Tag: Mojave National Preserve

Evening Star Mine

Posted on by

The Evening Star Mine (also known as the Evening Star Tin Mine, Maynard Mine, Bernice Mine, or Rex Tin Mine) is located in the Mescal Mining District at the western base of the Ivanpah Mountains, San Bernardino County, California—within what is now Mojave National Preserve. It sits at approximately 4,961 feet elevation, about 1.5 miles south of the Standard No. 1 Mine, near Cima and not far from the California-Nevada border (outside Primm, NV)..

Evening Star Mine, Mojave, California - 2015 Photo by James L Rathbun
Evening Star Mine, Mojave, California – 2015 Photo by James L Rathbun

Discovery and Early Development (1935–1940)

The mine began modestly in 1935 as a copper prospect staked by lifelong desert miner J. Riley Bembry. Bembry, born in Oklahoma in 1899 and a WWI veteran, had prospected extensively in the eastern Mojave since the late 1920s or early 1930s. Within about a year, he sold the claims to Trigg L. Button and Clarence Hammett of Santa Ana, California. They began sinking the No. 1 shaft.

In 1940, Vaughn Maynard of Santa Ana purchased the claims. The site was developed as a combination surface-underground operation on a small deposit.

Peak Operations and Production (1941–1944)

The mine entered its main productive phase during World War II, driven by demand for strategic minerals. In 1941, the Tin Corporation of America leased the property. They continued deepening the shaft and, in June 1942, shipped 25 tons of ore to the Tin Processing Corporation in Texas City, Texas.

In 1943, Carl F. Wendrick, Jr. (owner of Steel Sales and Service Company of Chicago, Illinois) leased the mine. He secured a government loan, employed about eight men, constructed a larger headframe, and built a mill at Valley Wells. Operations ran primarily from 1939 to 1944 (with the most intensive work in the early 1940s).

Production and Significance

The Evening Star Mine was the only producer of tin ore (cassiterite, or tin oxide) in the eastern Mojave Desert—and reportedly the only one in the broader Mojave. It yielded over 400 tons of tin ore during its life. Several tons of tin concentrates (containing 35.96% tin) were sold to the U.S. government stockpile in Jean, Nevada, just across the border. The deposit also carried minor amounts of copper, tungsten, zinc, and possibly gold.

Nearby claims (just west) produced about 1,000 tons of tungsten ore under a separate lease (1939–1940).

Unique Engineering Feature

The mine stands out for its 60-foot headframe, which featured a crusher mounted directly on top—one of the few such setups in the Mojave. Ore fed from the headframe into a sorting structure of three tiered towers (the lowest serving as an ore bin). This design was practical for the remote, small-scale operation.

Closure and Current Status

Production ended around 1944 as wartime demand eased and the deposit proved limited. The site was never a large-scale operation but exemplified the many independent, small-scale ventures that dotted the desert.

Today, the Evening Star Mine is a well-preserved historic site within Mojave National Preserve. The impressive wooden headframe and associated structures (outbuildings, shafts, tunnels, and artifacts) remain visible and have been assessed for stabilization to protect historic timber framing. The main shaft is closed for safety (e.g., with cable netting). It serves as a photogenic reminder of WWII-era mining and the rugged life of desert prospectors.

(Note: A few secondary sources occasionally reference earlier 1900s development or conflicting details, but primary accounts consistently date commercial tin-focused work to the 1935–1944 period.)

The Evening Star Mine, though short-lived, highlights the Mojave’s role in supplying critical minerals during national emergencies and contributes to the rich tapestry of over a century of desert mining history. Many similar sites nearby (e.g., Vulcan for iron) underscore how the region supported both economic booms and wartime needs.

Resources

Bert Smith’s Cabin

Posted on by

Bert Smith’s Cabin, commonly known as the Rock House or Rock Spring Cabin, is a historic stone structure located in the Mojave National Preserve in San Bernardino County, California. Situated along the Rock Spring Loop Trail near the ruins of Camp Rock Spring, the cabin overlooks a scenic desert valley and serves as a poignant reminder of one veteran’s resilience in the harsh Mojave Desert environment. Built in 1929, it stands as a testament to homesteading, health-driven migration to arid regions, and the broader history of the Mojave Road corridor. Today, it is preserved by the National Park Service (NPS) as a public hiking destination and interpretive site.

