Tag: Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

John Doyle Lee

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John D Lee
John D Lee

John Doyle Lee is best known for establishing and operating Lees Ferry on the Colorado River in northern Arizona in 1871, under Brigham Young’s direction, to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona. The ferry, located at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, became a vital crossing point for pioneers, including those traveling the “Honeymoon Trail” to the St. George Temple.

Early Life and Mormon Conversion

John Doyle Lee was born on September 6, 1812, in Kaskaskia, Illinois Territory. His early life was marked by hardship; his mother, Elizabeth, died when he was young, and his father, Ralph Lee, struggled with alcoholism. Lee was raised by his grandfather and later his uncle’s family. At age 20, he began working on steamboats and in business, eventually marrying Agatha Ann Woolsey in 1833. In 1838, at age 25, Lee joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), profoundly shaping his life. He became a dedicated member, serving as a missionary in Illinois, Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, and a guard for Mormon prophet Joseph Smith. Lee embraced the LDS doctrine of plural marriage, ultimately marrying 19 wives and fathering 56 children, though 11 wives later left him.

Role in the Mormon Movement

Lee was a prominent figure in the early LDS Church, serving as an official scribe for the Council of Fifty, a group guiding the church’s westward expansion. After Joseph Smith’s murder in 1844, Lee followed Brigham Young to Utah, where he became a successful farmer and rancher. In 1856, he was appointed a U.S. Indian Agent in Iron County, Utah, tasked with aiding Native Americans in establishing farms. He also served in the Utah Territorial Legislature in 1858. Lee’s involvement with the secretive Mormon militia, the Danites, and his role in defending Mormon interests during conflicts in Missouri further cemented his status within the church.

The Mountain Meadows Massacre

Lee’s legacy is indelibly tied to the Mountain Meadows Massacre of September 1857, a tragic event in southern Utah. As a leader in the Iron County militia and a U.S. Indian Agent, Lee was implicated in the attack on the Baker-Fancher emigrant party, a group of about 120 men, women, and children traveling from Arkansas to California. Tensions between Mormons and non-Mormons were high, fueled by fears of federal intervention and perceived hostility from the emigrants. Lee, along with other Mormon militia members and Paiute allies, orchestrated a siege. On the third day, Lee approached the emigrants under a white flag, convincing them to surrender their weapons for safe passage. Instead, the militia and Paiutes killed approximately 120 emigrants, sparing only 17 small children. Lee later claimed he acted under orders from militia leaders and was a reluctant participant, asserting that Brigham Young had no prior knowledge of the event. However, he initially blamed the Paiutes to deflect responsibility.

Establishment of Lees Ferry

By the late 1860s, federal pressure to investigate the massacre intensified, and in October 1870, Brigham Young excommunicated Lee, making him the sole scapegoat among over 50 participants. In 1871, seeking to evade arrest, Lee was sent by the LDS Church to establish a ferry crossing on the Colorado River in northern Arizona. Accompanied by two of his wives, including Emma Batchelor Lee, he settled at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria Rivers, naming the area “Lonely Dell” due to its isolation. On January 11, 1873, Lee launched the ferry service, which became a vital link for Mormon settlers moving between Utah and Arizona. The ferry, known as Lees Ferry, facilitated thousands of crossings, supported by the nearby Lonely Dell Ranch, where Lee and his family built cabins, cleared fields, and developed irrigation systems. Emma played a crucial role, managing operations and offering hospitality to travelers. The site’s unique geography made it the only accessible crossing point for over 260 miles, cementing its historical significance.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Arrest, Trial, and Execution

Despite his efforts to remain hidden, Lee was arrested in November 1874. His first trial in 1875 ended in a hung jury, as the prosecution tried to implicate Brigham Young and the Mormon hierarchy. In a second trial in 1876, the prosecution focused solely on Lee’s role, leading to his conviction for first-degree murder. Lee maintained he was a scapegoat, used by church leaders to deflect blame. On March 23, 1877, he was taken to the Mountain Meadows Massacre site and executed by firing squad. His final words expressed resignation and faith: “I feel as calm as a summer morn, and I have done nothing intentionally wrong. My conscience is clear before God and man.” He also criticized Brigham Young, stating, “I have been sacrificed in a cowardly, dastardly manner.” Lee’s body was buried in Panguitch, Utah.

Legacy and Posthumous Reinstatement

Lees Ferry continued operating after Lee’s death, with Emma running it until 1879, when the LDS Church purchased it for $3,000 and transferred operations to Warren Marshall Johnson. The ferry remained active until 1928, when a bridge replaced it. Today, Lees Ferry is a historic site within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, known for fishing and as the starting point for Grand Canyon rafting trips. The Lonely Dell Ranch is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In April 1961, the LDS Church posthumously reinstated Lee’s membership, reflecting ongoing debates about his role as a scapegoat. His numerous descendants include notable figures like former Solicitor General Rex E. Lee and Senators Mike Lee, Gordon H. Smith, Mark Udall, and Tom Udall.

Conclusion

John Doyle Lee’s life encapsulates the complexities of the American frontier and early Mormon history. A devoted pioneer, farmer, and ferry operator, his contributions to Mormon expansion are overshadowed by his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. Lees Ferry stands as a testament to his and Emma’s resilience in a harsh landscape, while his execution highlights the fraught dynamics of justice and blame in a turbulent era. His story remains a compelling chapter in the history of the American West.

