Valley of the Gods

Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

Geological Report on Formation

The striking landscape of Valley of the Gods is the result of sedimentary deposition, tectonic uplift, and prolonged differential erosion over hundreds of millions of years. The primary rock unit is the Cedar Mesa Sandstone, part of the Permian-age Cutler Group (approximately 250–270 million years old). This formation reaches thicknesses of up to 1,200 feet and was deposited in a coastal environment near the shores of an ancient shallow sea that once covered much of the region during the Permian Period.

  • Depositional environment: The Cedar Mesa Sandstone originated as huge sand dunes and beach deposits along a fluctuating shoreline. It consists of cross-bedded sandstone cemented by calcium carbonate, with interspersed lenses of red siltstone. Underlying it is the older Halgaito Shale (also Permian), which formed in coastal deltas and shallow marine settings. These layers represent a transition from marine to more terrestrial conditions in western Pangea.
  • Coloration: After the ancient sea retreated, iron minerals within the sediments oxidized (reacted with oxygen), producing the characteristic rich red, orange, and purple hues visible today. Horizontal striations in the rock record millions of years of layered deposition.
  • Erosional sculpting: The Colorado Plateau’s gradual uplift (beginning tens of millions of years ago) exposed these rocks to the forces of wind, water, and ice. Differential erosion is key: the softer Halgaito Shale erodes more quickly than the resistant Cedar Mesa Sandstone above it, causing undercutting and cliff retreat. This process isolates massive buttes, spires, and pinnacles, creating the “sentinels” and mushroom-like forms seen throughout the valley. Over eons, these same forces have carved the 17-mile valley floor and surrounding features.

The valley’s geology also preserves Late Paleozoic fossils (vertebrates, plants, and invertebrates) in the Halgaito Shale and related units, offering a window into ancient coastal plain and riparian environments.

In essence, Valley of the Gods is a textbook example of Colorado Plateau geology: ancient Permian coastal sediments uplifted and exquisitely sculpted by arid-climate erosion into one of the American Southwest’s most iconic badlands.

Human History and Cultural Significance

While the rocks themselves predate humanity by hundreds of millions of years, the valley holds deep cultural meaning for Native American tribes and has seen limited Euro-American activity.

  • Indigenous connections: The Valley of the Gods is sacred to the Navajo (Diné) people. According to Navajo tradition, the towering monoliths are ancient Navajo warriors frozen in stone and time—spirits that reside in these places of power and can be appealed to for protection and strength (especially for young servicemen). The broader Bears Ears region, which once included the valley, contains over 100,000 cultural sites significant to multiple tribes, including the Navajo, Ute, and others. It features prominently in creation mythologies and is sometimes described as a “Garden of Eden” for these peoples. The area also preserves Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) artifacts, rock art, and ruins in the surrounding Cedar Mesa landscape.
  • Euro-American exploration and naming: The valley remained largely undeveloped and unnamed until the mid-20th century. In the 1940s, prospector Albert Christensen gave it its evocative name, comparing the dramatic sandstone formations to the gods of mythology. Early 20th-century ranchers and prospectors may have passed through the area, but it never supported major settlement.
  • Filming and recreation: Its classic “western” look made it a popular backdrop for commercials, movies, and promotions (including Marlboro ads and even video game backgrounds). The 17-mile loop road, accessible from U.S. Highway 163 or Utah State Route 261 (near the dramatic Moki Dugway switchbacks), has long drawn photographers, hikers, and off-road enthusiasts.
  • Modern protection and controversies: In 2008, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) designated Valley of the Gods an Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC) to protect its scenic values. In 2016, President Obama included it in the 1.35-million-acre Bears Ears National Monument, citing its cultural, paleontological, and natural importance. In 2017, President Trump reduced the monument by about 85%, removing the Valley of the Gods (and other areas) from monument status; it reverted to ACEC protection under BLM management. The valley remains open to the public with no entrance fees, though it prohibits campfires and limits camping to previously disturbed sites. It continues to face debates over balancing recreation, grazing, and resource protection.

Today, Valley of the Gods stands as a pristine, uncrowded gem of the Colorado Plateau—offering solitude, stunning geology, and a living connection to Native American heritage. Its formations continue to erode slowly, ensuring that future generations will witness an ever-changing landscape shaped by the same forces that created it over 250 million years ago. For visitors, a drive or hike through the valley provides both geological wonder and cultural reverence in one of Utah’s most underrated desert treasures.

Utah Trip Report, Fall 2003

Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

This year’s trip was very unique, and will be hard to document in way that is interesting Utah trip. My immediate reaction is to throw up a ton of images and just write “look where I went”.

This years adventure started during the California Wildfires. Friends and family homes located in the San Bernardino Mountains were danger as we left and not all the news we had was good. My brother and I piled into his Four Runner under the smoke filled dawn and made the eight-hour drive to Zion National Park in Utah.

Since we had just over a days wait for our companions for the trip. My brother and I did several hikes out and around the main canyon in Zion while we waited for my photography partner and good friend John Farkas and his wife Abby to arrive.

A quick hike up to the Emerald Pools left us with a great view, but view great photographic opportunities. The quick moving white clouds above gave us great-diffused light, but this light would quickly vanish and made composing and hit and miss venture. That evening, we dropped in on Michael Fatali, and were fortunate enough to get a tour of his dark room and a little map review as well. Thanks Michael!

After losing a day to travel, we awoke near Dance Hall Rock in the Escalante Wilderness. After a morning breakfast we loaded up our backpacks and head out across the sand trail towards “Crack in the Wall”. “Crack in the Wall” is a “Class 2” rock scamper. Since we didn’t know that this really was, we didn’t worry too much as we hiked closer towards the canyon wall. We hiked over prehistoric petrified dunes, dried water pools, and cow trails as we edged ever closer towards the infamous “Crack in the Wall”.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

“Crack in the Wall” is perhaps the most descriptive named structure that I have run across to date. A narrow crack in the towering canyon walls was formed by a large section of stone cleaving away from wall. Perhaps one of the more interesting hiking trails I have seen, we removed our heavy frame backpacks, broke out our rope, and quickly lowered the packs past the narrowest section of the trail. Another twenty minutes of hiking found us near the Escalante River. Light danced on the canyon walls, and reflections glowed in the shallow creek as we explored the canyons looking for the light.

Hiking towards crack in the wall.
Hiking towards crack in the wall.

After a three-hour hike out of the canyons of the Escalante River, we planned our next days excursion. The decided to head east down the John Burr trail and towards Capital Reef National Park. The Burr Trail is a nice paved windy road that is perhaps one of the most scenic roads I have traveled. We stopped many times on our travels this find day, as the diffused light was booming. Water carved towers of rock illuminated by the soft Utah sun passed by as we drove deeper and deeper into Capital Reef.

Another day of driving took us back towards Los Angeles. We were sad to see our expedition coming to a close, but time was against us. However, we still found time to visit a slot canyon just a few miles away from our route. We certainly could not pass this opportunity

Round Valley Draw slot canyon opens up in a streambed after a very short hike from the trailhead. We walked down the side of the canyon to survey the canyon before lowering ourselves deep into the heart of the Earth. I have stated it previously, but walking a slot canyon is a magical experience. Time, Water, and Sand carve these beautiful canyons for us to visit, and you just cannot appreciate this place until you have been there.

Another wonderful Utah trip.