Tag: Lees Ferry

Lees Ferry Colorado River Crossing

Posted on by

Lees Ferry, a remote site along the Colorado River in northern Arizona, holds a pivotal place in American history as a vital crossing point, a gateway to exploration, and a launchpad for modern river running. Situated at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, just downstream from Glen Canyon and upstream from the Grand Canyon, Lees Ferry has served as a geographic and cultural hinge for centuries, bridging Native American trails, Mormon settlement, and modern adventure.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Early History and Native American Presence

Long before European settlers arrived, the area around Lees Ferry was a crossing point for Native American tribes, including the Ancestral Puebloans, Navajo, and Paiute. The site’s relatively calm waters and accessible riverbanks made it a natural ford for foot traffic and trade routes across the rugged Colorado Plateau. Archaeological evidence suggests human activity in the region dating back thousands of years, with petroglyphs and artifacts attesting to its significance.

The Colorado River, however, was a formidable barrier, with its steep canyons and turbulent rapids. Lees Ferry stood out as one of the few locations where the river could be crossed safely, earning it a place in the region’s cultural and economic landscape.

John D. Lee and the Mormon Era

John D Lee
John D Lee

Lees Ferry derives its name from John Doyle Lee, a prominent and controversial figure in the history of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church). Born in 1812, Lee was a devout Mormon pioneer who played a significant role in the church’s westward expansion. In 1871, following his excommunication for his involvement in the 1857 Mountain Meadows Massacre, Lee was sent by church leader Brigham Young to establish a ferry service at the site to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona.

Lee arrived with two of his wives, Emma and Ann, and several children, building a homestead known as Lonely Dell near the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers. In 1872, he constructed a rudimentary ferry—a flatboat guided by ropes—capable of carrying wagons, livestock, and people across the river. The ferry became a critical link on the “Honeymoon Trail,” a route used by Mormon couples traveling from Arizona settlements to the temple in St. George, Utah, for marriage ceremonies. Lee operated the ferry until his arrest in 1874 for his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was executed in 1877, but his wife Emma continued running the ferry until 1879.

The ferry operation passed through several hands, including the LDS Church and private operators, until 1928, when it was rendered obsolete by the completion of the Navajo Bridge, located a few miles downstream. The bridge, opened in 1929, provided a more reliable crossing, marking the end of the ferry’s practical necessity.

Exploration and Scientific Significance

Lees Ferry’s strategic location made it a key staging point for early exploration of the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon. In 1869, John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist, launched his historic expedition down the Green and Colorado Rivers from Green River, Wyoming, passing through Lees Ferry en route to the Grand Canyon. Powell’s 1871–1872 expedition again used the site as a critical resupply point, cementing its role in the mapping and scientific study of the American Southwest.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

The U.S. Geological Survey later designated Lees Ferry as the official division point between the Upper and Lower Colorado River Basins, a demarcation still used in water management today. The site’s consistent flow and accessibility made it ideal for gauging stations, which have monitored the river’s flow since the early 20th century, providing critical data for dam construction and water allocation in the arid West.

The Rise of River Running

In the 20th century, Lees Ferry transformed into the primary launch point for recreational and commercial river trips through the Grand Canyon. Its gentle waters and proximity to Marble Canyon make it an ideal starting point for navigating the Grand Canyon’s rapids. The site gained fame in the 1920s during the ill-fated honeymoon journey of Glen and Bessie Hyde, who launched their homemade scow from Lees Ferry in 1928, only to vanish downstream, leaving behind one of the canyon’s enduring mysteries.

By the mid-20th century, river running grew in popularity, spurred by figures like Norman Nevills, who pioneered commercial rafting trips, and Georgie Clark, who became a legendary river guide. Today, Lees Ferry is the starting point for thousands of annual river trips, ranging from half-day floats to multi-week expeditions through the Grand Canyon. The National Park Service tightly regulates these trips, with permits highly sought after due to the area’s scenic beauty and challenging rapids.

Lees Ferry Today

Now part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lees Ferry is a designated historic site, with remnants of its past preserved for visitors. Lonely Dell, the original homestead, includes restored buildings, an orchard, and a small cemetery, offering a glimpse into the harsh life of early settlers. The ferry site itself features a boat launch, camping facilities, and interpretive displays about its history.

Lees Ferry also attracts anglers, drawn to its world-class trout fishery below Glen Canyon Dam, established after the dam’s completion in 1963 altered the river’s ecology. The clear, cold waters released from the dam create ideal conditions for rainbow trout, making the stretch between the dam and Lees Ferry a popular destination.