Lees Ferry Campground

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Nestled within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry Campground is a scenic, primitive campground located on a bluff overlooking the Colorado River, just 1.5 miles from the historic Lees Ferry boat launch in Marble Canyon, Arizona. Situated about 42 miles from Page, AZ, and 125 miles north of Flagstaff, this first-come, first-served campground offers 54 designated campsites suitable for tents, trailers, and RVs up to 30 feet, with no hookups available. Each site features a picnic table, fire ring with grate, and many include shade structures to provide relief from the desert sun, as there is no natural shade. The campground, open year-round, charges $26 per site per night (as of January 2025), with a discounted rate of $13 for holders of the America the Beautiful Senior or Access Pass.

Amenities include clean flush toilets, potable water spigots (though occasionally turned off during cooler months), and an RV dump station located about 0.75 miles away. There are no showers, but coin-operated showers are available at Marble Canyon Lodge, approximately 5 miles away. Grills are provided, but open ground fires are prohibited outside of grates, and quiet hours are enforced from 10 PM to 6 AM. A gas station, store, and post office are conveniently located in Marble Canyon, just 5 miles from the campground. The sites are slightly unlevel, and tent campers are advised to bring extra stakes or ropes due to frequent windy conditions, especially in the afternoons.

The campground’s prime location offers stunning views of the Colorado River, Vermilion Cliffs, and surrounding red-orange rock formations, making it a haven for stargazing and photography, particularly at night under clear desert skies. Its proximity to the river allows easy access to fly fishing (license required), hiking, and boating activities, with the Lees Ferry boat ramp serving as the starting point for Grand Canyon rafting trips. Nearby trails, such as the River Trail, Paria Riffles, and Cathedral Wash, offer opportunities to explore the area’s geology and spot wildlife like bighorn sheep. The historic Lees Ferry crossing, used from 1872 to 1928, and remnants like the Old Mormon Fort are within walking distance, adding a layer of historical intrigue.

Ideal for adventurers seeking a no-frills camping experience, Lees Ferry Campground is a gateway to the slot canyons, desert ridges, and waters of Lake Powell. Its serene atmosphere and million-dollar views make it a favorite, though arriving early is recommended to secure a spot, especially during peak spring and fall seasons when the weather is most favorable.

John Wesley Powell

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John Wesley Powell, a remarkable American explorer, geologist, and ethnologist, was born on March 24, 1834, in Mount Morris, New York. His expeditions through the uncharted territories of the American West not only added to scientific knowledge but also provided invaluable insights into the land’s geological and cultural diversity. Powell’s legacy as a pioneer of exploration and his tireless efforts in promoting conservation measures have left an indelible mark on American history.

Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.
Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.

Early Life and Education

Powell grew up in rural New York, where his love for nature and the outdoors was nurtured from an early age. Although he lost his right arm in a childhood accident, Powell’s determination and thirst for adventure were undeterred. He developed a keen interest in natural sciences and geography and pursued higher education at Illinois College and later at Oberlin College, where he focused on geology.

Grand Canyon Expeditions

Powell’s most famous and daring expedition was his 1869 journey down the Colorado River, known as the Powell Geographic Expedition. With a team of nine men, Powell set out to explore the largely uncharted canyons and rapids of the Colorado River and gather valuable scientific data. The expedition faced numerous hardships, including treacherous rapids, scarce food supplies, and hostile encounters with Native American tribes. Miraculously, Powell and his crew successfully navigated the treacherous river and completed the journey, providing unprecedented knowledge of the Grand Canyon and its geological formations.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

Powell’s subsequent expeditions further solidified his reputation as a fearless explorer. He embarked on multiple journeys across the American West, including explorations of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Rocky Mountains, and the Uinta Mountains. Powell’s meticulous record-keeping and scientific observations greatly expanded the understanding of the region’s geology, hydrology, and ethnography.

Scientific Contributions

Powell’s expeditions were not merely adventurous endeavors but also scientific ventures aimed at advancing knowledge in various fields. He published numerous papers and reports detailing his findings, including “Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries” and “Canons of the Colorado.” These works significantly contributed to the geological understanding of the American West, shaping subsequent research and studies in the region.

Additionally, Powell’s expertise in ethnology led him to conduct extensive research on Native American tribes. He documented their cultures, languages, and customs, recognizing the importance of preserving their heritage. His ethnographic studies formed a crucial foundation for future anthropological research in the United States.

Conservation Advocacy

John Wesley Powell was not only a scientist and explorer but also an early advocate for conservation. Recognizing the fragile nature of the American West’s ecosystems, he became a vocal proponent of sustainable land use practices and preservation efforts. Powell believed that the arid region’s limited water resources necessitated careful management and planning.

In 1879, Powell presented his influential “Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States” to Congress. This groundbreaking report emphasized the need for responsible irrigation and land development strategies, urging policymakers to consider the long-term consequences of uncontrolled resource exploitation. Powell’s report laid the groundwork for the eventual establishment of the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Reclamation, both crucial agencies in land and water management.

Legacy and Impact

John Wesley Powell’s contributions to exploration, science, and conservation continue to resonate today. His expeditions not only unveiled the wonders of the American West but also inspired future generations of explorers and scientists. Powell’s emphasis on interdisciplinary research and his understanding of the intricate relationships between humans and their environment remain

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