Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
North Rim Campground
North Rim Campground, perched on the remote and rustic North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park at an elevation of 8,200–8,300 feet, is a scenic haven for campers seeking solitude and stunning views. With 90 mixed-use campsites, including 78 for tents, trailers, and RVs (up to 40 feet) and 12 tent-only walk-in sites, it operates from May 15 to October 15, with reservations required via Recreation.gov. Located 210 miles from the bustling South Rim, North Rim Campground offers a quieter, less crowded alternative, nestled in a dense forest of ponderosa pines and aspens. Its proximity to the canyon’s edge and trails like the Transept and North Kaibab makes it a prime base for exploring the North Rim’s dramatic vistas. Below is a detailed review of its setting, amenities, accessibility, and overall experience, paired with a vivid description of the Grand Canyon.
Description of the Grand Canyon
The Grand Canyon, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, is a colossal chasm carved by the Colorado River over millions of years, stretching 277 miles long, up to 18 miles wide, and over a mile deep. From the North Rim, at an elevation of 8,000–9,000 feet, the canyon reveals a distinct character compared to the South Rim. Its higher elevation and forested Kaibab Plateau setting create a greener, cooler landscape, with sweeping views of layered red, orange, and cream-colored rock formations that tell a geological story spanning nearly two billion years. The North Rim’s vistas, such as those from Bright Angel Point or Cape Royal, emphasize the canyon’s depth and vastness, with distant buttes and temples rising from the depths, often framed by lush meadows and aspen groves that turn golden in fall.
The canyon’s ecosystem teems with wildlife, including the endemic Kaibab squirrel, mule deer, and elusive mountain lions, while condors soar above the cliffs. The North Rim, receiving only 10–15% of the park’s visitors, offers a serene experience, with quieter trails and viewpoints that feel intimate despite the canyon’s immense scale. Sunrises and sunsets paint the rock layers in vibrant hues, and the night sky, unmarred by light pollution, is a stargazer’s paradise. The rugged terrain and remoteness demand respect, with monsoon thunderstorms (June–September) and early snows adding to the wild, untamed beauty.
Campground Details
Location and Accessibility
North Rim Campground is located at the end of State Highway 67, 41 miles south of Jacob Lake, AZ, and 210 miles (4.5 hours) from Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. Accessible via Highway 89A to Highway 67, it’s a remote destination with no direct road across the canyon. The campground is one mile north of the North Rim Visitor Center and Grand Canyon Lodge, connected by the scenic Transept Trail (1.2 miles). A free shuttle operates within the North Rim area, though most attractions, like Bright Angel Point, are within walking distance.
The campground features paved roads and parking spurs, but many sites are not level, with tight curves and narrow passages through trees, limiting larger RVs. Five sites (11, 14, 15, 16, 18) offer canyon views, while tent-only sites (T-1 to T-6) border the Transept Canyon rim. Three wheelchair-accessible sites are available, with nearby flush toilets and sinks, though the tent-only area has a vault toilet. The uneven terrain and walk-in tent sites (20–200 feet from parking) may pose challenges for those with mobility issues.
Amenities
Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring with grill, and access to shared bear-proof food storage lockers (required for food and scented items). The campground offers drinking water, flush toilets, and sinks throughout, with a vault toilet in the tent-only section. Coin-operated showers and laundry are available near the general store, though they may close during water restrictions. A free dump station and potable water for RVs are located near the entrance. The general store, a short walk away, stocks groceries, camping supplies, and firewood, while the Grand Canyon Lodge offers dining options, including sit-down and grab-and-go meals. No electric, water, or sewer hook-ups are available at sites.
