Leadfield California – A Death Valley Ghost Town

Leadfield California is a ghost town located in Inyo County and Death Valley National Park and found on the Titus Canyon Trail. The town boom in 1925 and 1926, however, Leadfield is a town that was started on fraud and deceit.

Leadfield Gost Town, Death Valley, California
Leadfield Gost Town, Death Valley, California

According to Legend and an article in Desert Magazine, and shameless promoter C. C. Julian wandered into Titus Canyon and started blasting tunnels. He then discovered lead ore which he purchased and brought down from Tonopah, Nevada. Julian then produced maps and other promotional materials and found investors from the East coast. The town of Leadfield was born and died on the imagination of this one man.

Photograph of an exterior view of the Leadfield Hotel in Death Valley's Titus Canyon, [s.d.]. The hotel is a simple wooden structure with a slanted roof and a rectangular façade. The upper left corner of the façade is missing, revealing the interior of the building. Three large rectangular windows and two doors alternate across the front of the building. There are three people standing on a caved-in porch in front of the hotel. A large rocky mountain rises up behind the hotel. The hotel was part of C. C. Julian's Leadfield boomtown, the hey day of which was in 1925. Photo Credit “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.
Photograph of an exterior view of the Leadfield Hotel in Death Valley’s Titus Canyon, [s.d.]. The hotel is a simple wooden structure with a slanted roof and a rectangular façade. The upper left corner of the façade is missing, revealing the interior of the building. Three large rectangular windows and two doors alternate across the front of the building. There are three people standing on a caved-in porch in front of the hotel. A large rocky mountain rises up behind the hotel. The hotel was part of C. C. Julian’s Leadfield boomtown, the hey day of which was in 1925. Photo Credit “University of Southern California. Libraries” and “California Historical Society” as the source. Digitally reproduced by the USC Digital Library.

The truth of the tale is not quite as interesting or spectacular. According the the National Park Service, Leadfield ore was first worked in 1905. During the Bullfrog boom, which took place outside of Beatty, prospectors worked the land looking for the next big hit. In the fall of 1905, nine mine sights were identified and claimed by W. H. Seaman and Curtis Durnford. The ore from these sites was assayed in Rhyolite at $40 per ton. The men bought out a local consortium and the Death Valley Consolidated Mining Company was incorporated which released promotional material and sold shares for 2.5 cents each.

The mine and its ore did produce, however the Death Valley Consolidated Mining Company soon discovered that the expense of hauling the ore to Rhyolite and then the frieght costs to ship the material to smelters further off caused the ore to be not profitable. After six months of operation the Death Valley Colisidated Mining Company disappeared.

C. C. Julian
C. C. Julian

Despite early failures, in March of 1924 three prospectors wandered into the canyon and staked several claims. Ben Chambers, L. Christensen and Frank Metts worked their claims of lead ore for over one year before selling the claims to John Salsberry. Mr. Salsberry saw enough promise to form the Western Lead Mines Company and started to raise capital via stock sales at $0.10 per share. By the end of 1925, the Western Lead Mines Company was working 50 claims in the valley and soon began in invest in infastructure in the form of a compressor plant. A long steep road was constructed for LeadField to the Beatty Highway.

In early 1926, the Western Lead Mines Company build a boarding house and piped in water from a nearby spring. The town of Leadfield was named officially January 30th, 1926. Stock from the Western Lead Mines Company went on sale in January and within a 24 hour period, 40,000 share of stock were sold at $1.57 per share.

In February 1926 it became known to the public that C. C. Julian purchase shares and was now President of Western Lead Mines Company. Almost immediately the California State Corporation Commission began an investigation into the stock sale because a permit was not granted for the stock sale. The promoter went to work, along with several other mine operations, raise interest and money for the town. City plans were filed with Inyo County, however the spectre of investigation loomed.

Julian at the Western Lead Mine located in Leadfield, California - Photo Los Angeles Times
Julian at the Western Lead Mine located in Leadfield, California – Photo Los Angeles Times

Despite the arrival of a post office, investment into the location, and hundreds of feet of tunnel, C. C. Julian was ordered to cease sale of stock by the California State Corporation Commission. Around the same time, the primary tunnel of the Western Lead Mines Company penetrated to the ledge which experts predicted the highest quality ore. This ore was assayed at 2% and far too low for profit considered freight costs.

"The Last Days of C. C. Julian," Los Angeles Times, 29 Sept. 1935
“The Last Days of C. C. Julian,” Los Angeles Times, 29 Sept. 1935

Leadfield and the surrounding mines where gone months later. Mr. Julian was blamed despite the facts that he did not start the venture, there was ore at the location, and he invested money and time towards the venture. Once his Leadfield venture faltered, he moved onto to Oklahoma and was caught up in yet another scam. Julian later fled the country for Shanghai in March of 1933 m where he committed suicide in 1923 after several more failed schemes. Julian was buried in a beggers coffin and his funeral was attended by nine people.

Mr. Julian is responsible for the road through Titus Canyon, which many is a favorite route of visitors every year.

Leadfield Sign, Death Valley, California
Leadfield Sign, Death Valley, California

For a detailed history, the NPS offers a great article.

Leadfield Town Summary

NameLeadfield
LocationInyo County, Death Valley, California
Latitude, Longitude36.8466107,-117.0592307
GNIS1658952
Elevation4000 feet
Newspaper Leadfield Chronicle ( 192?-19?? )
National Register of Historic Places75000221

Further Reading

Leadfield Map

Resources

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Photo by James L Rathbun.

Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy.  The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year.  The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions.  In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.

The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails.  There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.

The California Poppy the state flower of California.
The California Poppy the state flower of California. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom.  The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements.  The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.

A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies.  Photo by James L Rathbun.
A Davy Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies. Photo by James L Rathbun.

The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map

Racetrack Valley

TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.
TeaKettle Junction lets you know you are starting to get close to the Racetrack.

Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc…  Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.

Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.
Looking north from the Lippincott Mine towards the Racetrack off in the distance.

The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…

Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.

As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.

Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.

The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.
The Racetrack Playa of Death Valley.

As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.

The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.

Jeeps and Labradors are not allowed on the playa!

To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.

The Racing stones.
The Racing stones.

At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.

Every racetrack needs a grandstand.
Every racetrack needs a grandstand.

Notoriety

On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.

Racetrack Valley Trail Map

References

The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA

The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.

The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Formation of the Standard Company

The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.

Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill

The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.

Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA.  Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. 
 Photograph by James L Rathbun
Looking up at the trestle bridge which is used to haul gold ore into the Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Two large mortar boxes are visible in the foreground. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Technical Details

Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.

Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.

The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away.  Photograph by James L Rathbun
The now quiet stamps of the Standard Mill in Blodie, CA could be heard from four miles away. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.

Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth

The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.

Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots.  Standard Mill, Bodie,
Ore entering into the the smelting room at the left in the form of 400lb ingots. Standard Mill, Bodie,

Challenges and Decline

All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.
All the mining and milling activities of the Standard Mining Co., came to their conclusion with the pouring of a bullion bar in the smelting room.

Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.

Preservation and Historical Significance

Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.

The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie.  Photography by James L Rathbun
The Hoover House served as housing for the Director of Operations of the Standard Mill in Bodie. Photography by James L Rathbun

Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.

The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.

The Standard Mill Map

More Standard Mill Photographs

Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus helleri)

Crotalus helleri is a venomous pit viper species commonly known as the Southern Pacific rattlesnake. It is part of the family Viperidae, which includes venomous snakes known for their long, hinged fangs that allow them to deliver venom deep into their prey.

The Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus helleri)   hiding under a granite boulder in Bid Bear, California.
The Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus helleri) hiding under a granite boulder in Bid Bear, California.

Description

Crotalus helleri typically ranges from 60 to 120 centimeters (2 to 4 feet) in length, although some individuals can grow larger. The snake exhibits a variety of color patterns depending on its geographical location. Common colors include brown, olive, gray, and occasionally greenish tones. The body is marked with dark, diamond-shaped blotches running along the length of its back, often bordered by lighter scales. These blotches may be less defined in older individuals. The snake’s head is triangular with a distinct neck, and it has a characteristic rattle at the end of its tail, which it uses as a warning signal.

Distribution and Habitat

Crotalus helleri is primarily found in Southern California, extending into Baja California, Mexico. Its range includes a variety of habitats such as coastal sage scrub, chaparral, grasslands, woodlands, and deserts. The snake is adaptable and can be found at elevations from sea level to over 2,000 meters (6,600 feet).

Behavior

This species is generally diurnal in the cooler months and becomes more nocturnal during the warmer summer months to avoid the heat. Crotalus helleri is a sit-and-wait predator, typically ambushing its prey, which includes small mammals, birds, lizards, and amphibians. The snake’s heat-sensing pit organs, located between the eyes and nostrils, allow it to detect warm-blooded prey even in total darkness.

Reproduction

Crotalus helleri is ovoviviparous, meaning that the females give birth to live young rather than laying eggs. Mating occurs in the spring, and after a gestation period of about 5 to 6 months, the female gives birth to a litter of 4 to 12 young, usually in late summer or early fall. The newborn snakes are independent from birth and are capable of hunting and defending themselves immediately.

Venom

The venom of Crotalus helleri is highly toxic and is composed of a mixture of hemotoxins, neurotoxins, and myotoxins. This potent combination can cause significant tissue damage, disrupt blood clotting, and lead to paralysis. Envenomation in humans requires immediate medical attention, as the venom can be life-threatening if untreated. Antivenom is effective, but the severity of the bite varies depending on the amount of venom injected.

Conservation Status

As of now, Crotalus helleri is not listed as endangered or threatened. However, like many species, it faces threats from habitat destruction, human encroachment, and intentional killing due to its venomous nature. Conservation efforts focus on habitat preservation and public education to reduce unnecessary killings.

Ecological Role

Crotalus helleri plays a crucial role in its ecosystem as both predator and prey. As a predator, it helps control the populations of small mammals and other prey species, which in turn influences the population dynamics of these animals. As prey, it provides food for larger predators such as hawks, eagles, and some mammalian carnivores.

Human Interaction

Encounters between humans and Crotalus helleri are relatively common in Southern California, especially in areas where urban development encroaches on natural habitats. While the snake is generally not aggressive and prefers to avoid confrontation, it will defend itself if threatened. Public education on rattlesnake behavior and safety is essential to minimize negative interactions and ensure the safety of both humans and snakes.

Taxonomy and Classification

  • Kingdom: Animalia
  • Phylum: Chordata
  • Class: Reptilia
  • Order: Squamata
  • Family: Viperidae
  • Genus: Crotalus
  • Species: Crotalus helleri

Conclusion

Crotalus helleri is a fascinating and important species within its range. Understanding its biology, behavior, and ecological role is essential for promoting coexistence between humans and wildlife in regions where this rattlesnake is found. Conservation efforts should focus on habitat protection and educating the public about the importance of this species in maintaining ecological balance.