Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon one of two slot canyons located off the highway 98 just outside of Page, Arizona near the Utah border.

Entering Lower Antelope Canyon
Entering Lower Antelope Canyon

Slot Canyons are formed in usually arid regions, where a little bit of rain falls, and fulls the dry rivers of the desert southwest.  The water can flash flood, which picks up speed and debris and scours the landscape.  Overtime, the water forces itself into cracks in the rock and widens the deepens the crack into a deep narrow canyon.   Lower Antelope is a commonly overlooked when compared the Upper Antelope Canyon, although does seem to be gaining in popularity.

Hasdestwazi, or “spiral rock arches ” as it is known to the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation, Lower Antelope slowly exposes itself to you as a small crack in the rock which grows slightly in width, and dramatically  in depth as you climb down into the slot canyon.

Unlike Upper Antelope Canyon which is an easy walk, Lower Antelope Canyon is a steep and deep trail as the passage plunges deeper into the rock.  The Navajo Nation is kind enough to maintain metal stairs to aid the trek, however on my last visit the stars where covered in mud, silt and debris from a recent storm which further sculpts the rock.   Upper Antelope pulls you eyes up into the colorful light above, however there is no real sense of depth.  Lower Antelope Canyon constantly reminds you how deep you really are beneath the surface.

The stairs inside of lower Antelope Canyon show signs of a recent flood.
The stairs inside of lower Antelope Canyon show signs of a recent flood.

Just like Upper Antelope Canyon, a narrow opening at the top of the canyon only allows a little light the enter the canyon.  This light bounces off the canyon walls, and throughout the day, a light show of glowing rock, shadows and textured water sculpted rock offer a wonderful visuals to the visitors.

The sculpted rock and light offer beauty, texture and scenic photographic opportunities, however this beauty hides a danger.  An August 12, 1997 a group of eleven tourists where killed inside the canyon when a flash flood filled the canyon in seconds.  A sole tour guide survived the tragedy.

As I follow the canyon down towards Lake Powell in the distance, I would constantly find my self touching the smooth canyon rock walls, all the while knowing that a summer monsoon miles aware could end my time on this planet.  However, although always a bit uneasy, it is an amazing place and well worth the trip and the remote risk.

Valley of the Gods

Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

Geological Report on Formation

The striking landscape of Valley of the Gods is the result of sedimentary deposition, tectonic uplift, and prolonged differential erosion over hundreds of millions of years. The primary rock unit is the Cedar Mesa Sandstone, part of the Permian-age Cutler Group (approximately 250–270 million years old). This formation reaches thicknesses of up to 1,200 feet and was deposited in a coastal environment near the shores of an ancient shallow sea that once covered much of the region during the Permian Period.

  • Depositional environment: The Cedar Mesa Sandstone originated as huge sand dunes and beach deposits along a fluctuating shoreline. It consists of cross-bedded sandstone cemented by calcium carbonate, with interspersed lenses of red siltstone. Underlying it is the older Halgaito Shale (also Permian), which formed in coastal deltas and shallow marine settings. These layers represent a transition from marine to more terrestrial conditions in western Pangea.
  • Coloration: After the ancient sea retreated, iron minerals within the sediments oxidized (reacted with oxygen), producing the characteristic rich red, orange, and purple hues visible today. Horizontal striations in the rock record millions of years of layered deposition.
  • Erosional sculpting: The Colorado Plateau’s gradual uplift (beginning tens of millions of years ago) exposed these rocks to the forces of wind, water, and ice. Differential erosion is key: the softer Halgaito Shale erodes more quickly than the resistant Cedar Mesa Sandstone above it, causing undercutting and cliff retreat. This process isolates massive buttes, spires, and pinnacles, creating the “sentinels” and mushroom-like forms seen throughout the valley. Over eons, these same forces have carved the 17-mile valley floor and surrounding features.

The valley’s geology also preserves Late Paleozoic fossils (vertebrates, plants, and invertebrates) in the Halgaito Shale and related units, offering a window into ancient coastal plain and riparian environments.

In essence, Valley of the Gods is a textbook example of Colorado Plateau geology: ancient Permian coastal sediments uplifted and exquisitely sculpted by arid-climate erosion into one of the American Southwest’s most iconic badlands.

