Tag: Coconino County

Glen Canyon Dam

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Glen Canyon Dam is a concrete arch-gravity dam on the Colorado River in northern Arizona, near the town of Page (about 15 miles upstream from Lees Ferry and roughly 8 miles south of the Utah-Arizona border). It stands 710 feet high above bedrock (583 feet above the original riverbed), with a crest length of 1,560 feet. It forms Lake Powell, one of the largest reservoirs in the United States (capacity roughly 24–27 million acre-feet at full pool of about 3,700 feet elevation). The dam is a key unit of the Colorado River Storage Project (CRSP).

Glen Canyon Dam, Page, Arizona. Photo by James L Rathbun
Glen Canyon Dam, Page, Arizona. Photo by James L Rathbun

Origins and Why It Was Built

Interest in a dam in Glen Canyon dates to the early 20th century. U.S. Geological Survey hydrologist E.C. LaRue proposed a site as early as 1916–1921, initially more for flood control than long-term storage. Studies continued in the 1920s, but priority went to Hoover Dam (completed 1936) farther downstream.

The decisive driver was the 1922 Colorado River Compact, which apportioned the river’s waters roughly equally between the Upper Basin (Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, New Mexico) and Lower Basin (California, Arizona, Nevada), with measurement at Lees Ferry. The Upper Basin states needed large upstream storage to develop their share for irrigation, municipal, and industrial use without risking failure to meet delivery obligations to the Lower Basin during droughts. Without storage, Upper Basin development would be constrained because water would simply flow downstream to Hoover Dam/Lake Mead.

By the 1940s–1950s, rapid population and economic growth in the West intensified the need. The Bureau of Reclamation advanced the Colorado River Storage Project, a system of dams and reservoirs to regulate flow, store water for beneficial use, provide flood control, reclaim arid lands, and generate hydropower. Hydropower revenues were essential: they would repay construction costs and help finance other Upper Basin projects. Glen Canyon Dam was the centerpiece—the largest storage feature—providing the bulk of the system’s capacity to hold water during wet years for release in dry ones while guaranteeing Lower Basin deliveries.

Congress authorized the CRSP (including Glen Canyon Dam) on April 11, 1956. The project was never primarily a local irrigation scheme; its core purposes were basin-wide storage and power generation.

Site Selection

Engineers and geologists evaluated multiple sites in lower Glen Canyon from the 1920s through the late 1940s (intensive work 1946–1948). Key criteria included:

  • A large reservoir basin capable of holding an immense volume of water.
  • Strong, stable canyon walls and bedrock foundation able to support a high dam.
  • Proximity to quality aggregate (rock and sand) for concrete—available nearby on Wahweap Creek.
  • Economic feasibility and constructability.

An early favored site was about 4 miles upstream from Lees Ferry (which could have held more water), but the chosen site—roughly 15–16.5 miles upstream—was selected for superior foundation rock (Navajo Sandstone cliffs rising nearly vertically) and easier access to gravel deposits. The remote location presented challenges: no nearby rail, and a 200-mile drive to cross from one rim to the other. This necessitated new access roads and the Glen Canyon Bridge (a 1,271-foot steel-arch bridge completed 1959, then among the world’s highest).

The final site sits in a narrow gorge of sandstone and shale, ideal for an arch-gravity design that transfers load into the abutments.

Construction and Filling

Construction began almost immediately after authorization. On October 15, 1956, President Dwight D. Eisenhower triggered the first blast by remote control from the White House. The prime contract went to Merritt-Chapman & Scott in April 1957 (winning bid about $108 million). Work included diversion tunnels to reroute the river, deep excavation to bedrock (about 137 feet), and shaping the canyon walls.

Concrete placement started in June 1960 (first formal pour around June 16–17) and continued around the clock. The dam contains roughly 4.9 million cubic yards of concrete in the structure itself (over 5.3 million including the powerplant)—enough for a multi-lane highway from Phoenix to Chicago. It was built in large blocks and topped out on September 13, 1963, at 710 feet. About 18 workers died during construction. The remote site required creating the town of Page, Arizona, for the workforce.

