Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Esmeralda Star Newspaper
The Esmeralda Star was a pivotal publication in the early history of Aurora, a bustling mining town in Esmeralda County, Nevada, during the 1860s. Launched during the height of the region’s gold and silver boom, the newspaper served as a vital source of information, reflecting the social, political, and economic dynamics of a frontier community. This report explores the origins, operations, content, and eventual decline of the Esmeralda Star, drawing on historical records to provide a comprehensive overview of its role in Aurora’s history.
Origins and Establishment
The Esmeralda Star was founded on May 10, 1862, as a weekly newspaper in Aurora, a town established in 1860 following the discovery of rich gold and silver deposits. The paper was initiated by Edwin A. Sherman & Co., with Sherman serving as the primary publisher. The newspaper’s establishment coincided with Aurora’s rapid growth, as the town’s population swelled to approximately 6,000 by 1864, peaking at an estimated 10,000. The Star was a Republican-leaning publication, priced at six dollars per year, and initially published as a twenty-column weekly, measuring 21×28 inches.
Aurora’s unique geopolitical situation shaped the newspaper’s early years. Until a boundary survey in 1863 clarified that Aurora lay entirely in Nevada, the town was claimed by both California and Nevada, even serving as the county seat for Mono County, California, and Esmeralda County, Nevada, simultaneously. This dual governance added complexity to the Star’s operations, as it navigated competing political interests.
The press used for the Star had a storied history. Originally part of the El Dorado Times in Georgetown, California, it was relocated to Aurora in May 1862 via the Owen’s River route, narrowly escaping destruction by hostile Native American groups. The press was escorted by Colonel Evans and Lieutenant Noble of the Second Cavalry California Volunteers, highlighting the challenges of establishing a newspaper in a remote frontier region.
Content and Role in the Community
The Esmeralda Star newspaper covered a wide range of topics relevant to Aurora’s residents, including mining developments, local politics, business activities, and social events. As a Republican publication, it maintained a strong Unionist stance during the Civil War, a position that was not without risk in a region where secessionist sentiments and outlaws were prevalent. The newspaper’s editorials were noted for their independent tone and loyalty to the Union, earning it both support from loyalists and enmity from “copperheads” and secessionists.
The Star also played a significant role in promoting Aurora’s interests. It advocated for infrastructure improvements, such as the Esmeralda Toll Road, which connected Aurora to San Francisco and facilitated the import of supplies. The newspaper’s editorials often highlighted the town’s economic potential, aiming to attract investment and settlers to the mining district. Despite challenges such as scarce printers, the Star upgraded to a semi-weekly publication on June 24, 1863, reflecting its growing influence and the community’s demand for timely news.
The newspaper’s content was not limited to local matters. It included national news, particularly updates on the Civil War, as well as advertisements for local businesses, such as saloons, general stores, and mining equipment suppliers. The Star also published legal notices, marriage announcements, and obituaries, serving as a historical record of Aurora’s transient population. Its role as a community voice was critical in a town marked by rapid growth and social instability, including issues like horse theft and lawlessness.
Challenges and Operations
Operating a newspaper in Aurora presented significant logistical and social challenges. The town’s isolation, surrounded by rugged terrain, made the delivery of supplies like paper, ink, and type difficult, especially during harsh winters. The Star’s press and materials had to be shipped over treacherous routes, and the newspaper frequently faced shortages of skilled printers, which delayed its plans for more frequent publication.
Politically, the Star operated in a volatile environment. Its pro-Union stance made it a target for secessionist groups, and Sherman noted the risks of publishing a Union paper in a region with “armed bodies of secessionists.” Despite these threats, the newspaper maintained its editorial independence and avoided debt, even investing in new type to improve its print quality. This financial stability was attributed to the support of Aurora’s loyalist community, which valued the Star’s contributions to the town’s development.
The clarification of Aurora’s location in Nevada in 1863 prompted a change in the newspaper’s masthead to reflect its new status as part of Esmeralda County, Nevada. This adjustment underscored the Star’s adaptability to the region’s evolving political landscape.
