Tag: Utah

Utah, a state in the western United States, is renowned for its stunning natural landscapes and unique geological formations. It is characterized by vast deserts, towering red rock formations, and the dramatic peaks of the Rocky Mountains. Home to five national parks—Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, and Arches—Utah attracts outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers from around the world. Its capital, Salt Lake City, is a hub of culture, history, and outdoor recreation, famously hosting the 2002 Winter Olympics. Utah’s diverse terrain offers opportunities for skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and exploring ancient Native American petroglyphs and archaeological sites. The state’s Mormon heritage is also evident in its history, architecture, and the world-famous Salt Lake Temple.

Desert Primrose (Oenothera deltoides)

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Desert Primrose photographed in Anza Burego, CA
Desert Primrose photographed in Anza Burego, CA

Classification (Taxonomy)

Oenothera deltoides belongs to the evening primrose family and is classified as follows (using a combination of traditional Linnaean ranks and modern phylogenetic clades):

  • Kingdom: Plantae
  • Clade: Tracheophytes (vascular plants)
  • Clade: Angiosperms (flowering plants)
  • Clade: Eudicots
  • Clade: Rosids
  • Order: Myrtales
  • Family: Onagraceae Juss. (Evening Primrose family)
  • Genus: Oenothera L.
  • Species: Oenothera deltoides Torr. & Frém. (described in 1845 by John Torrey and John C. Frémont)

The species includes several subspecies (e.g., O. d. subsp. howellii, which is federally endangered in California, and others such as subsp. deltoides, subsp. piperi, subsp. ambigua, subsp. cognata, and subsp. julpunensis). The overall species is considered secure.

Description

Oenothera deltoides, commonly known as the Desert Primrose, is a bushy or mounded annual (sometimes short-lived perennial) herb in the Evening Primrose family. It typically grows 2–18 inches (5–46 cm) tall but can reach up to 3 feet (about 1 m) in favorable conditions, with a spread up to 40 inches (1 m) wide. The plant often forms a dense basal rosette with a central erect stem and several decumbent to ascending leafy branches. The herbage is grayish-green to pale green and may be hairy or glandular.

Leaves: Primarily basal and sparse along the stems; deltoid (triangular) to obovate or oblanceolate in shape, up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. Margins are often toothed, lobed, grooved, or cleft, giving a distinctive triangular appearance (reflected in the species epithet deltoides).

Flowers: Large, showy, and fragrant, measuring 1.5–3 inches (4–8 cm) wide with four white petals forming a saucer or cup shape (sometimes turning yellowish toward the center). They open in the early evening (around sunset) and close by mid-morning, a classic evening-primrose trait. The flowers are solitary in the upper leaf axils and fade to pinkish with age. They are pollinated primarily by nocturnal moths (such as the white-lined sphinx moth) and native bees.

Fruit: A woody capsule that persists after flowering.

Distinctive Feature: After the plant dies (typically after setting seed), the stems curl upward and inward, forming a hollow, cage- or basket-like structure. This gives rise to many of its common names and allows the dried plant to tumble in the wind, dispersing seeds.

The plant is highly adapted to arid conditions and often carpets sandy desert floors with white “tissue-paper-like” blooms following abundant winter rains.

Range and Distribution

Oenothera deltoides is native to the Southwestern United States and northern Mexico. Its range includes the Mojave and Colorado Deserts, extending into parts of the Great Basin and coastal sandy areas. It occurs in the following U.S. states: Arizona (AZ), California (CA), Nevada (NV), Oregon (OR), and Utah (UT). In Mexico, it is found in northern Baja California and northwestern regions.

Habitat: Dry, open sandy soils, dunes, desert washes, rocky cliffs, hillsides, and occasionally beaches or coastal dunes. Elevations are generally below 2,500–5,500 feet (760–1,680 m), depending on the region. It thrives in full sun and is most abundant in the Mojave, Sonoran, and adjacent desert regions after wet winters.

Flowering season is primarily January–May (varying slightly by location and rainfall), with peak blooms often in February–April.

List of Other Common Names

In addition to Desert Primrose (or Dune Primrose), the species is known by many evocative names that reference its flowers, fragrance, or post-death “cage” structure:

  • Birdcage evening primrose
  • Basket evening primrose
  • Birdcage primrose
  • Dune evening primrose
  • Lion in a cage (or Lion-in-a-cage)
  • Devil’s lantern (or Desert lantern)
  • Fragrant primrose
  • Desert evening-primrose
  • Hairy evening primrose (occasional reference)

These names vary regionally but consistently highlight the plant’s striking appearance and unique dried form.

