Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Hardscrabble Bottom Campground
Hardscrabble Bottom Campground is a remote backcountry camping area along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, situated near the Green River. The campground features two designated sites (Hardscrabble A and B), each accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, designed to offer privacy with sites spaced to reduce visibility and noise from one another. Located at approximately 4,200 feet elevation, the campground provides scenic views of the Green River, nearby red rock cliffs, and expansive desert landscapes, with distant mesas visible on clear days. The sites are primitive, lacking potable water, shade, or wind protection, so campers must bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. A vault toilet is shared between the sites, though some campers report odors during warmer months. The terrain is a mix of sandy and rocky ground, suitable for tents but potentially challenging for securing stakes in sandy areas. Stargazing is exceptional due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with visitors often describing the night sky as “stunningly vibrant.”
Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the trail to Hardscrabble Bottom includes rugged sections, steep descents (notably Hardscrabble Hill), and sandy washes, making it unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with oversized campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with large campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, particularly in spring and fall. Hardscrabble Bottom’s riverside location and proximity to challenging trail sections make it a popular choice for adventurers seeking both beauty and rugged terrain.
White Rim Trail
The White Rim Trail is a legendary 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, renowned for its challenging terrain and breathtaking desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular among mountain bikers, follows the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering sweeping views of red rock canyons, towering buttes, and river valleys. Key highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with vistas of the Maze and Needles districts), and Murphy Hogback, known for its 360-degree panoramas. The trail features a mix of wide dirt roads, sandy stretches, and technical jeep trails with cliff exposure, particularly at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill (near Hardscrabble Bottom Campground), and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of approximately 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically taking 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in one day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including Hardscrabble Bottom Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best seasons are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer brings extreme heat and winter may bring closures.
Roadrunner Campground
Imperial County California Seal
Roadrunner Campground is the second-largest campground in the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area, located near Brawley, California, approximately 23 miles east along Highway 78. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), it is a popular destination for off-highway vehicle (OHV) enthusiasts, offering direct access to the expansive Algodones Dunes, which span 40 miles long and 5 miles wide, with dunes reaching up to 300 feet high. The campground is ideal for winter camping (October to May) due to milder temperatures, with peak visitation during holiday weekends like Christmas and New Year’s. Summer camping is not recommended as temperatures often exceed 100°F.
Location and Access
- Address: Gecko Road, Holtville, CA 92250
- Coordinates: Approximate latitude 32.942, longitude -115.139 (near Gecko Campground)
- Directions: From Brawley, take Highway 78 east for about 23 miles, turn onto Gecko Road, and continue to the end where Roadrunner Campground is located. From Yuma, AZ, take Interstate 8 west to Ogilby Road (Exit 166), drive north to Highway 78, then west to Gecko Road.
- Contact: (760) 337-4400
- Website: BLM Imperial Sand Dunes
Campground Features
- Layout: Features a single large loop of paved roads, making it accessible for RVs, trailers, and other vehicles.
- Amenities:
- Two vault toilets are available.
- No hookups, potable water, or trash services; campers must bring their own water and supplies and pack out all trash per BLM’s Leave No Trace policy.
- Fire rings may be available at some sites for campfires.
- Camping Style: Primitive, dry camping with a 14-day stay limit. Sites are first-come, first-served, with no reservations.
- Fees: A 7-day pass is approximately $75 (based on older data; confirm with BLM for current pricing).
Recreation and Activities
- OHV Riding: The primary activity, with hundreds of square miles of dunes for ATVs, motorcycles, and side-by-sides. Popular spots include Oldsmobile Hill and dunes south of Highway 78.
- Hiking and Exploration: The nearby North Algodones Dunes Wilderness is designated for non-motorized activities like hiking and horseback riding. The Alamo River Trail offers a scenic path along a canal.
- Fishing: Anglers with a valid California fishing license can fish in the Coachella Canal for species like channel catfish, largemouth bass, and flathead catfish.
- Nearby Attractions: The Hugh T. Osborne Lookout Park provides picnic facilities and panoramic dune views.
Visitor Information
- Best Time to Visit: Winter months (October to May) for cooler weather. Peak seasons bring crowds, so arrive early to secure a spot.
- Connectivity: Verizon and AT&T cell service are generally reliable, though coverage may vary.
- Safety Notes: Expect noise from OHV activity, especially during peak times. Sand dunes can be hazardous; off-roading experience and adherence to safety regulations are essential.
- Regulations: The area is well-regulated to ensure safety, unlike its less controlled reputation in the 1990s.