Human History and Cultural Significance

While the rocks themselves predate humanity by hundreds of millions of years, the valley holds deep cultural meaning for Native American tribes and has seen limited Euro-American activity.

  • Indigenous connections: The Valley of the Gods is sacred to the Navajo (Diné) people. According to Navajo tradition, the towering monoliths are ancient Navajo warriors frozen in stone and time—spirits that reside in these places of power and can be appealed to for protection and strength (especially for young servicemen). The broader Bears Ears region, which once included the valley, contains over 100,000 cultural sites significant to multiple tribes, including the Navajo, Ute, and others. It features prominently in creation mythologies and is sometimes described as a “Garden of Eden” for these peoples. The area also preserves Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) artifacts, rock art, and ruins in the surrounding Cedar Mesa landscape.
  • Euro-American exploration and naming: The valley remained largely undeveloped and unnamed until the mid-20th century. In the 1940s, prospector Albert Christensen gave it its evocative name, comparing the dramatic sandstone formations to the gods of mythology. Early 20th-century ranchers and prospectors may have passed through the area, but it never supported major settlement.
  • Filming and recreation: Its classic “western” look made it a popular backdrop for commercials, movies, and promotions (including Marlboro ads and even video game backgrounds). The 17-mile loop road, accessible from U.S. Highway 163 or Utah State Route 261 (near the dramatic Moki Dugway switchbacks), has long drawn photographers, hikers, and off-road enthusiasts.
  • Modern protection and controversies: In 2008, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) designated Valley of the Gods an Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC) to protect its scenic values. In 2016, President Obama included it in the 1.35-million-acre Bears Ears National Monument, citing its cultural, paleontological, and natural importance. In 2017, President Trump reduced the monument by about 85%, removing the Valley of the Gods (and other areas) from monument status; it reverted to ACEC protection under BLM management. The valley remains open to the public with no entrance fees, though it prohibits campfires and limits camping to previously disturbed sites. It continues to face debates over balancing recreation, grazing, and resource protection.

Today, Valley of the Gods stands as a pristine, uncrowded gem of the Colorado Plateau—offering solitude, stunning geology, and a living connection to Native American heritage. Its formations continue to erode slowly, ensuring that future generations will witness an ever-changing landscape shaped by the same forces that created it over 250 million years ago. For visitors, a drive or hike through the valley provides both geological wonder and cultural reverence in one of Utah’s most underrated desert treasures.

Warm Springs Road

A short side trip from the Saline Valley Road to the Saline Valley Warm Springs in Death Valley National Park, California. The road is used to access the Warm Springs Hot Springs of the Saline Valley. The region and its hot springs became very popular in the 1960’s

Looking down at the Lippencott Mine Road from the Lippencott Mine, with Warm Springs Road, Saline Valley in the distance.
Looking down at the Lippencott Mine Road from the Lippencott Mine, with Saline Valley in the distance.

The hot springs were improved before the National Park was formed in 1994. As such; showers, bathtubs concrete pools and three bathrooms. these bathrooms are replaced by the Park Service. Palm trees were planted to create am oasis. Additionally, there is a small airport known as the “Chicken Strip”, which is a 1400 foot dirt runway cleared near the hot springs. The “Chicken Strip” landing strip is about a 10 minute walk from the oasis.

There are three distinct springs and camping locations. The warm springs oasis existed as its own four some 40 years prior to the national park service taking over. The location became quite popular and nudity was common. There was quite a bit of controversy when the national park service took over due to the decades long existence of the improvements conflicting with the governments tendency to (over)regulate.

NPS Photo - Mature, non-native palm trees, such as these near the Volcano Pool, will stay in place until they die of natural causes.
NPS Photo – Mature, non-native palm trees, such as these near the Volcano Pool, will stay in place until they die of natural causes.

A “clothing optional” policy is still permitted at the springs, but nudity is frowned upon elsewhere at the site.

The road is maintained for the most part and should be accessible to most 2WD vehicles.

Notoriety

It is said that Charles Manson visited the Warm Springs looking for entrance to the bottomless pit. Manson believed the bottomless pit was an entrance to an underground world, which would protect him from the race war he tried to start as part of his plan to start “Helter Skelter.”

Trail Summary

NameWarm Springs Road
LocationSaline Valley, Death Valley National Park, California
Length7.5 Miles
DifficultyEasy

Warm Springs Road Trail Map

References