Government Holes

The tale of the the Old Mojave Road is the story of water, the more important resource in the desert.  Along the Old Mojave Road trail is the Government Holes water stop.  Long abandoned, the site still contains a wind mill, a corral and a few watering holes.  This quiet remote location was even the site of a gunfight.

Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.
Government Holes in the central section of the Old Mojave Road.

The story of the American West is the story ongoing and continued conflicts between the Native Americans and settlers and this holds was also true for the Mojave desert.  In 1858 the Mohave tribe attack various wagon trains, which prompted a military response from the U.S. Government. Major William Hoffman and over 600 men were dispatched to the Colorado River which is the  homeland of the Mohave  Tribe.  Major Hoffman demand the Mohave surrender to which the tribe relented.  Major Hoffman next established a post on the eastern bank of the Colorado River which developed into Fort Mojave.  To support this new fort, regular supply wagon trains from Los Angeles were required to travel east through the Mojave Desert until the Civil War.  Improvements to the wagon trail included a water stop which became known as Government Holes.

By the 1870s, steamboats on the Colorado supplied Fort Mojave and the Mojave Road became a highway for miners, prospectors, and ranchers.  In 1883 the Southern Pacific / Atlantic & Pacific Railroad took up the majority of traffic.  Throughout the 1800’s the Mojave was an open range, and cattle and livestock grazing was a source of money and food.  As with many human endeavors, smaller operations consolidate into larger companies.  These companies worked to claim ownership of land and most importantly water rights.

Homesteaders were in conflict with the Cattle Companies, when the homesteaders stake claims on the best grazing territory.  Homesteaders crops were trampled by the cattle, and the cattle companies denied the homesteaders access to water.  The homesteaders responded by taking their portion of beef from the herd.  All of this game to a head when a gun fight broke out between Matt Burts and J. W. “Bill” Robinson on November 8th, 1925.  Both men died in the fight, and may be one of the last of the “old west” gunfights and the plot of a lot of Hollywood movies.

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Travelers Monument

When travelling the Old Mojave Road, there is a tradition to pick and carry a rock, and carry the rock to the Travelers Monument.  The monument is located about half way along the Old Mojave Road, just south of the town of Baker in the dry soda lake.

The Travelers Monument located on the dry soda lake found on the Old Mojave Road
The Travelers Monument located on the dry soda lake found on the Old Mojave Road

Prior to our trip, my son took great time choosing the rock that we would contribute to the monument.  There were at least three re-picks for him to find the perfect stone.   Throughout our travels on that day, he took great delight in watching the stone which was on the floor below his feet.  It was a long day of waiting for him.

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Zzyzx Road – Soda springs

Located south of Baker, CA on the edge of a large soda dry lake bed in the Mojave, Zzyzx Road is a short road which leads from the I-15 highway to a soda  spring with an eclectic history.   The springs were the site of a prehistoric quarry and early human activity undoubtedly taking shelter from the heat in the Oasis which is the spring site.

ake Tuendae, an Oasis in the Mojave Desert is found at the end of Zzyzx Road off the I-15. Photograph by James L Rathbun
ake Tuendae, an Oasis in the Mojave Desert is found at the end of Zzyzx Road off the I-15. Photograph by James L Rathbun

During the 1860s, the springs and surrounding areas host a U.S. Army camp which serviced the Mojave Road as Fort Soda Springs and a local train depot for the Tomopah and Tidewater Railroad.

Curtis Howe Springer

In 1944, a radio evangelist, self proclaimed medical doctor and methodist minister Curtis Howe Springer filed a mining claim for 12,800 acres of land south of Baker, CA and along the coast of the large dry soda lake.  The 8 miles by 3 miles track of land included the old army fort and the train depot.  Mr. Springers goal was to establish a “Health Spa” for anyone who felt the need to improve their Health.  The cost of a visit was free of charge, but undoubtedly he pressured his visitors to make “donations” to his organization.

The area was developed over time, and Springer named the site after his own invented word Zzyzx, as to be the last word in the dictionary, and the phrase the “last word in” was used as part of his marketing campaigns for all his endeavors.  The location was built up over a period of 30 years (1944 – 1974) starting with a 20 tent camp which soon turned into a primitive concrete settlement built using laborers recruited from Los Angeles “Skid Row”.  The warm soda springs were of his own manufacture which used boilers and man made pools for this natural healing site.

