Tag: San Bernardino

San Bernardino County, located in Southern California, is renowned for its vast expanses of diverse landscapes ranging from rugged mountains to expansive deserts. Home to both bustling urban centers like Apple Valley and Barstow as well as serene natural wonders such as Joshua Tree National Park and the San Bernardino National Forest, the county offers a blend of urban convenience and outdoor adventure. Its economy is diverse, encompassing industries like logistics, healthcare, and tourism, buoyed by its strategic location between Los Angeles and the rest of the Inland Empire. With a rich history dating back to the days of Spanish missions and a vibrant cultural tapestry woven from its diverse population.

Evening Star Mine

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The Evening Star Mine first came to our attention in the winter of 2014, while researching the mining history of the Mountain Pass located in California near the border with Nevada.  On a whim, while driving home we did a little exploring in the Mountain Pass area just inside of the California border outside of Primm, Nevada.  We frequently drive past this area, marveling at the Wild Burro population, but just did not stop to investigate.  Our brief stop opened the flood gates as we “discovered” gold fish in a water trough.  After some investigation the mining districts of the Ivanpah mountains were exposed, at the Evening Star Mine is principal among them.

Evening Star Mine, Mojave, California - 2015 Photo by James L Rathbun
Evening Star Mine, Mojave, California – 2015 Photo by James L Rathbun

Operating between 1939 and 1944, the Evening Star Mine was the only producer of tin ore in the eastern Mojave Desert.    Located in the Mescal Mining District, the site maintains an impressive sixty foot head frame which is built upon three towers of different heights and supply ore to an ore bin.  The mine is unique in that the crusher is located at the top of the head frame.

The Evening Star Mine began life in 1935 as a copper claim.  J. Riley Bembry prospected and then within a year, sold the claim to Trigg L. Button and Clarence Hammett of Santa Ana, Califonia.  The two men began digging the Number 1 shaft.  In 1940, the claim was again sold, this time of Vaughn Maynard of Santa Ana who then sold it to the Tin Corporation of America in 1941. The Tin Corporation of America continued sinking the shaft, and shipped 25 tons in June 1942 to Texas City, Texas.

Carl Wendrick Jr. secured the lease in 1943 with a government loan and soon the site hosted eight men who built a larger head frame.  Over 400 tons of ore were processed and several tons of tin concentrates were sold to the government stockpile in Jean, Nevada.

The structure is essentially sound, and in good condition, however steps are being taken to stabilize the head frame.  The mine shaft itself is closed to access by BLM using a cable net.

Resources

Zzyzx Road – Soda springs

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Located south of Baker, CA on the edge of a large soda dry lake bed in the Mojave, Zzyzx Road is a short road which leads from the I-15 highway to a soda  spring with an eclectic history.   The springs were the site of a prehistoric quarry and early human activity undoubtedly taking shelter from the heat in the Oasis which is the spring site.

ake Tuendae, an Oasis in the Mojave Desert is found at the end of Zzyzx Road off the I-15. Photograph by James L Rathbun
ake Tuendae, an Oasis in the Mojave Desert is found at the end of Zzyzx Road off the I-15. Photograph by James L Rathbun

During the 1860s, the springs and surrounding areas host a U.S. Army camp which serviced the Mojave Road as Fort Soda Springs and a local train depot for the Tomopah and Tidewater Railroad.

Curtis Howe Springer

Curtis Howe Springer
Curtis Howe Springer

In 1944, a radio evangelist, self proclaimed medical doctor and methodist minister Curtis Howe Springer filed a mining claim for 12,800 acres of land south of Baker, CA and along the coast of the large dry soda lake.  The 8 miles by 3 miles track of land included the old army fort and the train depot.  Mr. Springers goal was to establish a “Health Spa” for anyone who felt the need to improve their Health.  The cost of a visit was free of charge, but undoubtedly he pressured his visitors to make “donations” to his organization.

The area was developed over time, and Springer named the site after his own invented word Zzyzx, as to be the last word in the dictionary, and the phrase the “last word in” was used as part of his marketing campaigns for all his endeavors.  The location was built up over a period of 30 years (1944 – 1974) starting with a 20 tent camp which soon turned into a primitive concrete settlement built using laborers recruited from Los Angeles “Skid Row”.  The warm soda springs were of his own manufacture which used boilers and man made pools for this natural healing site.

Years of development Zzyzx Mineral springs featured 60 room lodging, a radio station, mineral spa, a private airport dubbed the “Zyport” and or coarse a church.  In addition, Curtis Springer would peddle his cures using his national and international radio broadcasts which promised cures for almost every disease.  In the late 1960’s, Mr Springer gained the attention of the Federal Government for building homes for large doners to his “Ministry”.  Since the original Mine claim never transfer ownership of the land to him, but rather gives him mineral rights, and he had not produce any profit from mining he was not entitled to development the land, because he did not own the land.