Tips for Campers
- Bring all necessary supplies, including water, firewood, and battery/solar-powered equipment, as the campground is primitive.
- Be prepared for a lively atmosphere due to OHV activity, particularly on weekends. For quieter experiences, consider weekdays or nearby primitive sites like Glamis Flats.
- Visit the Cahuilla Ranger Station (open weekends from mid-October to mid-April) for dune permits, information, or medical assistance.
- If seeking a quieter alternative, consider Gecko Campground, the largest in the area, located nearby on Gecko Road.
Roadrunner Campground offers a convenient base for exploring the Imperial Sand Dunes, with its paved loop and proximity to the dunes making it a favorite for RV campers and off-road adventurers seeking a thrilling desert experience.
Keyhole Campground
Keyhole Campground is located within the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area (Algodones Dunes), east of Brawley, California, in Imperial County. Access via Highway 78, turning onto Gecko Road, with the campground on the left. Coordinates: 32.9967, -115.1833. Elevation: ~200 feet. The Cahuilla Ranger Station is nearby for permits and information.
Overview
Managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Keyhole Campground is the smallest in the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area, featuring a single paved “keyhole” loop ideal for one large group or a few small groups. This primitive site caters to off-highway vehicle (OHV) enthusiasts with access to over 118,000 acres of dunes for off-roading. Best for winter camping (October–April) due to extreme summer heat (100°F+). The remote desert setting offers a rugged experience for those prioritizing OHV recreation.
Campsite Details
- Layout and Capacity: Single paved loop with no designated sites, suitable for tents and RVs. Flexible for group camping but offers minimal privacy.
- Amenities: Primitive with no restrooms, water, hookups, or trash services. Campers must bring all supplies and pack out waste. The paved loop reduces dust, but the desert environment remains dusty. The Cahuilla Ranger Station (open Friday–Sunday, mid-October to mid-April) offers permits but no direct amenities.
- Condition and Maintenance: Paved loop is well-maintained; BLM rangers patrol to enforce OHV rules, ensuring safety.
Recreational Opportunities
- OHV Riding: Access to vast dunes for ATVs, dune buggies, and motorcycles. Most areas south of Highway 78 are open, with some zones restricted for habitat protection.
- Other Activities: Sandboarding, hiking, and stargazing in clear desert skies. The North Algodones Dunes Wilderness offers vehicle-free hiking and horseback riding. Nearby Salton Sea (7 miles) and Anza-Borrego Desert State Park are accessible for day trips.
- Seasonal Considerations: Peak season is October–April; holiday weekends are busy. Summer is not recommended due to heat.
Rules and Regulations
- Permits: OHV permits required October 1–April 15 ($35/week in advance, $50/week onsite, $150/season).
- OHV Requirements: Green Sticker or highway license, spark arrester, and 8-foot whip mast with 6×12-inch flag required. Helmets mandatory for ATVs. Speed limit: 15 mph near camps, 35 mph on Gecko Road.
- Safety: No campfires outside designated areas; fire restrictions may apply May–October. Leash pets to protect from wildlife. No driving under the influence.
- Environmental Responsibility: Pack out all trash; dig out fire pits to prevent hazards.
Pros
- Prime location for OHV access to extensive dune trails.
- Paved loop reduces dust and supports RVs and tents.
- Ideal for group camping.
- Stunning desert scenery and excellent stargazing.
- Close to Cahuilla Ranger Station for permits and emergency services.
Cons
- Primitive with no amenities, requiring full self-sufficiency.
- Limited privacy due to open layout.
- Dusty conditions affect equipment and comfort.
- Summer heat makes camping impractical; winter is best.
- Noisy during peak OHV season.
Tips for Campers
- Bring 1 gallon of water per person per day and a dust cover for RV/tent.
- Check weather and avoid summer visits.
- Purchase OHV permits in advance.
- Bring portable shade, as natural shade is limited.
- Stock up in Brawley for supplies, as the campground is remote.
- Protect equipment from dust with covers.
Nearby Attractions
- Imperial Sand Dunes: Extensive OHV trails and sandboarding.
- Salton Sea State Recreation Area: 7 miles away for boating and fishing.
- Anza-Borrego Desert State Park: ~1 hour northwest for wildflowers and hiking.
- Ocotillo Wells SVRA: Additional OHV trails and dispersed camping.
