Artist Drive

Artist Drive is perhaps one of the most popular and scenic drives through a colorful palette of geology, located in Death Valley National Park, California. Artist drive is a one way road about nine miles long which takes just about two hour to complete provided you take the time to hike a few of the short trails. The road is a popular destination for hikers and bikers as well as motor vehicles. From the drivers perspective, the road can be quite fun to drive and it twists and turns up and down the colorful hillside.

The hills which contain burst of color were formed by volcanic deposits of different compounds such as iron oxides and chlorite, which creates a rainbow effect of color. There is no bad time to visit, however, the photographer will appreciate the warm afternoon sunlight enhancing the natural colors in the soil. The best features are on a westward facing slope which really benefits from the late hours in the day.

While the colors of the location are amazing, do not forget to turn around the allow the scenic vistas of Death Valley to take your breath away. On a visit during a three day weekend in February 2022, I was surprised by the volume of people on the route. All of the parking lanes were full and it became quite difficult photographically due to the visitors. I will say, that during this time the COVID pandemic was relaxing and it was really nice seeing people enjoying themselves outside.

Prior to becoming a National Park, Assist’s Drive and some of the nearby valley’s were a filming location for the movie Star Wars.

Artist Drive Map

The multicolored rock formations along Artist’s Drive (particularly at the famous Artist’s Palette viewpoint) in Death Valley National Park create one of the most striking natural displays in the American Southwest. These vibrant hues result from ancient volcanic activity over 5 million years ago, when eruptions deposited ash, metals, and minerals that were later altered by hydrothermal processes, chemical weathering, and oxidation.

Here are the main rock colors you’ll see splashed across the hillsides, along with the primary minerals responsible for each:

Reds, Pinks, and Oranges

These warm, fiery tones dominate many areas and often appear as bold streaks or bands. They come from iron oxides (especially hematite), which form through the oxidation of iron-rich compounds in the volcanic rocks

Yellows and Golds

Bright mustard, golden, and sunny yellow patches blend beautifully with the reds. These are also produced by various iron oxides in different stages of oxidation and weathering.

Purples and Lavenders

The cooler, softer purple and lavender shades create a dreamy contrast. These colors are caused by manganese minerals that oxidize to produce these distinctive hues.

Greens

Vivid green sections stand out dramatically against the warmer tones. The green primarily comes from the decomposition of tuff-derived mica or weathered volcanic tuff, sometimes involving chlorite.

Overall Landscape Views

The full palette comes alive especially in late afternoon or sunset light, when the low sun angle intensifies the colors and creates dramatic shadows.

The result is a surreal, painterly landscape that looks almost too vivid to be natural — truly living up to its name as Artist’s Palette! The colors can shift subtly depending on the time of day, weather, and lighting, making every visit feel unique.

References

Zabriskie Point

Zabriskie Point is perhaps one of the best known and popular overlooks in the entire Death Valley National Park, California. The landmark is named for Christian Brevoort Zabriskie who was the Vice President of the Pacific Coast Borax Company.

Zabriskie Point bathed in warm afternoon light in Death Valley National Park - Photo by James L Rathbun
Zabriskie Point bathed in warm afternoon light in Death Valley National Park – Photo by James L Rathbun

The elevated overlook of a huge area of yellow-brown-black ancient mud lands composed of sediments from the ancient Furnace Creek Lake. A short hike from the parking lot allows is a visitor to see the expanse of the badlands. A longer hike will take the explorer down through Golden Canyon to the floor of Death National National Park. The site is best visited during the “golden hours” of warm light in the evening and mornings. The best viewing occurs at sunrise.

Zabriskie Point - Photo by James L Rathbun
Zabriskie Point – Photo by James L Rathbun

The site was made famous in popular culture by a movie from 1970 of the same name. For those of us who grew up in the 1980s, the cover of the U2 Album, The Joshua Tree features a photograph by Anton Corbijn at Zabriskie Point.

The cover of The Joshua Tree by U2 was taken in Death Valley - photograph by Anton Corbijn
The cover of The Joshua Tree by U2 was taken in Death Valley – photograph by Anton Corbijn

The only draw back with visiting this location is that it is almost always crowded during the prime months.