The river was diverted; the last diversion tunnel was closed on March 13, 1963, and Lake Powell began filling. First power generation occurred in September 1964. First Lady Lady Bird Johnson dedicated the dam on September 22, 1966. Filling to capacity took until June 22, 1980 (about 17 years). Glen Canyon National Recreation Area was established in 1972.

Controversy

The dam was highly controversial. Early CRSP plans included dams at Echo Park and Split Mountain in Dinosaur National Monument. A major campaign by the Sierra Club (led by David Brower), Wilderness Society, and others successfully blocked those, framing them as a threat to national parks. In the political compromise, Glen Canyon Dam proceeded (and was made larger to compensate for lost storage). Many environmentalists later regretted the trade-off, viewing the flooding of Glen Canyon’s scenic, archaeological, and ecological treasures as a major loss—“the place no one knew.” Archaeological salvage projects documented sites before inundation. The dam also fundamentally altered the Colorado River’s flow, temperature, and sediment regime through the Grand Canyon, leading later to the 1992 Grand Canyon Protection Act and adaptive management programs.

Operations and Later History

Lake Powell stores water for Upper Basin use and regulated releases to the Lower Basin. The powerplant (eight generators, original rating ~1,320 MW) has produced billions of kilowatt-hours annually in good years, with revenues supporting CRSP operations, environmental programs, and repayment. Notable events include 1983 floods that damaged the spillways (requiring major repairs) and ongoing adaptive management for downstream ecosystems and recreation.

Current Struggles with Low Water

Prolonged drought, aridification linked to climate change (warmer temperatures, reduced snowpack efficiency, higher evaporation and soil absorption), and overallocation have sharply reduced inflows. Lake Powell has declined dramatically from full-pool levels last seen in the early 1980s.

As of late August 2026, the lake has set new record lows, hovering around 3,518 feet elevation—roughly 22–23% of live capacity and about 180+ feet below full pool. It sits only tens of feet above minimum power pool (3,490 feet), the level at which the penstocks lose adequate submergence and the turbines can no longer generate hydropower reliably. Dead pool (the point at which water can no longer be released by gravity through the outlets) is at approximately 3,370 feet.

Projections in 2026 have warned of potential drops toward or below minimum power pool in 2027 under continued dry conditions, with reduced generation already occurring (output has fallen substantially from historical peaks). Managers have implemented emergency measures: reduced releases from Glen Canyon, increased upstream releases (e.g., from Flaming Gorge), and operational adjustments under drought contingency plans and interim guidelines to protect elevations near or above ~3,500–3,525 feet. Below minimum power pool, releases shift solely to the smaller river outlet works (not designed for sustained primary use), raising concerns about capacity, reliability, sediment, and downstream water delivery. Recreation (marinas, boat ramps) has been heavily impacted, with many facilities unusable.

The situation threatens hydropower for roughly millions of customers in the West, water supplies for agriculture and cities in the Lower Basin, and the broader Colorado River system’s stability. It has prompted study of potential dam modifications for lower-level operations and underscores the original assumptions about hydrology that no longer fully hold. Lake Powell and Lake Mead together hold far less water than in earlier decades, highlighting the ongoing Colorado River crisis.

In summary, Glen Canyon Dam was engineered as a linchpin of 20th-century Western water development—securing Upper Basin rights, enabling growth, and generating power—chosen for its geology and storage potential after careful evaluation. Decades later, it faces the limits of that vision under a drier climate and strained allocation system.

Charles H. Spencer – Colorado Steamship

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The Charles H. Spencer was a sternwheel steamboat built in 1911–1912 for a short-lived gold-mining venture on the upper Colorado River near Lee’s Ferry, Arizona. It was the last steamboat constructed and operated for bulk transport on the Colorado, marking the end of nearly 50 years of commercial steamboating on the river.

