Tag: Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park, located in southeastern Utah, is a stunning expanse of rugged, colorful landscapes carved by the Colorado River and its tributaries. The park is renowned for its dramatic canyons, towering mesas, and intricate rock formations, offering breathtaking views from its various overlooks and hiking trails. Divided into four districts—Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the riverside area—the park provides diverse experiences, from expansive vistas to remote, challenging backcountry adventures. The unique geology and rich cultural history make Canyonlands a captivating destination for outdoor enthusiasts and those seeking solitude in a magnificent natural setting.

Labyrinth Campground

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Labyrinth Campground is a remote backcountry camping area along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district. It consists of two designated sites (Labyrinth A and B), each accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, designed to provide privacy with sites spaced to minimize visibility and noise from one another. Located at approximately 4,300 feet elevation near the Green River, the campground offers stunning views of the surrounding desert landscape, including red rock cliffs, canyons, and the river’s winding bends.

The sites are primitive, with no potable water, shade, or wind protection, requiring campers to bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. A vault toilet is shared between the sites, though campers have noted occasional odors in warmer months. The terrain is sandy and rocky, suitable for tents but potentially challenging for securing stakes due to loose soil in some areas. Stargazing is exceptional due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with visitors describing the night sky as “spectacularly clear.” Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the trail to Labyrinth includes rugged sections and sandy washes unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with oversized campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with large campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, especially in spring and fall. Labyrinth’s proximity to the Green River and its serene, isolated setting make it a favorite for those seeking a tranquil backcountry experience.

White Rim Trail

The White Rim Trail is a renowned 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, celebrated for its challenging terrain and breathtaking desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular among mountain bikers, traces the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering panoramic views of red rock canyons, towering buttes, and river valleys. Key highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with views of the Maze and Needles districts), and Murphy Hogback, known for its 360-degree vistas. The trail features a mix of wide dirt roads, sandy patches, and technical jeep trails with cliff exposure, particularly at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of approximately 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically taking 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in one day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including Labyrinth Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best seasons are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer brings extreme heat and winter may bring closures.

White Crack Campground

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Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

White Crack Campground is a remote backcountry camping area in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, located along the White Rim Trail. This single campsite, accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, is one of the most isolated and scenic along the trail, offering unparalleled views of the Maze, Needles, and Island in the Sky districts. Perched at approximately 4,500 feet elevation, the site features expansive vistas of dramatic red rock formations, deep canyons, and distant mesas, with Candlestick Tower and the Colorado River’s gooseneck bends visible on clear days. The campground is primitive, with no potable water, shade, or wind protection, requiring campers to bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. A vault toilet is available, but reviews note it can be odor-prone in warmer months. The terrain is rocky and uneven, suitable for tents but challenging for securing stakes due to the hard ground. Stargazing is exceptional due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with campers describing the night sky as “otherworldly.” Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the road to White Crack is rugged and unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with oversized campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, especially in spring and fall. The site’s isolation and proximity to trail’s end make it a coveted spot for those seeking solitude.

White Rim Trail

The White Rim Trail is a legendary 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, renowned for its challenging terrain and jaw-dropping desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular among mountain bikers, follows the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering sweeping views of red rock canyons, buttes, and river valleys. Notable highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with its panoramic views of three park districts), and Murphy Hogback, which provides 360-degree vistas. The trail’s terrain varies from wide dirt roads to sandy stretches and technical jeep trails with cliff exposure, particularly at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of about 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically taking 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in a single day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including White Crack Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best times to visit are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer brings extreme heat and winter may bring closures.

Gooseberry Campground

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Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah
Canyonlands National Park is located in the south eastern corner of the state of Utah

Gooseberry Campground is a remote backcountry camping area located along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district. The campground consists of two designated sites (Gooseberry A and B), each accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, designed to provide privacy with sites spaced to minimize visibility and noise from one another. Situated at approximately 4,600 feet elevation, the campground offers stunning views of the surrounding desert landscape, including red rock canyons, mesas, and distant buttes, with the La Sal Mountains visible on clear days. The sites are primitive, lacking potable water, shade, or wind protection, so campers must bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. Each site shares a vault toilet, though reviews mention occasional odors, especially in warmer months. The terrain is rocky and hard-packed, suitable for tents but challenging for securing stakes. Stargazing is a highlight due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with campers noting the night sky’s clarity as a standout feature. Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the trail’s rugged roads are unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with oversized campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with large campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, particularly in spring and fall. Gooseberry’s location near the trail’s midpoint makes it a strategic stop for multi-day White Rim Trail adventures.

