

History of the Region

History of Johnson Canyon

Johnson Canyon’s history intertwines Indigenous heritage, ranching, and mining, emblematic of Death Valley’s resource-rich but harsh landscape. The area was an ancestral village site for the Timbisha Shoshone (also known as Panamint Shoshone), who utilized its reliable springs and canyons for seasonal habitation, hunting, and gathering for centuries. In the late 1800s, Euro-American settlers arrived; rancher William Johnson established a homestead in the canyon around the 1870s, giving it his name, though he clashed with Native residents over land use.

A key figure was Hungry Bill (real name Bah-Vanda-Sada), a Timbisha Shoshone leader who filed a homestead claim in 1907 on 160 acres in upper Johnson Canyon, planting orchards with apples, figs, and grapes using traditional irrigation. He never received the patent due to bureaucratic hurdles, but his family maintained the ranch into the 1920s, producing crops amid the desert. Mining activity surged in the early 1900s, with gold, silver, and talc claims; prospectors and Natives alike filed claims, extracting minerals from tunnels and open pits. Operations were small-scale due to isolation, peaking during World War eras for strategic minerals like talc, but declined by mid-century as deposits dwindled.

Today, remnants include Hungry Bill’s stone walls, fruit trees, and mining ruins, preserved as cultural sites. The Timbisha gained federal recognition and land rights in the 1980s-2000s, including areas near Furnace Creek, marking a reclamation of ancestral lands.

Broader History of Death Valley National Park

Death Valley’s human history dates back over 10,000 years, with Native American groups like the Timbisha Shoshone inhabiting the region since at least 1000 CE, adapting to its extremes through migratory patterns and using resources like mesquite pods and pinyon nuts. European-American exploration began infamously in 1849, when the “Lost ’49ers”—a group of gold rush pioneers—became trapped en route to California, enduring hardships that inspired the name “Death Valley” despite most surviving.

Mining booms defined the late 19th and early 20th centuries: borax extraction in the 1880s (famous for 20-mule teams), gold and silver rushes around 1900 (birthing ghost towns like Rhyolite and Skidoo), and later talc, lead, and tungsten mining. Tourism emerged in the 1920s with resorts like Furnace Creek Inn. In 1933, President Herbert Hoover designated it a national monument to protect against unchecked exploitation, with the Civilian Conservation Corps building roads and facilities in the 1930s. Expanded dramatically under the 1994 California Desert Protection Act, it became the largest national park in the contiguous U.S., spanning 3.4 million acres.

The park now draws over a million visitors annually for its geologic wonders—like Badwater Basin (-282 feet, North America’s lowest point) and record heat (134°F in 1913)—while addressing modern challenges such as climate change, flash floods, and cultural preservation.

Pleasant Canyon

The hottest place on earth, Death Valley National Park is on the order with California and Nevada
The hottest place on earth, Death Valley National Park is on the order with California and Nevada

The Panamint Mountains, forming the western boundary of Death Valley National Park in California, offer some of the most rugged and scenic off-road and hiking adventures in the region. Among the standout routes is the Pleasant Canyon to South Park Canyon loop, a challenging trail that combines steep ascents, narrow shelf roads, and stunning views of the surrounding valleys and peaks. This trail is primarily an OHV (Off-Highway Vehicle) route but can also be hiked in sections, though it’s demanding due to its length and terrain. It’s managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and borders Death Valley National Park, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles for full traversal. Always check for permits, road closures, and weather conditions before heading out, as the area is prone to flash floods and rockslides.