Background and Construction

Charles Harvey Spencer (1872–1968), a prospector and mining promoter, arrived at Lee’s Ferry in 1910 seeking gold in the Chinle Formation shale. As managing director of the American Placer Corporation, he planned hydraulic mining and mercury amalgamation processing, which required coal to power boilers and equipment. A coal seam was located upriver in a side canyon of Warm Creek (roughly 40 miles by pack trail from Lee’s Ferry).

Spencer’s investors preferred a boat over mule trains for hauling coal. He commissioned the San Francisco firm of Schultze, Robertson, and Schultze (or Robertson–Schultz Co.; builders including James Robertson and Herman Rosenfelt) to design and build a shallow-draft sternwheeler suited for river work. Parts were manufactured in San Francisco, shipped by rail to Marysvale, Utah, then hauled by ox-cart to the mouth of Warm Creek, where the vessel was reassembled from a “knocked-down” hull and launched in February 1912. It was named for Spencer.

Specifications

Sources vary slightly on exact dimensions (plans vs. contemporary accounts and overall length including the wheel), but the vessel was a wooden-hulled, flat-bottomed sternwheeler with a hard chine, square stern, twin rudders, and hogging trusses for structural reinforcement under cargo loads:

  • Length: Hull about 70 feet (stem to sternpost); overall length commonly given as 85 feet 6 inches to 92.5 feet (including the 12-foot stern paddle wheel and guards).
  • Beam: 20–25 feet.
  • Draft: Shallow, 18–20 inches (designed for low water and sandbars).
  • Depth of hold: About 4 feet.
  • Power: ~100–110 hp marine boiler driving a 12-foot stern paddle wheel.
  • Capacity: Rated around 50–100 tons; in practice it averaged 5–6 tons of coal per trip.
  • Construction: Single-framed wooden hull, largely unpainted.

It was designed more for conditions like the Sacramento River than the sediment-laden, fluctuating Colorado with its shifting bars and currents.

Role on the Colorado River

The boat’s sole purpose was to haul coal from the Warm Creek mine downstream to the placer works at Lee’s Ferry to fuel the gold-extraction process. It made only a few runs in spring/summer 1912. Navigation proved difficult due to variable water levels, sandbars, and the need to work against the current. Crews had to learn the river’s quirks, and the vessel grounded at times. A frequently cited practical problem was that it burned a large portion (or nearly all) of the coal it could carry on a round trip, leaving little net delivery.

The mining operation itself failed quickly: the Chinle shale contained gold, but an unknown substance (later identified as the rare-earth element rhenium) clogged the amalgamators, so gold was lost in the tailings. By the end of summer 1912 the venture collapsed for lack of viable recovery and capital. The steamboat was tied up (docked/abandoned) just below Lee’s Ferry—about ¼ mile east of the ferry area—and never used again. It was the last vessel built for bulk cargo transport on the Colorado system.

Ultimate Fate

Abandoned after its brief service (accounts place final docking in 1912, with some sources noting abandonment formalized around 1914), the vessel sat at the bank. Driftwood accumulated, and high water later shifted it. It sank in shallow water—commonly dated to a 1921 flood (or between roughly 1915 and the late 1920s)—after sliding sideways and striking a boulder that punctured the hull. The superstructure was later stripped for lumber.

Today the remains (portions of the wooden hull and the marine boiler) lie in shallow water near the bank at Lee’s Ferry in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Arizona (visible at low water or from the nearby historic trail/Spencer Trail area). A historical marker notes the site. The wreck is one of the few archaeologically documented Colorado River steamboat remains and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places (as part of the Lee’s Ferry Historic District / related nomination, added 1989). It is a tangible remnant of early-20th-century placer mining attempts and the close of the steamboat era on the river.

In short, the Charles H. Spencer was an ambitious but ill-adapted tool for a failed gold scheme—technically a capable shallow-draft sternwheeler that simply arrived too late, on the wrong stretch of river, for a mining process that could not succeed commercially.

