Mojave National Preserve

Mojave National Preserve is a vast and rugged protected area in the Mojave Desert of southeastern California, managed by the National Park Service. It spans approximately 1.6 million acres (about 1,542,776 acres or 6,243 km²), making it the third-largest unit in the National Park System in the contiguous United States and the largest national preserve.

Founding and History

Congress established the preserve on October 31, 1994, through the California Desert Protection Act. This legislation also elevated Joshua Tree and Death Valley to national park status and created numerous wilderness areas. Prior to this, parts of the area were designated as the East Mojave National Scenic Area under BLM management. It was designated a preserve (rather than a full national park) to allow continued activities like hunting and grazing.

The region has a deep human history spanning over 10,000 years. Indigenous groups, including the Mojave, Chemehuevi, and Paiute peoples, inhabited and traveled the area, using corridors for trade and sustenance from plants like mesquite and agave, and hunting game. Spanish explorer Father Francisco Garcés crossed it in 1776, followed by others like Jedediah Smith (1826) and John C. Frémont (1844). The Mojave Road became a key route.

Borders and Geography

The preserve lies in San Bernardino County, California, between Interstate 15 (to the north) and Interstate 40 (to the south), extending eastward toward the Nevada border. It is roughly 150 miles northeast of Palm Springs and positioned between the Los Angeles and Las Vegas metropolitan areas.

Geographically diverse, it features:

• Towering Kelso Dunes (which can “boom” or sing when disturbed).
• Volcanic features like cinder cones and lava flows.
• The symmetrical Cima Dome with one of the world’s largest Joshua tree forests.
• Mountain ranges (e.g., Providence, Clark, and New York Mountains).
• Mesas, canyons, dry lake beds, and limestone caverns (like Mitchell Caverns in the adjacent state recreation area).

Elevations range from about 800 feet near Baker to over 7,900 feet at Clark Mountain. It includes transitional elements of the Mojave, Great Basin, and Sonoran deserts.

Biomes and Species

The preserve encompasses a mosaic of desert habitats within the broader Mojave Desert biome (deserts and xeric shrublands). It supports remarkable biodiversity despite the arid conditions, with rainfall varying from 4–14 inches annually and extreme temperature swings.

Key flora includes the iconic Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia), dense forests on Cima Dome, various cacti, yuccas, creosote bush, and spring wildflower blooms (e.g., California poppies). There are hundreds of plant species.

Wildlife includes:

• Mammals: desert bighorn sheep, bobcats, mountain lions, black-tailed jackrabbits, coyotes.
• Reptiles: desert tortoise (threatened species), various lizards and snakes.
• Birds: golden eagles, roadrunners, and hundreds of other species (resident and migratory).
• Other notable species: Mojave tui chub (endemic fish in springs).

It provides critical habitat connectivity in the region.

History of Military, Mining, and Railroads

Military: The U.S. Army established outposts in the 1860s along the Mojave Road to protect mail routes and travelers from conflicts with Native American tribes. Sites like Fort Piute (near Piute Spring) date to this era. In the 20th century, the area saw use related to World War II training and other activities; remnants of military outposts and rock-walled structures remain. The broader Mojave region continues as an important military training area.

Mining: Mining has a long history, intensified by the 1849 Gold Rush and the General Mining Law of 1872. Operations targeted gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, tungsten, and zinc. Notable sites include the Bonanza King silver mine (discovered 1883 in the Providence Mountains) and Kaiser Steel’s Vulcan Mine (1940s), which produced over two million tons of iron ore for WWII Liberty ships. Many abandoned mines and claims exist; over 15,000 claims were active at establishment. Limited mining continues under grandfathered rights.

Railroads: Railroads were crucial for transportation and development. The Union Pacific Railroad (and predecessors) built lines through the area in the early 20th century. The Kelso Depot (built 1923–1924) served as a key stop for employees, offering food, lodging, and recreation; it is now the preserve’s main visitor center. Freight trains still operate, while passenger service ended in 1997. Earlier rail efforts supported mining and settlement.

The Mojave National Preserve blends spectacular natural beauty with layers of human history—from Indigenous stewardship to pioneer trails, mining booms, railroad eras, and modern conservation. It remains a place of discovery, with opportunities for hiking, scenic drives, and exploring remnants of the past while protecting fragile desert ecosystems. For the latest visitor information, check the official NPS website.

Points of Interest