White Rim Trail

The White Rim Trail is a renowned 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, celebrated for its challenging terrain and breathtaking desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular with mountain bikers, traces the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering panoramic views of red rock canyons, towering buttes, and river valleys. Key highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with views of the Maze and Needles districts), and Murphy Hogback, known for its 360-degree vistas. The trail features a mix of wide dirt roads, sandy patches, and technical jeep trails with some cliff exposure, notably at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of approximately 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically requiring 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in one day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including Gooseberry Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best seasons are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer is extremely hot and winter may bring closures.

John Wesley Powell

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John Wesley Powell, a remarkable American explorer, geologist, and ethnologist, was born on March 24, 1834, in Mount Morris, New York. His expeditions through the uncharted territories of the American West not only added to scientific knowledge but also provided invaluable insights into the land’s geological and cultural diversity. Powell’s legacy as a pioneer of exploration and his tireless efforts in promoting conservation measures have left an indelible mark on American history.

Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.
Powell served as the second Director of the United States Geological Survey, a post he held from 1881 to 1894. This photograph dates from early in his term of office.

Early Life and Education

Powell grew up in rural New York, where his love for nature and the outdoors was nurtured from an early age. Although he lost his right arm in a childhood accident, Powell’s determination and thirst for adventure were undeterred. He developed a keen interest in natural sciences and geography and pursued higher education at Illinois College and later at Oberlin College, where he focused on geology.

Grand Canyon Expeditions

Powell’s most famous and daring expedition was his 1869 journey down the Colorado River, known as the Powell Geographic Expedition. With a team of nine men, Powell set out to explore the largely uncharted canyons and rapids of the Colorado River and gather valuable scientific data. The expedition faced numerous hardships, including treacherous rapids, scarce food supplies, and hostile encounters with Native American tribes. Miraculously, Powell and his crew successfully navigated the treacherous river and completed the journey, providing unprecedented knowledge of the Grand Canyon and its geological formations.

First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. - E. 0. Beaman - War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 - ca. 1874)
First camp of the John Wesley Powell expedition, in the willows, Green River, Wyoming, 1871. – E. 0. Beaman – War Department. Office of the Chief of Engineers. Powell Survey. (1869 – ca. 1874)

Powell’s subsequent expeditions further solidified his reputation as a fearless explorer. He embarked on multiple journeys across the American West, including explorations of the Green and Colorado Rivers, the Rocky Mountains, and the Uinta Mountains. Powell’s meticulous record-keeping and scientific observations greatly expanded the understanding of the region’s geology, hydrology, and ethnography.

Scientific Contributions

Powell’s expeditions were not merely adventurous endeavors but also scientific ventures aimed at advancing knowledge in various fields. He published numerous papers and reports detailing his findings, including “Exploration of the Colorado River of the West and its Tributaries” and “Canons of the Colorado.” These works significantly contributed to the geological understanding of the American West, shaping subsequent research and studies in the region.

Additionally, Powell’s expertise in ethnology led him to conduct extensive research on Native American tribes. He documented their cultures, languages, and customs, recognizing the importance of preserving their heritage. His ethnographic studies formed a crucial foundation for future anthropological research in the United States.

Conservation Advocacy

John Wesley Powell was not only a scientist and explorer but also an early advocate for conservation. Recognizing the fragile nature of the American West’s ecosystems, he became a vocal proponent of sustainable land use practices and preservation efforts. Powell believed that the arid region’s limited water resources necessitated careful management and planning.