A Legacy of Connection

Lees Ferry’s significance lies in its role as a crossroads—geographic, cultural, and historical. From Native American trails to Mormon pioneers, from Powell’s daring expeditions to modern adventurers, the site has witnessed the unfolding of the American West. Its tranquil setting belies the challenges faced by those who crossed its waters or braved the canyons beyond. Today, as river runners launch from its shores and historians reflect on its past, Lees Ferry remains a testament to human resilience and the enduring allure of the Colorado River.

John Doyle Lee

Posted on by
John D Lee
John D Lee

John Doyle Lee is best known for establishing and operating Lees Ferry on the Colorado River in northern Arizona in 1871, under Brigham Young’s direction, to facilitate Mormon settlement in Arizona. The ferry, located at the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers, became a vital crossing point for pioneers, including those traveling the “Honeymoon Trail” to the St. George Temple.

Early Life and Mormon Conversion

John Doyle Lee was born on September 6, 1812, in Kaskaskia, Illinois Territory. His early life was marked by hardship; his mother, Elizabeth, died when he was young, and his father, Ralph Lee, struggled with alcoholism. Lee was raised by his grandfather and later his uncle’s family. At age 20, he began working on steamboats and in business, eventually marrying Agatha Ann Woolsey in 1833. In 1838, at age 25, Lee joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), profoundly shaping his life. He became a dedicated member, serving as a missionary in Illinois, Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, and a guard for Mormon prophet Joseph Smith. Lee embraced the LDS doctrine of plural marriage, ultimately marrying 19 wives and fathering 56 children, though 11 wives later left him.

Role in the Mormon Movement

Lee was a prominent figure in the early LDS Church, serving as an official scribe for the Council of Fifty, a group guiding the church’s westward expansion. After Joseph Smith’s murder in 1844, Lee followed Brigham Young to Utah, where he became a successful farmer and rancher. In 1856, he was appointed a U.S. Indian Agent in Iron County, Utah, tasked with aiding Native Americans in establishing farms. He also served in the Utah Territorial Legislature in 1858. Lee’s involvement with the secretive Mormon militia, the Danites, and his role in defending Mormon interests during conflicts in Missouri further cemented his status within the church.

The Mountain Meadows Massacre

Lee’s legacy is indelibly tied to the Mountain Meadows Massacre of September 1857, a tragic event in southern Utah. As a leader in the Iron County militia and a U.S. Indian Agent, Lee was implicated in the attack on the Baker-Fancher emigrant party, a group of about 120 men, women, and children traveling from Arkansas to California. Tensions between Mormons and non-Mormons were high, fueled by fears of federal intervention and perceived hostility from the emigrants. Lee, along with other Mormon militia members and Paiute allies, orchestrated a siege. On the third day, Lee approached the emigrants under a white flag, convincing them to surrender their weapons for safe passage. Instead, the militia and Paiutes killed approximately 120 emigrants, sparing only 17 small children. Lee later claimed he acted under orders from militia leaders and was a reluctant participant, asserting that Brigham Young had no prior knowledge of the event. However, he initially blamed the Paiutes to deflect responsibility.

Establishment of Lees Ferry

By the late 1860s, federal pressure to investigate the massacre intensified, and in October 1870, Brigham Young excommunicated Lee, making him the sole scapegoat among over 50 participants. In 1871, seeking to evade arrest, Lee was sent by the LDS Church to establish a ferry crossing on the Colorado River in northern Arizona. Accompanied by two of his wives, including Emma Batchelor Lee, he settled at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria Rivers, naming the area “Lonely Dell” due to its isolation. On January 11, 1873, Lee launched the ferry service, which became a vital link for Mormon settlers moving between Utah and Arizona. The ferry, known as Lees Ferry, facilitated thousands of crossings, supported by the nearby Lonely Dell Ranch, where Lee and his family built cabins, cleared fields, and developed irrigation systems. Emma played a crucial role, managing operations and offering hospitality to travelers. The site’s unique geography made it the only accessible crossing point for over 260 miles, cementing its historical significance.

Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.
Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. The boat is relatively small. Five people and two horses or mules are on board. The ferry is guided by wires spanning the river. Historic photograph of ferryboat at Lees Ferry. John D. Lee established the first ferry at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria rivers in the 1870s. Ferries operated there until Navajo Bridge opened in 1929.

