Category: Destination4x4

The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail

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The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short is a 1.5 miles loop trail around a hill top and through a slot canyon in the Mojave National Preserve.  The trail it self is well marked and very easy going, with the exception of 1/4 mile at the north end, through a slot canyon.  Rings are bolted into the rock to serve as hand holds and give the trail its name.

The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short fun little hike in the Mojave National Preserve.
The Hole in the Wall Ring Trail is a short fun little hike in the Mojave National Preserve.

Following the Hole in the Wall Ring Trail from the visitors center south, the trail circles a hill in showcases various plants and cacti in the area.  The trail starts off fairly sandy and remains so until about the time you reach a large rock covered with petroglyphs.  You can spends hours trying to decipher the message left by our Native American community who live in the area long ago.

A snake is just one of many petroglyphs on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
A snake is just one of many petroglyphs on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

Leaving the petrogplyph rock behind, the trail travels through a meadow towards the slot canyon and near the Banshee Canyon primitive campsite.  This area in the spring time is very beautiful with a green valley floor from the low green grass spurred on my a recent spring rain.

A slot canyon begins to form towards the end of the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
A slot canyon begins to form towards the end of the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

As you leave Banshee Canyon behind, the walls being to narrow down into a slot canyon.  As you hike into the slot canyon the walls continue to narrow until you reach the points you can touch each side of the Canyon at the same time.    The final push of the hike is about a 50 foot elevation gain and some of the elevation gain is accomplished via the ring hand holds bolted into the wall.

My son Ryan showing the proper technique for climbing the rings, on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.
My son Ryan showing the proper technique for climbing the rings, on the Ring Trail, Mojave National Preserve.

California Juniper ( Juniperus californica )

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The California Juniper ( Juniperus californica ) is a common tree found in California, western Arizona and southern Nevada at medium elevations between 2,460 – 5,250 ft.  Commonly growing 10 and 26 feet in height, the grayish shredded bark Juniper may reach a maximum height or about 33 feet, although this height is rare.  Growing up in California and frequently camping in the Mojave and High Sierra, the California Juniper has frequents my memory and photographs.

A Juniper bush decorates the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.
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Mid Hills Campground, Mojave National Preserve

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Located in deep in the heart of the Mojave National Preserve there is an abundance of campsites to suit everyone.  The Mid Hills campground was an after thought on a recent trip in March, 2018, however the location and charm of this spot make it a new favorite destination.

Mid Hills Campsite in the Mojave National Preserve March 2018 after a rainstorm.
Mid Hills Campsite in the Mojave National Preserve March 2018 after a rainstorm.

In March 2018, I decided to take my son on our first father and son camping trip, just the boys.  We scoured maps and picked destinations and points of interest.  He was very excited to hike the Ring Trail and we opted over-night at Hole in the Wall campground.

I picked him up from school with the Jeep loaded and we drove down Nipton Road deep into the isolated areas of the Mojave.  We arrived at Hole in the Wall campground and with the sun starting to set discovered that the campground was full of motor homes and jeepers.  No place to camp.  We opted for ‘Plan B’ and headed north.

We arrived at the campground with just a few minutes to setup before the sun went down.  I was pleased that the campground was mostly empty, and the large campsites were physically spacious and located some distance away from each other.

Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.
Our tent located in a large campsite in the Mid Hills Campground in the Mojave National Preserve.

That night we focused on dinner and building a campfire, which was a bit difficult with a bunch of wet tinder and fuel.  Fortunately, the Eagle Scout prevailed any my son and I roasted some march mallows and made some smores.  That evening as the cold wet air enveloped us we explored the cosmos with a telescope before falling asleep under a magnificent display.  The morning was a bit damp and silent.  Only now could I appreciate the beauty and drama located in this campground.

The campground sites within a stand of pinyon pine and juniper trees.  Sadly, on June 1st, 2005, lightning strikes started the Hackberry Fire with burned through the campground and 70,736 surrounding acres.  Twelve years later, there are still scars within the campground.  Long dead and burnt juniper trees juxtapose with new growth provides evidence of the enduring properties of nature.

The campground offers pit toilets, fire rings, tables and ample room.  The 5000 ft elevation offers cold nights in the winter months, however would offer some relief from the summers heat.  There are no ultilities, hook-ups or potable water.  There are 26 campsites, which will cost you are $12 a night and are available on a first come first serve basis.

Mid Hills Campground Map

Joshua Tree (Yucca brevifolia)

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The Joshua Tree was named for the biblical character by the Mormon Setters as they crossed the Mojave Desert in the mid 19th century.  It is told that the tree reminded the early Mormon’s of Joshua who, much like the tree, held his hands up in prayer.  From these humble beginnings, this tree and its undulating shadows have become of an icon of the desert southwest.

Joshua Tree located in the Mojave National Preserve.
Joshua Tree located in the Mojave National Preserve.
Natural distribution of Yucca brevifolia - U.S. Geological Survey - Digital representation of "Atlas of United States Trees" by Elbert L. Little, Jr.
Natural distribution of Yucca brevifolia – U.S. Geological Survey – Digital representation of “Atlas of United States Trees” by Elbert L. Little, Jr.

