Tag: Bodie

Bodie, located in the eastern Sierra Nevada mountains of California, is one of the best-preserved ghost towns in the United States. Once a booming gold mining town in the late 19th century, Bodie now stands as a testament to the wild and often lawless era of the American West. At its peak, it boasted a population of around 10,000 residents and was infamous for its rowdy saloons, opulent gambling halls, and thriving red-light district. Today, Bodie is a state historic park, where visitors can explore its well-preserved buildings, including a church, schoolhouse, and numerous homes and businesses. The town’s arresting state of “arrested decay,” where structures are maintained but not fully restored, offers a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into the past, capturing the imagination of those who walk its dusty streets.

Bodie: Good Times & Bad

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Bodie, Good Time and Bad - Author Nicholas Clapp
Bodie, Good Time and Bad – Author Nicholas Clapp

Author Nicholas Clapp and photographer Will Furman portray Bodie in both vivid words and stunning photography—a town that had two sides, aptly described in an 1870s account…On the eve of her family’s departure for booming Bodie, a little girl was said to have gathered her dolls, that they might join her as she knelt by her bed, her prayer concluding with a somber…“Goodbye, God; we are going to Bodie!” Word was that the camp was hard-bitten, desperado-ridden.Getting wind of the girl’s farewell to the Almighty, The Weekly Bodie Standard reported that, oh no, that wasn’t what the she had mind. Not at all. Someone had gotten the punctuation wrong. What she surely said was…“Good, by God, we are going to Bodie!” There were, in fact, two Bodies. On one hand, it was “a fearfully and wonderfully bad place” stalked by shootist in black swallow-tailed coats. On the other hand, it was a town of hard-working pioneers who dressed their little girls in starched white frocks and met adversity with charity and good cheer. As he passed through, Mark Twain mused that in Bodie virtue versus vice made for exciting times, and he’d have it no other way. He was to add, “It was a plain wonder how man carried on under such circumstances.”

About The Author

Award-winning documentary filmmaker and author Nicholas Clapp has studied, filmed, and written the deserts of the world. With a master’s degree in cinema from the University of Southern California, his first professional break came when he produced and directed The Great Mojave Desert, a one-hour special for CBS and the National Geographic Society. He has won over 70 major film awards for his documentary work.

Book Summary

TitleBodie: Good Times & Bad
AuthorNicholaw Clapp
PublisherSunbelt Publishing
Pages112 Pages

References

James Stuart Cain

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James Stuart Cain (April 17, 1853 – October 28, 1938) was a business man and entrepreneur who lived and worked in the mining town of Bodie, California.

Early Life and Background

James Stuart Cain was born on April 17, 1853, in Rockburn, Lower Canada (now Québec, Canada), to David Cain and Jennet Stuart, both of Irish descent. Raised in a Church of Scotland household, James grew up in Huntingdon East, Quebec, alongside his six siblings: Isaac, Elizabeth, Catherine, Ellen, Euphemia, and Jemima. His early life was rooted in a rural Canadian community, where he was baptized in Valleyfield in 1855. By 1871, at age 18, James was still living with his family, preparing for a life of opportunity beyond the confines of his hometown.

Arrival in Bodie and Early Ventures

At the age of 25, James Stuart Cain arrived in Bodie, California, a booming gold-mining town, in 1878. Seeking fortune in the rugged American West, Cain quickly established himself as a shrewd entrepreneur. One of his first ventures was transporting timber across Mono Lake to Bodie, a critical resource for mine shoring, construction, and fuel. This lumber business laid the foundation for his growing empire, as wood was essential for Bodie’s mines, steam engines, homes, and daily life.

Cain’s ambition extended beyond timber. Partnering with a business associate, he leased a mining claim from the Standard Consolidated Mining Company, extracting $90,000 in gold in just 90 days—an extraordinary sum at the time. When the company refused to renew the lease, Cain leveraged legal action to gain control of the mill, further solidifying his wealth and influence. His mining ventures included serving as president of the Southern Consolidated Mining Company, demonstrating his ability to navigate the competitive and often cutthroat mining industry.