Oenothera deltoides is a beautiful and ecologically important desert wildflower, providing nectar for pollinators and contributing to the spectacular spring displays of the American Southwest. It is widely available for native plant gardening in arid regions and requires well-drained sandy soil with minimal irrigation once established.

Lower Antelope Canyon

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Lower Antelope Canyon one of two slot canyons located off the highway 98 just outside of Page, Arizona near the Utah border.

Entering Lower Antelope Canyon
Entering Lower Antelope Canyon

Slot Canyons are formed in usually arid regions, where a little bit of rain falls, and fulls the dry rivers of the desert southwest.  The water can flash flood, which picks up speed and debris and scours the landscape.  Overtime, the water forces itself into cracks in the rock and widens the deepens the crack into a deep narrow canyon.   Lower Antelope is a commonly overlooked when compared the Upper Antelope Canyon, although does seem to be gaining in popularity.

Hasdestwazi, or “spiral rock arches ” as it is known to the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation, Lower Antelope slowly exposes itself to you as a small crack in the rock which grows slightly in width, and dramatically  in depth as you climb down into the slot canyon.

Unlike Upper Antelope Canyon which is an easy walk, Lower Antelope Canyon is a steep and deep trail as the passage plunges deeper into the rock.  The Navajo Nation is kind enough to maintain metal stairs to aid the trek, however on my last visit the stars where covered in mud, silt and debris from a recent storm which further sculpts the rock.   Upper Antelope pulls you eyes up into the colorful light above, however there is no real sense of depth.  Lower Antelope Canyon constantly reminds you how deep you really are beneath the surface.

The stairs inside of lower Antelope Canyon show signs of a recent flood.
The stairs inside of lower Antelope Canyon show signs of a recent flood.

Just like Upper Antelope Canyon, a narrow opening at the top of the canyon only allows a little light the enter the canyon.  This light bounces off the canyon walls, and throughout the day, a light show of glowing rock, shadows and textured water sculpted rock offer a wonderful visuals to the visitors.

The sculpted rock and light offer beauty, texture and scenic photographic opportunities, however this beauty hides a danger.  An August 12, 1997 a group of eleven tourists where killed inside the canyon when a flash flood filled the canyon in seconds.  A sole tour guide survived the tragedy.

As I follow the canyon down towards Lake Powell in the distance, I would constantly find my self touching the smooth canyon rock walls, all the while knowing that a summer monsoon miles aware could end my time on this planet.  However, although always a bit uneasy, it is an amazing place and well worth the trip and the remote risk.

The Green Gopher

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Growing up in the 70’s I learned and spent a lot of time camping, hiking, being outdoors and active.  Every spring summer and fall, my parents and I would load up the truck, and later the trailer and head out.  Typically preparations would start the week before departure, and the loading process would start on Thursday afternoon with my brother and I hauling all the gear into the yard, while my mom packed the vehicles.  Friday could not come soon enough and when it did, my dad would come home from work, change is clothes, wrangle up two kids, maybe a dog, adjust the mirrors, and exclaim “We’re off” as we drove out of the driveway in The Green Gopher.  For the most part, for my family nothing much has changed much from my dad.  It is however the details that matter.

In 1972, I was one year old and to celebrate my dad bought a new truck.  Details of the vehicle back then are scarce.  From my point of view, my dad previously owned a 1964 International Scout.  He drive this car for years all over the desert south west in the late 1960s.  When my dad married my mom, my mom made him sell the Scout because the breaks were horrible, and at least three times they failed completely.  It was a wise decision considering the stakes for the family at the time, but the loss of his beloved Scout was difficult and for decades despite its faults the Scout cast a long shadow in our family.

Returning to 1972, my dad decided to purchase his truck.  He chose a Sea Foam Green 1972 Ford F-100 pickup sporting a 302 inch V-8 sporting with a 3.2:1 gear ratio, two fuel tanks, and a four speed manual transmission which included a “Granny Gear”.  The extra costs of a four wheel drive were not an option for my dad at that time.  So, the truck became the “ultimate compromise”.  He opted for 2 wheel drive, but to offer improved traction he chose a four speed with granny gear.  The differential was geared up to offer improve gas mileage, but the little 200 HP V-8 could not pull a grade at any sort of highway speeds.  A camper shell, home built bed, pass-through rear window and the “green gopher” was complete for the initial incarnation.