Years of development Zzyzx Mineral springs featured 60 room lodging, a radio station, mineral spa, a private airport dubbed the “Zyport” and or coarse a church.  In addition, Curtis Springer would peddle his cures using his national and international radio broadcasts which promised cures for almost every disease.  In the late 1960’s, Mr Springer gained the attention of the Federal Government for building homes for large doners to his “Ministry”.  Since the original Mine claim never transfer ownership of the land to him, but rather gives him mineral rights, and he had not produce any profit from mining he was not entitled to development the land, because he did not own the land.

The dry soda lake located in the Mojave National Preserve and found next to Zzyzx Road offers a surreal view of the area.  Photograph by James L Rathbun
The dry soda lake located in the Mojave National Preserve and found next to Zzyzx Road offers a surreal view of the area. Photograph by James L Rathbun

After loosing in court, he was evicted from the site in 1974, and in 1976 the California State University system incorporate the site into their field studies and research programs which, I am sure, has provided a far better use of the property.  The property continues to operative within the Mojave National Preserve as the Desert Studies Center by the California State University. Visitors are welcome to tour the area, there are picnic tables and a self guided tour around Lake Tuendae.

Resources

Mojave Goldfish

Over Presidents day weekend, my wife and I were travelling back from Big Bear, CA to our house after a visit with family towards our home in Las Vegas.  Frequently, my wife will point out an old road or mine and comment that we need to take that trail someday.  During out drive home, we were talking about the mining district in Mountain Pass and the Evening Star mine.  On this journey, we chanced upon the ultra rare Mojave Goldfish.

This is one of the great reasons for owning a 4×4 and the Mojave Desert is a prime location to explore.

A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert.. Photograph by James L Rathbun
A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert. Photograph by James L Rathbun

So, we exited the I-15 travelling north on Baily road near the Kokoweef mine.  Typically, I have a route mapped out ahead of time, but a spur of the moment decision left our route to happenstance.   We drove straight off the off ramp and headed up the hill.  Immediately I sensed the I took the wrong route, but since we were exploring I just drove on, you never know what you will find.  Soon, we found a private property sign, and opt towards a road to the left.  I found 4×4 low in the transfer case and we climbed a short hill.  Upon cresting the hill, I noticed something metal down the the left.  I road the gears down in low until we reached the small canyon where I made a tight left towards the metallic object I saw from the top of the hill.

Within a quarter of a mile, I found an juniper tree with a metal water trough.  These are not uncommon in the mojave and can be found throughout the dessert.  I parked the jeep to investigate and was shocked…

The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natual environment. Photo by James L Rathbun
The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natural environment. Photo by James L Rathbun

We stumbled upon Goldfish, in the Mojave Desert and these things were pretty big.  I mean, I have eaten trout smaller than some of these.  Goldfish are used to keep the algae in check inside the water trough.  An elegant solution to a problem I didn’t think existed, but that makes sense.  The water trough was plumbed with a PVC pipe to bring the spring water to the trough.  The overflow, did just that and the rocks on either wide of the trough edge allow for animals to escape the tank.  An endless supply of fresh water would keep the urea concentrations down, so the fish grow into their environment.

My biggest question is that in a remote area with a lot of preditors, why are these fish alive?  I thought that an oportunistic coyote, fox or raven would make quick work of this exposed tank, but these large fish prove they have been here for time.  Regardless a very fun find and a true 4×4 destination.

Achy-Breaky

Achy-Breaky is a very difficult, trail which circumnavigates Watkins Peak in San Bernardino County, California. This trail is one of many on the Stoddard Wells OHV.  The trail requires a well built 4×4 and a GPS to even stay on the trail which a network of difficult to navigate trails.

California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail
California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail

Located south of Barstow, in the Stoddard Wells OHV Area. The trail is quite a popular destination for people who are looking to test their 4×4, and not suitable for stock vehicles. Skid plates, differential lockers, high ground clearance and a capable truck are required to navigate the desert terrain with numerous steep, rocky climbs. Tire damage is a real possibility from the large, sharp rocks. Although technically challenging, the trail does not offer much in the scenery department, unless you hike up towards to top of the peak.

The trail is best run from November to March each year due to the high heat of the Mohave Desert. More information on Stoddard Wells OHV Area can be found at the Barstow Field office of the Bureau of Land Management at 760-252-6000.

Arcy-Breaky Trail Map

References