Tag: California

California, located on the west coast of the United States, is renowned for its diverse landscapes, vibrant culture, and significant economic influence. From the sun-kissed beaches of Southern California to the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains, the state offers a range of natural beauty. The state is home to iconic cities like Los Angeles, known for Hollywood and the entertainment industry, and San Francisco, famous for its tech innovation and the Golden Gate Bridge. The state’s economy is one of the largest in the world, driven by sectors such as technology, agriculture, entertainment, and tourism. With its rich cultural diversity and pioneering spirit, California continues to be a land of opportunity and innovation.

Davy Gilia (Gilia latiflora)

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A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.
A Davey Gilia stalk poking up between the California Poppies in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve.

Davy Gilia (Gilia latiflora) also known as Hollyleaf gilia or broad-flowered gilia is a flowering plant commonly found in the open flats or sandy areas and can carpet the western Mojave Desert, Joshua Tree woodlands and endemic throughout California.  This wild flower grows at 2500 to 4000 feet in elevation and grows to reach about 18 inches in height.

The plant features a tiny, small, five leafed flower about one inch in diameter. The flower is is purple in color and features a white throat to offer a beautiful display. The purple flowers are known to bloom between March and May.

Typically a Southern California Flower, the Davy Gilia has been observed in southern Nevada in the areas surrounding Rhyolite and Beatty, Nevada.

This Davy Gilia was photographed in the Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve and the small purple flower was a highlight in the lush canvas of deep golden colored, California Poppies. It was common for a taller gilia flower to explode above the shorter California Poppies.

The California Poppy was the reason from my trip, however the gilia was the purple accent which made my trip.

Beavertail Prickly Pear (opuntia basilaris)

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The Beavertail Prickly Pear cactus (opuntia basilaris) is very common in the desert south west, and would go most of the year most of the year without a second glance.  However this species of cactus exemplifies the best of what the desert has to offer in one symbol.

Beavertail Prickly Pear. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Beavertail Prickly Pear. Photograph by James L Rathbun

The Beavertail Prickly Pear grows in clumps, low to the ground and grows horizontally rather than vertically like the iconic saguaro.  The dull greenish grey leaves grows feature a complete lack of spines and a shaped which gives the plant it’s name.  The pads of this cactus lake the spines traditionally associated with cactus, but rather the pads are covered with minuscule, gray-blue bristles which feature barbed tips which easily puncture human skin.

Each spring the cactus puts on a display of wild flowers which is amazing to behold in the arid desert environments.  Typically starting the March, each cactus pad my put out several shoots which Colosseum in a burst of colors, most commonly a vibrant pink but also known to be yellow, white or rose colored.

Beavertail Cactus found off the Mormon Wells Road, Las Vegas, Nevada
Beavertail Cactus found off the Mormon Well Road, Las Vegas, Nevada

The cactus typically grows in  rocky , sandy plains, valleys, washes & canyons  all over Arizona, California, Nevada, Utah and Northern Mexico.

Camp Phallus – New York Mountains

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Located in Caruther’s Canyons of the New York Mountains, Camp Phallus is named for a “unique” rock formation visible from the campsite. The campsite offers a central base camp location to the Old Mojave Road and the higher elevations may offer a nice break from the heat in the warmer months. We drove down to Goffs on our trip.

Our campsite from a distance in Caruthers Canyon
Our campsite from a distance in Caruthers Canyon

 This is a primitive site, no posted sights, just a series of short trails to isolated sites, each of which can support several vehicles. All of the sites that I have seen appear to be quite large and capable of several vehicles. One of the campsites offers table top bench under a large tree which was an Eagle Scout project. Good work!

There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon
There are no restrooms at Camp Phallus in Caruthers Canyon

Camp Phallus beautiful place to camp and it offers cooler temperatures during to summer months due to its 5500 ft of elevation. There was deer in the area, and when we went in March, it was quite cold at this higher elevation. A nice campfire took the chill off.

My son and I waking up in the morning
My son and I waking up in the morning

This was my sons first camping trip and he did great. He loves to go camping despite the fact he threw a high temperature at night and we needed to head home early. The camp ground was clean, remote and vacant and we vowed to return again.

