Category: Trails

Broken Hills Nevada – Mineral County Ghost Town

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Broken Hills Nevada, c 1915. Ore sacks being loaded for shipment to the railroad at Fallon.
Broken Hills Nevada, c 1915. Ore sacks being loaded for shipment to the railroad at Fallon.

Broken Hills, Nevada is more a descriptive term than the name of a town.  Broken Hills began life in 1913 when two Englishmen, Joseph Arthur and James Stratford prospected the site and gold was found in the area.  After five years of effort, the founders of Broken Hills pulled only $68,000 of gold.  The two men sold their claim to George Graham Rice.

George Graham Rice
George Graham Rice

Born Jacob Herzig, George Graham Rice appears to have been a ruthless self promoter with a get rick quick financial strategy and a criminal history for forging checks.  The self serving Mr. Rice promoted the Arthur and Stratford mine, and sold shares of the property.  Mr. Rice is said to have invested $75,000 of stockholder money into the mine and produced revenues of only $7,000.

There was a stockholder investigation, however nothing was pursued as George Graham Rice was now a resident in state prison for mail fraud. George Graham Rice was also a player in Rawhide, Goldfield, Bullfrog and Rhyolite Nevada.

Today, Broken Hills is empty.  The buildings and people are all gone with the lone exception of a mine head frame. Broken Hills Nevada is located in Lincoln County, Nevada

Broken Hills Trail Map

Kokoweef Mine

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The Kokoweef Mine and in fact all of the trails and mines located in the Ivanpah / Mountain Pass area represent exactly why I started Destination4x4.  My wife and I routinely drive between our home in Las Vegas, NV and Los Angeles, CA to visit family and friends.  One trip we decided to jump off the 15 and just investigate the Mountain Area off of Bailey Road.  After a few nice discoveries, we continued our drive home and that night I opened up Google Earth and started investigating the area.

Kokoweef Mine from below - 2015
Kokoweef Mine from below – 2015

One of my discoveries was Kokoweef.  Immediately upon exiting the I-15 at Baily road was a sign for Kokoweef.  Little did I realize that I had just walked into a legend of the “Kokoweef River of Gold”.  Obviously, I don’t think I have discovered anything, but rather learned more of the desert history which surrounds us all and seldom seen or learned about.

My nephew and son searching for the "River of Gold" on Kokoweef peak.
My nephew and son searching for the “River of Gold” on Kokoweef peak.

According to Legend, three Piute Indians discovered cave system which became known as the Crystal Cave.  The cave system was reported to be thousands of feet deep, and contained an underground river 300 feet across which was rich with placer gold.  The location remained a secret for many years, until the 1930’s when  Earl F. Dorr learned of the cave system from a Indian ranch hand who worked on his fathers ranch.  According to the ranch hand, three brothers Oliver, Buck and George Peysert worked / mined the cave system and recovered some $57,000.00 for 6 weeks of work.  During one visit George Peysert is reported to have died

These mine cart rails are a little small to pull the amount of gold claimed to be here.
These mine cart rails are a little small to pull the amount of gold claimed to be here.

Armed with this little bit of knowledge, Mr. Door reportedly investigated the site with two other men.  Reportedly, we found the underground river which “Rises and Falls with Tidal Regularity”, along with fantastic geologic formations.  To protect his new find, Mr. Dorr blasted the tunnel closed.  On December 10, 1934 Mr Door swore and affidavit to which, he stated that he prospect the area for several days and with 10 lbs of of placer sand from the banks of the underground river was assayed a$2,144.47 per yard and $20 per once of gold.

Mr. Dorr died in 1957 without revealing the location of the cavern entrance to the underground river of gold.   From the point of his affidavit in 1934, the site has been submit to multiple mining claims, rumor, story and lawsuits.  It is of some note that Earl Dorr worked for another 23 years with the knowledge of a vaste cache of placer gold yet did not seem to act on this information.

The latest lawsuit in the area was closed in 2012, but to my knowledge no vast river of gold at the bottom of a 3000 foot canyon has yet to be rediscovered in the Mojave.

Currently, the two roads to the mine are closed on both sides, so you have to walk up to the mine sight.  The terrain is moderately steep, however erosion channels and loose rock make to hike more difficult but well worth the effort.  Access from the southern access road on considerabley shorter and not as steep.  Once at the top, you are great of the mine portal with is mostly closed and the mine cart rail.

Kokoweef Trail Map

Resources

Hole in the Rock

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Recognized on the National Register of Historic Places, the Hole in the Rock trail is an old Mormon trail in Utah that was used to establish colonies on the east side of the Colorado River in 1879. The Hole in the Rock from which the trail is named, is a narrow canyon from the rim of the canyon down into the Colorado River Valley. This canyon provided access to the Colorado River and the much needed water require to survive in these remote locations. Months were spent widening the narrow canyon to allow “safe” passage of all the wagons and cattle.

Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

The original trail was bisected when the Glen Canyon damn bottled the Colorado River and started to fill up Lake Powell in 1966. However, thE road continues to exist and allows access to the Escalante Canyon system, along with access to the Devils Garden, numerous slot canyons and lots of back country hiking and camping opportunities.

Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah
Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah

The road passes between the Kaiparowits Plateau and the Escalante River. This area is a labyrinth of roads and trails.  The trail leaves the small town of Escalante and travels 44 miles south along a sandy road.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

Do not underestimate how cool this area is to visit. The rock formations, remote locations and sunsets are beyond comprehension. One can get the feeling of isolation on just a short visit.

