Category: Destination4x4

Silver Reef is a historic mining ghost town in Washington County, southern Utah, located about 15–20 miles northeast of St. George and roughly 1 mile west of the town of Leeds. It is one of the few places in the world where economically significant silver was mined from sandstone (specifically the Springdale Sandstone Member of the Kayenta Formation). The site is geologically unusual and culturally distinctive as a largely non-Mormon (“Gentile”) boomtown set amid predominantly Latter-day Saint agricultural settlements.

Geological Setting and Discovery

The silver deposits occur in tilted sandstone “reefs” (rocky ridges formed by the Virgin Anticline). The main productive reefs were the Buckeye (richest, yielding about 70% of production), White, Butte, and East. Silver is primarily present as nearly invisible horn silver (silver chloride/chlorargyrite), sometimes associated with colorful copper minerals (azurite, malachite) and later uranium. The metals were likely leached from underlying volcanic ash beds in the Chinle Formation by groundwater, transported upward, and precipitated in the porous sandstone where organic matter and chemistry changes caused deposition.

High-grade silver ore (float) was first discovered in 1866 by prospector John Kemple near Harrisburg while he wintered in the area. Samples reportedly assayed extremely high (one account cites over $17,000 per ton), but the idea of silver in unaltered sandstone was widely dismissed as impossible. Kemple and others organized early mining districts (Union Mining District around 1871; Harrisburg Mining District in 1874), yet development lagged for nearly a decade due to skepticism.

Founding and the Boom (1875–1883)

Interest revived in 1875. Salt Lake City bankers (the Walker brothers) sent prospector William Tecumseh Barbee, who staked about 21 claims and promoted the district. Investors from San Francisco also entered, establishing the Leeds Mine (one of the first major operations). Barbee platted a townsite called Bonanza City with relatively high lot prices. Many miners and merchants preferred cheaper ground to the north on rocky terrain, initially calling their camp “Rockpile” or “Rock Pile.” A merchant from Pioche, Nevada, popularized the name Silver Reef, which stuck. Both names appear on contemporary maps.

The “Pioche Stampede” of late 1875–1876 brought a major influx as Pioche’s mines faced difficulties; roughly one-third of Pioche’s population reportedly relocated. Experienced miners (including Cornish and Irish), merchants, and others arrived, rapidly building a town. By the late 1870s Silver Reef had a mile-long Main Street with numerous businesses: nine grocery stores, six saloons, five restaurants, a newspaper (Silver Reef Echo, later Silver Reef Miner), bank, Wells Fargo Express Office (built 1877–1879 and still standing), hotels (including the Harrison House), brewery, billiard hall, dance halls, jail, and more. A Chinatown developed southwest of the main area, populated largely by Chinese laborers who had worked on the transcontinental railroad. A Catholic church (St. John’s, the first Catholic congregation in southern Utah, founded 1879) served the community and housed a hospital in a rear wing; the town never had an LDS meetinghouse.

Population estimates for the peak years (roughly 1878–1882) range from about 1,500 to 2,000 (U.S. Census 1880 recorded 1,046; a local count around 1884 suggested ~1,500). The district supported multiple stamp mills (including Leeds, Christy, Barbee & Walker, Stormont—the largest—and others). Annual production often exceeded $1 million in ore value during the height. Silver Reef was briefly one of the largest towns in Washington County and provided a vital cash market for nearby Mormon agricultural communities that had struggled with crop failures and isolation. Relations between the mining population and local Latter-day Saints were generally symbiotic economically, though culturally distinct.

Notable events included major fires in May 1879 that destroyed roughly half the downtown buildings (quickly rebuilt) and another that damaged Chinatown; a celebrated Catholic High Mass celebrated by Father Lawrence Scanlan in the St. George Mormon Tabernacle (with local Mormon help); labor tensions; and classic frontier incidents such as shootings and a lynching.

Decline and Abandonment

Decline began around 1881. Key factors included a drop in world silver prices (from roughly $1.20/oz in the late 1870s toward $1.11 by 1883), flooding of deeper mine workings that outpaced pumping capacity, depletion of the richest ores, rising costs, and a miners’ strike after wage cuts (from $4 to $3.50 per day). Many workers left (some for Tombstone, Arizona). Major company operations largely ceased by 1888 (Christy Mill closed that year; Stormont earlier). Lessee operations continued sporadically into the early 1900s (some sources cite 1909 or final closure around 1891).

