Category: Destination4x4

Cathedral Valley

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Located in Capital Reef National Park, the Cathedral Valley District of Capitol Reef National Park is open all year and the perfect spot for the back county explorer seeking to get away from it all.

Temple of the Sun, located on Cathedral Valley Trail in Capital Reef National Park, Utah - Photo by James L Rathbun
Temple of the Sun, located on Cathedral Valley Trail in Capital Reef National Park, Utah – Photo by James L Rathbun

Vehicles with high ground clearance are recommended and should have no issues navigating the sandy roads. Road conditions can vary greatly depending on recent weather conditions with spring and summer rains leaving the route muddy and impassable.  The advantage of this location is the back country travel is light, so for the person seeking seclusion, this is the secluded area in a remote location.

The 60 miles loop trail leaves highway 24 at the River Ford which is about 12 miles easy of the visitor center.  The route follows Hartnet Road to the Cathedral Road ( Caineville Wash Road) and returns to Highway 24 near Caineville.  The river crossing is passable most of the time, however care should be taken during the rainy months.

During my visit in 2004, we just finished Hole in the Rock Road, and headed east out of Escalante, Utah.  We then took the Burr Trail to Notom Road which delivered us to Capital Reef.  That afternoon we chased the light up Cathedral Valley Road and stopped at Temple of the Sun for some photographic opportunities.  We stayed beyond sun down hoping for some amazing light which did not come that evening and drove trail out in the dark.  I was disappointed for the lack of light during the golden hour, but the location is yet another place that I must return just due to the amazing Utah landscapes.

Cathedral Valley Trail Map

Achy-Breaky

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Achy-Breaky is a very difficult, trail which circumnavigates Watkins Peak in San Bernardino County, California. This trail is one of many on the Stoddard Wells OHV.  The trail requires a well built 4×4 and a GPS to even stay on the trail which a network of difficult to navigate trails.

California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail
California Desert Tortoise emerging from a hiding place just off of Achy-Breaky Trail

Located south of Barstow, in the Stoddard Wells OHV Area. The trail is quite a popular destination for people who are looking to test their 4×4, and not suitable for stock vehicles. Skid plates, differential lockers, high ground clearance and a capable truck are required to navigate the desert terrain with numerous steep, rocky climbs. Tire damage is a real possibility from the large, sharp rocks. Although technically challenging, the trail does not offer much in the scenery department, unless you hike up towards to top of the peak.

The trail is best run from November to March each year due to the high heat of the Mohave Desert. More information on Stoddard Wells OHV Area can be found at the Barstow Field office of the Bureau of Land Management at 760-252-6000.

Arcy-Breaky Trail Map

References

White Mountain Road

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Locathed in Inyo County, the White Mountain Road is a high altitude road that travels north from Highway 168 out of Big Pine and into the Bristle Cone Pine Forest of the White Mountains.  The road is partial paved as far as the Schulman Grove visitors center and beyond the road is graded dirt.

Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.
Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.

As the White Mountain roads winds north, it follows the ridge line of the White Mountains climbing higher in elevation and offers up amazing vistas of Owens Valley to the west.

A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA
A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA

The bristlecone pine tree is found in this mountain range, and is the oldest living thing on the planet and are known to live 5,000 years.  The bristlecone pine trees live in groves in arid sub alpine mountain tops in the western United States, including the White Mountains in California and around Mount Charleston just north of Las Vegas.  The harsh environment, high elevations over 12,000 above sea level, dry conditions, high winds twist a bend the trees and they slowly grow across the millennium.

Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.
Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.

The very high elevation takes its toll on car and driver a like. While climbing the route, the power of the jeep was quite noticeable. I did not notice the elevation until I got out for a bit of a hike among the Bristle Cones. Once must be careful to catch their breathe, and the suns intensity was rather noticable.

Over 11000 feet above sea level
Over 11000 feet above sea level

White Mountain Road Map

Bonnie Claire Nevada – A Nye County Ghost Town

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Located off highway 267 East of Death Valley National Park Gold, Bonnie Clarie Nevada is a mine site and ghost town that is easy to explore from the highway in Nye County, Nevada.   Bonnie Claire began life with a 5 stamp mill located in Thorp’s Well,  in the early 1880s.  The mill in Thorp’s Well processed ore for three active mines in the area for twenty years.  At this point, the mill was purchased by the Bonnie Clarie Bullfrog Mining Company to process materials from the Gold Mountain District.

Long Team in front of the Bonnie Claire Mine, Nevada
Long Team in front of the Bonnie Claire Mine, Nevada

In 1904 a second Mill, the Bonnie Claire mill, was built near the stage stop in Thorp which service travelers from Goldfield and Bullfrog and a post office followed in 1905.

The railroad reached the area in 1906 and the Bonnie Claire Nevada townsite was founded.   First a tent city house the population until 1907 when the first wooden structures were built which hosted 100 people and several saloons.  The location languished with the founding of Rhyolite to the south.  The town survived serveral years past it prime and served to ship building materials for Scotty’s Castle.

Bonnie Claire Trail Map

Fish Canyon Escape Trail

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William Lewis Manly (April 6, 1820 – February 5, 1903)
William Lewis Manly (April 6, 1820 – February 5, 1903)

The Fish Canyon Escape Trail is a route discovered by William Manly as an escape route from Death Valley in 1849.  The group tried to navigate the hot and dry Mojave desert with hand drawn maps, which supposedly showed short cuts across the desert. After being lost of months in the wilderness of Death Valley, William Manly and a group of emigrants headed to California. William Mandy set off and finally discovered a route out of Death Valley.  

William Many was like many man of the era. He made his living as a guide, fur hunter, farmer and later in life a writer. In 1849, he followed thousands of other young men and travelled to California to join the Gold Rush. He was 29 years old at the time.

Near Provo Utah he joined other travels to cross the great basin to Southern California. In December, the group became lost following the inaccurate maps which they brought with them. For three weeks they struggled in Death Valley. With food supplies depeleted. Manly and John Haney Rogers walked the Mojave for 250 miles, finally reaching Rancho San Fernando.

On his return with food and horses, he discovered that only two families, the Bennett and Arcane, survived his absence. This trail is part of his route.

The trail is mildly rocky and suitable for most SUV’s

Further Reading

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