Campsite Layout and Privacy
The campground is nestled in a thick ponderosa pine and aspen forest, providing ample shade but limited privacy due to closely spaced sites. Premium sites (11, 14, 15, 16, 18, 23, 24, 25, 26, 29, 31) offer filtered canyon views, while tent-only sites T-1 to T-6 border the Transept Canyon rim, providing scenic outlooks. “Site 18 was incredible—steps from the rim with a jaw-dropping view,” noted a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024). Sites are generally well-spaced, but some, like site 51, have layout issues, with trees obstructing pull-through access, requiring backing out (Campendium, 2024). The forested setting and quiet atmosphere enhance the experience, though noise from nearby campers can occasionally disrupt the peace.
RV and Tent Camping
The campground accommodates tents, RVs, and trailers up to 40 feet, though many sites are limited to 15–27 feet due to tight turns and trees. The maximum length includes both the RV/trailer and tow vehicle, and pop-outs or awnings may not fit at some sites. Tent-only sites require a short walk (20–200 feet) from the parking lot, accommodating up to six people per site. Three group sites (A, B, C) allow up to 25 people and three vehicles (max 12 feet). Generators are permitted during restricted hours (7–9 AM, 12–2 PM, 5–7 PM). Free parking is available, with overflow near the general store.
Reservation and Cost
Reservations are required from May 15 to September 15, bookable up to six months in advance via Recreation.gov, with sites costing $18–$50 per night (group sites up to $55). From October 16 to October 31, sites are first-come, first-served, weather permitting. Demand is high, and sites often sell out quickly. “Book at 7 AM sharp six months out, or check for cancellations daily,” advised a camper (PerfectCamp, 2024). A backcountry permit ($10 plus $8 per person/equine per night) is required for winter camping (snowshoeing or skiing in). Arizona uses Mountain Standard Time year-round, except in the Navajo Nation.
Activities and Attractions
North Rim Campground is a gateway to the North Rim’s serene trails and viewpoints. The Transept Trail (1.2 miles) connects the campground to the Grand Canyon Lodge and Bright Angel Point, offering rim-hugging views. The North Kaibab Trail, accessible via the Bridle Trail (0.8 miles), descends 14.2 miles to Phantom Ranch, requiring a backcountry permit for overnight hikes. Other trails, like the Uncle Jim and Widforss, offer scenic loops with canyon vistas. The Cape Royal Scenic Drive (25 miles) features stunning overlooks like Roosevelt Point. Mule rides, ranger-led programs, and stargazing events (including the June Star Party) are available. The nearby general store and lodge provide dining, a gift shop, and a visitor center with educational exhibits.
Wildlife and Safety
The Kaibab Plateau hosts unique wildlife, including the tassel-eared Kaibab squirrel, found nowhere else. Black bears, mule deer, and elk roam the area, requiring strict food storage in bear-proof lockers to prevent encounters. “Bears are rare, but squirrels and ravens will steal anything not locked up,” warned a camper (The Dyrt, 2023). Rangers enforce compliance with citations. Trash must be disposed of in bear-proof dumpsters, and recycling is available. The 8,200–8,300-foot elevation can cause altitude issues, and weather varies from warm summer days (60–80°F) to cold nights (30–50°F), with monsoon thunderstorms (June–September) and potential snow in May or October. Check forecasts and pack rain gear and warm layers.
Campground Map
Camper Feedback
Positives
- Location and Views: Campers rave about the proximity to the canyon rim. “Steps from our site to incredible views of Transept Canyon,” said a reviewer (Tripadvisor, 2024). Sites 11, 14, 15, 16, and 18 are prized for canyon views.
- Quiet Atmosphere: The campground is notably serene. “Incredibly quiet even when full—couldn’t hear neighbors at 8:30 PM,” noted a camper (The Dyrt, 2021).
- Amenities: Clean flush toilets, drinking water, and pay showers are highlights. “Bathrooms were spotless, and the store had everything we needed,” said a reviewer (PerfectCamp, 2024).
- Staff: Rangers and hosts, like Bill, are praised for their helpfulness. “Bill helped us navigate a tricky site—top-notch host!” (Campendium, 2024).
Negatives
- Site Layout: Some sites, like 51, have poor design. “Trees blocked the pull-through, making it tough to back out,” reported a camper (Campendium, 2024). Uneven sites can challenge trailer leveling.