Decline and Cessation
The Esmeralda Star ceased publication in March 1864, a victim of Aurora’s declining fortunes. The town’s shallow mines, most less than 100 feet deep, were exhausted by the late 1860s, leading to a mass exodus of residents. By 1870, Aurora’s population had plummeted, and the town’s infrastructure, including the Star’s printing facilities, was dismantled or repurposed. Many of Aurora’s buildings were stripped for materials, and the newspaper’s press likely met a similar fate.
The Star’s suspension paved the way for the Esmeralda Daily Union, which began publication on March 21, 1864, under the editorship of Rev. J.B. Saxton. However, the Union focused on different editorial priorities and did not directly continue the Star’s legacy. The Star’s brief but impactful run captured the vibrancy and challenges of Aurora’s boom years, leaving behind a valuable historical record of a fleeting frontier community.
Legacy and Historical Significance
The Esmeralda Star newspaper is remembered as the pioneer newspaper of Esmeralda County, encapsulating the spirit of Nevada’s early mining frontier. Its archives, though limited, provide historians with insights into the daily life, politics, and economy of Aurora during its peak. The newspaper’s commitment to Unionist principles and its role in fostering community identity highlight its importance as a cultural institution in a transient mining town.
Today, surviving copies of the Esmeralda Star are preserved in microfilm and archival collections, such as those accessible through the Library of Congress and the Chronicling America project. These records are invaluable for researchers studying Nevada’s mining history, journalism in the American West, and the socio-political dynamics of the Civil War era. The Star’s story also resonates in popular culture, with references to Aurora’s history appearing in works like Mark Twain’s Roughing It, as Twain briefly lived in Aurora in 1862.
Conclusion
The Esmeralda Star was more than a newspaper; it was a lifeline for Aurora’s residents, documenting the rise and fall of a quintessential mining boomtown. From its founding in 1862 to its closure in 1864, the Star navigated the challenges of frontier journalism with resilience and purpose. Its legacy endures in the historical record, offering a window into the fleeting but vibrant world of Aurora, Nevada, during the 1860s.
References
- Chronicling America, Library of Congress.
- History of Nevada, Myron Angel (1881).
Gecko Campground
Gecko Campground is the largest campground in the Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area, located near Glamis and Holtville, Imperial County,,California, approximately 23 miles east of Brawley. Managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), it is a prime destination for off-highway vehicle (OHV) enthusiasts, offering direct access to the expansive sand dunes that stretch across a 40-mile by 5-mile area, with some dunes reaching heights of up to 300 feet. The campground is particularly popular during the winter months (October to May) due to milder temperatures, especially around holiday weekends like Christmas and New Years. Summer camping is not recommended as temperatures often exceed 100°F.
Location and Access
- Address: Gecko Road, Holtville, CA 92250
- Coordinates: Latitude 32.94206000, Longitude -115.13880000
- Directions:
- From Brawley, CA: Take Highway 78 east for about 23 miles, turn onto Gecko Road, and the campground is on the left.
- From Yuma, AZ: Take Interstate 8 west to Ogilby Road (Exit 166), drive north to Highway 78, then head west to Gecko Road.
- Contact: (760) 337-4400
- Website: BLM Imperial Sand Dunes
Campground Features
- Layout: The campground consists of two large paved loops—North Loop and South Loop—making it accessible for RVs, trailers, and other vehicles.
- Amenities:
- Numerous vault toilets are available throughout both loops.
- Fire rings are provided at most sites for campfires.
- No hookups, potable water, or trash services are available, so campers must bring their own water, supplies, and pack out all trash in accordance with BLM’s Leave No Trace policy.
- Camping Style: Primitive, dry camping with a 14-day stay limit. Sites are first-come, first-served, with no reservations accepted.
- Fees: A 7-day pass costs approximately $75 (based on older data; check with BLM for current pricing).
Recreation and Activities
- OHV Riding: The primary draw is off-roading, with hundreds of square miles of dunes available for ATVs, motorcycles, and side-by-sides (SxS). Popular nearby spots include Oldsmobile Hill and the dunes south of Highway 78.
- Hiking and Exploration: The nearby North Algodones Dunes Wilderness is designated for non-motorized activities like hiking and horseback riding. The Alamo River Trail offers a scenic path along a canal.