Total historic production is estimated at over 7 million ounces of silver (more than 219 tons), plus lesser amounts of other metals—valued at roughly $25 million at the time or hundreds of millions in modern dollars depending on silver price. By 1890 the population had fallen to 177; by 1900 few remained beyond lessees. Many buildings were dismantled and materials reused in Leeds and elsewhere (the school building became Leeds Town Hall). A 1908 fire and treasure-hunting (rumors of caches of coins) accelerated the loss of structures.

Later Mining and Modern Era

Revival attempts occurred periodically: around 1898, 1909, 1916 (Silver Reef Consolidated Mining Company under Alex Colbath; later acquired by American Smelting and Refining with little activity due to the Depression), and mid-20th century. From the late 1940s–1950s/early 1960s, Western Gold & Uranium and successors reworked tailings and mined for uranium (and residual silver, copper, gold), constructing a flotation mill and other facilities; production was modest. A later leach-pad attempt in the late 1970s left visible remains.

Today Silver Reef is a partial ghost town intermixed with a modern residential neighborhood (Silver Reef Estates, developed from the 1980s onward). The restored Wells Fargo Express Building (National Register of Historic Places, 1971) houses the Silver Reef Museum, with exhibits on history, mining, and geology, plus walking trails. Other remnants include the rebuilt Cosmopolitan Restaurant, Rice Building/jail, foundations, mine dumps, two cemeteries (Catholic and Protestant), and sealed mine openings (hundreds reclaimed in the 1990s–2000 by the Utah Division of Oil, Gas and Mining while preserving historic appearance and bat habitat). The site illustrates both classic Western boom-and-bust patterns and the unique geology and cultural contrast of southern Utah.

Sources include the Silver Reef Museum historical materials and timeline, Utah Geological Survey, Utah History Encyclopedia, Wikipedia (compiled from primary and secondary sources), Bureau of Land Management, and contemporary accounts. For deeper reading, visit the museum or consult works such as Silver, Sinners and Saints and geological reports by Biek and Rohrer.

Fort Harmony was an early Mormon pioneer settlement and adobe fort in Harmony Valley, on the northern edge of Washington County, Utah (near present-day New Harmony and Interstate 15 Exit 42). It existed primarily from 1854 to 1862 and is now a ghost town site listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Early Exploration and Initial Settlement (1849–1853)

After Mormon pioneers arrived in the Salt Lake Valley in 1847, exploring parties assessed southern Utah’s resources, including potential iron deposits. In late 1849, a party led by Parley P. Pratt explored the region and identified promising areas. John D. Lee, a prominent early settler and member of the Church’s Council of Fifty, played a key role in southern colonization efforts aimed at supporting an anticipated iron industry and establishing agricultural outposts.

In December 1852 (some accounts reference early 1853 activity), a small group including John D. Lee and Elisha H. Groves established an initial settlement called Harmony along Ash Creek (near the site of today’s Ash Creek Reservoir). They built a wooden fort with a few houses. The name honored Harmony, Pennsylvania, associated with the translation of the Book of Mormon. This site proved inadequate—too small, too close to the river (flood risk), and distant from sufficient farmland—so it was largely abandoned.

Washington County was created by the Utah Territorial Legislature in March 1852, with the Harmony area designated as the county seat (though permanent structures came later). The settlement also became linked to the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints’ Southern Indian Mission (sometimes called the mission to the Lamanites), focused on relations with Southern Paiute and other Native peoples. Missionaries taught farming and other skills while seeking conversions.

Construction of Fort Harmony (1854–1855)

In 1854, Brigham Young visited and directed relocation about four miles north to a better site in the middle of the valley. On or around May 9–20, 1854 (sources vary slightly; diaries such as T.D. Brown’s support May 20), Young personally turned the first sod for the southeast corner. Construction proceeded under John D. Lee’s supervision (with input from others, including possibly Truman O. Angell on design aspects) and was largely completed by February 1855.