Escalante Canyon, Utah
Escalante Canyon, Utah

Hole in the Rock Trail Map

Cathedral Valley

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Located in Capital Reef National Park, the Cathedral Valley District of Capitol Reef National Park is open all year and the perfect spot for the back county explorer seeking to get away from it all.

Temple of the Sun, located on Cathedral Valley Trail in Capital Reef National Park, Utah - Photo by James L Rathbun
Temple of the Sun, located on Cathedral Valley Trail in Capital Reef National Park, Utah – Photo by James L Rathbun

Vehicles with high ground clearance are recommended and should have no issues navigating the sandy roads. Road conditions can vary greatly depending on recent weather conditions with spring and summer rains leaving the route muddy and impassable.  The advantage of this location is the back country travel is light, so for the person seeking seclusion, this is the secluded area in a remote location.

The 60 miles loop trail leaves highway 24 at the River Ford which is about 12 miles easy of the visitor center.  The route follows Hartnet Road to the Cathedral Road ( Caineville Wash Road) and returns to Highway 24 near Caineville.  The river crossing is passable most of the time, however care should be taken during the rainy months.

During my visit in 2004, we just finished Hole in the Rock Road, and headed east out of Escalante, Utah.  We then took the Burr Trail to Notom Road which delivered us to Capital Reef.  That afternoon we chased the light up Cathedral Valley Road and stopped at Temple of the Sun for some photographic opportunities.  We stayed beyond sun down hoping for some amazing light which did not come that evening and drove trail out in the dark.  I was disappointed for the lack of light during the golden hour, but the location is yet another place that I must return just due to the amazing Utah landscapes.

Cathedral Valley Trail Map

Shafer Trail

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The Shafer Trail, located in the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park near Moab, Utah, is a renowned backcountry road celebrated for its dramatic scenery and challenging terrain. Spanning approximately 19 miles, the trail descends 1,500 feet through a massive sandstone cliff via a series of tight switchbacks, connecting the mesa top to the canyon floor and linking with the White Rim Road and Potash Road. Its history reflects a rich tapestry of human activity, evolving from ancient pathways to a modern recreational route.

Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun
Mesa Light taken from the White Rim Trail and Lathrop Canyon Road. Photograph by James L Rathbun

Early Use by Native Americans

Long before modern roads, the Shafer Trail began as a route used by Native Americans to access resources on the mesa top and travel to the Colorado River below. These early inhabitants of the region navigated the rugged terrain to gather materials and move between seasonal locations, establishing a path that would later be adapted for other purposes. The trail’s origins as a Native American route highlight its significance as a corridor through the challenging canyon landscape.

Ranching Era and the Shafer Family

In the early 20th century, the trail was adapted by Mormon pioneer settlers, particularly the Shafer family, for whom it is named. Starting in 1916, John “Sog” Shafer used the trail to move cattle between summer pastures on the mesa top and winter grazing grounds on the White Rim sandstone below. Shafer and other ranchers improved the trail, widening and stabilizing it to make it safer for livestock, though it remained narrow and perilous, with animals occasionally slipping to their deaths. These improvements laid the groundwork for later developments, and many trails in the Island in the Sky district bear the names of families who worked them.

Uranium Boom and Road Expansion

The 1950s marked a significant transformation for the Shafer Trail during the uranium boom in the American Southwest. The Atomic Energy Commission widened and extended the trail to accommodate trucks transporting uranium-bearing ore from mines in the Triassic Chinle Formation to processing facilities in Moab. This period saw many backcountry roads in the Moab area, including the Shafer Trail, upgraded to support the mining industry, leaving visible scars across the desert landscape. The trail’s role in uranium transport underscores its importance to the region’s industrial history.

Transition to Recreation

With the establishment of Canyonlands National Park in 1964, the Shafer Trail’s function shifted from ranching and mining to recreation. Ranchers were granted a ten-year extension to continue operations, but by the mid-1970s, the trail was primarily used by visitors seeking adventure. The National Park Service improved the road to make it safer for recreational use, though it remains unpaved and challenging, requiring high-clearance 4WD vehicles with low-range gear (4LO). Today, the trail attracts hundreds of visitors annually for its thrilling switchbacks and breathtaking views of Canyonlands’ sculpted pinnacles, buttes, and the Colorado River.

Modern-Day Significance

The Shafer Trail is now an iconic backcountry drive, celebrated for its scenic beauty and historical significance. It offers access to notable sites like the Shafer Canyon Overlook, where visitors can view the trail’s switchbacks and the surrounding canyon landscape, and Thelma and Louise Point, famous for its appearance in the 1991 film’s final scene. The trail also connects to other recreational routes like the White Rim Road and is popular among hikers, mountain bikers, and photographers for its wildflowers, petroglyphs, and dinosaur tracks. Its challenging conditions, including steep drops and sharp rocks, require careful preparation, and it can become impassable during wet or snowy weather.

Conclusion

From a Native American pathway to a cattle trail, a uranium transport route, and now a premier recreational destination, the Shafer Trail encapsulates the evolving human relationship with Canyonlands’ rugged landscape. Named after the Shafer family and shaped by centuries of use, it remains a testament to the region’s cultural, industrial, and natural history, offering visitors an unforgettable journey through one of America’s most striking national parks.

Shafer Trail map