Horseshoe Bend

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Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop.

Horseshoe Bend is a stunning geological formation located on the Colorado River, just south of Page, Arizona. This iconic meander, carved over millennia by the river’s persistent flow, forms a dramatic, U-shaped loop that encircles a towering rock outcrop. Situated within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, it offers breathtaking views from a steep, 1,000-foot (300-meter) cliff overlooking the emerald-green waters below, framed by rugged, reddish desert cliffs. The overlook is accessible via a short, 1.5-mile round-trip hike from a parking area off U.S. Route 89, making it a popular destination for visitors to northern Arizona. The site is renowned for its striking beauty, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light enhances the vibrant colors of the canyon and river. Horseshoe Bend attracts photographers, nature enthusiasts, and tourists, drawing over two million visitors annually, though its popularity has led to increased management efforts to protect the fragile desert environment. Always stay on designated trails and respect safety barriers due to the sheer drop.

Horseshoe Bend, located near Page, Arizona, is a stunning example of a geological phenomenon known as a meander, where a river curves dramatically, creating a near-circular loop that resembles the shape of a horseshoe. This iconic feature along the Colorado River showcases the intricate interplay of geological processes, water flow, and time. Below is a detailed description of how rivers form bends like Horseshoe Bend, exploring the processes, conditions, and forces involved.

What is a Meander?

A meander is a sinuous, looping bend in a river’s course, often formed in relatively flat or gently sloping landscapes. Unlike straight river channels, which are rare in nature, meanders develop as a river seeks the path of least resistance across a landscape, eroding and depositing sediment in a dynamic process. Horseshoe Bend is an entrenched meander, meaning it is deeply incised into the bedrock, creating a dramatic, steep-walled canyon around the river’s curve.

Formation of Meanders

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend involves several key processes, driven by the interaction of water flow, sediment transport, and the geological characteristics of the landscape.

Initial River Flow and Instability

Rivers naturally develop small irregularities in their channels due to variations in the terrain, such as slight depressions, obstacles like rocks or vegetation, or differences in soil and rock resistance. These irregularities disrupt the river’s flow, causing water to move faster on one side of the channel than the other. This differential flow sets the stage for meander development:

  • Faster Flow on the Outside: Water moves more quickly along the outer edge of a developing bend due to centrifugal force, much like a car taking a curve. This faster flow erodes the outer bank, carving it away.
  • Slower Flow on the Inside: On the inner side of the bend, water slows down, allowing sediment to settle and form a depositional feature called a point bar.

This erosion on the outer bank and deposition on the inner bank amplify the bend over time, causing the river to curve more dramatically.

Feedback Loop of Erosion and Deposition

As the river continues to flow, the meander grows through a self-reinforcing feedback loop:

  • The faster-moving water on the outer bank erodes material, deepening and widening the curve.
  • The eroded sediment is carried downstream and deposited on the inner bank, where the flow is slower, building up the point bar.
  • This process causes the meander to migrate laterally across the floodplain, with the bend becoming more pronounced.

Role of Sediment and Flow Dynamics

The type and amount of sediment a river carries influence meander formation. Rivers with a high sediment load, like the Colorado River, can deposit significant material on point bars, which helps stabilize the inner curve. Meanwhile, the river’s velocity and volume determine its erosive power. Seasonal variations, such as snowmelt or heavy rains, can increase the river’s flow, accelerating erosion and reshaping the meander.

Entrenched Meanders and Horseshoe Bend

The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend
The Colorado River Gorge cuts into the bedrock at the Horseshow Bend

Horseshoe Bend is not a typical meander found on a flat floodplain but an entrenched meander, which forms when a river cuts deeply into bedrock. This process is particularly pronounced in the Colorado Plateau, where Horseshoe Bend is located. Here’s how it happens:

Uplift of the Colorado Plateau

The Colorado Plateau, a region of relatively flat-lying sedimentary rocks, has been uplifted over millions of years due to tectonic forces. As the plateau rose, the Colorado River, which was already flowing across the region, began to incise downward into the bedrock to maintain its course. This process is called downcutting.