It was the first fort in the Utah Territory built primarily of adobe brick (following Spanish-influenced suggestions), set on stone footings roughly 3 feet thick. Dimensions are reported variously as about 200 feet or 300 feet square (contemporary accounts and markers lean toward 200–300 feet). Walls were thick (outer walls around 3 feet; interior partitions thinner). The east side had one-story houses against a lower wall (about 10–11 feet high); the west side had two-story houses against a taller wall (about 16 feet high) for better oversight. Gates stood on the north and south sides. A deep well (reports of 86–100 feet) provided culinary water in the center; irrigation came from Kanarra and Harmony Creeks. Corrals for animals were to the south. Houses backed against the walls for defense and efficiency.

The fort housed dozens of families (estimates of population in the hundreds over time, with one mid-1850s report noting about 40 families and 260 people). It served as a hub for colonization south of the Great Basin, a way station for travelers on routes toward California (feeding and sheltering many), headquarters for the Southern Indian Mission, and the Washington County seat from 1856 until 1859 (when the seat shifted as other settlements grew). John D. Lee held local offices including probate judge, clerk, and assessor. Agriculture focused on wheat and other crops; an Indian farm was also established nearby.

Life at the Fort and Broader Context (1855–1861)

Daily life centered on farming, missionary work with local Native groups, community governance, religious activities, and defense preparations amid frontier conditions and the Utah War tensions of 1857. The fort was a key outpost for the Iron Mission region and a resting place for thousands of travelers.

John D. Lee lived there with family members during this period. In September 1857, the Mountain Meadows Massacre occurred roughly 35–40 miles away, in which a wagon train of emigrants (primarily from Arkansas) was attacked, resulting in the deaths of about 120 people. Local militia and some Native allies were involved; Lee was later the only person convicted and executed for his role (in 1877). The fort itself was not the massacre site, but it was Lee’s residence at the time and part of the regional context of high tensions.

An earthquake in 1860 cracked some walls, requiring repairs. Overall, the settlement was a productive agricultural and missionary center for several years.

Destruction and Abandonment (Winter 1861–1862)

The Great Flood of 1862 (part of a broader regional storm event that devastated other southern Utah settlements) brought nearly continuous heavy rain and snow for about 28 days in January–February 1862. The adobe bricks—made without sufficient binding materials such as straw or horsehair—dissolved and crumbled. Walls and buildings collapsed progressively. Families moved into wagons for safety.

By mid-to-late January, most residents had left. On or around February 7, 1862, while John D. Lee’s wife Sarah and some children remained, a gust of wind toppled a wall that crashed through to the lower floor, killing two of their young children: George Albert (about age 6) and Margarett Ann (about age 5). The fort was fully abandoned shortly thereafter (around mid-to-late February). It was never rebuilt.

Survivors relocated: many moved a short distance west to higher ground and founded New Harmony (the modern town); others went east/north to establish Kanarraville (in what is now Iron County). These towns share founding connections and family names from the fort era. New Harmony later developed its own infrastructure (including a schoolhouse by 1863).

Aftermath and the Site Today

The site passed into private hands (including the Schmutz family) and was used for ranching/agriculture. In 1936, the Utah Pioneer Trails and Landmarks Association (with local stake members) erected corner markers of stacked rock/concrete and a monument. The Daughters of Utah Pioneers also placed a marker. The Fort Harmony Site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on November 16, 1979 (reference #79003493). In 2006, land was donated to Washington County with stipulations for protection; limited archaeological work has uncovered foundations, artifacts (pottery, nails, household items, etc.), and features such as rooms and ovens.

Today, little remains above ground beyond foundation traces (visible in places amid sagebrush), the 1930s corner markers, monuments, and interpretive signs. The site lies near the New Harmony Branch of the Washington County Library, just off the road from I-15 Exit 42 toward New Harmony, with views toward the Kolob Canyons section of Zion National Park. It is a quiet historic landmark rather than a developed tourist attraction, preserving the story of early southern Utah colonization, the challenges of adobe construction in a harsh climate, and the transition to lasting towns like New Harmony.

Sources for this account include contemporary diaries and records, National Register documentation, local historical society materials (e.g., Washington County Historical Society), and secondary historical summaries. Minor discrepancies exist in exact measurements, founding dates, and details across accounts, which is typical for 19th-century frontier records.