Camp Rock Springs

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A small oasis and valuable water supply along the Old Mojave Road, Camp Rock Springs was the site of a military outpost established on December 30, 1866.  There are few remains or ruins of the old dusty outpost but a plaque to remind the visitors that men of the U.S. Army served at this remote desert post.

Camp Rock Springs, Old Mojave Road
Camp Rock Springs, Old Mojave Road

Camp Rock Springs

To the United States Soldiers of Camp

Rock Springs— who guarded the U.S. Mail.

No Glory there nor much chance for

military fame, but true patriots and heroes

were they, to submit to such privations–

Yet there are the nurseries of the army,

and from such hard schools we graduated

a grant and Sherman, Sheridan and Thomas.

General James F. Rusling USA

Bill Holcomb Chapter

E. Clampus Vitus

The sentiment of General Rusling is poignant, and the soldiers who guarded this post did so without notice from the outside world.  Few people at the time, yet alone now even knew this place existed.  Beginning in 1860 a 20 man patrol, with one officer would patrol between Camp Rock Springs and Fort Mojave to the East, twice per month, every month, to maintain and service the Mojave Road.

In 1863, a number of complaints were filed with the army recording Indian sightings and activity including 300 – 400 encamped about 30 miles to the south.  Additionally there were complaints the Native Americans were thought to be steeling cattle, however these complaints were cancelled a few days later.  If nothing else, this would seem to indicate a level of contempt and distrust towards the native population regardless, these complaints and issues kept the army in the Mojave desert busy.

Rock Springs
Rock Springs

In 1865, two men started a mining operation at the Rock Springs location.  While the two men were away, their buildings burnt and their supplies stolen.  The two men immediately became very vocal in their complaints that the government was developing the area for the government while not protective the investment of the miners.  Soon after the miners fled the area, Camp Rock Springs became and official post of the army, and is described as  “On the desert . . . very disagreeable place for the troops” in a government report.

The camp was quickly built using local building materials, however the high cost of operating the camp and the scarcity of water, despite the spring, caused the camp to close in 1868.  The duties of Camp Rock were taken over by the Camp at Marl Springs.

Camp Rock Springs
Camp Rock Springs

The site now does still have some water, and is a small oasis in the desert.  The spring does not travel more than 50 feet into the canyon before the desert claims it again.  The Camp, like the soldiers is long gone.

Government Holes

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The tale of the the Old Mojave Road is the story of water, the more important resource in the desert.  Along the Old Mojave Road trail is the Government Holes water stop.  Long abandoned, the site still contains a wind mill, a corral and a few watering holes.  This quiet remote location was even the site of a gunfight.

Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.
Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.

The story of the American West is the story ongoing and continued conflicts between the Native Americans and settlers and this holds was also true for the Mojave desert.  In 1858 the Mohave tribe attack various wagon trains, which prompted a military response from the U.S. Government. Major William Hoffman and over 600 men were dispatched to the Colorado River which is the  homeland of the Mohave  Tribe.  Major Hoffman demand the Mohave surrender to which the tribe relented.  Major Hoffman next established a post on the eastern bank of the Colorado River which developed into Fort Mojave.  To support this new fort, regular supply wagon trains from Los Angeles were required to travel east through the Mojave Desert until the Civil War.  Improvements to the wagon trail included a water stop which became known as Government Holes.

By the 1870s, steamboats on the Colorado supplied Fort Mojave and the Mojave Road became a highway for miners, prospectors, and ranchers.  In 1883 the Southern Pacific / Atlantic & Pacific Railroad took up the majority of traffic.  Throughout the 1800’s the Mojave was an open range, and cattle and livestock grazing was a source of money and food.  As with many human endeavors, smaller operations consolidate into larger companies.  These companies worked to claim ownership of land and most importantly water rights.

Homesteaders were in conflict with the Cattle Companies, when the homesteaders stake claims on the best grazing territory.  Homesteaders crops were trampled by the cattle, and the cattle companies denied the homesteaders access to water.  The homesteaders responded by taking their portion of beef from the herd.  All of this game to a head when a gun fight broke out between Matt Burts and J. W. “Bill” Robinson on November 8th, 1925.  Both men died in the fight, and may be one of the last of the “old west” gunfights and the plot of a lot of Hollywood movies.

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