Tag: Trails

4×4 trails offer enthusiasts an exhilarating blend of rugged adventure and natural beauty. These trails wind through diverse terrain, from dense forests and rocky mountainsides to muddy river crossings and sandy dunes, presenting a challenging playground for off-road vehicles. Each trail brings its own unique obstacles and breathtaking vistas, inviting drivers to test their skill and their vehicle’s capabilities. Whether navigating steep inclines, conquering deep mud pits, or maneuvering around fallen logs, 4×4 trails provide an immersive experience in the heart of untamed landscapes, where every turn promises both adrenaline-pumping excitement and moments of serene wilderness immersion.

Hole in the Rock

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Recognized on the National Register of Historic Places, the Hole in the Rock trail is an old Mormon trail in Utah that was used to establish colonies on the east side of the Colorado River in 1879. The Hole in the Rock from which the trail is named, is a narrow canyon from the rim of the canyon down into the Colorado River Valley. This canyon provided access to the Colorado River and the much needed water require to survive in these remote locations. Months were spent widening the narrow canyon to allow “safe” passage of all the wagons and cattle.

Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

The original trail was bisected when the Glen Canyon damn bottled the Colorado River and started to fill up Lake Powell in 1966. However, thE road continues to exist and allows access to the Escalante Canyon system, along with access to the Devils Garden, numerous slot canyons and lots of back country hiking and camping opportunities.

Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah
Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah

The road passes between the Kaiparowits Plateau and the Escalante River. This area is a labyrinth of roads and trails.  The trail leaves the small town of Escalante and travels 44 miles south along a sandy road.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

Do not underestimate how cool this area is to visit. The rock formations, remote locations and sunsets are beyond comprehension. One can get the feeling of isolation on just a short visit.

Escalante Canyon, Utah
Escalante Canyon, Utah

Hole in the Rock Trail Map

Cathedral Valley

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Located in Capital Reef National Park, the Cathedral Valley District of Capitol Reef National Park is open all year and the perfect spot for the back county explorer seeking to get away from it all.

Temple of the Sun, located on Cathedral Valley Trail in Capital Reef National Park, Utah - Photo by James L Rathbun
Temple of the Sun, located on Cathedral Valley Trail in Capital Reef National Park, Utah – Photo by James L Rathbun

Vehicles with high ground clearance are recommended and should have no issues navigating the sandy roads. Road conditions can vary greatly depending on recent weather conditions with spring and summer rains leaving the route muddy and impassable.  The advantage of this location is the back country travel is light, so for the person seeking seclusion, this is the secluded area in a remote location.

The 60 miles loop trail leaves highway 24 at the River Ford which is about 12 miles easy of the visitor center.  The route follows Hartnet Road to the Cathedral Road ( Caineville Wash Road) and returns to Highway 24 near Caineville.  The river crossing is passable most of the time, however care should be taken during the rainy months.

During my visit in 2004, we just finished Hole in the Rock Road, and headed east out of Escalante, Utah.  We then took the Burr Trail to Notom Road which delivered us to Capital Reef.  That afternoon we chased the light up Cathedral Valley Road and stopped at Temple of the Sun for some photographic opportunities.  We stayed beyond sun down hoping for some amazing light which did not come that evening and drove trail out in the dark.  I was disappointed for the lack of light during the golden hour, but the location is yet another place that I must return just due to the amazing Utah landscapes.

Cathedral Valley Trail Map

Shafer Trail

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The Shafer Trail, located in the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah, is a renowned backcountry road celebrated for its dramatic scenery and challenging terrain. Spanning approximately 19 miles, the trail descends 1,500 feet through a massive sandstone cliff via a series of tight switchbacks, connecting the mesa top to the canyon floor and linking with the White Rim Road and Potash Road. Its history reflects a rich tapestry of human activity, evolving from ancient pathways to a modern recreational route.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Early Use by Native Americans

Long before modern roads, the Shafer Trail began as a route used by Native Americans to access resources on the mesa top and travel to the Colorado River below. These early inhabitants of the region navigated the rugged terrain to gather materials and move between seasonal locations, establishing a path that would later be adapted for other purposes. The trail’s origins as a Native American route highlight its significance as a corridor through the challenging canyon landscape.