- Reservations: Booking is competitive. “Sites sell out in minutes—be ready at 7 AM,” advised a reviewer (Hipcamp, 2024).
- Limited Amenities: Showers and laundry may close during water restrictions. “Coin machine ate our money, and the store staff weren’t helpful,” complained a camper (PerfectCamp, 2024).
- Access: The remote location (4.5 hours from the South Rim) deters some. “Worth it, but it’s a long drive,” noted a reviewer (Yelp, 2024).
Tips for Campers
- Book Early: Reserve six months in advance on Recreation.gov at 7 AM MST. Check daily for cancellations if you miss the window.
- Choose Rim Sites: Book sites 11, 14, 15, 16, 18, or T-1 to T-6 for canyon views. Verify RV/trailer fit on Recreation.gov.
- Bring Bikes: Bikes are ideal for navigating the North Rim’s trails and roads. “Biking to Bright Angel Point was a highlight,” said a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024).
- Wildlife Safety: Store all scented items in bear-proof lockers. A padlock adds security against theft or animals.
- Plan for Weather: Pack for cool nights, rain, and potential snow in May or October. A tarp or rainfly is essential during monsoons.
- Arrive Early: Check-in is at 12 PM MST; arrive early to settle in and explore nearby trails before sunset.
Overall Experience
North Rim Campground is a gem for those seeking a quieter, more intimate Grand Canyon experience. Its forested setting, rimside views, and access to trails like the Transept and North Kaibab make it a hiker’s paradise. The campground’s clean facilities, friendly staff, and proximity to the lodge enhance its appeal, though competitive reservations and occasional site layout issues are drawbacks. “The North Rim’s solitude and stunning vistas make this the best NPS campground I’ve stayed at,” summed up a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024). With early booking, careful site selection, and preparation for the remote location, North Rim Campground offers an unforgettable escape into the Grand Canyon’s majestic beauty.
Sources: Recreation.gov, NPS.gov, The Dyrt, Tripadvisor, Campendium, PerfectCamp, Hipcamp, GrandCanyonTrust.org, JamesKaiser.com
Racetrack Valley
Racetrack valley is a rough graded road which departs the Ubehebe Crater site and heads south into the desert. The road is rough, but easily passable in a regular car. However, when entering back country areas such as this it is always a good idea to have the insurance of a reliable vehicle, high clearance, four wheel drive, etc… Do yourself a huge favor and air down your tires if you are properly equipped to air up when the trip is over.
The racetrack valley road is a 25 miles one way trip to the playa. The road is grated, but can be heavily wash-boarded depending on the time of year, rain fall, etc…
Along the way, there are many side trips and alternate trails to help expand your visit.
As you leave Ubehebe Crater, you will be driving south and gradually gaining elevation. Take your time and enjoy the drive, if you are lucky you may see a big horn sheep herd. The road gradually gains in elevation and climbs through a Joshua Tree Forest.
Once you reach the pass, the road continues to drop in elevation all the way down to the playa. Continue straight through tea kettle junction, and bear left down the valley past the side road to the Lippincott mine, which is a great side trail.
As you continue past the road to the Lippincott mine the road drops down to the Racetrack Playa itself. The first stop is ‘The Grandstand’ which is an outcropping of rock located in the north west corner of the racetrack. The second stop is the parking area to hike towards the stones. Don’t try to hike to the stones from the first Grandstand parking lot, or you will be hiking significantly further.
The highlight of the trip, is a short hike to the sailing or racing stones. The start of the hike is the parking area at the southern end of the racetrack playa.
To reach the stones hike east from the parking lot across the playa towards the dark stone hillside. It is short FLAT, meaning really FLAT hike towards the stones. Be sure the check the temperatures before you leave, and bring lots of water. This is true with anything you might want to do in Death Valley. Don’t walk on the playa if it is wet or muddy.