Overall Impression
Keyhole Campground is a haven for OHV enthusiasts, offering direct access to the Imperial Sand Dunes and a rugged desert experience. Its primitive nature requires preparation, but the paved loop and group-friendly layout make it a solid choice for winter adventures. While not suited for those seeking amenities or quiet, it delivers thrilling recreation and desert beauty for self-sufficient campers.
Sources: Information compiled from BLM, Recreation.gov, TheDyrt.com, and Outdoorsy.com.
Ward Mining District – Nevada State Historic Marker
The Ward Mining District, located in White Pine County, Nevada, near the present-day town of Ely, is a significant chapter in the state’s mining history. Situated at over 8,000 feet elevation in Ward Gulch, the district was a bustling silver mining hub in the 1870s, marked by rapid growth, lawlessness, and eventual decline. Its iconic Ward Charcoal Ovens and remnants of a once-thriving town remain as testaments to its past. Below is a detailed history of the district, from its discovery to its modern legacy.
Discovery and Establishment (1872–1875)
The Ward Mining District was born in 1872 when freighters William Ballinger and John Henry discovered silver-lead ore in Ward Gulch, approximately 11 miles southwest of Ely. Named after B.F. Ward, a claim locator, the district quickly attracted prospectors. The townsite of Ward was established in 1873, and by 1875, the Martin White Company acquired the Paymaster Mine, the district’s most productive operation. One chamber in the Paymaster Mine reportedly yielded $1 million in silver, fueling a rush to the area.
Boom Years (1875–1878)
By 1877, Ward was the largest town in White Pine County, boasting a peak population of around 2,000. The town’s infrastructure grew rapidly, supporting two newspapers (The Ward Reflex and another unnamed paper), a Wells Fargo office, a city hall, and various businesses, including saloons, general stores, and hotels. The district’s social fabric was diverse, with a Chinatown community and a red-light district known as Reform Gulch. Notably, Ward lacked a church, and an abandoned brothel served as the schoolhouse, reflecting the camp’s rough character.
Mining operations relied heavily on six beehive-shaped Ward Charcoal Ovens, constructed in 1876 by Italian masons (carbonari). These ovens, located in Willow Creek Canyon, produced charcoal for smelters, each requiring timber from 5–6 acres per 10-day cycle. The ovens processed up to 35 bushels of charcoal per cord of wood, supporting the smelting of silver-lead ore from mines like the Paymaster, Martin White, and Young America.
The district’s early years were lawless, with claim jumping and disputes common. A vigilante group, the “601” committee, enforced order through extralegal means, including hangings, earning Ward a reputation as a “tough camp.” Racial tensions also surfaced, with a reported murder of a Chinese resident by a mob in 1876, highlighting the era’s social challenges.
Decline and Devastation (1878–1888)
The district’s prosperity was short-lived. By 1878, the quality and quantity of high-grade ore declined, leading to an exodus of residents to the nearby boomtown of Taylor. The population dropped to 250, and businesses struggled. In 1883, a devastating fire destroyed one-third of Ward, including the schoolhouse and city hall. Rather than rebuild, many residents salvaged materials and relocated structures to Taylor. The Ward post office, established in 1876, closed in 1888, marking the town’s effective abandonment. Total production from 1872 to 1890 was valued at approximately $960,000, primarily in silver, with lesser amounts of lead and copper.
Revivals and Modern Exploration (1906–1991)
The Ward Mining District experienced periodic revivals driven by new discoveries and technological advancements. In 1906, renewed exploration uncovered additional silver deposits, prompting small-scale activity. A more significant revival occurred in the 1960s when the Silver King Mining Company acquired the Ward Mine in 1962. By 1967, the mine produced 63,400 metric tons of low-grade ore containing gold, silver, copper, lead, and zinc, valued at nearly $2.5 million through 1967.
In the 1970s and 1980s, joint ventures between Silver King, Phillips Petroleum, and Gulf Minerals explored the district for a porphyry copper deposit. These efforts focused on skarn-hosted sulfide deposits but ultimately failed to identify a major copper system. Sporadic production continued until 1991, with cumulative output exceeding 182 kilotons of ore. The district’s total production included significant quantities of silver, gold, copper, lead, and zinc, reflecting its diverse mineralogy.
Geological Context
The Ward Mining District lies within the Robinson porphyry copper district, part of a mineralized belt in east-central Nevada. The area’s geology features limestone, dolomite, and quartzite intruded by Cretaceous and Tertiary plutons, forming skarn and vein deposits. Major mines, including the Paymaster and Ward, exploited silver-lead-zinc veins and replacement deposits, with gold and copper as byproducts. The Ward Charcoal Ovens, built to support smelting, highlight the district’s reliance on local timber resources, which were heavily depleted during the boom years.