The dry soda lake located in the Mojave National Preserve and found next to Zzyzx Road offers a surreal view of the area. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The dry soda lake located in the Mojave National Preserve and found next to Zzyzx Road offers a surreal view of the area. Photograph by James L Rathbun

After loosing in court, he was evicted from the site in 1974, and in 1976 the California State University system incorporate the site into their field studies and research programs which, I am sure, has provided a far better use of the property.  The property continues to operative within the Mojave National Preserve as the Desert Studies Center by the California State University. Visitors are welcome to tour the area, there are picnic tables and a self guided tour around Lake Tuendae.

Resources

Mojave Goldfish

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Over Presidents day weekend, my wife and I were travelling back from Big Bear, CA to our house after a visit with family towards our home in Las Vegas.  Frequently, my wife will point out an old road or mine and comment that we need to take that trail someday.  During out drive home, we were talking about the mining district in Mountain Pass and the Evening Star mine.  On this journey, we chanced upon the ultra rare Mojave Goldfish.

This is one of the great reasons for owning a 4×4 and the Mojave Desert is a prime location to explore.

A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert.. Photograph by James L Rathbun
A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert. Photograph by James L Rathbun

So, we exited the I-15 travelling north on Baily road near the Kokoweef mine.  Typically, I have a route mapped out ahead of time, but a spur of the moment decision left our route to happenstance.   We drove straight off the off ramp and headed up the hill.  Immediately I sensed the I took the wrong route, but since we were exploring I just drove on, you never know what you will find.  Soon, we found a private property sign, and opt towards a road to the left.  I found 4×4 low in the transfer case and we climbed a short hill.  Upon cresting the hill, I noticed something metal down the the left.  I road the gears down in low until we reached the small canyon where I made a tight left towards the metallic object I saw from the top of the hill.

Within a quarter of a mile, I found an juniper tree with a metal water trough.  These are not uncommon in the mojave and can be found throughout the dessert.  I parked the jeep to investigate and was shocked…

The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natual environment. Photo by James L Rathbun
The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natural environment. Photo by James L Rathbun

We stumbled upon Goldfish, in the Mojave Desert and these things were pretty big.  I mean, I have eaten trout smaller than some of these.  Goldfish are used to keep the algae in check inside the water trough.  An elegant solution to a problem I didn’t think existed, but that makes sense.  The water trough was plumbed with a PVC pipe to bring the spring water to the trough.  The overflow, did just that and the rocks on either wide of the trough edge allow for animals to escape the tank.  An endless supply of fresh water would keep the urea concentrations down, so the fish grow into their environment.

My biggest question is that in a remote area with a lot of preditors, why are these fish alive?  I thought that an oportunistic coyote, fox or raven would make quick work of this exposed tank, but these large fish prove they have been here for time.  Regardless a very fun find and a true 4×4 destination.

Achy-Breaky

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Achy-Breaky is a very difficult, trail which circumnavigates Watkins Peak in San Bernardino County, California. This trail is one of many on the Stoddard Wells OHV.  The trail requires a well built 4×4 and a GPS to even stay on the trail which a network of difficult to navigate trails.

California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail
California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail

Located south of Barstow, in the Stoddard Wells OHV Area. The trail is quite a popular destination for people who are looking to test their 4×4, and not suitable for stock vehicles. Skid plates, differential lockers, high ground clearance and a capable truck are required to navigate the desert terrain with numerous steep, rocky climbs. Tire damage is a real possibility from the large, sharp rocks. Although technically challenging, the trail does not offer much in the scenery department, unless you hike up towards to top of the peak.

The trail is best run from November to March each year due to the high heat of the Mohave Desert. More information on Stoddard Wells OHV Area can be found at the Barstow Field office of the Bureau of Land Management at 760-252-6000.

Arcy-Breaky Trail Map

References

Henry Wade Escape Route

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The Henry Wade Escape Route is an easy 4×4 trail suitable for almost any vehicle and connects highway 127 to Badwater Road. The route is usually dry and easily passable, however can be rough going in the wet. The spring wildflowers may offer amazing scenery for those who travel at this time.

Henry Wade Escape Route Monument located on Highway 127
Henry Wade Escape Route Monument located on Highway 127

Henry Wade like many men of his time, sought his fortune in California on the news of the gold discover which lead to a historic gold rush. In 1849, a group of about one hundred wagons, led by Jefferson Hunt entered Death Valley en route from Utah. The caravan was searching for a shortcut from the Old Spanish Trail to the booming gold rush of California. Soon discovered they were in real trouble, bogged down in the sane and heat of the Mojave. Several men died, which may have provided Death Valley with its name. Henry Wade led the expedition from Death Valley roughly along the trail which now bears his name and eventually found their way through Cajon Pass into Southern California. Although the exact route is debated, Henry Wade led is group out of Death Valley via the south entrance.

Harry Wade Exit Route – Some 100 wagons found themselves in Salt Lake City too late to cross the Sierra Nevada. They banded together under the name of Sand Walking Co. and started for the gold fields in California over the Old Spanish Trail. After being in Death Valley with the ill-fated 1849 caravan, Harry Wade found this exit route for his ox-drawn wagon, thereby saving his life and those of his wife and children. At this point the Wade party came upon the known Spanish Trail to Cajon Pass.

Highway Placard on Hgwy 127

Further Reading

Henry Wade Escape Route Trailmap