At the end of the 30 miles road there is a small primitive campground for overnight visits. Be sure to check with the National Park Service for regulations of back country camping within the park.
Notoriety
On September 19th, 1969 a Michigan front end loading is found burning along the road near the playa. Apparently, Manson order the machine burned. Park Rangers were deployed to the Racetrack. The rangers followed a set of tire tracked which belonged to a Toyota Land Cruiser which was stolen by Manson. The follow up investigate lead to the arrest of Charles Manson at Barker Ranch on October 12th, 1969.
Racetrack Valley Trail Map
References
The Standard Mill – Bodie, CA
The Standard Mill, also known as the Standard Consolidated Mining Company Mill, was a pivotal element in the history of Bodie, California. The building is one of the most iconic images or Bodie, and dominates the landscape. Located in the Bodie Hills east of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, this mill played a crucial role in the processing of ore from one of the richest gold-mining areas in the American West.
Formation of the Standard Company
The Standard Company was founded in 1877, quickly becoming one of the most prominent and productive mines in the Bodie District. The company consolidated several claims, thereby gaining control over a large portion of the mineral-rich land. The successful extraction and processing of gold ore by the Standard Company were instrumental in Bodie’s transformation from a small camp into a bustling mining town.
Construction and Operation of the Standard Mill
The Standard Mill was constructed in 1877 to process the ore extracted from the company’s mines. It employed the latest technology of the time, using a combination of steam power, gravity, and chemical processes to extract gold from the ore. The mill utilized the amalgamation process, which involved crushing the ore to a fine powder and then using mercury to separate the gold. This process was later supplemented with cyanidation, which allowed for the extraction of gold from low-grade ore, significantly improving recovery rates.
Technical Details
Originally, as built, the mill is powered by large steam boilers. There boilers are fed using wood brought up to Bodie on the Bodie and Benton Railroad. The mill initially featured a 20-stamp system, but as operations expanded, it was upgraded to a 30-stamp system. Later, the mill is converted to Hydroelectric power from a plant built approximately thirteen miles from the town at Dynamo Pond.
Ore is loaded into the mill using one of two trestles. The primary trestle connects to the backside of the mill, and used to haul ore from the mines deep inside mines inside of the mountain. The secondary trestle is sloped to the north and is used to haul ore up sevens stories above the the loading room. From there, the ore is sorted with grizzly bars before being dropped into the powerful stamps.
The stamps, which were heavy iron rods, repeatedly crushed the ore into a fine powder. This powder was then passed over mercury-coated copper plates, where the gold particles would adhere to the mercury. The amalgam of gold and mercury was then collected and heated to separate the gold from the mercury.
Economic Impact and Contribution to Bodie’s Growth
The Standard Mill was the most significant factor in Bodie’s economic boom during the late 19th century. By 1879, Bodie’s population had swelled to approximately 10,000 people, with the Standard Company producing gold worth millions of dollars by today’s standards. The wealth generated by the mill attracted a diverse population, leading to the establishment of various businesses, schools, and a newspaper. During the height of operations, the stamps from the mill could be heard four miles away, and operated twenty-four hours per day, six days a week.
Challenges and Decline
Despite its success, the Standard Mill faced numerous challenges, including harsh weather conditions, fires, and fluctuating gold prices. The mill experienced several fires, the most devastating occurring in 1898, which necessitated extensive rebuilding. Additionally, as the richest veins of ore were exhausted, the profitability of the mill declined. The Standard Company ceased operations in 1913, marking the end of Bodie’s major gold production.
Preservation and Historical Significance
Today, the Standard Mill stands as a testament to Bodie’s rich mining history. It is one of the best-preserved examples of a 19th-century mill in California. The site is now part of Bodie State Historic Park, established in 1962, which aims to preserve the town and educate the public about its historical significance. The mill’s machinery, structures, and surrounding buildings offer valuable insights into the technological advancements and industrial processes of the time.
