Widtsoe (pronounced /ˈwɪtsoʊ/) is a ghost town in Garfield County, southern Utah, located in Johns Valley along the East Fork of the Sevier River at the mouth of Sweetwater Creek. It sits at an elevation of about 7,605 feet (2,318 m), roughly 15–16 miles northeast of Bryce Canyon National Park. The town existed primarily from about 1908 to 1936 (with earlier seasonal use of the valley) and stands as a classic example of an ambitious early-20th-century dry-farming settlement that flourished briefly before collapsing under environmental and economic pressures during the drought years and the Great Depression.
Early Settlement and Ranching Era (1870s–early 1900s)
Johns Valley was used mainly as seasonal open range for cattle by local ranchers in the late 19th century. Permanent settlement began around 1876, when Isaac Riddle and others (including a wife of John D. Lee) established a presence. Riddle’s ranch became a key regrouping point for the San Juan (Hole-in-the-Rock) Expedition in 1879. James Houston, a Mormon stake president from Panguitch, ran cattle in the area as early as 1872. Through the end of the century, the high, cold valley supported few permanent residents; it remained primarily stock country.
Founding and Rapid Growth (1902–1920)
In the early 1900s, Jedediah Adair purchased land and successfully grew oats, wheat, and barley using dry-farming techniques suited to the arid high country. His results drew other settlers. By 1908 the community was known as Adairville. In 1910, Adair’s wife Julia Ann donated 40 acres for an official townsite, laid out in the typical Mormon “Zion” pattern: a central park and church/school meetinghouse surrounded by one-acre family lots, with streets 5 rods wide and blocks 20 rods square. Additional land was later donated (including 160 acres in 1914 by the Mangums and Quince K. Kimball).
The settlement went through several name changes reflecting prominent local Latter-day Saint leaders:
- Briefly Houston (after John/James Houston, Panguitch stake president).
- Winder (after John R. Winder of the LDS First Presidency) when a post office was granted in 1912.
- In 1917 the post office required another change because of duplicate “Winder” names in Utah; the community chose Widtsoe in honor of John A. Widtsoe (1872–1952), then president of the University of Utah, an agricultural scientist, dry-farming expert, and later LDS apostle. His work on dry farming and irrigation had directly aided local farmers.
Nearby settlements (including Henderson a few miles north) gradually consolidated into Widtsoe. Infrastructure developed quickly: sawmills supplied lumber; a combination church and school (later a three-room schoolhouse); two hotels; four stores; a confectionery; a post office; and, by 1915, piped running water from a local spring. In 1919 the U.S. Forest Service moved its district office (and the area’s first telephone) from Panguitch to Widtsoe. There was serious discussion of relocating the Garfield County seat there.
Population estimates vary. Some accounts place the peak at around 1,100 in 1920 (when the town was described as one of the principal communities in the county and its grain production reportedly exceeded that of the rest of Garfield County combined). The 1920 census figure cited in detailed local research is closer to 365. Regardless of the exact number, the town was prosperous enough that residents enlarged nearby Pine Lake and built an embankment dam in anticipation of further growth.
Decline (1920–1935)
A severe drought began in the summer of 1920, threatening crops. Rain arrived late that season and produced a decent grain harvest, but dry conditions continued. The high elevation and cold limited vegetable production; soil quality was marginal; floods and erosion compounded problems. An apparent multi-year cycle of drought versus better water years worked against the settlers. By the mid-1920s the only consistently successful crop was a high-altitude variety of iceberg lettuce.
In 1923–1924, California developer and Imperial Valley irrigation pioneer W.F. Holt invested heavily (reports of nearly $300,000) at the urging of Utah state senator Quince Kimball. Holt bought the Widtsoe Hotel, built more than ten homes, founded the nearby settlement of Osiris, constructed irrigation works (storage pond and flume bringing water about 7 miles from Pine Lake), installed telephone lines, established a creamery, and promoted high-altitude lettuce seed. The efforts failed against persistent drought, erosion, rodents, and climate extremes. The Forest Service office left in 1925. Population fell to 210 by 1930 and to only 17 families (or about 40 families in some accounts) by 1934–1935. The area was described as among the most destitute in Utah during the early Depression years.
Federal Resettlement and Abandonment (1935–1938)
In spring 1934 residents petitioned for federal help. Officials of the Resettlement Administration (a New Deal agency) concluded the land was sub-marginal and could no longer support agriculture. On February 8, 1935, residents voted to accept resettlement assistance. The government purchased roughly 30,000 acres for about $81,300, resettled 29 families to more productive land elsewhere in Utah, and used the Widtsoe Project as a model for similar programs in other western states. Administrative costs exceeded the purchase price, and the process was slow.
In 1936 the Resettlement Administration bought out remaining landowners. Most buildings were demolished; more than 26,000 acres were placed under the Taylor Grazing Act for public grazing. Photographer Dorothea Lange documented the nearly empty town for the agency in April 1936, producing well-known images of the post office and postmistress, the Emery Valley Mercantile Co. grocery store, approaching views of the settlement, and families preparing to leave. The last federally assisted families departed by March 1938. The name was removed from highway signs and maps.
Legacy and Present Condition
A few structures survived: remnants of a schoolhouse (sometimes described as the original one-room building), the Woodard house (with an assay-office extension), a barn, a few private residences or summer cabins, sheds, and root cellars. Foundations, debris, and a weathered stop sign have also been noted. Ownership is mixed (private, State of Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, and federal). An active pioneer cemetery remains nearby and continues to see occasional burials. Visitors are cautioned not to remove artifacts, as both federal and state laws protect the site.
Widtsoe illustrates the limits of dry-farming optimism in Utah’s high valleys, the influence of LDS agricultural experts such as John A. Widtsoe, the boom-and-bust pattern of early-20th-century rural settlement, and the New Deal’s role in managing environmental failure. Annual gatherings of former residents and descendants have helped preserve memory of the community long after the physical town disappeared. Today the quiet site in Johns Valley serves as a tangible reminder of the challenges of making a living on the Colorado Plateau’s arid highlands.