Trail Overview

  • Route Description: The loop typically starts near the ghost town of Ballarat in Panamint Valley (accessible via Wingate Road off Trona-Wildrose Road). From there, Pleasant Canyon ascends eastward through a narrow, rocky canyon with waterfalls (often dry), old mining ruins, and dense vegetation in lower sections. The trail climbs steeply to Rogers Pass at the crest of the Panamints, offering panoramic views of Butte Valley to the east. From the pass, the route descends via South Park Canyon, which features more open terrain, wildflower meadows in spring, and challenging “stair-step” rock ledges before looping back toward Ballarat or connecting to other backcountry roads. The full loop is counterclockwise for easier navigation, but it can be done out-and-back via either canyon for shorter trips.
  • Length: Approximately 28 miles for the full loop; allow at least 6-8 hours by vehicle or multiple days for hiking/backpacking.
  • Difficulty: Moderate to difficult (rated 3 out of 5 on many OHV scales). Most sections are easy to moderate with high-clearance 4WD, but steep, narrow shelf roads and rocky obstacles require low-range gears and experienced drivers. Hiking portions are strenuous due to loose rock, water crossings, and exposure. Not recommended for stock vehicles without modifications or beginners.
  • Elevation Gain: Starts around 1,600 feet in Panamint Valley and peaks at Rogers Pass (6,430 feet), for a net gain of about 4,800 feet. Expect dramatic drops on the descent.
  • Best Time to Visit: Fall through spring (October to May) to avoid extreme heat; summers can exceed 100°F (38°C) with no shade. Wildflowers bloom in wet springs, enhancing the scenery. Winter may bring snow at higher elevations, making the trail impassable.
  • Highlights and Features: Abundant mining history with remnants of cabins, mills, and shafts from the 19th century. Wildlife includes bighorn sheep, desert tortoises, and birds of prey. Scenic overlooks provide views of Telescope Peak (11,049 feet, the highest in the Panamints) and distant Sierra Nevada mountains. Camping is available at dispersed sites like Chicken Rock or Clair Camp, but pack out all waste and follow Leave No Trace principles.

Current Conditions (as of August 2025)

Based on available reports, the trail remains open but is susceptible to damage from storms, with potential washouts in steep sections of both canyons. Rockslides and erosion are common, especially after heavy rains—repairs are typically made promptly by BLM, but always verify status via the Ridgecrest BLM Field Office or apps like onX Offroad. No major closures were noted in early 2025 searches, but users report the “stair-step” obstacle in South Park Canyon as particularly tricky, requiring spotters for vehicles. Water may flow in Pleasant Canyon’s lower waterfalls during wet seasons, adding to the challenge. For hikers, the trail is dry with no reliable water sources—carry at least 1 gallon per person per day. Recent user feedback emphasizes the need for high-clearance vehicles and airing down tires for better traction.

If planning a trip, cross-reference with Death Valley National Park updates, as portions border the park, and consider guided tours for first-timers.

Trail Map

History of the Panamint Mountains Region

The Panamint Mountains have a rich and rugged history spanning millennia, shaped by Native American inhabitants, mining booms, and environmental extremes. Indigenous peoples, including the Timbisha Shoshone and Southern Paiute, have occupied the area for thousands of years, using the canyons as trade routes and seasonal hunting grounds. They adapted to the harsh desert with knowledge of water sources and edible plants, leaving behind petroglyphs and artifacts that hint at their deep connection to the land.

European exploration intensified in the mid-19th century during the California Gold Rush, but the Panamints’ remote location delayed major activity. Mining began slowly in the late 1850s or early 1860s, focusing on silver and lead, though the arid conditions and difficult access made operations challenging. The big break came in 1872-1873 when prospectors Richard C. Jacobs, William L. Kennedy, and Robert B. Stewart discovered rich silver veins in Surprise Canyon (near Pleasant Canyon), leading to the founding of Panamint City—a boomtown that swelled to over 2,000 residents by 1874. Infamously, some early miners were outlaws fleeing justice, earning the town a reputation as a “hard-boiled hellhole” with saloons, brothels, and vigilante justice. The Panamint Mining District formed in 1873, and by the mid-1870s, mills processed ore hauled by mule teams. However, flash floods in 1876 destroyed much of the infrastructure, and declining silver prices led to the town’s abandonment by the 1880s, leaving it a ghost town accessible via nearby Surprise Canyon Trail.

Sporadic mining revived in the early 20th century, including operations in the 1920s, but never matched the initial frenzy. The region also served as outlaw hideouts and later military testing grounds during World War II. Today, the Panamints are protected within Death Valley National Park (established 1994), preserving ruins like those in Pleasant and South Park Canyons as windows into this boom-and-bust era. The trails themselves follow old mining roads, a testament to the area’s enduring allure for adventurers.

Tips and Safety

  • Preparation: Download offline maps (e.g., from AllTrails or onX), carry extra fuel/water, and inform someone of your itinerary. Cell service is spotty.
  • Warnings: Flash floods are a real risk—avoid during rain. Watch for mining hazards like open shafts.
  • Access: Free entry, but OHV stickers required for vehicles in California.
  • Sustainability: Stick to established trails to protect fragile desert ecosystems.

This trail offers a perfect blend of adventure and history, but respect its challenges for a rewarding experience in one of California’s most dramatic landscapes.