Legacy and Modern Status
Today, Ward is a ghost town, with little remaining due to flash flooding and the relocation of structures in the 1880s. The Ward Charcoal Ovens, preserved as a Nevada State Historical Site since 1998, are the district’s most enduring feature. These 30-foot-tall, beehive-shaped structures, accessible via a graded dirt road, attract visitors and historians. A small cemetery, containing graves of early residents, also survives, though many headstones are weathered or missing.
The Ward Mining District remains an active exploration area, with modern mining companies investigating its potential for undiscovered deposits. The ovens and surrounding landscape, now part of Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park, serve as a reminder of Nevada’s mining heritage and the environmental impact of 19th-century industry. Visitors can explore the site, which includes interpretive signs detailing the district’s history and the ovens’ construction.
Nevada State Historic Marker no. 54
Nevada State Historical Markers identify significant places of interest in Nevada’s history. The Nevada State Legislature started the program in 1967 to bring the state’s heritage to the public’s attention with on-site markers. These roadside markers bring attention to the places, people, and events that make up Nevada’s heritage. They are as diverse as the counties they are located within and range from the typical mining boom and bust town to the largest and most accessible petroglyph sites in Northern Nevada Budget cuts to the program caused the program to become dormant in 2009. Many of the markers are lost or damaged.
Most of the markers across the state are large blue metal markers. However, there are a variety of other marker styles out there. For this guide they have been simplified into a few categories (blue, blue small, concrete, and stone). Sometimes, the markers are on buildings, fences, or metal stands.
Ward Mining District
The ghost town of Ward, in the foothills of the Egan Range, lies some eight miles west of here. Booming from 1876 until 1882, with a peak population of 1,500, Ward was somewhat of a lawless mining camp. Early killings did occur, but justice was meted out by the vigilante committee and the hanging rope.
A million dollars worth of silver was taken from a single chamber of the Ward mine, yet an abandoned house was used for the first school and no movement was ever started to build a church.
The town was abandoned by the late 1880s, but new discoveries and better mining methods prompted a resurgence of activity in 1906 and again in the 1960s.
STATE HISTORICAL MARKER No. 54
STATE HISTORIC PRESERVATION OFFICE
WHITE PINE MUSEUM, INC
Nevada State Historic Marker 54 Map
Summary
| Name | Ward Mining District |
| Location | White Pine County, Nevada |
| Latitude, Longitude | 39.0885, -114.7524 |
| Nevada State Historic Markers No. | 54 |
Sources
- Western Mining History: Ward Mining District
- Mindat.org: Ward Mining District, Nevada
- Nevada Expeditions: Ward, Nevada
- Nevada Appeal: Ward Charcoal Ovens
- Nevada Ghost Towns & Beyond: Ward Ghost Town
- Nevada State Parks: Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park
Esmeralda Star Newspaper
The Esmeralda Star was a pivotal publication in the early history of Aurora, a bustling mining town in Esmeralda County, Nevada, during the 1860s. Launched during the height of the region’s gold and silver boom, the newspaper served as a vital source of information, reflecting the social, political, and economic dynamics of a frontier community. This report explores the origins, operations, content, and eventual decline of the Esmeralda Star, drawing on historical records to provide a comprehensive overview of its role in Aurora’s history.
Origins and Establishment
The Esmeralda Star was founded on May 10, 1862, as a weekly newspaper in Aurora, a town established in 1860 following the discovery of rich gold and silver deposits. The paper was initiated by Edwin A. Sherman & Co., with Sherman serving as the primary publisher. The newspaper’s establishment coincided with Aurora’s rapid growth, as the town’s population swelled to approximately 6,000 by 1864, peaking at an estimated 10,000. The Star was a Republican-leaning publication, priced at six dollars per year, and initially published as a twenty-column weekly, measuring 21×28 inches.
Aurora’s unique geopolitical situation shaped the newspaper’s early years. Until a boundary survey in 1863 clarified that Aurora lay entirely in Nevada, the town was claimed by both California and Nevada, even serving as the county seat for Mono County, California, and Esmeralda County, Nevada, simultaneously. This dual governance added complexity to the Star’s operations, as it navigated competing political interests.
The press used for the Star had a storied history. Originally part of the El Dorado Times in Georgetown, California, it was relocated to Aurora in May 1862 via the Owen’s River route, narrowly escaping destruction by hostile Native American groups. The press was escorted by Colonel Evans and Lieutenant Noble of the Second Cavalry California Volunteers, highlighting the challenges of establishing a newspaper in a remote frontier region.