Business Empire and the Bodie Bank

By 1890, Cain had purchased the Bodie Bank from E.L. Benedict, a pivotal move that expanded his financial control over the town. He began acquiring properties throughout Bodie, eventually owning a majority of the town by the time California State Parks took over in the 20th century. His business acumen transformed him into one of Bodie’s richest and most powerful figures, with interests spanning mining, banking, and real estate. The J.S. Cain House, his residence, became a symbol of his prominence and is now a preserved landmark in Bodie’s historic district.

Cain’s enterprises were not without challenges. Bodie’s harsh environment, coupled with the volatile nature of mining towns, demanded resilience and adaptability. Yet, Cain’s strategic investments and relentless drive ensured his dominance in the local economy. His ability to seize opportunities, such as acquiring distressed properties and consolidating his holdings, set him apart as a quintessential capitalist of the American frontier.

Personal Life

On July 17, 1884, at age 31, James Stuart Cain married Martha D. Wells in Mono County, California. The couple settled in Bodie, where they raised four children: David Victor, Delilah J., James Isaac, and Stuart Wells. By 1900, the Cain family lived comfortably, supported by James’s wealth and status. Tragically, their son James Isaac passed away before his father’s death. Cain’s family remained closely tied to Bodie, with his son David Victor later becoming a prominent businessman and owning a home across from the Methodist Church.

Cain was a member of Winnedumah Lodge No. 287, F. & A.M., in Bishop, California, reflecting his involvement in fraternal organizations, which were common among influential men of the era. His sister, Mary Denham, remained in Rockburn, Québec, maintaining a connection to his Canadian roots.

Later Years and Legacy

James Stuart Cain continued to oversee his business interests into his later years, maintaining his grip on Bodie’s economy even as the town’s gold rush era waned. By the early 20th century, Bodie’s population dwindled, but Cain’s legacy endured through his extensive property holdings and the wealth he amassed. He moved to San Francisco in his final years, where he died on October 28, 1938, at the age of 85. He was laid to rest at Woodlawn Memorial Park in Colma, San Mateo County, California.

Cain’s impact on Bodie is still evident today. The J.S. Cain House and other properties he owned are preserved as part of Bodie State Historic Park, offering a glimpse into the life of a man who shaped a quintessential Wild West town. His story is one of ambition, tenacity, and entrepreneurial spirit, embodying the opportunities and challenges of America’s frontier era. The Cain family’s ownership of much of Bodie underscores his enduring influence, as does the continued recognition of his contributions to the town’s history.

Bodie and Aurora rivalry continues to this day

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Two towns located in the hills above Mono Lake maintain, the Bodie and Aurora rivalry continues even now, long past their demise.  Bodie, CA and Aurora, NV boomed with the gold rush of the 1870s and busted just years later when the gold ran out and faded into history.  Miners, merchants, and people would undoubtedly moved either direction between the two cities and with good fortune would undoubtedly talk down the previous city.  Such is human nature, but why would this rivalry continue long past the demise of both towns?

The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun
The Standard Mill, Bodie, CA. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Bodie, CA is the crown jewel of ghost towns.  Maintained in a state of arrested decay and located just 13 miles off the 395 highway outside of Bridgeport, CA, Bodie hosts over 100,000 visitors each year.  The current site has some 100 structures, flush toilets, museum, guided tours, on-site staff, a website, Facebook presence and a gift shop.  (I own two coffee mugs and three shirts)  During a visit two Bodie, I over heard two fellow visitors joking about a StarBucks coffee located near the fire station.  Bodie, justifiably is a popular place to visit, there are many people there when you visit.

Aurora, NV Photograph by James L Rathbun
Aurora, NV Photograph by James L Rathbun

By contrast, Aurora is a forgotten intersection of two roads.  The town was raised long ago for its brick, and only two structures are not lost two the bush and those are unrecognizable monuments to the towns past.  Few visitors will reach the town site of Aurora and those who do might be disappointed in what they find.  By almost any measure there is no comparison in the quality of a visit to the two towns in modern times.  So, why would there be an active effort on the part of those affiliated with Bodie to discourage visitor from driving to Aurora? Does the Bodie and Aurora rivalry continue to this day?

On a visit in June, 2016 I walked into the museum and spoke with one of the park staff / ranger to inquire about Aurora.  I told the ranger I was planning to drive to Aurora and asked “How many miles is it to Aurora?”

The Ranger replied, “I think it is about 30 miles?”