- Fishing: Anglers with a valid California fishing license can fish in the Coachella Canal for species like channel catfish, largemouth bass, and flathead catfish.
- Nearby Attractions: The Hugh T. Osborne Lookout Park offers picnic facilities and expansive dune views.
Visitor Information
- Best Time to Visit: Winter months (October to May) are ideal due to cooler temperatures. Peak season brings crowds, so early arrival is recommended.
- Connectivity: Verizon and AT&T cell service are generally reliable, though coverage may vary.
- Safety Notes: The area is known for high OHV activity, so expect noise from motorcycles and ATVs. Sand dunes can be dangerous; visitors should be experienced with off-roading and aware of safety regulations.
- Regulations: The area is well-regulated to ensure safety, a shift from its reputation in the 1990s as an unregulated off-road party spot.
Tips for Campers
- Bring all necessary supplies, including water, firewood, and battery/solar-powered equipment, as the campground is primitive.
- Be prepared for a lively atmosphere, especially during peak seasons, due to OHV activity.
- Check with the Cahuilla Ranger Station (open weekends in winter) for additional information or updates.
- For those seeking quieter alternatives, nearby primitive campgrounds like Roadrunner Campground or Glamis Flats may be options, though they also lack amenities.
Gecko Campground is an excellent choice for those looking to immerse themselves in the thrill of the Imperial Sand Dunes while enjoying a no-frills desert camping experience under starry skies.
Bullfrog Mining District
The Bullfrog Mining District is located in the Bullfrog Hills of Nye County, southwestern Nevada, near the town of Beatty and close to the eastern edge of Death Valley. It lies in a desert basin surrounded by volcanic hills, about 120 miles northwest of Las Vegas.
Geology
The district is part of the southern Walker Lane trend, characterized by brittle deformation in upper-plate volcanic rocks due to detachment faulting and associated dip-slip and strike-slip displacements. The primary host rocks are Tertiary volcanic units, including rhyolitic flows and tuffs (such as rhyolite No. 1 and No. 2, with interbedded limestone in places). Ore deposits are epithermal, featuring quartz-calcite veins with micron-sized gold, often in stockworks. Oxidation is widespread, with pyrite altering to limonite, calcite partially dissolving, and manganese oxides developing. Native gold (alloyed with silver) dominates, with some cerargyrite (horn silver) in richer zones; minor sulfides like pyrite, chalcocite, or galena occur locally. Veins are typically fine-grained quartz intergrown with calcite, and ores range from high-grade surface bonanzas ($100–$700/ton initially) to lower-grade milling material (often <$15/ton average).
History and Early Development
Gold was discovered on August 9, 1904, by prospectors Frank “Shorty” Harris and Ernest “Ed” Cross (or Eddie Cross), who located the Original Bullfrog Mine on a prominent quartz outcrop with green-stained ore (possibly inspiring the “Bullfrog” name due to color or shape). Assays showed high values up to $700/ton or more. The rush followed discoveries at Tonopah and Goldfield, spurring prospecting in the region. Claims quickly covered the area, and tent camps emerged.
Towns sprang up rapidly:
- Bullfrog (near the original discovery, adjoined Rhyolite later).
- Rhyolite (laid out in February 1905, became the main town and “metropolis” of the district; peaked at 3,500–5,000 residents in 1907–1908 with amenities like electricity, water, telephones, newspapers, a hospital, school, opera house, and stock exchange).
- Beatty (4 miles east, on the Amargosa River; survives today as the only lasting settlement).
- Others like Amargosa City (early tent camp, abandoned) and Bonanza.
Transportation improved with railroads: Las Vegas & Tonopah, Bullfrog Goldfield, and Tonopah & Tidewater lines connected the area.
The district boomed briefly but declined after rich surface ores depleted and deeper mining faced issues like litigation (e.g., at Montgomery-Shoshone) and lower grades. Early production (pre-1911) focused on high-grade shipping ore.
Significant Mines, Owners, and Mills
- Original Bullfrog Mine — Discovered 1904 by Harris and Cross; minor early production; some chalcocite noted.