Preservation of Meander Shape

As the river cut downward, it retained the sinuous meander pattern it had developed on a flatter landscape millions of years ago. Instead of eroding laterally across a floodplain (as meanders typically do), the river eroded vertically into the resistant sandstone of the Navajo Formation, creating steep canyon walls. This results in an entrenched meander, where the river’s looping path is preserved but now confined within a deep, narrow canyon.

Geological Context of Horseshoe Bend

At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River has carved a canyon approximately 1,000 feet (300 meters) deep into the Glen Canyon Group, primarily composed of Navajo Sandstone. The river’s path forms a near-perfect U-shape, with the water flowing around a central rock promontory. The steep, vertical walls of the canyon highlight the river’s erosive power and the resistance of the surrounding rock, which prevents significant lateral migration of the meander.

Specific Features of Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend’s dramatic appearance is the result of several unique factors:

  • Geological Setting: The Navajo Sandstone, a thick layer of cross-bedded sandstone formed from ancient desert dunes, is highly resistant to erosion. This resistance allows the canyon walls to remain steep and well-defined, enhancing the visual impact of the bend.
  • River Dynamics: The Colorado River carries a significant sediment load, including sand and gravel, which aids in both erosion (by scouring the bedrock) and deposition (building point bars). The river’s high flow during spring snowmelt or after heavy rains increases its erosive capacity.
  • Time Scale: The formation of Horseshoe Bend has taken millions of years. The Colorado River began incising into the Colorado Plateau around 5–6 million years ago, following regional uplift. The meander itself likely began forming much earlier, when the river flowed across a flatter landscape, and was later entrenched as the plateau rose.

Ongoing Evolution of Meanders

Meanders like Horseshoe Bend are not static; they continue to evolve over time:

  • Meander Migration: Although entrenched meanders are constrained by bedrock, slow lateral erosion can still occur, causing the bend to shift slightly over geological time.
  • Neck Cutoff: In some cases, a meander can become so tight that the river erodes through the narrow neck of land separating two parts of the loop, forming a cutoff and abandoning the meander as an oxbow lake. However, at Horseshoe Bend, the resistant bedrock makes a cutoff unlikely in the near future.
  • Canyon Deepening: The Colorado River continues to downcut, deepening the canyon and making the walls of Horseshoe Bend even more dramatic over time.

Environmental and Human Factors

  • Climate and Water Flow: The arid climate of northern Arizona limits vegetation, which reduces bank stabilization and allows the river to erode the bedrock more freely. Human interventions, such as the construction of Glen Canyon Dam upstream, have altered the Colorado River’s flow and sediment transport, potentially affecting the rate of erosion at Horseshoe Bend.
  • Tourism and Preservation: Horseshoe Bend is a popular tourist destination, attracting millions of visitors annually. The overlook, perched 4,200 feet above sea level, offers a breathtaking view of the 270-degree river bend below. Efforts to manage tourism, such as designated trails and parking areas, help protect the fragile desert environment and prevent erosion of the canyon rim.

Why Horseshoe Bend is Unique

Horseshoe Bend stands out due to its combination of geological, hydrological, and aesthetic factors:

  • Scale and Symmetry: The near-perfect U-shape and the sheer scale of the canyon (1,000 feet deep and 0.6 miles wide at the bend) make it visually striking.
  • Contrast: The emerald-green waters of the Colorado River contrast vividly with the red and orange hues of the Navajo Sandstone, creating a photogenic landscape.
  • Geological Story: Horseshoe Bend tells a story of millions of years of uplift, erosion, and river dynamics, offering a window into the geological history of the Colorado Plateau.