Zabriskie Point Map

References

Badwater Basin

Badwater Basin, located in Death Valley National Park, Inyo County, California, is the lowest point in North America, sitting at 282 feet (86 meters) below sea level. This endorheic basin spans approximately 200 square miles (518 square km) and is characterized by vast salt flats composed primarily of sodium chloride (table salt), along with calcite, gypsum, and borax. The basin features a small, spring-fed pool near Badwater Road, named “Badwater” due to its high salinity, which renders the water undrinkable. Despite this, the pool supports unique life forms, including the endemic Badwater snail, aquatic insects, and salt-tolerant plants like pickleweed. The surrounding salt flats form striking hexagonal patterns due to repeated freeze-thaw and evaporation cycles, creating a surreal, otherworldly landscape. A notable “sea level” sign on the cliffs above the basin highlights its extreme elevation, and the dramatic vertical relief to Telescope Peak (11,049 feet) in the Panamint Range, visible to the west, underscores the region’s rugged topography. The basin’s extreme heat, with summer temperatures often exceeding 120°F (49°C), and its high evaporation rate of 150 inches annually make it one of the harshest environments in the United States. Visitors can access the basin via a boardwalk from the parking lot off Badwater Road, with the best views of the salt polygons requiring a 1.5- to 2-mile roundtrip walk onto the flats.

Badwater Basin located at 282 feet below sea level in Death Valley National Park. - Photo by James L Rathbun
Badwater Basin located at 282 feet below sea level in Death Valley National Park. – Photo by James L Rathbun

History

Badwater Basin’s name originates from a story of an early prospector whose mule refused to drink from the salty pool, leading to the moniker “Badwater.” Before becoming part of Death Valley National Park, the area was an active mining region for centuries, with prospectors like Alexander “Shorty” Borden and Walter Scott exploring for valuable minerals.

The basin’s geological history spans millions of years, shaped by tectonic activity, erosion, and climatic shifts since at least the Pleistocene epoch (possibly up to 3 million years ago). During wetter periods, streams from surrounding mountains filled Death Valley, forming Lake Manly, which at its peak was 80 miles long and up to 600 feet deep. As an endorheic lake with no outlet, Lake Manly’s evaporation led to hypersalinity, leaving behind thick salt deposits (95% sodium chloride) that form the basin’s iconic crust, ranging from 3 to 60 inches thick. Periodic flooding from rare rainstorms temporarily revives Lake Manly, as seen in 2005 and 2023, but the water quickly evaporates, redepositing clean salt crystals. The region’s geological cycles, influenced by the nearby San Andreas Fault and the Colorado River’s alluvial deposits, have created a dynamic landscape of evaporating and reforming lakes over the Quaternary Period.

Despite its arid appearance, Death Valley sits atop one of the world’s largest aquifers, a remnant of these ancient water systems. Badwater Basin also holds historical significance for Native American settlements, which utilized the desert’s resources, and for 19th-century explorers and settlers who braved its harsh conditions during westward expansion.

Today, it remains a popular tourist destination, drawing visitors to its stark beauty and geological wonders, with the Badwater Ultramarathon challenging athletes in its extreme environment.

Badwater 135

Badwater is host to the starting line for the Badwater 135, an ultra-marathon for the ultra-crazy. The marathon starts at Badwater and runners, run, jog, and walk over one hundred and thirty miles to the Mount Whitney Portal Campground. Over the course of about two days, the runners gain over 14,600 feet in total elevation and this is done in the heat of midsummer just to make it interesting.

Summary

NameBadwater Basin
LocationDeath Valley National Park, California
Latitude, Longitude36.250278, -116.825833
Elevation-282 feet
OtherRound Trip Length: 1 mile (1.6km) to edge of salt flat
Round Trip Time: 40 minutes
Dificulty: Easy 
Elevation Gain: Flat
Trail Type: Boardwalk then route, out and back 
Location: Badwater Road, 30 minutes (17 miles/27km) south of Furnace Creek
Parking: Paved parking lot with large spaces for RVs and buses
Closest Restroom: Vault toilet located in parking lot
Route: An ADA accessible ramp leads down to a wooden boardwalk. The walking surface is firm and wide beyond the boardwalk. 