Ranching Era and the Shafer Family

In the early 20th century, the trail was adapted by Mormon pioneer settlers, particularly the Shafer family, for whom it is named. Starting in 1916, John “Sog” Shafer used the trail to move cattle between summer pastures on the mesa top and winter grazing grounds on the White Rim sandstone below. Shafer and other ranchers improved the trail, widening and stabilizing it to make it safer for livestock, though it remained narrow and perilous, with animals occasionally slipping to their deaths. These improvements laid the groundwork for later developments, and many trails in the Island in the Sky district bear the names of families who worked them.

Uranium Boom and Road Expansion

The 1950s marked a significant transformation for the Shafer Trail during the uranium boom in the American Southwest. The Atomic Energy Commission widened and extended the trail to accommodate trucks transporting uranium-bearing ore from mines in the Triassic Chinle Formation to processing facilities in Moab. This period saw many backcountry roads in the Moab area, including the Shafer Trail, upgraded to support the mining industry, leaving visible scars across the desert landscape. The trail’s role in uranium transport underscores its importance to the region’s industrial history.

Transition to Recreation

With the establishment of Canyonlands National Park in 1964, the Shafer Trail’s function shifted from ranching and mining to recreation. Ranchers were granted a ten-year extension to continue operations, but by the mid-1970s, the trail was primarily used by visitors seeking adventure. The National Park Service improved the road to make it safer for recreational use, though it remains unpaved and challenging, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles with low-range gear (4LO). Today, the trail attracts hundreds of visitors annually for its thrilling switchbacks and breathtaking views of Canyonlands’ sculpted pinnacles, buttes, and the Colorado River.

Modern-Day Significance

The Shafer Trail is now an iconic backcountry drive, celebrated for its scenic beauty and historical significance. It offers access to notable sites like the Shafer Canyon Overlook, where visitors can view the trail’s switchbacks and the surrounding canyon landscape, and Thelma and Louise Point, famous for its appearance in the 1991 film’s final scene. The trail also connects to other recreational routes like the White Rim Road and is popular among hikers, mountain bikers, and photographers for its wildflowers, petroglyphs, and dinosaur tracks. Its challenging conditions, including steep drops and sharp rocks, require careful preparation, and it can become impassable during wet or snowy weather.

Conclusion

From a Native American pathway to a cattle trail, a uranium transport route, and now a premier recreational destination, the Shafer Trail encapsulates the evolving human relationship with Canyonlands’ rugged landscape. Named after the Shafer family and shaped by centuries of use, it remains a testament to the region’s cultural, industrial, and natural history, offering visitors an unforgettable journey through one of America’s most striking national parks.

Shafer Trail map

Valley of the Gods

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Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

Achy-Breaky

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Achy-Breaky is a very difficult, trail which circumnavigates Watkins Peak in San Bernardino County, California. This trail is one of many on the Stoddard Wells OHV.  The trail requires a well built 4×4 and a GPS to even stay on the trail which a network of difficult to navigate trails.

California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail
California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail

Located south of Barstow, in the Stoddard Wells OHV Area. The trail is quite a popular destination for people who are looking to test their 4×4, and not suitable for stock vehicles. Skid plates, differential lockers, high ground clearance and a capable truck are required to navigate the desert terrain with numerous steep, rocky climbs. Tire damage is a real possibility from the large, sharp rocks. Although technically challenging, the trail does not offer much in the scenery department, unless you hike up towards to top of the peak.

The trail is best run from November to March each year due to the high heat of the Mohave Desert. More information on Stoddard Wells OHV Area can be found at the Barstow Field office of the Bureau of Land Management at 760-252-6000.

Arcy-Breaky Trail Map

References