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Hole in the Rock

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Recognized on the National Register of Historic Places, the Hole in the Rock trail is an old Mormon trail in Utah that was used to establish colonies on the east side of the Colorado River in 1879. The Hole in the Rock from which the trail is named, is a narrow canyon from the rim of the canyon down into the Colorado River Valley. This canyon provided access to the Colorado River and the much needed water require to survive in these remote locations. Months were spent widening the narrow canyon to allow “safe” passage of all the wagons and cattle.

Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

The original trail was bisected when the Glen Canyon damn bottled the Colorado River and started to fill up Lake Powell in 1966. However, thE road continues to exist and allows access to the Escalante Canyon system, along with access to the Devils Garden, numerous slot canyons and lots of back country hiking and camping opportunities.

Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah
Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah

The road passes between the Kaiparowits Plateau and the Escalante River. This area is a labyrinth of roads and trails.  The trail leaves the small town of Escalante and travels 44 miles south along a sandy road.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

Do not underestimate how cool this area is to visit. The rock formations, remote locations and sunsets are beyond comprehension. One can get the feeling of isolation on just a short visit.

Escalante Canyon, Utah
Escalante Canyon, Utah

Hole in the Rock Trail Map

Shafer Trail

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The Shafer Trail, located in the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah, is a renowned backcountry road celebrated for its dramatic scenery and challenging terrain. Spanning approximately 19 miles, the trail descends 1,500 feet through a massive sandstone cliff via a series of tight switchbacks, connecting the mesa top to the canyon floor and linking with the White Rim Road and Potash Road. Its history reflects a rich tapestry of human activity, evolving from ancient pathways to a modern recreational route.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Early Use by Native Americans

Long before modern roads, the Shafer Trail began as a route used by Native Americans to access resources on the mesa top and travel to the Colorado River below. These early inhabitants of the region navigated the rugged terrain to gather materials and move between seasonal locations, establishing a path that would later be adapted for other purposes. The trail’s origins as a Native American route highlight its significance as a corridor through the challenging canyon landscape.

Ranching Era and the Shafer Family

In the early 20th century, the trail was adapted by Mormon pioneer settlers, particularly the Shafer family, for whom it is named. Starting in 1916, John “Sog” Shafer used the trail to move cattle between summer pastures on the mesa top and winter grazing grounds on the White Rim sandstone below. Shafer and other ranchers improved the trail, widening and stabilizing it to make it safer for livestock, though it remained narrow and perilous, with animals occasionally slipping to their deaths. These improvements laid the groundwork for later developments, and many trails in the Island in the Sky district bear the names of families who worked them.

Uranium Boom and Road Expansion

The 1950s marked a significant transformation for the Shafer Trail during the uranium boom in the American Southwest. The Atomic Energy Commission widened and extended the trail to accommodate trucks transporting uranium-bearing ore from mines in the Triassic Chinle Formation to processing facilities in Moab. This period saw many backcountry roads in the Moab area, including the Shafer Trail, upgraded to support the mining industry, leaving visible scars across the desert landscape. The trail’s role in uranium transport underscores its importance to the region’s industrial history.

Transition to Recreation

With the establishment of Canyonlands National Park in 1964, the Shafer Trail’s function shifted from ranching and mining to recreation. Ranchers were granted a ten-year extension to continue operations, but by the mid-1970s, the trail was primarily used by visitors seeking adventure. The National Park Service improved the road to make it safer for recreational use, though it remains unpaved and challenging, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles with low-range gear (4LO). Today, the trail attracts hundreds of visitors annually for its thrilling switchbacks and breathtaking views of Canyonlands’ sculpted pinnacles, buttes, and the Colorado River.

Modern-Day Significance

The Shafer Trail is now an iconic backcountry drive, celebrated for its scenic beauty and historical significance. It offers access to notable sites like the Shafer Canyon Overlook, where visitors can view the trail’s switchbacks and the surrounding canyon landscape, and Thelma and Louise Point, famous for its appearance in the 1991 film’s final scene. The trail also connects to other recreational routes like the White Rim Road and is popular among hikers, mountain bikers, and photographers for its wildflowers, petroglyphs, and dinosaur tracks. Its challenging conditions, including steep drops and sharp rocks, require careful preparation, and it can become impassable during wet or snowy weather.

Conclusion

From a Native American pathway to a cattle trail, a uranium transport route, and now a premier recreational destination, the Shafer Trail encapsulates the evolving human relationship with Canyonlands’ rugged landscape. Named after the Shafer family and shaped by centuries of use, it remains a testament to the region’s cultural, industrial, and natural history, offering visitors an unforgettable journey through one of America’s most striking national parks.

Shafer Trail map