Conclusion

The formation of river bends like Horseshoe Bend is a testament to the power of water, time, and geological processes. Starting as subtle curves in a river’s path, meanders grow through the interplay of erosion and deposition, amplified by the river’s flow and the landscape’s characteristics. At Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River’s entrenched meander, carved into resistant Navajo Sandstone, creates a dramatic and iconic feature. This natural wonder continues to evolve, shaped by the relentless flow of the river and the geological forces of the Colorado Plateau, captivating visitors with its beauty and offering geologists a striking example of the Earth’s dynamic processes.

Lees Ferry Colorado River Crossing

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Lees Ferry, a remote site along the Colorado River in northern Arizona, holds a pivotal place in American history as a vital crossing point, a gateway to exploration, and a launchpad for modern river running. Situated at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, just downstream from Glen Canyon and upstream from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry has served as a geographic and cultural hinge for centuries, bridging Native American trails, Mormon settlement, and modern adventure.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Early History and Native American Presence

Long before European settlers arrived, the area around Lees Ferry was a crossing point for Native American tribes, including the Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo, and Paiute. The site’s relatively calm waters and accessible riverbanks made it a natural ford for foot traffic and trade routes across the rugged Colorado Plateau. Archaeological evidence suggests human activity in the region dating back thousands of years, with petroglyphs and artifacts attesting to its significance.

The Colorado River, however, was a formidable barrier, with its steep canyons and turbulent rapids. Lees Ferry stood out as one of the few locations where the river could be crossed safely, earning it a place in the region’s cultural and economic landscape.

John D. Lee and the Mormon Era

John D Lee
John D Lee

Lees Ferry derives its name from John Doyle Lee, a prominent and controversial figure in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church). Born in 1812, Lee was a devout Mormon pioneer who played a significant role in the church’s westward expansion. In 1871, following his excommunication for his involvement in the 1857 Mountain Meadows Massacre, Lee was sent by church leader Brigham Young to establish a ferry service at the site to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona.

Lee arrived with two of his wives, Emma and Ann, and several children, building a homestead known as Lonely Dell near the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers. In 1872, he constructed a rudimentary ferry—a flatboat guided by ropes—capable of carrying wagons, livestock, and people across the river. The ferry became a critical link on the “Honeymoon Trail,” a route used by Mormon couples traveling from Arizona settlements to the temple in St. George, Utah, for marriage ceremonies. Lee operated the ferry until his arrest in 1874 for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was executed in 1877, but his wife Emma continued running the ferry until 1879.

The ferry operation passed through several hands, including the LDS Church and private operators, until 1928, when it was rendered obsolete by the completion of the Navajo Bridge, located a few miles downstream. The bridge, opened in 1929, provided a more reliable crossing, marking the end of the ferry’s practical necessity.

Exploration and Scientific Significance

Lees Ferry’s strategic location made it a key staging point for early exploration of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist, launched his historic expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers from Green River, Wyoming, passing through Lees Ferry en route to the Grand Canyon. Powell’s 1871–1872 expedition again used the site as a critical resupply point, cementing its role in the mapping and scientific study of the American Southwest.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

The U.S. Geological Survey later designated Lees Ferry as the official division point between the Upper and Lower Colorado River Basins, a demarcation still used in water management today. The site’s consistent flow and accessibility made it ideal for gauging stations, which have monitored the river’s flow since the early 20th century, providing critical data for dam construction and water allocation in the arid West.

The Rise of River Running

In the 20th century, Lees Ferry transformed into the primary launch point for recreational and commercial river trips through the Grand Canyon. Its gentle waters and proximity to Marble Canyon make it an ideal starting point for navigating the Grand Canyon’s rapids. The site gained fame in the 1920s during the ill-fated honeymoon journey of Glen and Bessie Hyde, who launched their homemade scow from Lees Ferry in 1928, only to vanish downstream, leaving behind one of the canyon’s enduring mysteries.