Badwater Basin Map

References

Ivanpah California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town

Not of be confused with two others sites of the same name, Ivanpah is a ghost town and mine site located along the Eastern edge of San Bernardino County, California. Rich Silver deposits found on the lower slopes of Clark Mountain lead to the founding on the town in 1869.

Ivanpah - Bidwell Mill
Ivanpah – Bidwell Mill

The Piute Company of California and Nevada was funding the prospecting for Copper in the area when the rich silver ore is discovered. The company quickly laid out a townsite near “Willow Springs” and named the site “Ivanpah” which is the a Native American word for “Clear Water.”

By 1871, Ivanpah is a well know and flourishing trading post. The town itself is host to fifteen well built adobe buildings which include a hotel, two stores, several small houses and the head quarters for the Piute Company of California and Nevada. In 1875 a 5-stamp mill in constructed by the McFarlane brothers. The Lizzie Bullock mine receives a larger 10-stamp mill built by JA Bidwell. A Post Office is founded in 1878 and the following year the foot print of buildings includes o saloons, two stores, two blacksmith shops, two shoemakers’ shops, two hotels, two hay yards, a butcher shop, and several “neat and comfortable” houses.

Ivanpah was host to several mines in the nearby Mineral hills including Hite & Chatfield (renamed to Lizzie Bullock), the monitor and the Beatrice which is owned by Andrew, John, Tom and William McFarland.

The founding of Providence and Calico pulled interest away from Ivanpah, and the ore loosing its quality and value doomed the town to history.

Ivanpah Town Map

Town Summary

NameIvanpah
Also Known AsIvanpah I
LocationSan Bernardino, California
Latitude, Longitude35.545, -115.535278
Elevation4,880 Feet
Active1869 – 1898
Population100 – 300
Post Office1878 – 1899
News PaperGreen-Eyed Monster 1880

References

Calico California – San Bernardino Count Ghost Town

Calico California is a ghost town located just outside of Barstow in Mojave desert of San Bernardino, California. The town began its like in 1881 when four miners from Grapevine Station (present day Barstow) began prospecting the “Calico Colored” mountains to the north east. The prospectors soon found the Silver King Mine, which was the largest producer of Silver in California in the 1880’s.

Calico California
Calico California

The prospectors were grubstaked by John C. King for whom the the Silver King Mine was named. John King also served as the San Bernardino County Sherriff from 1879 to 1882.  The post office is added to the town in 1882 along with the publishing on the newspaper the Calico Print which is published weekly. A typical assortment of business are started to support the mining efforts including three hotels, bars, brothels, boarding hoses, restaurants and a Wells Fargo office.

During the heyday, Calico boasted 500 mines, 3,500 townspeople, two constables, a deputy sheriff, two attorneys, two doctors and a boot hill cemetery. In 1890, the Silver Purchase Act drove down the price of silver and the decrease in profits made the town no longer economically viable. Future attempts at a rebirth and revival failed.

Miner and workmen crews at the Silver King Mine — in the Calico mining district, Mojave Desert, southern California.
Miner and workmen crews at the Silver King Mine — in the Calico mining district, Mojave Desert, southern California.

The town was purchase from Zenda Mining Company in 1951 by Walter Knot. It so happened, that Walter Knott was the nephew of John C. King and the founder of Knott’s Berry Farm. Mr. Knott invested over $700,000 restoring Calico in an attempt the create a road side attraction. Some of the original buildings are removed and replaced with facades similar in construction to a Hollywood set. Despite this fact, Calico played an important role and holds a special place in California history.

Calico Trail Map

Town Summary

NameCalico, California
LocationSan Bernardino County, California
Latitude, Longitude34.948889, -116.864167
GNIS1660414
Elevation2,285 feet
Population3,500
Post Office1882 – 1898
NewspaperCalico Print

References