Joshua Trees are found in the desert southwest at elevations between 1300 and 5900 feet.  A member of the Yucca family, the Joshua can live several hundred years and grow up to 30 feet tall and have a trunk up to 3 feet in diameter.  The tree trunk contains many small fibers and does not contain growth rings as with typical trees.  A top heavy branched tree it can develop an impressive and deep root system which can reach 31 feet deep.

Joshua Tree Bloom are found in the spring month in the Mojave National Preserve. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Blooms are found in the spring month in the Mojave National Preserve. Photograph by James L Rathbun

During the spring months of February, March and April, white flowers signal be beginning of spring for the Joshua Tree.  Flowering is dependent upon both an adequate amount of rain and a freeze.  Once flowered, the Joshua Tree is dependent upon the Yucca month for pollination.

New trees can develop from the roots of existing tree from Rhizomes, however the Yucca moth is required to create new stands of trees from the seeds.

This yucca plant inspired a National Park in Southern CA, which is a favorite location to visit.  The symbol of the high desert, the tree is the name sake of a famous Irish rock band, which is also a favorite.

Bristlecone Pine (Pinus longaeva)

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Blown by wind, and ravaged by time, the Bristlecone pine tree is a silent sentinel of the White Mountains in eastern central California.  Only growing high in subapline mountains, Bristlecone pine trees are among the oldest living organisms, reaching ages of 5000 years old, with on specimen being documented at 5,067 years old by Tom Harlan who aged the tree by ring count.  That calculation confirms this one individual tree to be the oldest living non-clonal organism on the planet.

A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA
A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA

The Bristlecone pine groves are found between 5,600 and 11,200 ft of elevation on mountain slopes with dolomitic coils and can be reached using the White Mountain Road.  This harsh alkaline soil gives the Bristlecone a competitive advantage because over plants and tree are unable to grow.  The trees grow very slowly due cold temperatures, arid soil, wind and short growing seasons.

Reaching a maximum height of 49 ft with a truck diameter up to 12 ft, the Bristlecone pine maintains a bright orange or yellow.  The stunted, twisted and gnarled trees contain deep fissures which expose deep orange bands of wood within the tree.  The waxy needles are bunched in groups of five and form at the end of branches and also aid in water conservation.  The Bristlecone wood is resistant to insects, fungi and other pests which may shorten its lifespan, due to the density of its wood and relatively high resin content.  The harsh environment the tree grows in undoubtedly contributes.  Unlike most trees which rot with age, the wood of this tree is contorted and eroded from sand, high winds, rain and ice.  The age of these tree and harsh conditions cause the trees to twist and contort into other-worldly forms.

Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.
Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.

As with many species, the Bristlecone is uniquely qualified to thrive in its selected climate.  The tree maintains a shallow highly branched root system which not only brings in water from the soil around it, but also anchors the tree the the side of the mountain.  Its dense wood which protects from insects, also protects from the winds.  Although the Bristlecone pine population is stable, it is being monitored as a species of Least Concern due to its slow rate of growth, low reproduction rate, harsh environment and environmental concerns.

Natural distribution map for Pinus longaeva - Elbert L. Little, Jr., of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, and others
Natural distribution map for Pinus longaeva – Elbert L. Little, Jr., of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, and others

The age of these trees is story of these gnarled trees.  Although fantastic photographic subject, they are not particularly nice looking trees.  They tend to be rather short, not very green and in some cases appear to be mostly dead or dying.  However, they hold the top three on the list of oldest living  trees and are aged about 1000 years over the fourth ranked tree.  The third ranked tree, Prometheus, was cut down in by a graduate student in 1964 and the U.S Forest Service, because they did that sort of thing back then.  Prometheus was 4844 years old on its death and due to its location in Baker Nevada could be a trip in the next few years.  Over fifty years since the tree was killed, it is easy to second guess the decision with hind-sight and an environmental outlook that did not exist as much back then.  Science is not always clean and neat.

The second tree on the list is Methuselah at 4849 years of age at was the oldest tree until 2012 when an older tree was found.  The unidentified and unnamed oldest tree was 5,067 years old by Tom Harlan calculated its age in 2012.  This tree was around before the oldest pyramid of Egypt, the Pyramid of Djoser which was built in the 27th century B.C.

One a personal note, I can not remember when I didn’t know about the old trees in the white mountains.  I don’t remember my first visit, but I will never forget my last.  The wonderful part of these trees, is that their small environments are so remote and high in the mountains.  The trees are special and should be seen.  Walked through.  Appreciated.  Unlike other large tree groves, such as the Redwoods of Yosemite, the Bristlecone pine groves of the White Mountains, CA, are not as visited.  Which means that you can visit the trees and be alone without the throngs of people.  Finally, when you are done and turn back towards the car, if you are in the White Mountains, you get some of the most amazing view of the Owens valley below you.