I answered, “Well, I thought it was about 9 miles, but I don’t remember the source so I could be wrong.”  I thanked him and moved on.

Perplexed a bit, I walked around the museum and studied a few exhibits.   Once of the exhibits I saw was a hand written note / map, which noted that it was 6 miles to the Nevada border and Aurora was 10 miles past that point.  I returned to the Ranger at the front desk and told him, “Apparently, we are both wrong you have a document which states it is 16 miles to Aurora.”

He replied, “Well, it can be a rough road and I heard the bridge is out.”

Again, I thanked him and walked off towards the jeep.  Rough roads do not cause much concern, and a bridge being out is a binary concern.  We can either pass or not pass and will not know until we get there.  I loaded my family into the jeep, reset the trip odometer and sent off east towards Aurora.  We followed the road and Bodie Creek North from Bodie and soon we reached a small bridge.   As we drove over the bridge, I thought to myself, “Well so much from that bridge being out…”

As we continued down Bodie Creek there was another bridge, which was indeed out but immediately the obstacle was passable via the road to the right.    The bypass simple dropped down a few feet, crossed Bodie Creek and up the other side.  Not any issue with our Jeep JK.  We continued down the road and made a right turn to climb the hill into Aurora.  We soon reach an valley covered in sage brush with a wooden structure which appeared to be a head frame.  A moment later we reached and intersection and another concrete structure which was the remains of a building.  Surely, this must the Aurora.

Everything about the small valley was screaming Aurora.  The map told me we found Aurora.  Memories from my last visit 30 years prior told me it was Aurora.  The structural remains told me we found Aurora.  Everything told me that we found Aurora, except my trip odometer.  Since my cell phone GPS is worthless with no Internet connection, the one piece of measuring equipment told me I was 5 miles off of my destination.  After lunch we headed out again and soon found ourselves in the highlands above Mono Lake in extremely rough terrain.  We finally reached mile 16 and knew that the distance measurement found in the Bodie Museum was flat out wrong and wrong in a big way!

Remains of Aurora bricks found deep in the undergrowth. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Remains of Aurora bricks found deep in the undergrowth. Photograph by James L Rathbun

We turned around and returned to the site we believed to be Aurora.  Again we checked the maps, and everything appeared to match.  We had an intersection with another road.  We had a few limited structures.  One further investigation, we began to see flattened buildings in the over growth of sage brush.  Two structures became several.  As I walked through the thigh high sage brush, I looked down and saw bricks!  Bricks are the sure sign that we found Aurora!

Photographic landscape comparison between our trip and a historical photograph.
Photographic landscape comparison between our trip and a historical photograph.  The angles are slightly different but clearly the hillside line up.

So, how do we explain the differences in the distances.   My memory, which is fallible, was 9 miles.  The Ranger told me about 30, which I believed was way off.  The map in the museum told me 16 miles, and my odometer measured 11.5.  I reset my odometer and drove back to Bodie and duplicated my initial measurement of 11.5 miles and made a mental note of the dilemma.  Why is the distance so wrong?  I am willing the accept a slight variation in the mileage measurement of the jeep.  I have 35″ tires on the 4×4 and the gears are changed to 5.13:1.  The computer was changed to reflect these modifications.  This could explain a slight variation but not 4 miles over 16 if the program parameters are not exact or correct.

When we returned to camp that night I checked the “Bodie State Historic Park” guide purchased when I arrived at Bodie and published and revised in 2010.  On page one there is a town map with a reference to Aurora at a distance of 18 miles away!!!  Great, another number for the distance between the two towns.

When I arrived home I opened up Google Earth and check my measurement for the Bodie to Aurora Trail.  This measurement from Google Earth is 12.1 miles are more or less corroborates my measurement.  So, why would California State Parks publish an erroneous value and lengthen the distance of the Road from Bodie to Aurora?  Could the fact that California “lost” Aurora to  and its revenue to Nevada when the area was surveyed in 1863 explain this behavior?   Does the Bodie and Aurora rivalry between the two towns continue?  Could it be that the mile distances site actually describe a longer route around the mountain to the north west of Aurora.  Perhaps no one from California State Parks has checked?

I prefer to think of this is the last argument in the rivalry between two lost mining towns. An underhanded slight to history. The Bodie and Aurora rivalry continues…

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