Bert Smith's Cabin overlooks Camp Rock Springs
Bert Smith’s Cabin overlooks Camp Rock Springs

Bert Smith’s Background and Move to the Desert

Bert George Smith (often referred to simply as Bert Smith) was a World War I veteran who served in Europe. During the war, he was exposed to poison gas—likely mustard gas—used in chemical warfare, which severely scarred his lungs. Upon returning to the United States, his health declined dramatically. In the late 1920s, the Department of Veterans Affairs recommended that he relocate to the Mojave Desert, believing the dry climate might extend his life. Doctors gave him only a short time to live, perhaps as little as a year.

Smith arrived in the Mojave in 1929 and chose a site above the historic Camp Rock Spring, a former U.S. Army outpost used from 1866 to 1868 and a vital water source for Native American tribes, explorers, settlers, and military personnel. The area had long been part of desert travel networks, including the Mojave Road.

Construction of the Cabin

Smith initially built a simple wooden shack for shelter. He later upgraded it into a more substantial rock house using local stones, completing the structure around 1929 or in the early 1930s. The single-story cabin featured a functional design suited to the desert: thick stone walls for insulation, basic windows, a chimney, and a modest footprint. It had no electricity or modern amenities like television, emphasizing self-reliance and simplicity.

Smith enhanced the site by constructing wells and dikes in Rock Spring Canyon to improve water availability. He also maintained a small herd of goats, whose milk sustained him and his animals; remnants of the goat pen and corrals are still visible nearby. The cabin’s elevated location provided panoramic views of the surrounding desert, including the New York Mountains to the north.

Bert Smith's Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve
Bert Smith’s Cabin located in the Mojave National Reserve

Life at the Cabin

Despite his grave prognosis, Smith thrived in the isolated desert setting. He lived at the Rock House for approximately 25–27 years, until 1954, far outlasting medical expectations. His existence was one of quiet solitude amid the Mojave’s rugged landscape—tending goats, maintaining the spring improvements, and embracing the peace of a life without modern distractions. A common inscription or description of the site captures this spirit: “Former home of Bert George Smith. No television, no electricity. Just peace and quiet.”

In the 1930s, the area saw brief mining activity nearby when prospectors discovered copper in Watson Wash and built a small mill to process ore. The operation was short-lived and soon abandoned, leaving ruins that the Rock Spring Loop Trail now passes.

The NPS Sign refers to the site as "Rock House", I prefer Bert Smith's Cabin.
The NPS Sign refers to the site as “Rock House”, I prefer Bert Smith’s Cabin.

Subsequent Residents and Transition

After Smith left the cabin in 1954 (he reportedly moved to a retirement home and passed away in 1967), the structure stood vacant for a time. In 1981, desert artist Carl Faber—already experienced in living rough in the East Mojave—moved in and operated an informal art business there for about five years. He sold his artwork to passing four-wheel-drive travelers along the Mojave Road. Faber later relocated to a nearby property, continuing his art until 2003 before moving to New Mexico. He reflected positively on the lifestyle, noting how many visitors envied his freedom.

Ryan and Rooger welcome you the their porch.
Ryan and Rooger welcome you the their porch.

Current Status and Preservation

The NPS has restored and maintains the cabin, which remains in good condition with its stone construction intact. It is locked to protect the interior, but visitors can view it closely from the outside. The site is easily accessible via a short walk from a dirt parking area along Rock Spring Road (0.2 miles south of Cedar Canyon Road), with picnic tables and vault toilets nearby. It forms part of the one-mile Rock Spring Loop Trail, which also highlights the miners’ mill ruins and Camp Rock Spring.

An official NPS historical marker at the site details Smith’s story and the area’s layered history. The cabin is a popular stop for hikers, off-road enthusiasts, and history buffs exploring the Mojave National Preserve.

Significance and Legacy

Bert Smith’s Cabin embodies themes of veteran recovery, desert adaptation, and human perseverance. Smith’s defiance of a terminal diagnosis through simple desert living inspired later residents like Carl Faber and continues to captivate visitors. It connects to broader Mojave narratives: military history at Camp Rock Spring, transient mining booms, and the enduring allure of remote homesteading. As part of the protected Mojave National Preserve, the site educates the public about the human stories woven into this arid landscape while preserving its natural and cultural resources for future generations.