In 1879, Powell presented his influential “Report on the Lands of the Arid Region of the United States” to Congress. This groundbreaking report emphasized the need for responsible irrigation and land development strategies, urging policymakers to consider the long-term consequences of uncontrolled resource exploitation. Powell’s report laid the groundwork for the eventual establishment of the U.S. Forest Service and the Bureau of Reclamation, both crucial agencies in land and water management.

Legacy and Impact

John Wesley Powell’s contributions to exploration, science, and conservation continue to resonate today. His expeditions not only unveiled the wonders of the American West but also inspired future generations of explorers and scientists. Powell’s emphasis on interdisciplinary research and his understanding of the intricate relationships between humans and their environment remain

References

Shafer Trail

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The Shafer Trail, located in the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah, is a renowned backcountry road celebrated for its dramatic scenery and challenging terrain. Spanning approximately 19 miles, the trail descends 1,500 feet through a massive sandstone cliff via a series of tight switchbacks, connecting the mesa top to the canyon floor and linking with the White Rim Road and Potash Road. Its history reflects a rich tapestry of human activity, evolving from ancient pathways to a modern recreational route.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Early Use by Native Americans

Long before modern roads, the Shafer Trail began as a route used by Native Americans to access resources on the mesa top and travel to the Colorado River below. These early inhabitants of the region navigated the rugged terrain to gather materials and move between seasonal locations, establishing a path that would later be adapted for other purposes. The trail’s origins as a Native American route highlight its significance as a corridor through the challenging canyon landscape.

Ranching Era and the Shafer Family

In the early 20th century, the trail was adapted by Mormon pioneer settlers, particularly the Shafer family, for whom it is named. Starting in 1916, John “Sog” Shafer used the trail to move cattle between summer pastures on the mesa top and winter grazing grounds on the White Rim sandstone below. Shafer and other ranchers improved the trail, widening and stabilizing it to make it safer for livestock, though it remained narrow and perilous, with animals occasionally slipping to their deaths. These improvements laid the groundwork for later developments, and many trails in the Island in the Sky district bear the names of families who worked them.

Uranium Boom and Road Expansion

The 1950s marked a significant transformation for the Shafer Trail during the uranium boom in the American Southwest. The Atomic Energy Commission widened and extended the trail to accommodate trucks transporting uranium-bearing ore from mines in the Triassic Chinle Formation to processing facilities in Moab. This period saw many backcountry roads in the Moab area, including the Shafer Trail, upgraded to support the mining industry, leaving visible scars across the desert landscape. The trail’s role in uranium transport underscores its importance to the region’s industrial history.

Transition to Recreation

With the establishment of Canyonlands National Park in 1964, the Shafer Trail’s function shifted from ranching and mining to recreation. Ranchers were granted a ten-year extension to continue operations, but by the mid-1970s, the trail was primarily used by visitors seeking adventure. The National Park Service improved the road to make it safer for recreational use, though it remains unpaved and challenging, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles with low-range gear (4LO). Today, the trail attracts hundreds of visitors annually for its thrilling switchbacks and breathtaking views of Canyonlands’ sculpted pinnacles, buttes, and the Colorado River.

Modern-Day Significance

The Shafer Trail is now an iconic backcountry drive, celebrated for its scenic beauty and historical significance. It offers access to notable sites like the Shafer Canyon Overlook, where visitors can view the trail’s switchbacks and the surrounding canyon landscape, and Thelma and Louise Point, famous for its appearance in the 1991 film’s final scene. The trail also connects to other recreational routes like the White Rim Road and is popular among hikers, mountain bikers, and photographers for its wildflowers, petroglyphs, and dinosaur tracks. Its challenging conditions, including steep drops and sharp rocks, require careful preparation, and it can become impassable during wet or snowy weather.

Conclusion

From a Native American pathway to a cattle trail, a uranium transport route, and now a premier recreational destination, the Shafer Trail encapsulates the evolving human relationship with Canyonlands’ rugged landscape. Named after the Shafer family and shaped by centuries of use, it remains a testament to the region’s cultural, industrial, and natural history, offering visitors an unforgettable journey through one of America’s most striking national parks.

Shafer Trail map