- Montgomery-Shoshone Mine (most important) — Discovered 1904; underground to 700 ft; owned by Montgomery-Shoshone Consolidated Mining Company (litigation delayed early work); later bought by industrialist Charles M. Schwab (1906), who invested in infrastructure. A 300-ton-per-day cyanidation mill processed ore; produced ~67,000 gold equivalent ounces from ~141,000 tons (1907–1911, average ~0.48 oz/ton gold).
- Polaris Mine (adjacent) — Produced ~4,900 oz gold from ~9,500 tons (~0.52 oz/ton).
- Others: Bullfrog, Gibraltar, Tramps groups; Bonanza Mountain; Ladd Mountain areas.
Early mills included the Montgomery-Shoshone cyanidation mill (key for processing lower-grade ore).
Through 1911, the district produced ~94,000 oz gold (mostly early high-grade).
Later Production (Modern Era)
Minor activity post-1911 until modern exploration in the 1980s. St. Joe American explored from 1982; Bond International Gold (later acquired by LAC Minerals, then Barrick Gold in 1994) developed the Barrick Bullfrog Mine (open-pit and underground from 1989–1999). A ~9,000-tpd cyanidation mill/heap leach processed ore. Total modern production: ~2,328,852–2,313,643 oz gold and ~2.5–3 million oz silver from ~28.8 million tons ore (average ~0.081 oz/ton gold).
Overall Production, Tonnage, and Value
Early phase (1904–1911): Focused on high-grade; total ~94,000 oz gold. For 1907: 9,050 tons ore yielding $207,538 (~$132,428 gold, $74,991 silver, minor Cu/Pb). 1907–1910: ~$1,687,792 total value.
Full historical (pre-modern): ~112,000 oz gold and ~869,000 oz silver (1905–1921 estimates).
Modern (1989–1999): ~2.3+ million oz gold from ~28–29 million tons ore.
The district’s early boom contributed to Nevada’s economic revival post-1900, despite its short-lived peak. Rhyolite became a famous ghost town, while Beatty persists. Recent projects (e.g., Augusta Gold’s Bullfrog Gold Project) explore remaining resources in the area.
Dog Town, California
Dog Town holds a pivotal place in the history of California’s eastern Sierra Nevada as the site of the first major gold rush on the eastern slope of the mountains. Located in Mono County, near the modern Highway 395 (approximately 7 miles south of Bridgeport and close to the turnoff for the famous Bodie ghost town), Dog Town was a short-lived placer mining camp during the broader California Gold Rush era.
Founding and Early Development
The camp was established around 1857 by German prospector Carl (or Cord) Norst, who, along with his wife Mary (a Native American woman), set up a basic camp along what became known as Dog Town Creek (near the confluence with Virginia Creek). They built a dugout house with rock walls and began panning for placer gold—loose gold deposits in streambeds that could be extracted without deep mining.
Rumors of gold near Mono Lake spread quickly, drawing prospectors to the area. By 1859, a group of Mormon miners from Nevada arrived, staked claims, and helped establish a small mining camp and trading center. At its peak, the settlement reportedly housed around 100 miners, living in primitive huts, hovels, and dugouts—earning the name “Dog Town” from a miners’ slang term for rough, dog-like living conditions in makeshift camps.
This marked the beginning of organized gold prospecting on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, predating more famous boomtowns in the region.
Economic Role in the Area
Dog Town’s economy was almost entirely based on placer mining, with some later hydraulic methods mentioned in accounts. Miners panned and dug along the creeks, extracting gold from alluvial deposits. While never highly profitable overall, the camp produced notable finds, including reports of one of the largest gold nuggets discovered on the eastern Sierra slope.
Its production was modest compared to later strikes—exact figures are unknown, but combined with nearby areas like Monoville, several million dollars in gold may have been extracted from the broader region in the early years.
Dog Town played a crucial catalytic role in the regional economy:
- It sparked the first significant influx of prospectors to the eastern Sierra, proving gold existed beyond the western slopes.
- The initial rush drew attention eastward, leading miners to relocate quickly to richer discoveries.
- In 1859, founder Norst (or others) found better deposits about 5-6 miles east, prompting most residents to abandon Dog Town for Monoville (overlooking Mono Lake), which briefly became a more substantial town and even a candidate for Mono County seat.