Tours are available several times per day for a tickets price of $6 a person. The hour long takes you past the Hoover House up past the stream plant to the trestle, which fed ore up the the top of the mill. From there, the tour route enters the machinery room and power room before dropping into the slucing room and clean up rooms.
The Standard Mill was a cornerstone of the town’s mining industry and played a vital role in its economic development. Through its innovative use of technology and its contribution to gold production, the mill significantly influenced the growth and prosperity of Bodie during its peak years. Today, it remains an important historical site, providing a window into the challenges and achievements of the mining era in the American West.
The Standard Mill Map
More Standard Mill Photographs
The Assassination Attempt of Virgil Earp
The assassination attempt on Virgil Earp, a key figure in the law enforcement of the Old West, occurred on December 28, 1881, in Tombstone, Arizona Territory. This event was part of the larger conflict known as the Earp-Cowboy feud, which culminated in the infamous Gunfight at the O.K. Corral.
Background
Virgil Earp, along with his brothers Wyatt and Morgan, was heavily involved in law enforcement in Tombstone. The town, at the time, was a hotbed of tension between the Earps and the Cowboys, a loosely organized group of outlaws and rustlers. The Gunfight at the O.K. Corral on October 26, 1881, where Virgil played a leading role as Tombstone’s town marshal, escalated these tensions. In this shootout, three Cowboys—Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and Billy Clanton—were killed, while Virgil and his brothers emerged relatively unscathed. This event intensified the animosity between the Earps and their enemies.
The Assassination Attempt
On the night of December 28, 1881, Virgil Earp was ambushed while walking down Allen Street in Tombstone. He was on his way from the Oriental Saloon to the Cosmopolitan Hotel, where he and his wife were staying. As Virgil passed by the intersection of Fifth and Allen streets, he was shot from behind with a shotgun. The blast struck his left arm and shoulder, shattering his humerus bone and causing severe injuries.
Despite the severity of his wounds, Virgil survived the attack, though he was permanently maimed. His left arm was nearly useless for the rest of his life. The attack on Virgil Earp was widely believed to be an act of revenge by the Cowboys for the events at the O.K. Corral. However, no one was ever officially charged with the crime. Ike Clanton and his associates, who had been involved in the earlier conflict with the Earps, were prime suspects, but insufficient evidence and the chaotic nature of Tombstone’s justice system at the time made it difficult to pursue any legal action.
Aftermath
The attack on Virgil Earp further inflamed the feud between the Earps and the Cowboys. Just a few months later, on March 18, 1882, Morgan Earp, another of Virgil’s brothers, was shot and killed in another ambush. This event prompted Wyatt Earp to lead a vendetta ride against the Cowboys, resulting in a series of violent encounters and killings.
Virgil Earp, despite his injury, continued to serve as a lawman. He left Tombstone in 1882 and eventually settled in California, where he served as a law enforcement officer in Colton and other areas. He lived until 1905, passing away at the age of 62.
The assassination attempt on Virgil Earp remains a significant event in the history of the American West, symbolizing the violent and often lawless nature of frontier life during that era.
Testimony of R. J. Campbell in the Preliminary Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case Campbell
Testimony of R. J. Campbell
in the Preliminary Hearing in the Earp-Holliday Case,
Heard before Judge Wells Spicer
November 23, 1881
On this twenty-third day of November, 1881, on the hearing of the above entitled cause, on the examination of Wyatt Earp and J. H. Holliday; R. J. Campbell of Tombstone, a witness of lawful age, being produced and sworn, deposes and says as follows:
R. J. Campbell, Tombstone, Arizona Territory, Clerk of the Board of Supervisors, of Cochise County, Arizona Territory.
(Q) [Question not written.]
(A) I know Ike Clanton and know William Clanton and Frank McLaury, and only knew Tom McLaury by sight. Had no acquaintance with him.
(Q) Did you know the reputation of the three former during their lives and that of Ike Clanton for coolness and courage and for expertness and dexterity in the use of firearms?