By the mid-20th century, river running grew in popularity, spurred by figures like Norman Nevills, who pioneered commercial rafting trips, and Georgie Clark, who became a legendary river guide. Today, Lees Ferry is the starting point for thousands of annual river trips, ranging from half-day floats to multi-week expeditions through the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service tightly regulates these trips, with permits highly sought after due to the area’s scenic beauty and challenging rapids.

Lees Ferry Today

Now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is a designated historic site, with remnants of its past preserved for visitors. Lonely Dell, the original homestead, includes restored buildings, an orchard, and a small cemetery, offering a glimpse into the harsh life of early settlers. The ferry site itself features a boat launch, camping facilities, and interpretive displays about its history.

Lees Ferry also attracts anglers, drawn to its world-class trout fishery below Glen Canyon Dam, established after the dam’s completion in 1963 altered the river’s ecology. The clear, cold waters released from the dam create ideal conditions for rainbow trout, making the stretch between the dam and Lees Ferry a popular destination.

A Legacy of Connection

Lees Ferry’s significance lies in its role as a crossroads—geographic, cultural, and historical. From Native American trails to Mormon pioneers, from Powell’s daring expeditions to modern adventurers, the site has witnessed the unfolding of the American West. Its tranquil setting belies the challenges faced by those who crossed its waters or braved the canyons beyond. Today, as river runners launch from its shores and historians reflect on its past, Lees Ferry remains a testament to human resilience and the enduring allure of the Colorado River.

Upper Antelope Canyon

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Located just outside of Page, Arizona Upper Antelope Canyon is arguably the best known slot canyon on the planet, yet few people will know its name outside of desert enthusiasts.  For those unaware of these structures, slot canyons are extremely narrow canyons, carved by water, which are typically just a few feet wide, but may be just a few inches.  The typically arid dessert can instantly turn into raging torrent of water in just a few minutes with just a few inches of water.  This water picks up speed, and debris such as sand, which scours the landscape including rock.  Antelope Canyon is found on Navajo Tribal land, and access to the canyon is only allowed with a Navajo Guide.

Molten Wave - Located in Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona Antelope Canyon is the best known slot canyon.
Molten Wave – Located in Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona Antelope Canyon is the best known slot canyon.
Parallelism – The smooth canyon walls of Antelop Canyon offer amazing photographic images.

Antelope Canyon is actually two separate slot canyons located a short distance from each other on either side of US 98.  Upper Antelope Canyon is know as Tse’ bighanilini, which in Navajo means “the place where water runs through rocks.”  Travel to the Canyon is done via Navajo run transport and you are allowed about 2 hours for your visit.  The site is at about 4,000 feet elevation and the canyon walls rise 120 feet above a stream bed.

I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.

James Rathbun, Destination4x4.com

Access into the upper canyon is simply a walking into a canyon.  The trail is flat and sandy and very easy to manage.  Upon entrance into the Upper Antelope Canyon you are immediately struck by the texture and color of this place.  Just inside the entrance, is a small chamber which seems to great you, and the pink and orange glow of the light bouncing off the walls force your eyes up.  The geography is such, that the narrow opening high above you lets in a small fraction of the available light, and that light bounces down towards the bottom of the canyon.

Relatively short, Upper Antelope Canyon may be traversed in just 5 minutes.  However, this is simply a waste of your time if you just rush through.  The only complaint of the canyon, are the other visitors.  As a photographer, I have many photographs ruined by people turning a corner and walking into my frame while I was making an exposure.  This does not mean they were rude or anything but patient, but rather an unfortunate side effect of composing photographs with long exposure times in a 18 inch wide slot Canyon.

French Curve - Upper Antelope Canyon
French Curve – Upper Antelope Canyon

As with all beautiful things, we must share this location and Antelope Canyon is a must stop location every time I visit the area.  There is a hidden danger, in that the very forces which sculpt a slot canyon are still very much in play and every few years a new story will appear about someone being killed in a slot canyon due to a sudden flash flood.

I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.

Upper Antelope Canyon Map