In summary, what began as a desperate health refuge became a symbol of endurance. Bert Smith’s Rock House stands today not just as a historic building, but as a monument to the quiet determination of those who sought solace and survival in the Mojave Desert.

[map style=”width: auto; height:400px; margin:20px 0px 20px 0px; border: 1px solid black;” marker=”yes” lat=”35.154175″ lon=”-115.333877″]

Barnwell California

Posted on by

In the sun-scorched expanse of the eastern Mojave Desert, where the New York Mountains rise like jagged sentinels against the relentless blue sky, lies the faint imprint of Barnwell—a once-bustling railroad junction and supply hub that epitomized the fleeting dreams of the early 20th-century mining boom. Located in northeastern San Bernardino County, California, at an elevation of approximately 4,806 feet, Barnwell straddles the invisible line between ambition and abandonment, its weathered remnants whispering tales of gold strikes, iron horses, and the unforgiving desert that reclaimed it all. Originally known as Manvel (and briefly as Summit), the site was renamed Barnwell in 1907 to avoid confusion with a Texas town of the same name. Today, it stands as a classic Mojave ghost town: no population, no services, just scattered foundations, rusted relics, and the endless howl of wind through creosote bushes. Its story is inextricably linked to the gold fields of nearby Searchlight, Nevada, and a constellation of smaller mining camps across the California-Nevada border, forming a web of interdependent outposts fueled by ore and optimism.

Origins and Railroad Foundations (1890s–1905)

Barnwell’s genesis traces back to the late 19th-century silver and gold rushes that dotted the Mojave with ephemeral camps. In 1892, Denver mining magnate Isaac C. Blake eyed rich silver deposits in Sagamore Canyon within the New York Mountains. To transport ore efficiently, Blake constructed a reduction mill in Needles and laid tracks for the Nevada Southern Railway northward from Goffs (on the main Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe line) toward the mines. The railroad reached a temporary camp called Summit, then pushed onward to a more permanent siding dubbed Manvel in honor of Santa Fe president Charles F. Manvel.

By 1898, Manvel had evolved into a vital freight hub, supporting nearby operations like the Copper World Mine and emerging gold discoveries 20 miles east in what would become Searchlight, Nevada. The town boasted a general store, hotel, blacksmith shop, post office, and stage lines radiating outward. Entrepreneurs like T.A. Brown of the Brown-Gosney Company established telephone lines, freight services, and branch stores, knitting together a fragile economic network across the desert. Manvel’s strategic position—straddling the California-Nevada line—made it a gateway for supplies heading to Vanderbilt (California), Hart, and the Piute Mountains, as well as nascent camps in Nevada.

Boom Years and the Searchlight Connection (1906–1908)

The true catalyst for Barnwell’s brief glory arrived with the explosive gold boom in Searchlight, Nevada, sparked by strikes in 1902–1903. As Searchlight swelled to over 1,500 residents, demand for reliable transport skyrocketed. The competing San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad (later Union Pacific) skirted too far north to serve Searchlight directly, prompting the Santa Fe to counter with the 23-mile Barnwell and Searchlight Railway. Construction began in May 1906 and finished by March 1907, with the line branching northeast from Barnwell (the renamed Manvel) across the state line to Searchlight.

Along this spur lay key sidings, including Juan—a minor railroad stop just over the Nevada border that briefly sparked confusion when both states attempted to tax it until surveys confirmed its location in Nevada. Juan served as a watering point and minor freight depot, its existence wholly dependent on the Barnwell-Searchlight lifeline. Other stops and nearby camps included Crescent and Hart in Nevada, and Goffs, Ivanpah, and Vanderbilt back in California.

Renamed Barnwell in 1907, the town pulsed with activity: ore wagons thundered in from distant claims, saloons quenched thirsty miners, and the Brown-Gosney store dominated commerce. For a fleeting moment, Barnwell was the Mojave’s beating heart, funneling tools, food, and hope to Searchlight’s Quartet, Duplex, and other rich mines.

Decline and Desertion (1908–1920s)

Prosperity proved as ephemeral as a desert mirage. The Barnwell and Searchlight line opened just as Searchlight’s high-grade ore began pinching out. A national financial panic in October 1907 triggered a depression, and Barnwell introduced scrip currency—prompting an exodus of families. Catastrophe struck in September 1908 when fire ravaged the business district, destroying the depot and Brown-Gosney’s flagship store. The depot never reopened; another blaze in May 1910 sealed the town’s fate.