[Prosecution objects. Overruled.]
(A) The reputation of Frank McLaury was a brave and courageous man and that he was an expert in the use of firearms. Ike Clanton is the same. William Clanton, I can’t say for him, only by reputation, that he was an expert in the use of firearms. I did not know Tom McLaury, only by sight.
(Q) [Question not written.]
(A) I saw all of them on that day. I came down the street [in] the morning and someone told me that the Earp boys and Ike Clanton had had some trouble.1 I went to Wallace’s Court, and Wyatt Earp went in ahead of me. He took a seat on a bench inside of the railing. Ike Clanton was sitting on the outside of the railing. A few minutes after I got in, Wyatt Earp looked towards Ike Clanton and said, “You have threatened my life two or three times and I have got the best of evidence to prove it, and I want this thing stopped!”, or words to that effect. Some other conversation ensued that I don’t remember, when Wyatt Earp walked up to the railing and facing Ike Clanton said, “You cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, and you know that I know you are a cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, you’ve threatened my life enough, and you’ve got to fight!”, and Ike Clanton made the remark, “Fight is my racket, and all I want is four feet of ground!”
(Q) [Question not written.]
(A) Morgan Earp and Ike Clanton were having an excited conversation about arresting and knocking him down. Ike turned to Morgan Earp and said, “If you fellows had been a second later, I would have furnished a Coroner’s Inquest for the town!”
(Q) What did [you] gather from the context of the conversation that Ike Clanton meant by, “a second” later second later than what?
[Prosecution objects. Sustained.]
CROSS-EXAMINATION
(Q) Regarding Ike in court, and his wounds, “if any?”
(A) I don’t know what he was there for, only from hearsay. I understood he was there under arrest for carrying concealed weapons. He was holding a handkerchief to the side of his head. Did not pay any attention to it. Did not see him with any firearms there. I did not see Wyatt Earp have any firearms [in courtroom]. Morgan Earp, I think, had a rifle in his hands and a six-shooter. Did not see Judge Wallace there during the conversation just related. There were a great many people there and I am not positive as to who were there. Did not see Frank McLaury there, nor William Clanton, nor Tom McLaury.
(Q) Are Virgil Earp, Wyatt Earp, Morgan Earp, and Doc Holliday by reputation men of cool courage and experts in the use of firearms?
(A) They are.
(Q) How long had you known Frank McLaury on October 26th, last?
(A) Six months. His reputation [as stated in examination in chief] was a general reputation.
(Q) As to Ike’s remark about “Coroner’s Inquest for the town?
(A) The remark was made in Judge Wallace’s courtroom, and just after a conversation between Morgan Earp and Ike Clanton as to his arrest for carrying concealed weapons. It was said in the presence of a number of persons. A man called Coleman was there. I met him at the door on going in the room. I can’t remember the names of any others. It was stated in an ordinary tone of voice and there were other parties as near to him as I was.
(Q) I will ask, if, when Ike Clanton was in Wallace’s courtroom under arrest as you have stated, was that the time that Wyatt Earp said to Ike Clanton: “You cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, and you know you are a cattle thieving son-of-a-bitch, you’ve got to fight!”?
(A) Yes sir. That was the time.
(Q) Before you heard what you stated in your last answer, did you hear Ike Clanton say anything at that place and time?
(A) This conversation took place just after I got in; and when I got in, Morgan Earp and Ike Clanton were talking excitedly.
(Q) Who was talking to Ike Clanton when he says, “Fight is my racket,” as you stated [before]?
(A) Wyatt Earp was talking to him.
(Q) When did you see Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and William Clanton?
(A) The last time I saw of them, they were going into the O.K. Coral, before the difficulty.
(Q) You stated in your examination in chief that Wyatt Earp told Ike Clanton, in Wallace’s courtroom, that he, Clanton, had threatened his life enough. What reply, if any, did Clanton make to that?
(A) He made no reply that I heard.
[Signed] R. J. Campbell