Arrest, Trial, and Execution

Despite his efforts to remain hidden, Lee was arrested in November 1874. His first trial in 1875 ended in a hung jury, as the prosecution tried to implicate Brigham Young and the Mormon hierarchy. In a second trial in 1876, the prosecution focused solely on Lee’s role, leading to his conviction for first-degree murder. Lee maintained he was a scapegoat, used by church leaders to deflect blame. On March 23, 1877, he was taken to the Mountain Meadows Massacre site and executed by firing squad. His final words expressed resignation and faith: “I feel as calm as a summer morn, and I have done nothing intentionally wrong. My conscience is clear before God and man.” He also criticized Brigham Young, stating, “I have been sacrificed in a cowardly, dastardly manner.” Lee’s body was buried in Panguitch, Utah.

Legacy and Posthumous Reinstatement

Lees Ferry continued operating after Lee’s death, with Emma running it until 1879, when the LDS Church purchased it for $3,000 and transferred operations to Warren Marshall Johnson. The ferry remained active until 1928, when a bridge replaced it. Today, Lees Ferry is a historic site within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, known for fishing and as the starting point for Grand Canyon rafting trips. The Lonely Dell Ranch is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In April 1961, the LDS Church posthumously reinstated Lee’s membership, reflecting ongoing debates about his role as a scapegoat. His numerous descendants include notable figures like former Solicitor General Rex E. Lee and Senators Mike Lee, Gordon H. Smith, Mark Udall, and Tom Udall.

Conclusion

John Doyle Lee’s life encapsulates the complexities of the American frontier and early Mormon history. A devoted pioneer, farmer, and ferry operator, his contributions to Mormon expansion are overshadowed by his role in the Mountain Meadows Massacre. Lees Ferry stands as a testament to his and Emma’s resilience in a harsh landscape, while his execution highlights the fraught dynamics of justice and blame in a turbulent era. His story remains a compelling chapter in the history of the American West.

John Wesley Powell

Posted on by

John Wesley Powell, a remarkable American explorer, geologist, and ethnologist, was born on March 24, 1834, in Mount Morris, New York. His expeditions through the uncharted territories of the American West not only added to scientific knowledge but also provided invaluable insights into the land’s geological and cultural diversity. Powell’s legacy as a pioneer of exploration and his tireless efforts in promoting conservation measures have left an indelible mark on American history.

Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.
Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.

Early Life and Education

Powell grew up in rural New York, where his love for nature and the outdoors was nurtured from an early age. Although he lost his right arm in a childhood accident, Powell’s determination and thirst for adventure were undeterred. He developed a keen interest in natural sciences and geography and pursued higher education at Illinois College and later at Oberlin College, where he focused on geology.

Grand Canyon Expeditions

Powell’s most famous and daring expedition was his 1869 journey down the Colorado River, known as the Powell Geographic Expedition. With a team of nine men, Powell set out to explore the largely uncharted canyons and rapids of the Colorado River and gather valuable scientific data. The expedition faced numerous hardships, including treacherous rapids, scarce food supplies, and hostile encounters with Native American tribes. Miraculously, Powell and his crew successfully navigated the treacherous river and completed the journey, providing unprecedented knowledge of the Grand Canyon and its geological formations.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

Powell’s subsequent expeditions further solidified his reputation as a fearless explorer. He embarked on multiple journeys across the American West, including explorations of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Rocky Mountains, and the Uinta Mountains. Powell’s meticulous record-keeping and scientific observations greatly expanded the understanding of the region’s geology, hydrology, and ethnography.

Scientific Contributions

Powell’s expeditions were not merely adventurous endeavors but also scientific ventures aimed at advancing knowledge in various fields. He published numerous papers and reports detailing his findings, including “Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries” and “Canons of the Colorado.” These works significantly contributed to the geological understanding of the American West, shaping subsequent research and studies in the region.

Additionally, Powell’s expertise in ethnology led him to conduct extensive research on Native American tribes. He documented their cultures, languages, and customs, recognizing the importance of preserving their heritage. His ethnographic studies formed a crucial foundation for future anthropological research in the United States.

Conservation Advocacy

John Wesley Powell was not only a scientist and explorer but also an early advocate for conservation. Recognizing the fragile nature of the American West’s ecosystems, he became a vocal proponent of sustainable land use practices and preservation efforts. Powell believed that the arid region’s limited water resources necessitated careful management and planning.

In 1879, Powell presented his influential “Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States” to Congress. This groundbreaking report emphasized the need for responsible irrigation and land development strategies, urging policymakers to consider the long-term consequences of uncontrolled resource exploitation. Powell’s report laid the groundwork for the eventual establishment of the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Reclamation, both crucial agencies in land and water management.

Legacy and Impact

John Wesley Powell’s contributions to exploration, science, and conservation continue to resonate today. His expeditions not only unveiled the wonders of the American West but also inspired future generations of explorers and scientists. Powell’s emphasis on interdisciplinary research and his understanding of the intricate relationships between humans and their environment remain

References