- Subsequent richer strikes in Aurora (Nevada), Bodie (starting in the 1870s with massive gold and silver output), and Masonic built on the momentum Dog Town initiated.
- The camp served as a primitive supply and trading hub in its brief heyday, supporting the flow of miners and goods into the isolated high-desert region.
Though Dog Town itself declined rapidly—abandoned within a couple of years as miners chased better prospects—it ignited the chain of discoveries that fueled the eastern Sierra’s mining economy for decades. Bodie, for example, grew into a major boomtown with up to 10,000 residents and tens of millions in gold/silver production by the 1880s, far outstripping Dog Town’s output but owing its origins indirectly to the earlier eastern slope rush.
Decline and Legacy
By the early 1860s, Dog Town was largely deserted, with residents moving to Monoville or other sites. There were minor reworkings of the diggings in the late 1870s–1880s during Bodie’s peak, but no sustained revival occurred. Today, only ruins remain—scattered remnants of rock walls and foundations near the creek, visible from Highway 395.
Designated California Historical Landmark No. 792 in 1964, the site is marked with plaques describing it as “the site of the first major gold rush to the eastern slope of California’s Sierra Nevada.” Ruins lie close to the cliff bordering Dog Town Creek.
In summary, while Dog Town was economically minor and fleeting, its role as the spark for the eastern Sierra gold rush was foundational. It drew prospectors across the mountains, set the stage for larger booms like Bodie, and contributed to the broader economic development of Mono County and the surrounding region during the late 1850s Gold Rush era.
Potato Bottom Campground
Potato Bottom Campground is a remote backcountry camping area along the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, situated along the banks of the Green River. The campground features three designated sites (Potato Bottom A, B, and C), each accommodating up to three vehicles and 15 people, designed to provide privacy with sites spaced to minimize visibility and noise from one another. Located at approximately 4,100 feet elevation, the campground offers scenic views of the Green River, surrounded by red rock cliffs, cottonwood trees, and open desert landscapes, with distant mesas visible on clear days. The sites are primitive, with no potable water, limited shade, or wind protection, requiring campers to bring all supplies, including at least 1 gallon (4 liters) of water per person per day. A vault toilet is shared among the sites, though some campers note odors during warmer months. The terrain is a mix of sandy and rocky ground, suitable for tents but potentially challenging for securing stakes in sandy areas near the river. Stargazing is exceptional due to the remote location and minimal light pollution, with visitors describing the night sky as “breathtakingly clear.” Access requires a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle, as the trail to Potato Bottom includes rugged sections, sandy washes, and occasional river-adjacent paths, making it unsuitable for standard vehicles or large trucks with oversized campers (e.g., Ford F-350 with large campers). Overnight permits are required, costing $36 for the reservation plus $5 per person per night, and are highly competitive, particularly in spring and fall. Potato Bottom’s riverside setting and relatively flat terrain make it a favored stop for White Rim Trail adventurers seeking a serene, scenic campsite.
White Rim Trail
The White Rim Trail is a renowned 100-mile loop in Canyonlands National Park’s Island in the Sky district, celebrated for its challenging terrain and stunning desert scenery. This high-clearance 4×4 route, also popular among mountain bikers, traces the “white rim” ledge between the mesa top and the Green and Colorado Rivers below, offering panoramic views of red rock canyons, towering buttes, and river valleys. Key highlights include Gooseneck Overlook, Musselman Arch, White Crack (with vistas of the Maze and Needles districts), and Murphy Hogback, known for its 360-degree panoramas. The trail features a mix of wide dirt roads, sandy stretches, and technical jeep trails with cliff exposure, particularly at Shafer Trail, Lathrop Canyon Road, Murphy Hogback, Hardscrabble Hill, and Mineral Bottom switchbacks. With an elevation gain of approximately 9,160 feet, the route is moderately difficult for vehicles and strenuous for cyclists, typically taking 2-3 days to complete, though experienced bikers may attempt it in one day. Permits are required for both day-use and overnight trips, with 20 designated campsites across 10 areas, including Potato Bottom Campground. No potable water is available, and high water on the Green River (May-June) can flood western sections, potentially preventing a full loop. The best seasons are spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) for milder temperatures and stable weather, as summer brings extreme heat and winter may bring closures.