As Searchlight withered after 1911, traffic on the spur dwindled. T.A. Brown relocated his family in 1912, and by the 1920s, the railroad was abandoned—tracks ripped up during World War II scrap drives. Barnwell faded into obscurity, its buildings crumbling under the Mojave’s merciless sun and wind.

Relationship with Juan, Nevada, and Surrounding Towns

Barnwell’s fortunes were symbiotically tied to its neighbors:

  • Juan, Nevada: Essentially a child of the Barnwell and Searchlight Railway, Juan was a simple siding with water facilities, located mere miles across the state line. It existed solely to support through-traffic to Searchlight and resolved an early border tax dispute. Today, Juan is an even fainter ghost than Barnwell—little more than graded roadbed and scattered debris.
  • Searchlight, Nevada: Barnwell’s primary raison d’être. The 23-mile rail link made Barnwell the supply artery for Searchlight’s boom, but when Searchlight busted, Barnwell hemorrhaged life.
  • Goffs, California: The southern anchor where the spur connected to the main Santa Fe line; an older railroad town that outlasted Barnwell.
  • Vanderbilt, California: An earlier gold camp northeast of Barnwell, whose decline in the 1890s freed resources for the Searchlight push.
  • Hart and Crescent, Nevada: Minor camps along or near the rail line, dependent on Barnwell for freight.
  • Nipton, California, and Cal-Nev-Ari, Nevada: Later developments nearby, but post-dating Barnwell’s heyday.

This cluster formed a fragile desert ecosystem: ore flowed out, supplies flowed in, all balanced on iron rails that the desert ultimately severed.

Current Status

Barnwell remains a true ghost town—uninhabited, unmarked by signs, and accessible only via rough dirt roads off Interstate 15 or from Nevada Route 164. Within the vast Mojave National Preserve (though the immediate site is on private or unpreserved land), visitors encounter subtle ruins: concrete foundations from the depot era, scattered bricks, old wells, a derelict homestead, and a lone water tank silhouetted against the horizon. The railroad grade is still visible in places, cutting arrow-straight through sagebrush toward Searchlight.

No facilities exist; high-clearance 4WD is recommended, especially after rains that turn washes into quagmires. Off-road enthusiasts and history buffs occasionally pass through, photographing the stark beauty or tracing the old Barnwell and Searchlight right-of-way. Drones capture the isolation best: a grid of faded streets swallowed by creosote, with the New York Mountains looming eternally indifferent.

Barnwell endures not as a tourist draw like Calico or Bodie, but as a quiet monument to the Mojave’s boom-and-bust rhythm—a place where the wind erases footprints almost as quickly as dreams once formed them. For the intrepid, it offers profound solitude and a tangible link to the wild era when railroads chased gold across state lines, only to retreat when the veins ran dry.

Kelso Depot

Posted on by

The story of the westward expansion is the story of the railroads.  Beginning in 1862, the Union Pacific Railroad sought expansion opportunities along the western coast of the United States.  To secure a foothold into California the railroads must cross the Mojave Desert and the depot in Kelso was crucial to accomplish this goal.  Located at the junction of Kelbaker Road and the Kelso Cima Road, the Kelso Depot stands in testimony of the technological progress of the nations trains.

Kelso Depot, Mojave CA
Kelso Depot, Mojave CA

August of 1900, Montana Senator William A. Clark invested in a small Los Angeles based railway which would become the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad.  In 1902, in mine owner made a deal to sell half of the stock to the Union Pacific even before the railway was completed.

William A Clark
William A Clark

In 1905, after 235 miles of track are laid, three warehouse men placed their names in a hat and drew out the winner John Kelso, for whom track siding #16 of the Salt Lake route was named.    Later in 1905, Kelso was just one depot along the Salt Lake Route which now stretched from San Pedro, CA to Salt Lake City Utah.  This new route opened southern California to the Union Pacific Railroad.  In 1921, Union Pacific convinced Senator Clark to sell his remaining shares.

Additionally, in 1905 Senator Clark divested himself of some land in southern Nevada along another rail stop.  This auction is considered the birth of Las Vegas, and Clark Country was named for the man.