Content and Role in the Community
The Esmeralda Star newspaper covered a wide range of topics relevant to Aurora’s residents, including mining developments, local politics, business activities, and social events. As a Republican publication, it maintained a strong Unionist stance during the Civil War, a position that was not without risk in a region where secessionist sentiments and outlaws were prevalent. The newspaper’s editorials were noted for their independent tone and loyalty to the Union, earning it both support from loyalists and enmity from “copperheads” and secessionists.
The Star also played a significant role in promoting Aurora’s interests. It advocated for infrastructure improvements, such as the Esmeralda Toll Road, which connected Aurora to San Francisco and facilitated the import of supplies. The newspaper’s editorials often highlighted the town’s economic potential, aiming to attract investment and settlers to the mining district. Despite challenges such as scarce printers, the Star upgraded to a semi-weekly publication on June 24, 1863, reflecting its growing influence and the community’s demand for timely news.
The newspaper’s content was not limited to local matters. It included national news, particularly updates on the Civil War, as well as advertisements for local businesses, such as saloons, general stores, and mining equipment suppliers. The Star also published legal notices, marriage announcements, and obituaries, serving as a historical record of Aurora’s transient population. Its role as a community voice was critical in a town marked by rapid growth and social instability, including issues like horse theft and lawlessness.
Challenges and Operations
Operating a newspaper in Aurora presented significant logistical and social challenges. The town’s isolation, surrounded by rugged terrain, made the delivery of supplies like paper, ink, and type difficult, especially during harsh winters. The Star’s press and materials had to be shipped over treacherous routes, and the newspaper frequently faced shortages of skilled printers, which delayed its plans for more frequent publication.
Politically, the Star operated in a volatile environment. Its pro-Union stance made it a target for secessionist groups, and Sherman noted the risks of publishing a Union paper in a region with “armed bodies of secessionists.” Despite these threats, the newspaper maintained its editorial independence and avoided debt, even investing in new type to improve its print quality. This financial stability was attributed to the support of Aurora’s loyalist community, which valued the Star’s contributions to the town’s development.
The clarification of Aurora’s location in Nevada in 1863 prompted a change in the newspaper’s masthead to reflect its new status as part of Esmeralda County, Nevada. This adjustment underscored the Star’s adaptability to the region’s evolving political landscape.
Decline and Cessation
The Esmeralda Star ceased publication in March 1864, a victim of Aurora’s declining fortunes. The town’s shallow mines, most less than 100 feet deep, were exhausted by the late 1860s, leading to a mass exodus of residents. By 1870, Aurora’s population had plummeted, and the town’s infrastructure, including the Star’s printing facilities, was dismantled or repurposed. Many of Aurora’s buildings were stripped for materials, and the newspaper’s press likely met a similar fate.
The Star’s suspension paved the way for the Esmeralda Daily Union, which began publication on March 21, 1864, under the editorship of Rev. J.B. Saxton. However, the Union focused on different editorial priorities and did not directly continue the Star’s legacy. The Star’s brief but impactful run captured the vibrancy and challenges of Aurora’s boom years, leaving behind a valuable historical record of a fleeting frontier community.
Legacy and Historical Significance
The Esmeralda Star newspaper is remembered as the pioneer newspaper of Esmeralda County, encapsulating the spirit of Nevada’s early mining frontier. Its archives, though limited, provide historians with insights into the daily life, politics, and economy of Aurora during its peak. The newspaper’s commitment to Unionist principles and its role in fostering community identity highlight its importance as a cultural institution in a transient mining town.
Today, surviving copies of the Esmeralda Star are preserved in microfilm and archival collections, such as those accessible through the Library of Congress and the Chronicling America project. These records are invaluable for researchers studying Nevada’s mining history, journalism in the American West, and the socio-political dynamics of the Civil War era. The Star’s story also resonates in popular culture, with references to Aurora’s history appearing in works like Mark Twain’s Roughing It, as Twain briefly lived in Aurora in 1862.
Conclusion
The Esmeralda Star was more than a newspaper; it was a lifeline for Aurora’s residents, documenting the rise and fall of a quintessential mining boomtown. From its founding in 1862 to its closure in 1864, the Star navigated the challenges of frontier journalism with resilience and purpose. Its legacy endures in the historical record, offering a window into the fleeting but vibrant world of Aurora, Nevada, during the 1860s.
References
- Chronicling America, Library of Congress.
- History of Nevada, Myron Angel (1881).