San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s
San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Railroad locomotive #32, early 1900s

Built in 1921, The Kelso Depot is architecturally styled as a Mission Revival and just one of several depots along the route which were designated as division points and provided facilities for operations and maintenance purposes.   The buildings original design included a telegraph office, conductor’s room, baggage room, staff dormitories, a billiard room, library and locker. The spring water in the nearby Providence mountains allowed the location to service the steam engines.  Additionally, the relatively steep 2% 2000 foot grade necessitated the use of helper engines by the steam locomotives of the day to crest the Kessler Summit.

Other depot locations

  • Lynndyl, Utah
  • Milford, Utah
  • Las Vegas, Nevada
  • Caliente, Nevada
  • Yermo, California
  • San Bernardino, California

Union Pacific continued to operate the depot from 1921 to 1985.  The depot provided much need infrastructure during World War 2, at which point the facility started a long decline in utility.  Diesel engines improved efficiency and duration allowed the Union Pacific railroad to reduce their personnel requirements.  The 1960’s introduced the second generation of more powerful and efficient diesel engines which eliminated the need for the helper engines.  Combined with the cessation of passenger travel in August, 1964 the Kelso depot is destined to languish on the back roads of history.  The Kelso Depot ceased operations as a train depot in 1962.

The Kelso Depot is currently in use as a Visitors Center of the Mojave National Preserve.

Kelso Depot Trail Map

References

Goffs California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

Posted on by

Originally known as Blake, Goffs, California is a small unincorporated community located off of Route 66 in the Mojave desert near the Piute Mountains.  Originally named for Isaac Blake, builder of the Nevada Southern Railway, the town was named Goffs in 1902, when it served as a railway stop, and housing for the Santa Fe Railroad.

Goffs, CA
Goffs California

In 1914, Goffs built a schoolhouse which served 1000 square miles of the surrounding desert.  The students were primarily children of railroad employees, miners and Mexican immigrant families.  The school continued to function as a educational facility until it’s closure in 1937 when the Goffs School District was merged with  the nearby Needles school district.  During World War II, the “Mission Revival” building served as a canteen for the Desert Training Center, which trained US servicemen for the hardships of desert life in preparation for the African Campaign.

Goffs Schoolhouse, Mojave, CA
Goffs Schoolhouse, Mojave, CA

Today, the Goffs school house is used by the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Associations and a museum and cultural center.  The schoolhouse was recognized on the National Register of Historic Places on Aug 7th, 2001.  ( #01001102 )

Goffs California found it’s way onto my list of cool places by accident on a family vacation along the Old Mojave Road.  The first day in, we camped in the New York Mountains.  We scheduled a rest day where we could drive the jeeps with a non burden suspension and explore the Mojave Dessert.  Almost as an after-thought, we headed towards Goffs not knowing what to expect or who we would find.

As we pulled into the area, we could see a windmill and a couple of buildings which are located behind a locked gate.  We decided to get out to stretch a bit, and after a few minutes I noticed a man driving up in a golf cart.  At first I was concerned that some old desert hermit was investigating trespassers on his land, and was immediately surprised when this man opened the gate and invited us onto his property.  It turned our that this man was Dennis Casebier, the man who wrote the book and rediscovered the Old Mojave Road.

Hitchin a ride with the fascinating Dennis Casebier
Hitchin a ride with the fascinating Dennis Casebier

That afternoon, we spent a good portion of the day with the fascinating Mr. Casebier.  He told us how he retired to Goffs in the 1990’s and worked to protect the history of the area.   He relived the days of searching and marking off the Old Mojave Road by building rock cairns, hundreds of them.  He told the stories of the military activity in the area during World War II.  He offered us a complete tour of his land and collection of mining equipment, stamp mills, train equipment, etc…

Preserving the Old Mojave Road and the history of the area is Mr. Casebier’s work. At the time, he showed us a 2 stamp stampmill that he restored into working condition and share his plans to assemble a 10 stamp mill which he recently acquired.  I understand that he now has this mill working as well, so I need to schedule another trip down to Goffs.

As we were leaving, we thanked him for his hospitality and for opening up for us.  He replied that he could not ignore a couple of dirty jeeps driving down the road.

That night, around the campfire I reflected on how fortunate I was to meet Dennis Casebier.  I felt privileged, and yet, I suspect that I really was not that lucky.  I imagine this that I am one of many, who drove down the road into Goffs and talk with Dennis Casebier.

Functioning Stampmill, Goffs, CA
Functioning Stampmill, Goffs, CA

Further Reading

Continue Reading →